Category Archives: Food & Recipes

Hormigas in the Salsa: Cooking in Oaxaca with Chef Pilar Cabrera Arroyo

People cook and eat in Oaxaca based on what’s available seasonally in local markets — or in their backyard.  Today it was huitlacoche that was among the delicacies we could procure at the Mercado de la Merced.  This is the neighborhood market where Pilar’s family shopped because they lived nearby.  The market tour offers a great orientation to the cooking class.

   

And what about the hormigas? Pilar and her daughter Ita gathered the hormigas in the early dewy grasses of morning.

After a field trip foraging through the Mercado de la Merced for ingredients, we made our way to Pilar’s Colonia Reforma kitchen, ample enough for all eight cooking class participants to gather, learn and prepare the menu.  There sat the hormigas, washed, plump and round in the metate waiting for the grinding stone and hand to pulverize them into the Salsa de Chicatana that would top the Memelitas appetizer. (Do you recognize them, below left?)

   

Add plenty of fresh squeezed lime juice! Pilar commented that hormigas are a great protein source. (I heard the same about chapulines earlier in the week from my friends in Teotitlan who liberally sprinkle this toasted, tasty treat on just about everything they eat.)

   

Our group of four Guanajuatecos were joined by two Estadounidenses and two Australians.  Pilar easily went back and forth in English and Spanish with her instruction so that all the participants could understand each step.  Complete menus in English guided us, too.

 

Before we sat down at the dining room table to the meal, we all gathered in the living room area for a mezcal tasting.  Pilar brought out three different types of mezcal accompanied with orange and lime slices, plus gusano salt (ground worms, chiles, and sea salt) for dipping and sucking before or after sipping.

   

Menu del dia: 100% Oaxaca–memelitas, sopa de guias, chichilo con pollo or res (chicken or beef with Chichilo mole sauce), salsa de chicatanas, and nieve de mango (mango sorbet with a garnish of fruit of the nopal cactus called tuna).

The tourism and economic development delegation from Guanajuato is interested in starting a cultural tourism program in some of its smaller towns in the state.  Organizing cooking classes is one goal they have, which is why we attended to see how the master of the kitchen Pilar organizes her programs.

Pilar’s hospitality and expertise provided a perfect example for them to model!

Casa de los Sabores Cooking School or website.

Mercado de la Merced (corner Murguia and Insurgentes, near Calle de la Republica)

 

Foodie Heaven: Oaxaca, Mexico

Falling in love with Oaxaca centers on food consumption, food ingredients, the visual, sensory excitement of food in its raw or cooked state, the preparation that goes into it, and of course the taste once a fork-full hits your salivary glands and begins its magic. From the street to the finest restaurants, food culture reigns in Oaxaca, Mexico.

Here are a few of my favorite food images from the past week.

     From Casa Oaxaca, we have Squash Blossom Soup with the local herb chipil, quesillo stuffed squash blossoms, and a blue corn tortilla drizzled with garlic oil, topped with queso fresco accompanied with fresh made salsa with red tomatoes and tomatillos.

Street vendors can be mobile carts on bicycles.  They sell everything from fresh fruit cups to aguas (fruit drinks like horchata and agua de sandia — watermelon juice), empañadas and quesadillas.

 An agua de sandia!

 

The food a La Zandunga continues to be delicious.  They moved from their corner location that used to be cater corner to La Biznaga and are right next door on Calle Garcia Virgil one block from Santo Domingo Church.  The mashed potatoes with either the stewed pork (left) or the roasted chicken is amazing. You can’t go wrong with either.  The space is up-tempo, Mexican-contempo with many more tables to accommodate the crowds since the New York Times travel section featured them in 36 Hours: Oaxaca, Mexico written by Freda Moon.

  

The daily special at Terra Nova on the Zocalo was a big plate of mixed fresh fruit (pineapple, watermelon, cantaloupe, papaya, mango), cottage cheese, and pineapple jello (they call this gelatina, which has 90% less sugar than our U.S. version, making it absolutely tasty.)

Below, this street vendor on a bicycle sells steamed tamales.  Occasionally, his wheel will come loose, and he’ll need to stop to fix it, which is how I was able to take this photo.  See Taste Oaxaca: Shop, Cook, Eat coming up in winter 2013.

El Mural de los Poblanos, Puebla, Mexico Restaurant Continues to Please

“It was wonderful, close to perfect.” That’s what I told NY Times travel writer Freda Moon this morning when she asked how my meal was at El Mural de los Poblanos.
Hollie and I settled in after escaping a particularly violent thunderstorm, rain pellets pounding our umbrellas as we stepped carefully along the slippery paving stones from the Zocalo to the restaurant two blocks away.  It was impossible to hurry despite the weather.
First, Isaias welcomed and escorted us to a table, brought fresh baked rolls, butter, two glasses of Mexican Baja Tempranillo-Cabernet house wine (yummy), and an amuse de bouche of spicy, hearty red-broth with chicharrones.
Then, we got into the serious ordering:  fresh fish in casserole (cazuela) with garlic and butter.  Simple, succulent.  I think it was sea bass. Cooked to glossy perfection. We shared this and the ribeye steak (this is beef country), seasoned with just a bit of heat, grilled medium-rare (more on the rare side) to perfection, then topped with grilled, crunchy garlic slices.  The dish was accompanied by a skewer of roasted, grilled baby potatoes and baby onions. The sprout salad with walnuts and avocado was big enough to share and a great interlude to entree bites.
After dinner, we ordered the almond tart with a small scoop of housemade vanilla ice cream to share.  It was a perfect ending to the meal.  But, we brought our own Talavera de las Americas mezcal cups, so topped it all off by sharing a shot glass of El Cortijo Añejo — a smokey, aged mezcal that is one of my favorites.
Total cost of all this, including two entrees, salad, two glasses of wine each, dessert and mezcal was $1,195 pesos for two, not including tip (we left 15 percent).  Translated to the current exchange rate of 13.8 pesos to the dollar, we spent $43.00USD each.
Chef Lisette Galicia Solis is offering cooking classes Monday-Saturday with 2-day notice, 1,000 pesos per person, no minimum.
Service by Isaias and Enrique was attentive, not overbearing.
It’s still my favorite Puebla restaurant. We ate there twice during this trip. I would choose dining here before La Conjura or the restaurants at La Purificadora and Casa Reyna any day.
P.S.  I pay full price for every meal I eat, take no discounts or complimentary giveaways, FYI.

Recipe: Squash Blossom Frittata — Garden Edibles Oaxaca Style

Squash Blossom Frittata on a Uriarte Talavera Plate

One of my favorite tastes in Oaxaca is fresh squash blossoms.  They are so beautiful, a delicious golden-yellow food taste that signals the beginning of summer. In Oaxaca, the markets will be filled with bunches of squash blossoms like edible bouquets.

I’m in North Carolina for a few more weeks before I return to Mexico in mid-June.  Stephen, my husband, has been cultivating our organic garden and we have a patch of volunteer squash plants.  We are also part of Granite Springs CSA in Pittsboro.  Each week we receive a bountiful basket of organic food grown by Meredith and her troupe.  This week, the special treat was baby zucchini and yellow crooknecks.  Along with our bumper crop of volunteer male (no fruit) squash blossoms, creativity was calling.

For our May 26 wedding anniversary, Stephen cooked us a delicious breakfast –this squash blossom frittata.  Here’s the recipe.

Ingredients

  • 3-4 blossoms, rinsed in vinegar water and patted dry
  • 1-2 small zucchini or yellow squash, sliced thinly
  • 4 eggs
  • 3 T. water
  • 3 T. olive oil
  • 3 T. butter
  • 1 small yellow onion, chopped
  • 1/4-1/2 cup Queso fresco or Ricotta cheese
  • Chopped parsley or cilantro (optional)
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

  1. Beat eggs and water in a bowl until frothy. Add parsley or cilantro if you are using them. Add  salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
  2. Pick 3 to 4 blossoms per person and 1 or 2 baby yellow or green summer squash. Rinse blossoms well and drain on paper towels.
  3. Melt butter  and olive oil.  Sauté the onions and zucchini or squash until soft. Add blossoms and sauté for about 30 minutes. Remove blossoms from pan.
  4. Pour egg mix into the same pan, and add onions, and squash to the pan – arranging evenly.  Lay blossoms out like a sunburst radiating from the center to denote 4 equal portions.
  5. Cook over medium-low heat in an 8″ omelet pan until almost set. Dab top with soft cheese in equal parts around top of frittata.  Most dairy sections of U.S. supermarkets now carry Queso fresco!  Thank you, Mexican immigrants.
  6. Finish under broiler about 3 minutes until lightly puffed and slightly browned.

Taste Oaxaca: Shop, Cook, Eat — Foodie Heaven

Immerse yourself in the food culture of Oaxaca during this all-inclusive, 5-day, 4-night eating, cooking workshop extravaganza from Thursday-Monday, February 21-25, 2013.  Oaxaca is known for her chocolate, mezcal, organic maize (corn), fresh fruits and vegetables, abundant chiles, savory spices and family operated kitchens.  Superb meals are around every street corner and in fine dining establishments.  Hand to mouth.  Market basket to kitchen. Pan to plate. We will explore it all.

Make this your perfect winter getaway!  Limited to 6 people.

 

Come with us to enjoy meals in fine-dining restaurants.  Sample some of the finest mezcal made in Oaxaca not available for export.  Taste humble street and market food from trusted vendors.  Participate in food shopping and tasting to learn about local ingredients.  Roll up your sleeves and make one of Oaxaca’s famous moles with a cooking class from a noted local chef.

   

Cooking class includes a complete multi-course menu, from soup or salad through dessert. Your experienced cooking instructor has recorded traditional recipes passed down through the generations.   You will receive complete recipes printed in English that you can adapt to available ingredients at home.

Taste Oaxaca is limited to 6 participants.

What Taste Oaxaca includes:

  • 1 cooking class
  • 4 breakfasts
  • 3 tasting dinners
  • 3 lunches
  • 4 nights lodging
  • Mescal tasting
  • Market excursions
  • Associated on-ground transportation
  
Preliminary Itinerary: 

Day 1: Thursday, February 21, arrive in Oaxaca and check in to our hotel, overnight Oaxaca

Day 2: Friday, February 22, market shopping and cooking class, afternoon visit to Oaxaca’s biggest cooking supply store, fine-dining at one of Oaxaca’s top restaurants, overnight Oaxaca (B, L, D)

Day 3: Saturday, February 23, eat Oaxaca style, explore organic market food stalls, afternoon on your own with options of what to see and explore, taste great mezcal, and experience fine-dining, overnight Oaxaca (B, D)

Day 4: Sunday, February 24, travel to the famed Sunday market in Tlacolula,  meet for lunch at a local comedor, travel to Teotitlan in late afternoon for a weaving demonstration, return to Oaxaca for a farewell supper.  (B, L, D)

Day 5: Monday, February 25, depart after breakfast.

Taste Oaxaca with Norma Hawthorne, executive director of Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC.  Norma has organized this food shopping, cooking and eating experience based on her interest and background as former owner of a gourmet cookware shop, cooking school and catering business.  In addition, Norma taught classes in French, Mexican and Chinese cooking for ten years through Indiana University Division of Continuing Education.  She led Culinary Tour of France, taking participants to Paris and Lyon to meet, eat and cook with the great chefs Paul Bocuse, Georges Blanc and Alain Chapel.
 

Cost:  The base cost is $995 USD per person, double occupancy and private bath.  Programs of this type and length cost more than twice as much!  Single supplement is $1,295.

It does NOT include airfare, taxes, admissions to museums and archeological sites, gratuities, travel insurance, liquor/alcoholic beverages, some meals and some transportation not included in the itinerary.

Lodging/Accommodations

In Oaxaca city, we will stay in a lovely upscale bed and breakfast featured in many travel articles and rated very highly.  We will dine at some of my favorite restaurants.

Please indicate your preference on the registration form.

 

Reservations,  and Cancellations

A 50% deposit ($800) is required to guarantee your spot.  The final payment for the balance due (including any supplemental costs) shall be postmarked by January 1, 2012.  We request Payment with PayPal.  We will be happy to send you an  invoice.

If cancellation is necessary, please notify us in writing by email.   After April 1, no refunds are possible; however, we will make every possible effort to fill your reserved space.  If you cancel before April 1, we will refund 50% of your deposit.  We strongly recommend that you take out trip cancellation, baggage, emergency evacuation and medical insurance before you begin your trip, since unforeseen circumstances are possible.

To register or for questions, contact:  oaxacaculture@me.com

This workshop is produced by Norma Hawthorne, Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC.  For more information, see: http://oaxacaculture.com