Tag Archives: travel

Through the Lens: Photographic Textures of Oaxaca

Our 2012 Oaxaca Photography Workshop: Market Towns and Artisan Villages officially begins tomorrow morning.  Many of our participants arrived in Teotitlan del Valle, our “base camp,” a day early to wander the village, get their bearings and settle in.  We are at 6,000 feet altitude, which means some getting used to.   The weather is mild and sunny, a lovely 82 degrees and perfect for photography.

First: a couple of shots in Oaxaca, at the new Museo Textil de Oaxaca shop now operated by Los Baules owner and curator Remigio Mestas.

Indigenous clothing is artfully displayed in and on antique furniture.  See the handwoven fish traps from the coast of Oaxaca?

 

An amazing, intricately woven silk huipil (wee-peel) with natural dyes created by maestra Francisca Palafox from San Mateo del Mar.

It costs more money than you can imagine!

The colors of Mexico from a rooftop:  Red, Green, White.

And below, textural impressions of Teotitlan del Valle, literal and figurative.

 

                   

Our next photography workshop is Day of the Dead Expedition, October 28-November 4 in Oaxaca.

 

 

 

Travel Luggage: Weight Counts or Ode to An Aging Suitcase

Struggling to pack and getting under the 50-pound weight limit is a challenge for me. Why, you might ask?  She is is supposed to be practicing the meditation of “traveling light.”  I haul back and forth to/from Mexico a six-plus pound projector, a weighty camera lens, usually a tripod, paperwork, a couple of pairs of shoes.  I think my make-up and sundries bag weighs eight pounds.  This is all packed within a woven bamboo basket with sturdy sides that I use for added protection.  This requires an elephant-size suitcase.   After almost 20 years of trusty service (bought it in 1993 for a trip to China), my 21-pound TravelPro suitcase is about to be retired because with that inherent weight, this leaves me little more than a few pounds of clothing to add.  

It wasn’t THAT long ago that international travelers had a 70-pound weight limit.  No more as airlines try to squeeze every dollar out of the travel experience which has become a nightmare unless you are a top-level member of some affinity program. The Huffington Post just announced that United Airlines has raised the fee for a second piece of baggage on international flights to $100 and did away with the online discount.  I can’t imagine what they will think of next.

Despite the broken handle, this trusty friend has been to Thailand, Australia, France, Italy, Panama, Guatemala, Belize, Mexico, the Caribbean, Malaysia, Singapore and back, plus frequent family visits to California.  It has been my shipping container for many treasures, including Federico Chavez Sosa‘s glorious rugs which are not of insignificant weight.

  

 

 

So, I began my quest for a replacement, found the site LuggagetoGo.com and ordered a TravelPro replacement with the latest lighter weight technology, only to hear the next day from Don that it was backordered and was not available to ship.  I asked Don, who  was immediately responsive, if there was a comparable.  Yes, he said, Delsey will ship from Maryland on Monday afternoon and you’ll get the luggage (weighing in at 12.6 lbs.) on Tuesday.  Perfect.  In time to pack on Wednesday and leave for Mexico early Thursday morning.  The bonus was that the online price of the luggage was $169.99, a big discount from the $400 retail price and shipping was included.  I had such a great, personal, customer service online shopping experience with this site that I want to recommend it.  I’m happy.

So, I’m hoping for no glitches.  The bonus is that with a really big suitcase, I’m hoping to get everything I need into it to avoid the second bag fee!  Yes, I can do it.

 

 

 

Are You Safer in Mexico or America?

Should I travel to Mexico?  Is it safe?  What about Oaxaca?  Robert Reid, Lonely Planet’s US travel editor wrote a blog post on May 10, 2012 about safety in Mexico, offering six reasons why Mexico is safe.  The headline is Are You Safer in Mexico or America?  The Huffington Post picked it up and published it and our follower, Bruce Anderson sent the story my way.  Thanks, Bruce!

I’m going to start with Reid’s last two points, which are specific to Oaxaca.  I am constantly writing about safety here because one of the biggest myths circulating is that travel to Mexico is not safe and safety is one of the most popular search terms on my blog.  I am on a mission.  It is my number one pet peeve.  The traveling public needs to know that most tourist destinations in Mexico — and especially Oaxaca — are safe.

Help me spread the word by forwarding this to one friend who is skeptical! Here’s what Reid says . . .

5. Malia Obama ignored the Texas advice.

Of all people, President Obama and first lady said “OK” to their 13-year-old daughter’s spring break destination this year: Oaxaca. Then Republican presidential candidate Rick Santorum made snide remarks over that, perhaps overlooking that Oaxaca state has a smaller body count from the drug war than his home state’s murder rate (Oaxaca’s 4.39 per 100,000 to Pennsylvania’s 5.2).

Oaxaca state, not on the US travel warning, is famed for its colonial city, Zapotec ruins and emerging beach destinations like Huatulco. Lonely Planet author Greg Benchwick even tried grasshoppers with the local mezcal (Malia apparently stuck with vanilla shakes.)

So, can you go to Mexico?

Yes. As the US State Department says, “millions of US citizens safely visit Mexico each year.” Last year, when I took on the subject for CNN, one commenter suggested Lonely Planet was being paid to promote travel there. No we weren’t. We took on the subject simply because – as travelers so often know – there is another story beyond the perception back home, be it Vietnam welcoming Americans in the ’90s or Colombia’s dramatic safety improvements in the ’00s. And, equally as importantly, Mexico makes for some of the world’s greatest travel experiences – it’s honestly why I’m in this line of work.

So yes, you can go to Mexico, just as you can go to Texas, or New Orleans, or Orlando, or the Bahamas. It’s simply up to you to decide whether you want to.

Robert Reid is Lonely Planet’s US Travel Editor and has been going to Mexico since he was three (most recently to Chacala).

Photography Portrait of An Aging Weaver: Keeping the Traditions

Secundino Bazan Mendoza is eighty-five years old.  He is the subject of today’s Oaxaca, Mexico portrait photography session along with his wife Rosa Rosa Bazan and adult daughter Ester.  This was pure serendipity.

Portrait of Rosa, Secundino and Ester by Norma Hawthorne

Secundino is a weaver of traditional blankets and serapes.  He shears the local sheep raised in Teotitlan del Valle, preferring them to those raised in the highlands because the fleece is thinner and softer.  He cards and then washes the wool in the stream that runs through town, rubbing it against the river rocks to soften it even more.  Then he spins it himself and weaves it.  The wool is undyed and Secundino weaves a traditional early Zapotec design that is not used much today.

 

(Portraits of Secundino by Norma Hawthorne in natural light with reflector.)

When U.S. importers came to Teotitlan del Valle in the 1960′s and 70′s, they found great weavers like Secundino who were making horse blankets, serapes and ponchos.  The importers wanted to meet the marketplace home decor demand for  Santa Fe Style.  They asked the weavers to make floor rugs and employ Navajo designs.  The village became even more well known and prosperous.  Over the years, many local families began exporting their own rugs, working with dealers in the U.S., and becoming entrepreneurs in their own right.

Lifelong Partners by Jessica Santiago Guzman

Secundino Bazan Mendoza never changed.  He kept weaving the blankets and serapes using undyed natural wool.  He would weave two mirror pieces on his one small loom and stitch them up the center the way it was done a hundred years ago.  The way his father and grandfather taught him.  He may be the only one in the village still doing it this way.  He can complete two or three blankets a year now.

 

(Above:  Rosa and Secundino in front of Norma’s blanket.  Photos by Norma Hawthorne.)

That’s why when I heard that Secundino had another blanket on his loom I asked to buy it.  And, when I ran into Ester, his daughter, at the church on Good Friday she told me it was ready.  Then, she asked me if I wanted to come to her father’s house to take a photo of him and the rug.  The family became our unplanned for Day 7 photo shoot.  This was going to be our selecting and editing day for the entire week.  So we did it all!

  

(Above left: Jessica Santiago Guzman checking the camera settings.  Above right: Maria and Jesus, daughter and grandchild of Secundino and Rosa.  Both photos by Norma Hawthorne.)

We met Ester in front of Las Granadas B&B at eleven o’clock in the morning Teotitlan time (an hour difference from Oaxaca, which went on Daylight Savings last week — let the confusion begin).  Then, we commandeered two tuk-tuks (moto taxis) to take our group of six up the steep hill on the other side of town to Secundino’s humble home.

Portrait by Jessica Santiago Guzman

Two years ago, Secundino fell and broke his hip.  The family thought he would never be able to stand and weave again.  His recovery was one year long.  Now, he is able to weave in twenty-minute stretches, taking long rest breaks, for about four hours a day.  It takes him three or four months to weave a complete blanket.

Secundino's Loom by Richard Carter

I hope you agree with me that we have captured a tradition that is passing in Teotitlan del Valle, and in addition to taking glorious photos we have documented a weaving way of life that will become part of history.

Hands by Richard Carter

Thank you to instructor Matt Nager, and participants Richard Carter and Jessica Santiago Guzman for capturing these moments.  And, special thanks to the family of Secundino Bazan Mendoza for inviting us into their home and giving us the treasure of their time and patience and willingness to be photographed.

  

(Above left and center photos by Richard Carter.  Above right photo by Norma Hawthorne.)

Upcoming photography workshops give you more than photographic techniques.  They give you a cultural immersion experience.  Summer 2012 Market Towns and Artisan Villages.  October 2012 Day of the Dead.

 

 

 

Oaxaca Hosts Malia Obama, U.S. President’s Daughter

Oaxaca Times reports that Malia Obama, 13-year old daughter of U.S. President Barak Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama is in Oaxaca, Mexico, this weekend!

She arrived on a commercial United Airlines jet direct to Oaxaca from Houston, and will visit archeological sites and craft villages.  Even with 25 Secret Service Agents at her disposal, she would not be here if it weren’t safe.

I’m heading out to the Tlacolula market today.  Not likely she will be there, since it would be difficult to maintain security among the throngs of shoppers, but who knows?

Thanks to follower Elliot Stoller for alerting me!