Natural dyes have been used since the beginning of organized society, developed so humans could paint their bodies, clothes, houses, weapons and religious icons. The colors were obtained fro plants, animals, fruits and earth. In Mexico, they include indigo, cochineal (the bug parasite of the prickly pear cactus leaf), moss, nut shells and leaves, wild flowers, tree bark, and even a sea snail that emits a deep purple ink. Natural dyes are scarce, higher priced, and require a monch longer, more complex process to produce.
For example, to make red using cochineal requires one day to grind the grain of the cochineal bug (cultivated on the cactus for three months), one day to prepare the wool, one day to mordant the wool, and one day to dye the wool. This does not factor in the three-to-six months of time required to “grow” the bug on the cactus.
To produce a synthetic red dye takes one day. Color variation and intensity is controlled by adding more dye to the solution. It is not the complex chemistry that is involved in the natural dyeing process.
My friend Eric Chavez Santiago, director of education at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca, says that he has experimented with formulas using cochineal and a variety of acids and bases, including ash and lime juice. ”I’ve been able to document over 100 different colors using cochineal, shades ranging from pink to red to purple to orange.” With a synthetic dye, one flat, consistent shade is standard.
Intensity and Brilliance
Natural dye color variation and brillance is achieved by mixing different mordants with one batch of skeins, manipulating the PH of the dye baths, investing hours of time for one color. Colors obtained from natural sources tend to be earthy and subtle. Synthetic dyes often produce garish, stark or muddy colors. Wool rugs prepared with natural dyes are colorfast and will last a lifetime. Colorfastness can be tested by rubbing the surface of the weaving (if the weaver lets you) with a damp cloth. If the dye does not transfer, there is a good chance that the color is permanent.
The Price Difference
Natural dye materials are scarce and expensive, for example, cochineal is more costly per ounce than gold. Synthetic dyes are readily available at low cost, resulting in a less costly rug to produce. Density of weave also adds to quality and therefore to cost. A low cost rug will likely be woven with synthetic dyes, on brittle, machine (not hand-spun) wool, and have a looser weave.
We encourage you to be informed, know your rug weaver, and ask to see the dye pots (not just a demonstration of lime juice squeezed into the palm to dilute a few grains of cochineal). Know before you buy.
I learned to weave in San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato many years ago.
We didn’t use natural dyes, but fiber reactive ones. Cochineal has always been expensive. I have been thinking of experimenting with other natural sources like hibiscuss (jamaica) for reds, onions and coffe for browns and annato seeds for red- oranges tones as environmental friendly alternatives. I would apreciate your coments.
Dear Marines, cochineal continues to be very expensive. That is why the wool rugs dyed with cochineal are more costly and not many weavers use it, as you know so well. I have not heard of using hibiscus or annato seeds but I have myself used coffee and onion skins for the dye bath with some success. I will ask Eric Chavez Santiago the director of education at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca if he has heard of using these natural materials for dyeing. If you wish, you can write to him directly at educacion@museotextildeoaxaca.com.mx Do you use wool or cotton as your weaving material? Are you using a backstrap or floor loom? We are interested in your process. Keep us informed. Saludos, Norma