Category Archives: Teotitlan del Valle

Oaxaca: Beauty is Everywhere — And It’s Safe, Too

Oaxaca is beautiful and safe, says Elliot Stoller, who visited in December 2011.  He recently wrote to me and ordered the self-guided tour map of Teotitlan del Valle to prepare for his trip next year.  Elliot’s photos are so beautiful that I want to share them with you (with his permission, of course).  And his testimonial about safety deserves attention.

Oaxaca: Beauty is Everywhere

” I felt as safe in Oaxaca as I feel in any city in the USA. The people are friendly and helpful. In fact, in the evenings, I felt safer in Oaxaca than I do in Seattle because there were so many people out and about… socializing, eating at sidewalk cafes, watching performances of folk dancers or taking part in Las Posadas (religious processions) and enjoying the wonderful weather.

“I know about 40 words of Spanish but I always found that the Oaxaca people would be patient and we found a way to communicate. Once, I was in a restaurant and I couldn’t read the menu. I was trying to order tortillas with different fillings. The cook motioned for me to come up to where everything was cooking and she took off the pot lids so I could point at the fillings I wanted.

“A guide we hired took us to Teotitlan Del Valle but we stopped at only one workshop/home. I returned to Teotitlan on the Fundacion En Via tour (a non-profit that fights poverty through micro-finance) so I was able so see more of the town and a more realistic picture of the townspeople.

“I love Oaxaca. I plan to go back again in December  this year for two more weeks. And I’m fantasizing about retiring there. I fell in love with Oaxaca as you can probably tell from my photographs.

“Thank you for your wonderful blog,”

Elliot Stoller,  Seattle, Washington

***

Upcoming photography workshops in Oaxaca:  Portrait Photography, Market Towns and Artisan Villages, and Day of the Dead

 

Tribute to the Women of Oaxaca by Lila Downs. Disfruta bien! Enjoy!


“Era importante para mí hacer un tributo a algunas mujeres de mi país que muelen maíz y lo llevan al canto y lo celebran como un milagro que a mí me ha inspirado mucho para poder seguir caminando y cantando.” ~ Lila Downs

“It was important for me to honor the women of my country that grind corn in song and celebrate it as a miracle that inspired me a lot to keep walking and singing.”~ Lila Downs

Video footage filmed in the Tlacolula valley of Oaxaca and the village of Teotitlan del Valle. Disfruta bien! This is where I get to live. Thank you Lila Downs and Paul Cohen for all you do.

Upcoming Oaxaca workshopscreative writing, photography, weaving and natural dyes — give you this sense of place.

Read more about the traditional trajes (costumes, dress) worn by Mexican women with commentary by Sheri Brautigam on Living Textiles of Mexico.

From the Pueblo to Oaxaca: 30 Minutes and Worlds Apart

This week I took a walk to Macuilxochitl, the next village over and located perhaps two miles from Teotitlan del Valle (TDV) along an unpaved road that spurs off from TDV’s main thoroughfare near the middle school.  This was the week I learned polvo, the Spanish word for dust.  Every five minutes a 3-wheeler moto-taxi (tuk-tuk)  slaloms down this road, kicking up a thick dust cloud. Passengers in the rear seat hold a cloth to their noses.  I endured.  It was worth it!

  

  

Macuil, as the locals call it, is a small agricultural pueblo, distinguished by an extraordinary church topped with three red domes that is slowly undergoing renovation. Throughout the village ancient adobe walls are pocked with eroding stones and spider webs.

   

A community museum adjoining the church holds ceramics excavated from pre-conquest history and church ritual relics and paintings hang suspended from walls torn from the Zapotec temple below.

 

Rural Oaxaca life has its treats.  Now, the fields are being prepared for planting.  The hefty bulls, guided by an aging farmer who has done this his entire life, are hauling ancient wood plows worn smooth from time.  The smell is loamy and rich.  In another field, younger men stoop to cut alfalfa to feed their livestock or sell in the morning market.

A few days ago during a late afternoon walk along the foothill path that leads to the dam,  I bumped into a friend along the way.   Together we climbed the rocky outcropping of road lined with blooming nopal cactus and came upon a herd of goats grazing at water’s edge.

A woman and her son, who introduced themselves as Josefina and Helario, came toward us on the path carrying a bundle of firewood they had gathered farther up the hillside.

We followed the goats, the goat-herder, his tethered mares , several dogs, and the mother and son, back down the path and across the river.  Night was falling and I continued on home down the cobbled streets after we all said goodbyes, finishing up my three-hour walk in the country.

  

The next morning, I caught a collectivo and was off to Oaxaca for a two-night, three-day stay.  The city is a burst of color, energy, traffic, noise, excitement, great food and music, and full of commercial bustle.  In Jalatlaco I found respite at Hostal del Barrio where Dueña Oliva (below) and her daughter offer clean, basic lodging for 200 pesos a night.  (Courtyard pictured below.) The hostel is on a narrow, dead-end cobblestone street that reminds me of Italy (above, right).  A block away is a terrific, though pricey Italian trattoria called Toscana.  The pizzas, cooked in a wood-fired orno, are just like those in Rome with perfectly crunchy thin crust and probably the best buy on the menu.

  

I savor the opportunity to enjoy the best of both worlds I love — the country and the city, worlds apart though only a few miles from each other.

In The New York Times: Oaxaca Cultural Navigator

Que milagro!  The New York Times features Oaxaca Cultural Navigator in its 36 Hours: Oaxaca, Mexico article written by travel writer Freda Moon.  The Travel section story on Oaxaca, the first to be published about the city since 2007, appeared in today’s online New York Times.  It will appear in print this Sunday, January 15, 2012.

Forgive me if I have to pinch myself — again and once more.  When I showed the article this afternoon to Federico (Fe) Chavez Sosa, who with his wife Dolores Santiago Arrellanas (Lola) and family, run Galeria Fe y Lola, also noted in Freda’s story, he could hardly believe it. He was beaming!

Needless to say, we are trying to keep our composure.  It’s really a once-in-a-lifetime event for a little-known Zapotec weaving family from a pueblo outside the city to be recognized for their work in this way.  Never mind that their work is extraordinary.  Many people go through life creating something exceptional and rarely get this kind of attention.

So, a big thank you, un beso y abrazo fuerte to Freda for loving Oaxaca and wanting to bring this lovely city back into the limelight after it was tarnished so badly in the APPO wars of 2006.  The city thanks you and so do we.

I’ve written this blog for over four years now.  During this time, I have faithfully tried to write something meaningful at least weekly, so there is a huge compendium of information and photos here for you to sift through, if you are interested.  I don’t propose to know everything about Oaxaca.  In relative terms, I’m a newcomer.  I’ve traveled here regularly during the past seven years, coming three or four times a year for a couple of weeks at a time while I was employed full-time at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill.  Now, at this moment, I get to call this home and stay a while!

Many expatriates have lived here longer and know much more than I do.  We are all here because we love this place, want to support the culture, and find solace in the beauty of the natural world, insight through the artistic endeavors, and connection through the generosity of the people.  Each of us has something valuable to give and each of us wants to offer support in whatever way we are able to bring our varied talents to bear, individually or collectively.

And, there’s always room for more people to come, explore, and discover the creative energy that makes Oaxaca vibrant, satisfying, and stimulating.   Perhaps you will decide to come, then return, and then return again, as I did.  All of us hope that you do.  You won’t be sorry.

In gratitude,

Norma Hawthorne, Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC, January 12, 2012

 

 

Day of the Three Kings: Wise Men Bring Gifts to Children

For our photojournalism workshop we arranged a visit to a local family who have two young daughters, Paula Sarai, age six, and Mayra Belen age three.  We wanted to fully experience the joy of Day of the Three Kings (Dia de los Tres Reyes) through the perspective of the children.  Epiphany, held on January 6, is purely a children’s celebration and much more modest than the U.S. version of Christmas.

  

Here, Mexican children awaken early in the morning to find that the three wise men have delivered gifts under the Christmas tree while they are sleeping. Parents Pedro and Margarita tell us that it is traditional for girls to receive dolls or kitchen sets (cookware and dishes) and for boys to get trucks or bicycles.

  

It was late afternoon when we arrived at the family’s home; it was almost dusk.  After our warm welcome into the interior courtyard of the home, we  join the family around an elaborate wrought-iron table and chairs.  The children come to greet each of us with extended hands, excited to show us their gifts.

Then, Pedro asked us if we know about the special story of the house. No, we said. And he retells the story his grandfather told him 13 years ago:

Many years ago an old man was selling an image of Christ, going door to door in the village of Teotitlan del Valle.  Then, this was primarily a farming community and only the women were home during the day when the men were in the fields.  One woman was interested but said she needed to ask her husband if she could buy the image.  She asked the vendor to return.  When the husband came back from the fields, the man was nowhere to be seen and the husband asked where he was.  Only the crucifix was there leaning against a paddock.  The man and woman put the image inside the house.  They didn’t know if the vendor would return to collect the pesos he was asking for the image or to take the image back.  The vendor never returned.

  

Ever since, the family has looked after the image of Christ.  They thought, maybe they should return it to the church and they took it there and left it.  But the next day, there it was back in their house.  Again, they returned the image to church. And again, the image reappeared in their home. The image grew larger and then they couldn’t get it through the doorway.  So there it stays.  Now, it is behind a glass case, protected.  An altar is now before it and the place where it rests has become a small chapel where people come to pray and bring flowers.

Each year on May 3, the priest arrives to give mass and each year on this day the family changes the clothes of the Christ.  Three years ago, an anthropologist came from Mexico City, authenticated the statue and estimated its age to be 350 years old.  The grandfather is now age 95 and the figure has been here in this house during his entire lifetime.

Do you believe? asked the Grandmother Magdalena. I believe that God is everywhere, she says. We nod in respect.

After our visit to the altar, we gathered around the family dining table to share a blessing of the season.  Margarita passed homemade tostaditos (little tostados) of black beans, lettuce and queso fresco.

Paula and Mayra each take turns cutting the Rosca de Reyes.  Margarita serves traditional Oaxacan hot chocolate (hot chocolate made with water, not milk).  The girls quietly return their gifts, neatly repacked, under the tree.

  

Afterward, we reflected upon the experience of family cohesiveness, the cultural experiences we shared, our ability to take part in holiday celebrations, and the memories of our connection to people that will stay with us forever.