Read travel/food writer Freda Moon’s sensuous tribute to the sublime red, white and green Chiles en Nogada and you will understand the heart and soul of a nation. Food is a commentary about culture and in this case, gender.
Freda describes the role of the descendants of indigenous noble women who converted to Christianity, took to the life of the convent, and created the perfect blend of indigenous and native ingredients to give birth to Chiles en Nogada — a fitting tribute to the birth of a nation. The seasonal dish, served in August and September, is the symbol of Mexico and her revolutionary cry of freedom. It is the El Grito of pure Mexican soul food.
Chiles en Nogada was born and bred in Puebla, Mexico where it has many variations. It is replicated in every city and town throughout the country. One of my favorite restaurants in Puebla for everything autor (authentic) is El Mural de los Poblanos where Chef Lisette Galicia creates magic in the kitchen. Her chiles en nogada, in my opinion, are near perfection.
Freda Moon has promised a recipe that she will convert from Spanish to English. As soon as I hear word of it, you’ll see it here! Buen provecho!
You also might want to check out Jim Johnson’s recommendations on his blog: Mexico City: An Opinionated Guide for restaurants that prepare excellent Chiles en Nogada.
In Oaxaca, the restaurante La Casa del Tio Guero serves a good chiles en nogada. The owner/chef is from Puebla.
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