La Llorona is a song of woman’s pain, abandonment, and suffering. It is also sometimes identified with La Malinche, the Nahua woman who was sold into slavery as a child, learned the languages of her captors, and served as Cortés’ interpreter. Some say she betrayed Mexico to the Spanish conquistadors. In this context, the tale compares the Spanish invasion of Mexico and the demise of indigenous culture after the conquest with La Llorona’s loss.
Posted in Oaxaca Mexico art and culture
As soon as I heard that Lila Downs was performing in Oaxaca, I ordered two (muy facile), never imagining that I would end up in front row on the rail right next to the stage. Que milagro! Though my bags were checked at the gate, I managed to smuggle in my camera. All the signs said no cameras allowed. 
Fortunately, la prensa (the press) were seated right next to us with mega lenses in hand and I was able to easily blend in. Que milagro! Lila is an incredible performer and vocalist. She is also socially responsible and committed to her Oaxaca and Mixteca origins. It was a wonderful concert. The entire Guelaguetza stadium was packed and the energy was electric.
Color strobe lights changed the atmosphere from yellow and red to blue and green and all hues in between. A “smoke” machine created stage mystery. Lila added shawls, a hat, and a Tito Mendoza woven tapestry poncho to her repertoire as she interpreted each song.
She really knows how to connect with Oaxaca and her people. I took over 450 photos and wore down my battery. A photo extravanganza for sure.
The audience was enthralled. There are many foreigners in the city now to enjoy Dias de los Muertos. The stands were sprinkled with extranjeros. And the band played on!
Even with my long lens the environment was challenging. Her white dress. Constantly changing colors and movement. Being a novice shooter. I didn’t have my tripod and camera shake without it is predictable. Even though I balanced the camera on the rail to provide stability, you can see that many of my shots are imperfect. I was just grateful to be this close and personal.
Posted in Music, Oaxaca Mexico art and culture, Photography, Travel & Tourism
Tagged blogsherpa, concert, Lila Downs, Mexico, music, night photography, Oaxaca
A day in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, is not complete without a walk in the country. Today was one of those glorious days with a bit of overcast and briskness in the air. A perfect day for exploring the campo. We are surrounded here by 9,000 ft. to 12,000 ft. peaks, rich agricultural land and abundant water stored in the reservoir just above the village. Farmers are turning over the earth and preparing for early spring planting. Flowering trees are in bloom everywhere. It is hard to imagine it is nearly Thanksgiving!
Along the ridge road I got a great view of the village church and then zoomed in closer for a more detailed shot.
After seven intensive workshop days it felt good to stretch and walk for miles. The yellow wildflowers amid dried cornstalks caught my eye. I stopped in at my friend Annie’s for a shiatsu massage and hiked down to the river bed that feeds farmers fields throughout the village.
Just as I was wondering how I was going to cross this rushing stream, I found the footpath of flat stones in the stream bed. I carefully picked my way across careful not to lose my balance. No wet camera in my future!
Fieldstones separate one farmer’s plot from another. I looked up to see the sacred mountain Picacho where Zapotecs have a shrine at the peak.
A well by the river gives farmers back-up to water their animals.
Adornment on the back side of a house along the riverside. Sculpture, don’t you think? And as I was trying to figure out where this path would take me (my destination was up the other side of the hill to the main road), I came across this sign — used to darken the room but definitely a roadmap for me.
Thanksgiving, anyone? These are not domesticated turkeys though. They are indigenous poultry called guacalotes. These two got their feathers ruffled as I passed and squawked some, too. I definitely disturbed their afternoon siesta. The great news is that I discovered a new path with easy to navigate, switch back concrete stairs half-way up the hillside.
This side of the river, along upper Av. Juarez, is more populated with houses spilling down the hillside from the main street. Behind this blue gate will be a patio and magnificent views. You would never know it from the street side.
In the distance, I could see the next town of Macuilxochitl and the distinctive outline of its church.
Steep, narrow alleys lead from the main road to houses built into the hills above.
By then, it was just after 4 p.m. and I hadn’t eaten since breakfast. Thankfully, Restaurante El Descanso was open (until 6 p.m. unless there is a family celebration). Mari was carrying out dinner to her husband Fidel. It looked so good that I ordered the same. It isn’t on the menu so you have to say, I’d like a platillo de Fidel! Incredibly delicious. With beverage, my bill came to under 100 pesos.
On the way back to Las Granadas B&B, I stopped to admire a neighborhood altar before starting to pack and move to friends in the village for the next several days.
You should know I traveled solo and made my way through the countryside safely, passing people who greeted me and I them with a buenos tardes, a smile and a nod of the head. Most of Mexico is very safe, as safe as the place where you live — perhaps more so!
Comments Off on A Walk in the Campo–Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca Countryside
Posted in Cultural Commentary, Oaxaca Mexico art and culture, Photography, Travel & Tourism
Tagged afety, blogsherpa, guacalote, Mexico, Oaxaca, photography, Teotitlan del Valle, walking trails
Every good party in Oaxaca starts with Coronitas and mescal. Our final celebration and photography show for our Best of Week shots was no different! We invited our host families to the event, and Josefina and her family prepared a delicious buffet meal.
Taurino, Eloisa’s husband and Josefina’s son-in-law, staffed the bar, Eloisa was the designated babysitter for Lilly, and the guests began to arrive by 7 p.m. The buffet dinner included taquitos con pollo with guacamole, black beans, salsa verde, cole slaw, and fresh fruit skewers — pineapple, watermelon, papaya and cantaloupe. The steamed veggies — a medley of
carrots, green beans, and broccoli — were perfectly cooked and could easily be finger food. A big pitcher of fresh brewed hibiscus flower juice offered a non-alcoholic alternative. I was glad to have the time to take these food photos because during the week we were either so busy or too ravenous to take pictures of the delicious food we ate along the way.
Plus, for me having just discovered the delights of night photography using a tripod, I took the opportunity this evening to capture the ambience of our culminating evening event.
We each presented 10-20 of our best photos of the week that included streets scenes in Oaxaca city, night at the Xoxocotlan cemetery, the weaving and natural dye demonstration with Federico Chavez Sosa in Teotitlan del Valle, and the experience of being with a host family in the village for Day of the Dead and going with them to the cemetery as part of the family. The presentation was extraordinary. I will be publishing some of these photos later.
After all the guests had left, we gathered on the rooftop patio for a final toast (and several more) to a great week together. This was our view!
Participant Summaries of the Workshop:
DOTD 2011 Photography Expedition Group
Comments Off on Day of the Dead 2011 Photography Workshop: Best of Week Fiesta
Posted in Oaxaca Mexico art and culture, Photography, Teotitlan del Valle, Travel & Tourism
Tagged blogsherpa, class, expedition, journey, Mexico, Oaxaca, photography, workshop
Norma contributes personal essay, How Oaxaca Became Home
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Day of the Dead Oaxaca Photo-Video Says It All
On our Day of the Dead Photography Expedition 2011, we had the pleasure of Nick Eckert’s company, good humor, photographic expertise complete with technical geekdom, and enthusiasm for the art and craft of photography. Nick is in Mexico City now for a walking photo tour but found the time to put this beautiful YouTube video together with perfect musical accompaniment from Bob Dylan, “Knockin’ on Heavens Door.”
Here you will experience the magic and mystery of Day of the Dead as celebrated in Xoxocotlan, Oaxaca, Mexico! Enjoy, compliments of Nick.
Join the waiting list for our 2012 Day of the Dead Expedition. Send me an email: oaxacaculture@me.com
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Posted in Cultural Commentary, Music, Photography, Travel & Tourism, Workshops and Retreats
Tagged blogsherpa, day of the dead, Mexico, Oaxaca, photography, video