Tag Archives: Oaxaca

Are You Safer in Mexico or America?

Should I travel to Mexico?  Is it safe?  What about Oaxaca?  Robert Reid, Lonely Planet’s US travel editor wrote a blog post on May 10, 2012 about safety in Mexico, offering six reasons why Mexico is safe.  The headline is Are You Safer in Mexico or America?  The Huffington Post picked it up and published it and our follower, Bruce Anderson sent the story my way.  Thanks, Bruce!

I’m going to start with Reid’s last two points, which are specific to Oaxaca.  I am constantly writing about safety here because one of the biggest myths circulating is that travel to Mexico is not safe and safety is one of the most popular search terms on my blog.  I am on a mission.  It is my number one pet peeve.  The traveling public needs to know that most tourist destinations in Mexico — and especially Oaxaca — are safe.

Help me spread the word by forwarding this to one friend who is skeptical! Here’s what Reid says . . .

5. Malia Obama ignored the Texas advice.

Of all people, President Obama and first lady said “OK” to their 13-year-old daughter’s spring break destination this year: Oaxaca. Then Republican presidential candidate Rick Santorum made snide remarks over that, perhaps overlooking that Oaxaca state has a smaller body count from the drug war than his home state’s murder rate (Oaxaca’s 4.39 per 100,000 to Pennsylvania’s 5.2).

Oaxaca state, not on the US travel warning, is famed for its colonial city, Zapotec ruins and emerging beach destinations like Huatulco. Lonely Planet author Greg Benchwick even tried grasshoppers with the local mezcal (Malia apparently stuck with vanilla shakes.)

So, can you go to Mexico?

Yes. As the US State Department says, “millions of US citizens safely visit Mexico each year.” Last year, when I took on the subject for CNN, one commenter suggested Lonely Planet was being paid to promote travel there. No we weren’t. We took on the subject simply because – as travelers so often know – there is another story beyond the perception back home, be it Vietnam welcoming Americans in the ’90s or Colombia’s dramatic safety improvements in the ’00s. And, equally as importantly, Mexico makes for some of the world’s greatest travel experiences – it’s honestly why I’m in this line of work.

So yes, you can go to Mexico, just as you can go to Texas, or New Orleans, or Orlando, or the Bahamas. It’s simply up to you to decide whether you want to.

Robert Reid is Lonely Planet’s US Travel Editor and has been going to Mexico since he was three (most recently to Chacala).

Shop Mexico: The Artisan Sisters

Welcome to our new online store — Shop Mexico: The Artisan Sisters. We are sisters in real life, Norma Hawthorne and Barbara Beerstein.  We are passionate collectors and supporters of artists and artisans who express the creativity and vitality of Oaxaca and Mexico.  Textiles and folk art are our passion.  Because of this, we fall in love with people and what they create along our journey.  For us, it is as much about the people we connect with than what we are buying. Invariably, we usually come home with much more than what we need.

Today we feature huipils + blusas from Oaxaca, Chiapas and Puebla!

This is to your advantage!  Our prices our reasonable.  We ship fast.  We have already made the purchase and paid the artist. We believe in compensating people fairly and immediately for the beauty they create.  We offer the best quality because that is what we expect for ourselves.

Each week, starting today, we will list a few select pieces for sale on this blog!  Look for the Artisan Sisters in your inbox.  

Week 1 — Shop Mexico: The Artisan Sisters.

#1_51412, Collector Quality Huipil, Las Margaritas, Chiapas, handwoven, $195

Detail, Las Margaritas textile

#1_51412:  This extraordinarily detailed huipil from the Mayan indigenous village of Las Margaritas, in the Los Altos (highlands) of Chiapas, is a finely woven piece of highest quality cotton cloth created on the backstrap loom.  The design is integrated and woven into weft of the cloth; it is not embroidered.  Size is ample and would fit U.S. size 14-18 comfortably.  It has three webs across the front and three webs across the back, each securely hand-embroidered together.  The huipil is 29″ wide across the front armpit to armpit and 30″ long from the shoulder seam.

Contact us first to make sure the item you want is still available.  We accept PayPal and will send you an invoice after we calculate packing and shipping costs.

#2_51412: Blusa, Cuetzalan, Puebla, hand-embroidered bodice, $175


Detail of Cuetzalan blusa, #2_51412

#2_51412: Cuetzalan is in the Sierra Norte of the State of Puebla, four hours from the city of Puebla high in the mountains. The Artisan Sisters traveled there by public long-distance bus.  The women there embroider intricate patterns of wildlife and flowers onto panels of cotton which become part of washable cotton blouses that are gently gathered across the chest.  This blusa is a stunning, intricate design, with finely finished inside seams.  The bodice stitches are really tiny.  Every inch of the bodice and sleeve fabric is covered in handwork.  Neckline and sleeves have lovely crocheted trim. Width armpit to armpit across the front is 25″.  Length from shoulder seam to hem is 30.”  Neckline opening is 13″ wide.

#3_51412: Blusa, San Vicente Coatlan, $85

 

 

Detail, blusa, San Vicente Coatlan

#3_51412:  This Blusa (blouse) from San Vicente Coatlan, is one of the most beautiful I have seen in Oaxaca.  It has lots of punto de cruz cross stitch patterning in multi-colors covering the entire bodice, extending out the shoulders, and trimming the sleeve edge.  The back collar is also embellished with fine detail. I don’t know how they do it.  The gathers are all done by hand, too.  This is a KNOCK-OUT.  Width from armpit to armpit across the front is 27″ wide.  Length from shoulder seam to hem is 34″ long.  Sleeves are 20″ long from the shoulder seam.  Embroidered panels sewn onto manta cotton (washable).

Taste Oaxaca: Shop, Cook, Eat

Immerse yourself in the food culture of Oaxaca during this 7-day, 6-night eating, cooking workshop-tour, January 23-29.  Oaxaca is known for her chocolate, mescal, organic maize (corn), fresh fruits and vegetables, abundant chiles, savory spices and family operated kitchens.  Superb meals are around every street corner and in fine dining establishments.  Hand to mouth.  Market basket to kitchen. Pan to plate.  We will explore it all.

Make this your perfect winter getaway!  Limited to 6 people.

 

Come with us to enjoy meals in fine-dining restaurants.  Sample some of the finest mezcal made in Oaxaca not available for export.  Taste humble street and market food from trusted vendors.  Participate in food shopping and tasting excursions to learn about local ingredients.  Roll up your sleeves and make three of Oaxaca’s famous seven moles with cooking classes from noted chefs and local indigenous cooks.

   

Cooking classes include a complete multi-course menu, from soup or salad through dessert. Your experienced cooking instructors have recorded traditional recipes passed down through the generations from mother to daughter.   You will receive complete recipes printed in English that you can adapt to available ingredients at home.

Taste Oaxaca is limited to 6 participants.

What Taste Oaxaca includes:

  • 3 cooking classes
  • 6 breakfasts
  • 5 dinners total
  • 4 lunches
  • Mescal tasting
  • Market excursions
  • 2 fine-dining dinners
  • Farewell fiesta dinner
  • Associated on-ground transportation
  
Preliminary Itinerary: Arrive January 23 , depart January 29

Day 1: Wednesday, January 23, arrive Oaxaca, overnight Oaxaca

Day 2: Thursday, January 24, market shopping and cooking class, afternoon on your own, fine-dining, overnight Oaxaca (B, L, D)

Day 3: Friday, January 25, eat Oaxaca style, explore organic market food stalls and bakery, mescal tasting reception and fine-dining, overnight Oaxaca (B, D)

Day 4: Saturday, January 26, on your own morning to explore with suggestions, meet for lunch at family operated comedor, travel to Teotitlan in late afternoon,  check into to B&B, supper in Teotitlan (B, L, D)

Day 5: Sunday, January 27,  Tlacolula market, lunch at local comedor or market stalls, return to B&B, afternoon cooking class followed by dinner (B, L, D)

Day 6: Monday, January 28, cooking class and lunch, free-time in afternoon, farewell dinner fiesta at local restaurant (B, L, D)

Day 7: Tuesday, January 29, depart after breakfast (B)

Taste Oaxaca with Norma Hawthorne, executive director of Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC.  Norma has organized this food shopping, cooking and eating experience based on her interest and background as former owner of a gourmet cookware shop, cooking school and catering business.  In addition, Norma taught classes in French, Mexican and Chinese cooking for ten years through Indiana University Division of Continuing Education.  She led Culinary Tour of France, taking participants to Paris and Lyon to meet, eat and cook with the great chefs Paul Bocuse, Georges Blanc and Alain Chapel.
 

Cost:  The base cost for the trip is $1,595.00 USD.  Most travel programs of this type and length cost more than twice as much!

It does NOT include airfare, taxes, admissions to museums and archeological sites, gratuities, travel insurance, liquor/alcoholic beverages, some meals and some transportation not included in the itinerary.

You may wish to come early or stay later. We are happy to make these arrangements for you.

  • Add-on early arrival in Oaxaca city:  $125 per night
  • Add-on stay later in Teotitlan del Valle:  $48 per night
  • Add-on stay later in Oaxaca city:  $125 per night

Lodging/Accommodations

In Oaxaca city, we will stay in a lovely upscale bed and breakfast featured in many travel articles and rated very highly.

In Teotitlan del Valle, we stay in a local bed and breakfast operated by three generations of women — grandmother, mother, daughter — all great cooks! The food is all handcrafted and delicious.  Vegetarian options are available.Village accommodations are clean and basic.  Shared baths are across the courtyard. (Bring flip-flops and flashlight.)

You will have the option of having a double room with shared bath (across the courtyard) for the base price of the trip.  Single supplement with shared bath (add $200).  Shared room with private bath (add $200).  Single room with private bath (add $300).  Please indicate your preference on the registration form.

 

Reservations,  and Cancellations

A 50% deposit ($800) is required to guarantee your spot.  The final payment for the balance due (including any supplemental costs) shall be postmarked by January 1, 2012.  We request Payment with PayPal.  We will be happy to send you an  invoice.

If cancellation is necessary, please notify us in writing by email.   After April 1, no refunds are possible; however, we will make every possible effort to fill your reserved space.  If you cancel before April 1, we will refund 50% of your deposit.  We strongly recommend that you take out trip cancellation, baggage, emergency evacuation and medical insurance before you begin your trip, since unforeseen circumstances are possible.

To register or for questions, contact:  oaxacaculture@me.com

This workshop is produced by Norma Hawthorne, Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC.  For more information, see: http://oaxacaculture.com

Cinco de Mayo and the Battle of Puebla

First of all, it’s important to know that today, Cinco de Mayo, is NOT Mexican Independence Day, which is September 16, 1810.

Nevertheless, it marks a significant date in history when the French army was defeated in Puebla on May 5, 1862, marking an important symbolic moment to curtail Napoleon Bonaparte’s designs on establishing a monarchy in North America.  When you visit Puebla you can still see the bullet holes in front of the house occupied by General Ignacio Zaragoza.

 

Most of us know Cinco de Mayo as a U.S. celebration of Latino culture.  There are 44.3 million Latinos living in the U.S. according to the 2008 census representing 15 percent of the population.

Perhaps we know Cinco de Mayo as the name of a favorite local Tex-Mex restaurant.  Isn’t there a Cinco de Mayo Mexican restaurant in your town?  There is in mine!  And today, many will of us will welcome the occasion to have a party and raise a toast to our southern neighbor with a beer or Margarita.  What are you doing tonight?

But there’s much more to it than that, according to historian David Hayes-Bautista, as reported today by CNN and Reza Gostar in GlendoraPatch.  It seems that Cinco de Mayo was a rallying cry in the U.S. by Latinos against the elitist French monarchy, which was sympathetic to the Confederacy during the Civil War.   At that time, Latinos sided with the Union, fearing that a Confederacy win would expand slavery to include them.

Puebla is Angelopolis, City of Angels

Dr. Hayes-Bautista, who is director of UCLA’s Center for the Study of Latino Health and Culture, has uncovered the first groundbreaking research that links the celebration of liberation for Mexicans with the U.S. Civil War and the hope that the Union would prevail.  The win at the Battle of Puebla by the Mexican freedom fighters against the elitists energized many Americans early in the war when the Confederacy was powerful, especially Latinos.

So, as you raise your glass with a hearty Salud, recall that Latinos volunteered to serve in the Union Army in order to preserve freedom, independence, and fight for racial justice.

 

 

http://glendora.patch.com/articles/history-of-cinco-de-mayo-a-mexican-or-american-holiday

Felted Fashion Workshop: Making Wearable Art Oaxaca Style with Wool, Silk and Cotton

For hands-on fun, escape winter and come to Oaxaca from February 4 to 11, 2013.  Together, during this one-week workshop residency, we will be immersed in the textile culture of Oaxaca to create naturally-dyed felted fabric combining wool, silk and cotton that can be hand or machine stitched into an indigenous clothing design of your choice.  Our experts, textile and fiber artist-clothing designer Jessica de Haas, from Vancouver, B.C., Canada and Eric Chavez Santiago from Oaxaca, Mexico, will show you how!

Jessica owns the clothing design company Funk-Shui and is an award-winning, internationally known fiber artist and teacher.  She recently completed an artist residency in Oaxaca, and taught and exhibited at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca.  See her website for bio and designs.

Eric Chavez Santiago, founding director of education at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca, is a weaver and natural dye expert.  He has taught natural dyeing techniques  in Oaxaca and at  U.S. universities and museums since 2006.

First, working with Eric in his family’s home studio in Teotitlan del Valle, we will dye and over-dye wool roving with natural materials:  cochineal, indigo, wild marigold, pomegranates and other plants to achieve the colors you will use in your piece(s).  We will learn about mordant processes to fix the dye and dye extraction to create over 10 different colors.  Dye recipes are included!

Then, working with Jessica in the courtyard of our B&B, we will felt our naturally dyed wool fiber on silk or loosely woven cotton or muslin, making a durable and beautiful fabric.  After your fabric is dry, you will have the option to cut and sew it into one of several indigenous Oaxaca styles:  the huipil (tunic), the blusa (blouse), rebozo (shawl), boufanda (scarf) or quechequemitl (cape).  Here is a piece from Jessica’s collection that you might like!

We give you a pattern book to choose your design! Below is a sample pattern for a quechquemitl.

This workshop is for all levels of experience!  You do not have to be an artist to attend.  We welcome beginners who have never worked in hand felting and more advanced fiber artists. This is a perfect residency for students, teachers and artists who may want to explore a different medium, too.

We will provide you with patterns for the basic indigenous designs that can be adjusted to fit.  If you want to contemporize them, we can help you tweak and make minor adjustments. If you have sewing or pattern drafting experience and want to experiment on your own, you are welcome to work on an independent design project after your fabric is made.

We will be based in the weaving village of Teotitlan del Valle where for generations families have been creating wool textiles.  During our time together, we will go on local field trips to meet and talk with weavers who work with natural dyes and weave fabric for wearable art as well as sturdier floor and wall tapestries.  We will see examples of the types of garments that can be created from the felted fabric we make.

Participant materials to bring (preliminary):

  • wool roving—either merino or corriedale, 2 lbs. or 1 kg. minimum
  • silk, cotton, and/or muslin—3-4 meters (4.37 yards) minimum
  • beads, sequins, buttons, ribbons, embroidery thread and other embellishments

Note: The materials listed are sufficient to make one garment. If you wish to prepare more than one piece of dyed felted fabric, you are welcome to bring more materials.  However, it is likely you will only be able to complete one finished piece during the time allotted.

Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC will provide, included in your registration fee:

  • all instruction
  • 7 nights lodging
  • 7 breakfasts
  • 7 dinners
  • all dye materials
  • pattern booklet
  • dye recipes
  • sewing machine to share, needles, thread

Workshop is limited to 8 participants 

Daily Workshop Schedule:

Arrive Saturday, February 4, Depart Sunday, February 11 — 7 nights, 8 days

  • Day 1, Saturday, February 4, arrive and settle into your bed and breakfast posada in Teotitlan del Valle (we send directions)
  • Day 2, Sunday, February 5, natural dye workshop to prepare wool roving
  • Days 3-5, Monday-Wednesday, February 6-8, make the felted fabric on silk, cotton or muslin
  • Days 6-7, Thursday-Friday, February 9-10, create your pattern, sew and embellish the garment
  • Day 7, Friday, February 10, evening fashion show and reception
  • Day 8, Saturday, February 11, depart
(Preliminary daily schedule subject to modification.  Start and end dates will not change.)

 

Workshop Fee:  $1,365 per person shared room and bath, double occupancy. Single occupancy with private bath, add $300.  Most travel programs of this type and length cost more than twice as much!

Optional Add-ons: 

Option 1:  Arrive a day early, on Friday, February 3, and take a Zapotec cooking class on Saturday, February 4 with Reyna Mendoza Ruiz.  Includes one night lodging, breakfast, lunch, cooking class and recipes.  $110 USD each.

Option 2:  Day 8-10, Saturday-Monday, February 11-13.  Add-on two more nights and visit fly-shuttle manta cotton cloth weaving studios and archeological site on Saturday in San Pablo Villa de Mitla along with a mezcal tasting at a boutique mezcaleria in Matatlan.  On Sunday, visit the Tlacolula regional tianguis market to see handcrafted aprons and rebozos.  $245 USD each (lunch on your own; includes two breakfasts and dinners, transportation and guided visits).  Depart Monday, February 13.

About Our Workshops, Retreats and Programs.  We offer educational programs that are hands-on, fun, culturally sensitive, and offer you an immersion experience.   Our workshop leaders are experts in their field, knowledgeable, have teaching experience and guide you in the learning process.  Our goal is to enhance your knowledge while giving you time to explore and discover.

About Lodging and Accommodations. To keep this trip affordable and accessible, we stay in a local posada operated by three generations of women — grandmother, mother, daughter — all great cooks! The food is all housemade (including the tortillas), safe to eat and delicious.  Vegetarian options are available.

Accommodations are clean and basic.  Shared baths are across the courtyard. (Bring flip-flops and flashlight.)   The base price of the trip includes shared room and bath; single supplement with private bath is available (add $300).   Please indicate your preference.

Your registration fee does NOT include airfare, taxes, admissions to museums and archeological sites, gratuities, travel insurance, liquor/alcoholic beverages, some meals and some transportation.

Deposits, Reservations and Cancellations.  A 50% deposit ($683) is required to guarantee your spot.  The final payment for the balance due (including any supplemental costs) shall be paid by December 15, 2012.  We prefer Payment with PayPal.  We will be happy to send you an invoice.

If cancellation is necessary, please notify us in writing by email.   After December 15, 2012, no refunds are possible; however, we will make every possible effort to fill your reserved space.  Your registration is transferable to a substitute.  If you cancel before December 15, we will refund 50% of your deposit.  We strongly recommend that you take out trip cancellation, baggage, emergency evacuation and medical insurance before you begin your trip, since unforeseen circumstances are possible.

To register or for questions, contact:  normahawthorne@mac.com  I am happy to set up a Skype call with you, too.  Skype name:  Oaxacaculture