Tag Archives: culture

Linking Oaxaca Past to Present Through Arts and Design

The New York Times featured Oaxaca as a living example of how to best marry past and present in its June 15, 2013 feature story,  The Past Has a Presence Here written by Edward Rothstein in The Critic’s Notebook in the Times Arts & Design section.  Says Rothstein, “In the museums and gardens of Oaxaca, Mexico, unlike those of the United States, the character of history is unvarnished.”

History converges in Oaxaca, Mexico because her indigenous people have survived for millenia despite conquest, wars, disease, poverty and malnutrition.  The archeological ruins of Monte Alban and Mitla are evidence through extraordinary physical remains of the building and destruction of great civilizations.  Descendants live in the valleys below with language, culture and art intact.  Her food — mole, squash, corn, beans, chiles — are also a living testimony to creativity and adaptation in a harsh land.

Rothstein uses a good part of his “column inches” to discuss the importance and impact of the Ethnobotanical Gardens designed and developed by Alejandro de Avila B.  It is a living centerpiece of Oaxaca’s cultural history — a compendium of native plants that people have and continue to depend on for fiber, natural color, shelter, and beauty.

Oaxaca is rich in tradition that has not died out and is only accessible through memory and museum exhibitions.

He goes on to say, “But how different all of this is from images of the indigenous past north of the border! There are few areas where evidence of ancient state-size power exists (mainly in the 2,000-year-old relics of societies that once thrived along the Ohio, Tennessee and Mississippi Rivers). There are few places where cultural continuity is even remotely clear, and where ancient languages are still widely spoken. Even before colonization, cultures disappeared, leaving behind neither oral traditions nor written records. And forced migrations and centuries of warfare so disrupted native traditions that the past now seems little more than an identity-affirming fantasy.”

I think of the Taos pueblo, the Four Corners in Utah, Arizona, Nevada and Colorado, the dioramas and exhibitions in the Museum of the American Indian,  annual Indiana pow-wows of the Potawatomi to bring far-flung tribal members together, and the painful history of exile, annihilation and reservations.

What do you think of when you read Rothstein’s article?

And, yes, Oaxaca is safe.  I am on an airplane today to Mexico City, then Puebla.  I’ll pick back up on my posts in a few days.

Plus, thanks to friend Leslie Fiske Larson for bringing this NY Times article to my attention! Leslie spent several months volunteering at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca and knows a great pushcart fruit stand right around the corner!  Yummy papaya.

 

Cinco de Mayo and the Battle of Puebla

First of all, it’s important to know that today, Cinco de Mayo, is NOT Mexican Independence Day, which is September 16, 1810.

Nevertheless, it marks a significant date in history when the French army was defeated in Puebla on May 5, 1862, marking an important symbolic moment to curtail Napoleon Bonaparte’s designs on establishing a monarchy in North America.  When you visit Puebla you can still see the bullet holes in front of the house occupied by General Ignacio Zaragoza.

 

Most of us know Cinco de Mayo as a U.S. celebration of Latino culture.  There are 44.3 million Latinos living in the U.S. according to the 2008 census representing 15 percent of the population.

Perhaps we know Cinco de Mayo as the name of a favorite local Tex-Mex restaurant.  Isn’t there a Cinco de Mayo Mexican restaurant in your town?  There is in mine!  And today, many will of us will welcome the occasion to have a party and raise a toast to our southern neighbor with a beer or Margarita.  What are you doing tonight?

But there’s much more to it than that, according to historian David Hayes-Bautista, as reported today by CNN and Reza Gostar in GlendoraPatch.  It seems that Cinco de Mayo was a rallying cry in the U.S. by Latinos against the elitist French monarchy, which was sympathetic to the Confederacy during the Civil War.   At that time, Latinos sided with the Union, fearing that a Confederacy win would expand slavery to include them.

Puebla is Angelopolis, City of Angels

Dr. Hayes-Bautista, who is director of UCLA’s Center for the Study of Latino Health and Culture, has uncovered the first groundbreaking research that links the celebration of liberation for Mexicans with the U.S. Civil War and the hope that the Union would prevail.  The win at the Battle of Puebla by the Mexican freedom fighters against the elitists energized many Americans early in the war when the Confederacy was powerful, especially Latinos.

So, as you raise your glass with a hearty Salud, recall that Latinos volunteered to serve in the Union Army in order to preserve freedom, independence, and fight for racial justice.

 

 

http://glendora.patch.com/articles/history-of-cinco-de-mayo-a-mexican-or-american-holiday

Black and White Photography Magazine Spotlights Oaxaca Workshop Instructor

Black and White Photography Magazine features the work of fine art photographer Sam Robbins in its current issue Number 91.  Sam co-leads our summer 2012 Oaxaca Photography Expedition: Market Towns and Artisan Villages with her husband Tom, also an art photographer and architecture professor.

As a testimony to their extraordinary teaching style and technical knowledge, three of last year’s participants are returning and the program is almost full as of this writing.  We have TWO spaces left.

The digital photography workshop is based in Teotitlan del Valle for a photographic cultural immersion experience.  The option is to also bring a second film camera to take your black and white shots. It is for beginners to advanced intermediate amateur photographers.

You can see Sam and Tom Robbins work at their website.

Please send me an email if you are interested in attending with us!

Dance of the Old Men in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca

It looks like Carnival.  Some people call it Carnival.  But, it isn’t.  El Baile de los Viejos — Dance of the Old Men — is an ancient annual Zapotec pre-Hispanic tradition.  The “dance” is a ritual communication to ensure the stability and survival of a people.  The dancers remind the volunteer elected village leaders and especially the president to attend to their own behavior and the justice of their decisions.

The oral history of this dance, also called “disfrasan de vestementas,” is passed from generation to generation.  I asked Pedro Montano Lorenzo to tell me the story of the Dance of the Old Men.  We are sitting all together around the table for comida (lunch) during a giant afternoon thunder and lightening storm.  The heavens are pouring rain. Listen!  he says to his nearly adult children.  This is important for you to know.

 

The spirits of the Old Men first came to the village to save the people.  They return each year to celebrate life and remind us that we must be good people.  The Old Men have the right to represent the people, and speak honestly and directly to the authorities on their behalf.  They must have the courage to tell the president of the village about what needs to be improved.  They transmit to the leaders specific areas of concern after going from home to home in their section of town to talk directly to the people. Pedro says this tradition is “muy fuerte” — very strong and powerful.  It is a reminder that the people are more powerful than the leadership, and it is the people who put them there.

The Old Men are masked and anonymous.  Each of the five sections of the village select their “old man” representatives.  These are trusted individuals who speak Zapotec and know the traditions and customs.  They must be be strong enough to hear the issues and complaints of the people in their section and transmit the information honestly to the leadership.  Theirs is a serious responsibility.

 

Each section hosts a party that is financed by the people of the section, every household giving according to their means.  It could be money, a bottle of mezcal or a chicken.  The party is to welcome the Old Men from the other world, to celebrate them, and to feed them and give them strength before they leave the host house and proceed to the municipal building where they will meet with the president to give feedback.  Each section goes to the municipal building on one of the five days to speak to the president and dance the ritual, hence the five-day celebration.

The Old Men and their two other-worldly assistants, men dressed as women (to represent the women of the village, I am told), laugh with a ribald, stylized “risa” that tells everyone they are present and to pay attention.  The laugh is called a broma sannas — a good joke — to remind the pueblo that is needs to be in equilibrium and to restore good feelings if relationships need mending.

The band accompanies the procession and all ritual gatherings

The Old Men wear traditional manta cloth out of respect for the old ways.  They perform a ritual dance in the municipal palace with the president and village leaders to mime the relationship between the leaders and the village people.  The dance says that there is mutual respect between the leadership and the people, that they agree to fulfill the obligations to the village, responsible for each others’ behavior and the behavior of the leadership.  The dancers give an offering of mezcal, sweets and beer to the president of the village.  This is a ritual exchange to offer congratulations if everything is going well.  It can also be a  reminder that the balance of power is out of equilibrium and needs correction.

Some people think that the fiesta celebrates the resurrection of Jesus because it falls on the Monday immediately after Easter Sunday and call it Carnival.  Others say it has no relationship to Christianity and is an ancient pre-Hispanic practice.  All say that the children need to know this story in order to sustain the culture.

Photography Portrait of An Aging Weaver: Keeping the Traditions

Secundino Bazan Mendoza is eighty-five years old.  He is the subject of today’s Oaxaca, Mexico portrait photography session along with his wife Rosa Rosa Bazan and adult daughter Ester.  This was pure serendipity.

Portrait of Rosa, Secundino and Ester by Norma Hawthorne

Secundino is a weaver of traditional blankets and serapes.  He shears the local sheep raised in Teotitlan del Valle, preferring them to those raised in the highlands because the fleece is thinner and softer.  He cards and then washes the wool in the stream that runs through town, rubbing it against the river rocks to soften it even more.  Then he spins it himself and weaves it.  The wool is undyed and Secundino weaves a traditional early Zapotec design that is not used much today.

 

(Portraits of Secundino by Norma Hawthorne in natural light with reflector.)

When U.S. importers came to Teotitlan del Valle in the 1960′s and 70′s, they found great weavers like Secundino who were making horse blankets, serapes and ponchos.  The importers wanted to meet the marketplace home decor demand for  Santa Fe Style.  They asked the weavers to make floor rugs and employ Navajo designs.  The village became even more well known and prosperous.  Over the years, many local families began exporting their own rugs, working with dealers in the U.S., and becoming entrepreneurs in their own right.

Lifelong Partners by Jessica Santiago Guzman

Secundino Bazan Mendoza never changed.  He kept weaving the blankets and serapes using undyed natural wool.  He would weave two mirror pieces on his one small loom and stitch them up the center the way it was done a hundred years ago.  The way his father and grandfather taught him.  He may be the only one in the village still doing it this way.  He can complete two or three blankets a year now.

 

(Above:  Rosa and Secundino in front of Norma’s blanket.  Photos by Norma Hawthorne.)

That’s why when I heard that Secundino had another blanket on his loom I asked to buy it.  And, when I ran into Ester, his daughter, at the church on Good Friday she told me it was ready.  Then, she asked me if I wanted to come to her father’s house to take a photo of him and the rug.  The family became our unplanned for Day 7 photo shoot.  This was going to be our selecting and editing day for the entire week.  So we did it all!

  

(Above left: Jessica Santiago Guzman checking the camera settings.  Above right: Maria and Jesus, daughter and grandchild of Secundino and Rosa.  Both photos by Norma Hawthorne.)

We met Ester in front of Las Granadas B&B at eleven o’clock in the morning Teotitlan time (an hour difference from Oaxaca, which went on Daylight Savings last week — let the confusion begin).  Then, we commandeered two tuk-tuks (moto taxis) to take our group of six up the steep hill on the other side of town to Secundino’s humble home.

Portrait by Jessica Santiago Guzman

Two years ago, Secundino fell and broke his hip.  The family thought he would never be able to stand and weave again.  His recovery was one year long.  Now, he is able to weave in twenty-minute stretches, taking long rest breaks, for about four hours a day.  It takes him three or four months to weave a complete blanket.

Secundino's Loom by Richard Carter

I hope you agree with me that we have captured a tradition that is passing in Teotitlan del Valle, and in addition to taking glorious photos we have documented a weaving way of life that will become part of history.

Hands by Richard Carter

Thank you to instructor Matt Nager, and participants Richard Carter and Jessica Santiago Guzman for capturing these moments.  And, special thanks to the family of Secundino Bazan Mendoza for inviting us into their home and giving us the treasure of their time and patience and willingness to be photographed.

  

(Above left and center photos by Richard Carter.  Above right photo by Norma Hawthorne.)

Upcoming photography workshops give you more than photographic techniques.  They give you a cultural immersion experience.  Summer 2012 Market Towns and Artisan Villages.  October 2012 Day of the Dead.