Category Archives: Travel & Tourism

Easter in Oaxaca, Mexico: Semana Santa Photography Workshop

Wednesday, March 27 to Wednesday, April 4, 2013 – 8 days, 7 nights

Discover Oaxaca, use your camera to document the culture and traditions of this most important annual ritual, and immerse yourself in Zapotec village life.  Our expeditions are learning workshops designed to develop your photography skills while you have fun during a global travel experience!

Semana Santa – Holy Week – in Oaxaca, Mexico offers you a rich experience to explore and capture rituals that are practiced today much as they were 500 years ago in Medieval Europe.   They are somber, serious and spiritual, recreating the Last Supper, the Via Doloroso procession to the crucifixion, and the resurrection of Christ.   We arrive in time to take part in the processions of Maundy Thursday and Good Friday, and Easter Sunday mass.

  

Then, on the Monday following Easter Sunday, we will observe the local Zapotec tradition of Baile de los Viejos – Dance of the Old Men.   This is an 8,000 year-old indigenous village practice that ensures cultural continuity, rededication to community values and meeting the collective needs of all, and a mechanism to provide feedback to leaders about their performance as elected officials.  It is visually stunning and participatory.

We will be based in the Zapotec rug weaving village of Teotitlan del Valle, where we will be welcomed into a family-owned and operated bed and breakfast inn, with delicious food and an intimate look into daily life.

 

Expedition Workshop Leader/Instructor is Leah Sobsey, MFA

Leah Sobsey is a nationally recognized, award-winning photographer.  She is also a photography program faculty member at the University of North Carolina—Greensboro (since 2003) and the Duke University Center for Documentary Studies (since 2002).  We selected Leah because of her exceptional teaching experience, her acumen and wide-ranging versatility as a photographer, her recognition as exhibiting artist, and because her work is held in private collections and museums throughout the United States.

Southern Photography blogger/photographer John N. Wall, says “… Sobsey is a first-class photographer, one of the Southern Photographers We Watch Out For, who makes hauntingly beautiful images while she is engaging in thoughtful and complex projects that never fail to enhance our perception of the world around us.  She shows an exceptional range in her work, from documentary work that involves it subjects in the production of their own images to straightforward images characterized by wit and ingenuity to alternative process work that reminds of us of the ways the act of photography transforms our perception of the world.

  

Leah received the MFA from the San Francisco Art Institute (where she has taught) and the BA in anthropology and sociology from Guilford College.  To her credit, Leah was a teaching assistant to Mary Ellen Mark, Amy Arbus, Bob Sacha, and others while attending the Maine Photographic Workshops, where she graduated from and now teaches.  With visual artist Lynn Bregman Blass, Sobsey created the Visual History Collaborative.  VHC works with individuals, families, communities and organizations to create custom art through stories and artifacts — memories and mementos. This is a participatory and inclusive process that invites contributors to build history together.

About the Workshop/Expedition:  Experiential Learning

This is an educational program for beginners as well as more experienced photographers who want to learn more about the technical and creative aspects of their camera, and the art of making a compelling photograph.   Our groups are very small, limited to 10 people.  We are dedicated to giving you personal attention and coaching.  Whatever your skill level, you will gain the knowledge to do more with your camera and reflect what you see with greater creativity. Experimentation is encouraged as participants are expected to stretch, explore and test new ideas. Failures and mistakes are applauded as participants explore new territories and make exciting discoveries.

Build Your Photography Skills!  You Will Learn:

  • The fundamentals of your camera in order to create compelling photographs.
  • The Elements of Time and Perspective – manipulate camera shutter and aperture settings to give emotion to your images.
  • To see the light, the photographer’s basic tool.  Develop a greater appreciation and understanding for the quality of light.
  • The fundamentals of framing, composition and angle of view to create striking images- Work with form, line, light, shadow, shape and space.
  • The “Decisive moment” to capture the world in all its wonderment.
  • How the art of editing and sequencing to can create narrative and tell beautiful compelling stories.
  • To ask hard questions — The ethical and philosophical questions that come up for documentary photographers.

Preliminary 8-Day Itinerary

Day 1, Wednesday, March 27:  Travel to Oaxaca, check into our Teotitlan del Valle Bed and Breakfast Inn.  (Dinner on your own.)

Day 2, Thursday, March 28: Orientation, learning session, Maundy Thursday photography assignment, best of day photography review and critique. (Breakfast, lunch, dinner.)

Day 3, Friday, March 29: Learning session, Good Friday photography assignment, best of day photography review and critique. (Breakfast, dinner.)

Day 4, Saturday, March 30: Learning session, day in Oaxaca city.  Oaxaca city photography assignment.  Travel to/from Oaxaca by shared taxi.   (Breakfast included.  Lunch and dinner on your own.)

Day 5,  Sunday, April 1: Learning session, Easter Sunday photography assignment, best of day photography review and critique.  (Breakfast, lunch and dinner included.)

Day 6, Monday, April 2: Learning session, Dance of the Old Men photography assignment.  (Breakfast, dinner included.  Lunch on your own.)

Day 7, Tuesday, April 3: Learning session: editing and selection for final presentation.  Best of prior day review and critique.  Prepare for final Best of Week evening photo presentation. (Breakfast and dinner included.  Lunch on your own.)

Day 8, Wednesday, April 4:  Depart.

A Cultural Immersion Experience of a Lifetime That Includes:
  • 7 breakfasts, 2 lunches, 5 dinners
  • Teotitlan lodging in a family operated guest house
  • All instruction with one private coaching session
  • Transportation associated with the itinerary
  • Comprehensive travel insurance as a partner with the Council on International Educational Exchange that includes $250,000 accident and sickness medical expense. Yes, we include this for all participants as part of your registration fee!
  • Optional for an added cost of $110 per person: Natural Disaster and Political Evacuation as well as Trip Cancellation and Interruption
What You Should Bring

  • Your energy and enthusiasm
  • Digital SLR camera
  • Laptop computer
  • Software for organizing and presenting images (such as Lightroom)
  • Batteries and battery charger
  • Camera Memory card(s) and data stick
  • Pen and notepad
  • Sturdy, comfortable walking shoes, sun protection, sun hat
(Upon registration, you will receive a complete packet and information guide with suggested packing list and other useful information.)
Cost: The basic cost for the trip is $1,495. USD per person. Deposit of $750 to reserve. This includes six nights lodging double occupancy with shared bath. Most travel workshops of this type and length cost more than twice as much! It does NOT include airfare, taxes, tips/gratuities, liquor/alcoholic beverages, some meals as specified in the itinerary, site entry fees, and transportation.
Four Add-on Options
  • Option 1: Shared room/double occupancy with private bath. $1,695. Deposit to reserve: $850.
  • Option 2: Single Supplement, private room with private bath; $1,995. Deposit to reserve: $1,000.
  • Option 3: Add more nights lodging in Oaxaca City either before or after the workshop. Please specify dates. $145 per night.
  • Option 4:  Supplemental trip cancellation insurance, $110.

Reservations and Cancellations. A 50% deposit is required to guarantee your spot. The final payment for the balance due (including any supplemental costs) shall be made by November 16, 2012. Payment is accepted with PayPal. We will send you an itemized invoice.

Please understand that we make lodging and transportation arrangements months in advance of the program. Deposits or payments in full are often required by our hosts. If cancellation is necessary, please notify us in writing by email. After November 16, 2012, no refunds are possible; however, we will make every possible effort to fill your reserved space or you may send a substitute. If you cancel on or before November 16, 2012, we will refund 50% of your deposit.

We strongly recommend that you take out trip cancellation, baggage, emergency evacuation and medical insurance before you begin your trip, since unforeseen circumstances are possible.

To register, contact: normahawthorne@mac.com. We accept payment with PayPal only. As soon as you tell us you are ready to register, we will send you a PayPal invoice. Thank you.

This workshop is produced by Norma Hawthorne, Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC. We reserve the right to alter the itinerary and make instructor substitutions without notice.

Dilemma: Separating the blog from my personal life — gaps and overlaps

This post is not so much about life and travel to, in, and around Oaxaca and Mexico,  as it is an update about where I’ve been over the last few weeks and where I am now — both in the physical and existential sense. It isn’t easy to write about this since it means going beyond the usual and revealing more about what I’m feeling. An emotional essay is not my standard, and presents a dilemma about how much I should talk about online that personal. While Oaxaca Cultural Navigator is my personal perspective, it focuses on travel, culture, art, and history, etc.  Lately, I haven’t been writing as regularly because my attention is elsewhere and I feel like I want to explain this.

My 96-1/2-year-old mother is nearing the end of her life.  Yet, we don’t know when her life will end.  She has had a long life. Her life has been long enough to realize her dreams, though she has fulfilled only a few of them. Often, the yearnings of women of her generation were suppressed in order to support home and family. She has been my role model for how to live otherwise with more independence and intention.

In the past four weeks I have been to Northern California twice, making round trips from Mexico City each time to have time with her and to give my caretaker sister some time for herself. But, it’s never enough time when you know that time is finite and the person who you love and who gave you life is strugglng to sustain her own. I am sad, and feel that however much time I’ve had with her still won’t fill the gap — for her and for me. In the last few days my mom has told her children and grandchildren how much she loves us and how proud she is of us. The messages are by email with copies to us all.  (This is a perfect  goodbye from my mom who has used the Internet for over 10 years.) I know she is getting ready, and in this way she is preparing us. I think I’m prepared, but ….

Last week, I flew from San Francisco to Boston, arriving in the middle of the night, staying with friends, and then driving to Portland, Maine, to meet up with my husband. We hadn’t seen each other in two months because of all this back and forth. Now, I am with him in a little cabin at the edge of a beautiful Maine lake where there is no WiFi connection. A blessing for us. We are here on vacation for another 10 days.

This morning, at the end of our yoga class, our instructor asked us to continue cool down by going into the fetal position. As I curled up and the tears came, I felt for a moment the sensation of birth and death. Beginning and ending of life. Thinking of my mother and her journey, and exit. This is what preoccupies me now.

This means not as many blog posts. And, because I’m not in Oaxaca right now, I am unable to give you daily updates of life there as I know it. An information gap for me and for you. And, because of my frame of mind, I’m not able to write as often right now.

Hopefully, more will come soon. I wanted you to know, and appreciate your patience and understanding.

Abrazos,
Norma

Shop Mexico: The Artisan Sisters Week 11–Bertha Cruz Alebrijes

Whimsical carved copal wood and hand painted, these Oaxaca treasures from the studio workshop of artisan Bertha Cruz can be yours. Send me an email to let me know which one you want and I will send you a PayPal invoice. all prices include shipping and handling for the continental U.S.A.

First: SOLD. Do the Funky Chicken. Great barnyard friend to add whimsy to any cockadoodledoo kitchen. About 4″ high and 3″ wide. Incredible paint job. One piece of wood. Signed.

Second: Armadillo. SOLD. This small figure has big personality. Stands about 2″ high and 4″ long. Removable tail. Signed.

Third: La Paloma Box. SOLD.I goofed and forgot to look at the bottom when I bought this treasure-keeper from Bertha. It is not signed. My mistake brings you a big discount for this gorgeous, perfectly painted piece.

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A Fast Walk Through Oaxaca, Mexico

A special treat to share with you! See Oaxaca in accelerated motion, lots of stunning visual in two minutes. Disfruta bien.

Oaxaca Walk Through from LernandoFopez on Vimeo.

Go beyond armchair travel! Come experience Oaxaca through one of our upcoming photography workshops, Day of the Dead Photo Expedition or Street Photography!

Mineral de Pozos, Guanajuato — Mexico’s Newest Pueblo Magico

For nearly 100 years Mineral de Pozos, Guanajuato, Mexico, has been an abandoned mining town on the verge of extinction.  Today, recognized by the federal government as a Pueblo Magico, the once prosperous town is making a comeback as a place to relax, kick-back, and enjoy.   Just 45-minutes away from the bustling expatriate mecca of San Miguel de Allende, Pozos offers what San Miguel is not — a small-scale, tranquil, serene, intimate and lower-key approach to life.  There are excellent restaurants and stunning accommodations where you can rest, refresh, and use as a base to explore the environs.

 

I loved walking the original cobblestone streets.  I felt as if I was transported back to the early 20th century, and the architecture reminded me of old west towns you might see in 1950′s cowboy movies.

 

The hill town is easy to traverse, and within a few blocks of the lovely Su Casa B&B where I stayed, I discovered the central plaza, lined with several excellent art galleries, shops, El Secreto de Pozos B&B and Galleria No. 6.  There is a  local art scene with painting, sculpture, photography, music and pre-hispanic instruments, plus a self-guided gallery tour with each place well-marked.

   

Mineral de Pozos is on the priority list for tourism development by the federal and state offices of tourism.  Pozos is also one of Adriana Cortes-Jimenez’ priorities.  Her organization, Fundacion Communitaria del Bajio, is investing in the lives of local people who have the talent and wherewithal to build a tourism infrastructure that is owned and operated by Mexicans.

   

So often I heard, “We don’t want Pozos to become another San Miguel,” during the three days I was there.  What does this mean? I asked people.  I learned about how important it is to develop and invest in local ownership of businesses so that Mexicans can have a share of the economic prosperity that tourism brings.  This means more than being trained as the restaurant cook, server, gardener or housekeeper.  It means participating in the decisions of how the town develops, owning land, getting micro-finance loans to start restaurants, guide services, bed and breakfasts, and shops, and the training to run these successfully.

 

Please don’t get me wrong.  San Miguel de Allende is a magnificent historic hill town with an incredible jardin (central garden), a splendid church, great walking streets, with an extraordinary art scene.  It is a shopper’s paradise and many expats love the opportunity to live there to discover their passions.  With its million dollar mansions and amazing views, it’s no wonder that the village has exploded and attracted the artistic and those searching for another way of life.  I loved my visit to San Miguel and appreciated knowing it better!  Oaxaca is where I belong.

Mexico was colonized by the Spanish in 1521 when Cortes landed in Veracruz.  Mexicans have fought against colonialism for much of the nation’s existence. However, most major industry and manufacturing is still owned by foreigners.  Walmart is one of Mexico’s largest employers.  Canadians operate the mines in Guanajuato and pay minimum wage, I’m told.  Mexico is oil-rich but has no refineries, shipping its natural resource to the U.S. for processing, and then back again to be used.

Tourism in Pozos represents a new opportunity for local ownership and control of one’s own destiny.  For visitors, the opportunity is to discover great food, stunning views, excellent hiking and mountain bike trails, an opportunity to do community service with a local composting effort, and nature photography at its finest with abandoned mines as archeological focal points.

I hope you will give yourself time to go beyond San Miguel de Allende to take it a bit slower in Pozos.  You won’t be sorry.

If you are interested in supporting the work of Fundacion Communitaria del Bajio, please contact Adriana Cortes Jimenez.

   

You might be interested in knowing that the blurry photos above are intentional.  I am using an experimental lens called the Lensbaby Muse for my Nikon.  It’s fun and creates some very interesting, and sometimes amusing, images!  My friend Sam Robbins calls it the Woogity.