Who could ask for more? We are in Tlaxcala (Tuh-las-cah-lah), the first city Cortes came to after landing in Veracruz. The oldest churches in the New World are here. The compact zocalo is ringed with 16th century buildings decorated with frilly stucco and carved stone. The town of 73,000, tucked into a hillside, is one hour from Puebla and about three hours from Mexico City. It is elegant, prosperous and refined with excellent restaurants and pedestrian ambience.
After eating a noteworthy late breakfast/early lunch of conejo con huitlacoche (rabbit and corn fungus) and enchiladas de Tlaxcalteco con flor de calabasas (squash blossoms) at Fonda de Exconvento on Plaza Xicotencatl, we decided on the spot to visit the archeological sites of Cacaxtla (Cah-cas-tlah) and Xochitecatl (So-chee-teh-cachl). The manager at Fonda de Exconvento was extremely helpful. After I asked her what we should pay a taxi to drive us to the ruins, she made a call, got us a secure driver and negotiated a price of 350 pesos for the afternoon (four hours). We were thrilled! Muy facile. Thank you for visiting our country, she said.
Cacaxtla and sister site, Xochitecatl, were inhabited by the Olmec-Xicalancas, who wielded political and economic control over the central, southern, and western parts of the Puebla-Tlaxcala Valley. They occupied a strategic position on the trade route between the Central Highlands of Mexico and the Gulf Coast. Cacaxtla reached its zenith between 650 and 900 AD following the decline of Teotihuacan, at the same time that other cities, such as El Tajin in Veracruz and Xochicalco in Morelos, consolidated their power.
The mural paintings here are distinctive for blending Teotithuacan and Maya elements into its own unique style. The murals, many in pristine condition and painted with natural pigments, were discovered in the 1970′s. They depict a battle, a bird man, a jaguar man, and sea and land creatures. The site is less than an hour from Tlaxcala and incredible.
Templo de Venus: These figures, above, are female (left) and male (right) figures wearing skirts with the Venus symbol. The presence of Venus on the garments allude to some astronomical phenomenon or calendrical date associated with the planet, which at that time was related to warfare and sacrifice.
Go during mid-week, as we did, to enjoy the solitude, the power of the wind, and the stunning views of Mexico’s volcanoes: Popocatepetl, La Malinche, Iztaccíhuatl, and Pico de Orizaba.
Xochitecatl is distinguished by four pyramids and when you reach the top of the plateau where they are located, you are treated with a panoramic, three-hundred-and-sixty-degree view of the valley. This is the lesser of the two sites in terms of archeological restoration. There are about a dozen Olmec carved figures on display in an outside garden.
Great Dining Experience: Vinos y Piedra on the Zocalo. Try the Cafecita, a filet mignon topped with a carmelized coffee sauce. This is cowboy country with large haciendas and cattle ranches. The beef here is tender and juicy!
Travel Tip: Go to the Tourism Office first to get a map. They are very helpful there and speak English. Bullfight season is November through the first weekend in March. We just missed it!
Our route to Tlaxcala: In Cuetzalan, we bought a one-way bus ticket (116 pesos each) to Huamantla on the Texcoco bus line (first class with TV and toilet). This was a 3-1/2 hour trip. In Huamantla, we walked two blocks towing our rolling luggage and backpacks to a collectivo bus stop, where, within minutes, a commuter van picked us up for the 45-minute trip to Tlaxcala (about 25 pesos each). It dropped us off at the central market, where we walked around a corner and hopped a taxi (30 pesos) to our Hotel Mision San Francisco on the zocalo.
Taste Oaxaca: Shop, Cook, Eat
Immerse yourself in the food culture of Oaxaca during this 7-day, 6-night eating, cooking workshop-tour, January 23-29. Oaxaca is known for her chocolate, mescal, organic maize (corn), fresh fruits and vegetables, abundant chiles, savory spices and family operated kitchens. Superb meals are around every street corner and in fine dining establishments. Hand to mouth. Market basket to kitchen. Pan to plate. We will explore it all.
Make this your perfect winter getaway! Limited to 6 people.
Come with us to enjoy meals in fine-dining restaurants. Sample some of the finest mezcal made in Oaxaca not available for export. Taste humble street and market food from trusted vendors. Participate in food shopping and tasting excursions to learn about local ingredients. Roll up your sleeves and make three of Oaxaca’s famous seven moles with cooking classes from noted chefs and local indigenous cooks.
Cooking classes include a complete multi-course menu, from soup or salad through dessert. Your experienced cooking instructors have recorded traditional recipes passed down through the generations from mother to daughter. You will receive complete recipes printed in English that you can adapt to available ingredients at home.
Taste Oaxaca is limited to 6 participants.
What Taste Oaxaca includes:
Day 1: Wednesday, January 23, arrive Oaxaca, overnight Oaxaca
Day 2: Thursday, January 24, market shopping and cooking class, afternoon on your own, fine-dining, overnight Oaxaca (B, L, D)
Day 3: Friday, January 25, eat Oaxaca style, explore organic market food stalls and bakery, mescal tasting reception and fine-dining, overnight Oaxaca (B, D)
Day 4: Saturday, January 26, on your own morning to explore with suggestions, meet for lunch at family operated comedor, travel to Teotitlan in late afternoon, check into to B&B, supper in Teotitlan (B, L, D)
Day 5: Sunday, January 27, Tlacolula market, lunch at local comedor or market stalls, return to B&B, afternoon cooking class followed by dinner (B, L, D)
Day 6: Monday, January 28, cooking class and lunch, free-time in afternoon, farewell dinner fiesta at local restaurant (B, L, D)
Day 7: Tuesday, January 29, depart after breakfast (B)
Cost: The base cost for the trip is $1,595.00 USD. Most travel programs of this type and length cost more than twice as much!
It does NOT include airfare, taxes, admissions to museums and archeological sites, gratuities, travel insurance, liquor/alcoholic beverages, some meals and some transportation not included in the itinerary.
You may wish to come early or stay later. We are happy to make these arrangements for you.
Lodging/Accommodations
In Oaxaca city, we will stay in a lovely upscale bed and breakfast featured in many travel articles and rated very highly.
In Teotitlan del Valle, we stay in a local bed and breakfast operated by three generations of women — grandmother, mother, daughter — all great cooks! The food is all handcrafted and delicious. Vegetarian options are available.Village accommodations are clean and basic. Shared baths are across the courtyard. (Bring flip-flops and flashlight.)
You will have the option of having a double room with shared bath (across the courtyard) for the base price of the trip. Single supplement with shared bath (add $200). Shared room with private bath (add $200). Single room with private bath (add $300). Please indicate your preference on the registration form.
Reservations, and Cancellations
A 50% deposit ($800) is required to guarantee your spot. The final payment for the balance due (including any supplemental costs) shall be postmarked by January 1, 2012. We request Payment with PayPal. We will be happy to send you an invoice.
If cancellation is necessary, please notify us in writing by email. After April 1, no refunds are possible; however, we will make every possible effort to fill your reserved space. If you cancel before April 1, we will refund 50% of your deposit. We strongly recommend that you take out trip cancellation, baggage, emergency evacuation and medical insurance before you begin your trip, since unforeseen circumstances are possible.
To register or for questions, contact: oaxacaculture@me.com
This workshop is produced by Norma Hawthorne, Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC. For more information, see: http://oaxacaculture.com
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Posted in Cultural Commentary, Dining and Lodging, Food & Recipes, Oaxaca Mexico art and culture, Oaxaca travel, Travel & Tourism, Workshops and Retreats
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