A Day with Silver Icon William Spratling and Heir Violante Ulrich in Taxco, Mexico

William Spratling died in 1967 but his legacy lives on through the efforts of Violante Ulrich and her sister Consuelo. Their father, Alberto Ulrich, was a close Spratling friend and supporter. They drove race cars together along the narrow winding roads connecting Taxco with the Pacific beach resort of Acapulco. Ulrich took over the Spratling enterprise then to keep it going and his daughters are also committed to this.

 

There are few remaining silversmiths in Taxco from that era. All the shops whose mast-head bear the names of the famous masters such as Los Castillos, Antonio Pineda and Enrique Ledesma are now mostly filled with production pieces. Very little is still made by hand. (There is one Taxco shop called Hecho a Mano that makes excellent reproductions of significant pieces.)

In production, silver fish with ebony, a favorite Spratling jewelry hardwood

I made arrangements with Violante to spend a day with her in Taxco during our recent folk art study tour. Silver is to Mexico what rebozos are, too. Part of this country’s cultural identity. So, seeing the Spratling home Las Delicias where he first lived and worked was an essential part of this experience.

Rafa melting 925 parts silver and 75 parts copper

Rafa melting 925 parts silver and 75 parts copper to make 925 jewelry

I remember visiting the Spratling silver galleries in Taxco in the early 1970’s. I was young and couldn’t afford much. Even then, Spratling was a legend. There were many beautiful pieces for sale in the showroom on the plaza. I managed to buy a small chain for $35 USD — a big sum then —  and still have it!

Sterling silver flatware with rosewood, $1,000 USD a place setting

Sterling silver flatware with rosewood, $1,000 USD a place setting

Taxco is about a two-hour drive from Tenancingo, so it made sense to me to schedule this as a day trip. When we arrived, we had breakfast at S’Caffecito prepared by Violante and her staff, got a tour of the house, galleries and and rooftop terrace overlooking the church.

 

Above left, Violante with a Marilyn Monroe chair. Right, the Spratling monkey.

1950's vintage Spratling owl pin with amethyst eyes

1950’s vintage Spratling owl pin with amethyst eyes

Then, we got in the van and drove to Taxco El Viejo on the road to Iguala, where Spratling later built his ranch. He did this for many reasons. He wanted privacy and a workshop away from the hovering eyes of other Taxco silversmiths who began to copy his work.

Spratling workshop, just as it was then

Spratling workshop, just as it was then. Antonio demonstrates.

It was amazing to be in this space where all the equipment used now was the same as it was then.

The beginning of the owl pin with the amethyst eyes.

The beginning of the owl pin with the amethyst eyes.

The jewelry molds are exactly as they were, and skilled craftsmen are creating silver flatware inlaid with rosewood, pins, necklaces, bracelets and earrings in the same gauge metal and quality that William Spratling used.

Annealing the silver owl pin that will have amethyst eyes

Annealing the silver owl pin that will have amethyst eyes

Not much has changed, thankfully, except that the next generation of Spratling silversmiths include Violante and Consuelo who have registered a new stamp with the Mexican government and also design and produce their own work.

 

We toured the workshops and met silversmiths Antonio and Rafael who demonstrated the process to make Spratling’s famous owl pin with the amethyst eyes. We saw the original molds, examples of Spratling’s original work and the pieces made today that are for sale. (Of course, there was lots to try on.)

We saw the chairs that Spratling designed for Marilyn Monroe that went undelivered because of her suicide.

 

How did they know this? Margarita Gonzales, the accountant, kept impeccable records, and when Alberto Ulrich found the stash of chairs tucked away in a closet, he knew exactly where to look to track the provenance.

Old iron nails kept for furniture restoration projects

Old iron nails kept for furniture restoration projects

After a tour of the ranch and the workshops, we settled in for a delicious lunch under the corridor next to the kitchen. We talked about beauty, history, Spratling’s love of red, white and blue ornamentation that represented to him the colors of melting silver. We saw pre-Columbian sculpture and folk art figures from Spratling’s personal collection.

 

A day with Violante Ulrich is a rich experience by which to understand the lore and history of Taxco silver making and the life of William Spratling. She is an artful cook, outstanding silversmith, great host and dedicated to preserving the ranch which is in need of restoration. We were fortunate to spend this time with her.

At the end of the afternoon there was enough independent time to explore the steep cobbled hill town, go into the church and search for more silver treasures before heading back to Tenancingo.

 

A surprise awaited us! In the church was sculptor Miguel D. Sobrino who created the silver Virgin of Guadalupe that stands beside the altar encased in protective glass. Except today, Our Lady had been removed from her case and was being thoroughly cleaned to prepare her for a move to the Basilica de Guadalupe in Mexico City to greet Pope Francis.

 

We enjoyed lots of views — from the Las Delicias rooftop garden and the terrace overlooking the central plaza. For some on the study tour, this trip to Taxco was a dream come true. I hadn’t been back for 44 years until last September. I’m looking forward to the next time. I hope you can come with me.

Ten wonderful women on the February 2016 study tour on the Spratling terrace

Ten wonderful women + me, February 2016 study tour on the Spratling terrace

I will be organizing this rebozo study tour for mid-September 2016 to coincide with the Tenancingo rebozo fair. There will be a few modifications in the itinerary we just completed but the trip to Taxco is set in stone! Please tell me if you are interested. Get on the notification list!

 

If you want to take a silver jewelry making workshop at the Spratling Ranch, please contact Violante directly. She is also starting a B&B there, so there are some accommodations. The ranch is in need of restoration so please support her efforts in any way you can. It’s an important part of Mexican history. Thank you!

  

 

 

 

12 Responses to A Day with Silver Icon William Spratling and Heir Violante Ulrich in Taxco, Mexico

  1. Hi Norma – just back from San Cristobal de las Casas – what a beautiful town. Have never been to a Latin American city where one rarely heard a horn being blown. Gave your HELLO to Patrick although he ended up not being our guide….had a friend who took us.

    Would you add me to your list of people to send blog information on your Sept. trip? Susanne

    • Hi, Susanne, it would be great to have you with me for September in Tenancingo. You are added to the list and I’ll send you the link, as I am ready now to take registrations! Thank YOU and so glad you enjoyed San Cristobal de las Casas. Yes, it’s also a magical Mexican place.

      • Norma – I think your Feb. 2017 trip would fit my budget better than the trip in September. Just let me know when I need to send you a deposit.

        Thanks, Susanne

  2. Wowie! That’s where I want to visit! What a great Taxco story!!! Keep pestering me about it! Love Lynn Nichols

  3. So glad you got to go to the ranch. Looks like a great day in Taxco!

  4. Dear Norma,

    I loved the blog.We too were I n Taxco in the early 70s. We were young and in Mexico for the first time . Tom was attending a seminar in Acapulco.We were taken to Taxco for a day trip. From the bus we saw a wonderful silver and enamel necklace. We got off the bus went in and bought it. It is still a favorite of mine. Three years ago we were again in Taxco. In spite of changes it remains a unique and very magical place.

  5. Keep me informed as Sept develops.

  6. How I wish I could go with you on this trip! I’ve been to Taxco several times and always enjoyed it but this is quite a unique opportunity especially for the collector/lover of fine sterling silver jewelry from Taxco. We have every related book published on Taxco silver but this would bring it all to life beautifully. Best wishes to you!

    • Cathey, it would be a delight to have you with us. I hope you will consider it. I’ll put you on the list for more details as I get the September trip organized. While I don’t personally know you, I know about your long-time love and support of Mexico. You would be a special addition. -Norma

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