Soft Landing Oaxaca, and Teotitlan del Valle

It’s a four-and-a-half hour bus ride from Puebla CAPU to Oaxaca ADO bus station. Taxi from Puebla historic center to CAPU is 80 pesos. Bus ticket is about 450 pesos on ADO GL deluxe service. Easy. Scenic. The road dips and rises through mountains studded with mature saguaro and nopal cactus, flowing river beds (it’s the rainy season) and dramatic gorges. When going south, choose a seat on the right side of the bus.

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Prep kitchen — al fresco — at La Biznaga Restaurant

A good time to write, read, lean back and enjoy the ride. I arrived in Oaxaca on Sunday night, just in time to skip the last Guelaguetza performances on Monday but not the crowds strolling the Andador Macedonio Alcala. Or, the sounds of the festivities echoing from the Cerro del Fortin pinnacle starting at 10 a.m.

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People asked me, are you going to Guelaguetza? Did you go to Guelaguetza? I told them no. I went for the last two years, had a great time, took lots of photos and decided I didn’t need to repeat the experience for a while.

Sunday night, I discovered La Salvadora, a patio bar on Guerrero that serves great artesenal Mexican beer, sandwiches, salads, and usually has live music. A great way to land. Thanks, Hayley.

On Monday I walked over 12,000 steps Oaxaca is one of the best walking cities in Mexico with the Andador limited only to pedestrian traffic.

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Carol and David invited me to lunch at their departamento under the shadow of Basilica de Soledad on the other side of town, so I walked there, passing colonial adobe buildings in need of renovation.

Before that, I walked to ceramic Galeria Tierra Quemada and recycled glass studio Xaquixe to check out mezcal cups that my sister asked me to get for her, and then I went back again as she honed the decision.

I finished off the day with a Spanish potato and egg torta (a famed tapas) with organic salad, and a glass of excellent, reasonably priced (40 pesos) red wine at Tastevins on Murguia close to Benito Juarez, with Hayley. This place is becoming a favorite, relaxed, good food, moderately priced.

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On Tuesday, I clocked a bit over 10,000 steps. Janet and I met for a great breakfast — organic blue corn memelas with poached eggs, red and green salsa — at Cabuche before she went to work. (It’s my in-the-city-neighborhood-go-to-eating-spot.)

Handmade paper box at Xaquixe

Handmade paper box at Xaquixe

Then, a return trip to Tierra Quemada (meaning burnt earth) for the final order and shipping.

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And a return to the Xaquixe shop on 5 de Mayo between Abasolo and Constitucion to oggle the handmade paper and glassware once again.

Prepping for comida corrida at La Biznaga

Prepping for comida corrida at La Biznaga

After taking care of fingers and toes from all the pavement pounding, I met Martha and Hayley at La Biznaga for a great vegetarian spinach lasagna (Tuesday is vegetarian comida corrida). The portions are so generous, there was enough for lunch today.

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My good friend and taxista Abraham picked me up late afternoon and I arrived back in Teotitlan del Valle. I don’t have internet connection where I live, so I’m now at my Teoti go-to restaurant Tierra Antigua for reliable service and an excellent horchata.

This Saturday Abraham and Rosa are getting married. It’s been in the planning for a year. I’ve known Abraham for about eight years — smart, always reliable, taught himself English, muy dulce — very sweet. He asked me to be the madrina (godmother) of the photography! It’s my gift to them, and I’m excited about participating in all the related activities and then sharing them with you. I have permission!

Soft landing!

 

12 Responses to Soft Landing Oaxaca, and Teotitlan del Valle

  1. Congratulations to Abraham! He was so wonderful to me during my visit. Have a peaceful time in your home and community,
    Claudia

  2. Thanks for the memories Norma; what a great post. My wife and I have taken the bus between Puebla and Oaxaca too. The scenery is stunning and the time goes by quickly.

    We also discovered Tierra Quemada last winter & picked up some beautiful mugs that we use daily – a great souvenir of Oaxaca.
    Enjoy your time in Oaxaca & Teotitlan.

    • Paul, thanks so much for reading and appreciating! I spent the morning hanging another sun shade on the rooftop terrace and then relaxing in the hammock. So nice to look at the mountains and just enjoy being here. Hope you both come back soon!

  3. So happy to be part of your reentry to Oaxaca. Welcome home!

  4. Hola Amiga,

    Reading your blog always makes me look forward all the more to our months in Oaxaca. Seattle is having another heat wave…We are here for a month and off to Turkey for 4 weeks, back to Seattle for 3 and then we will be in Oaxaca with you.

    UPS is picking up the I Have a Name Photographs today and overnight shipping them to the library at U. NM in Albuquerque, where they will be on display when the students return to class. Its a great venue.
    Abrazos,
    Jo Ann and Tom

  5. Wow! What great shopping tips…and the food, the restaurants, ohhh, I miss Oaxaca.
    But the tail end of your blog message today caught an edge of my heart: Abraham’s upcoming wedding and the fact that you will be the “madrina” of photography. That is so touching, so wonderfully happy. I can’t wait to see the pictures! I wish I could be at that lovely wedding.
    Best to you, my dear Norma, and keep up your great walking!

  6. Beverly in Connecticut

    just spent 30 mins checking out all the shops and restaurants you went to. great resource! couldn’t go to Guelaguetza this year! very homesick for Oaxaca. You and Chris and Shannon keep me connected
    Thank you

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