From Mexico City it’s a six-hour ADO bus ride (and four movies) to Oaxaca. The contrast between the two cities, one a megalopolis, the other a calmer haven of color and clear skies, is dramatic. My favorite Oaxaca touchstone is the “behind the scenes” view of Santo Domingo Church from the corner of Av. 5 de Mayo and Abasolo, and the cantera stones in shades of green, pink and brown cut from the rock beneath Oaxaca’s surface. I could feel my heart rate plunge upon re-entry. Deep breath. I am home, again.
I feel reassurance that I am where I belong by retracing a path along my favorite routes, from 5 de Mayo, across Abasolo, turn left down pedestrian Macedeonio Alcala, toward the Zocalo. The stroll is soothing. Here I take a seat and watch the people, a favorite past-time.
After Rosie prepared an omelet breakfast stuffed with smashed plantains at El Diablo y la Sandia, I took a walk along Murguia toward the historic center. I noticed this banana tree with a cluster of yet-to-ripen fruit dangling, tribute to Oaxaca’s tropical climate. At the corner of Benito Juarez was a new mural, just in time for Dia de los Muertos. Just beyond, a woman balancing a full basket on her head. How does she do it without dropping anything?
On this day Trique people, families and representatives from the Mixteca Baja, gathered in solidarity to advocate for human rights, better education and health care, and improved government services to bring them out of poverty. Public assembly is part of Mexican culture and political history, a tradition of public and peaceful expression of yearnings for a better way of life.
By the end of the day, the Triqui demonstrators climbed into the back of pick-up trucks and headed home. Collectivos were packed with workers returning to their villages, one even taking the last spot on the rear bumper.
Street vendors still had a few more things to sell, however. And the street cleaner took time out to make an important phone call, I’m sure.
Today, I’m in Teotitlan del Valle for a few days before returning to the city to start our Day of the Dead Photography Expedition. The sun is filtering into the cool, shaded patio. I am surrounded by the sounds of ranchera music, the beat of looms, and hanging wool that has just been dyed with wild marigold. All is well with the world.
Oaxaca Healthcare: Free for the People
From personal experience I can tell you that tapping into the public health care system is low cost and easy if you are living or visiting in Oaxaca. This morning I presented myself at the Centro de Salud in Teotitlan del Valle with symptoms that I had pretty much determined via internet research were the cause of shingles. I am not going to share photos with you! And, this is not what I had intended to write about today, but here goes!
The clinic is a clean and modern building staffed with nurses and medical specialists, including gynecologists, pediatricians, psychologists, dentists, and social workers.
I took a seat along with about 15 people — men, women, children, babies — to wait our turn. After the nurse in charge of intake took my name and age, she weighed me and measured my height. The total wait before I saw the doctor was 40 minutes, about the same amount of time I can wait for an appointment in the U.S. that I have made months in advance.
After the diagnosis was confirmed, the doctor prescribed the necessary anti-viral and pain medications, which the on-site pharmacy dispensed immediately. When I asked, the doctor said what I had was familiar here, too. The medicine and office visit is free for local people. For people who don’t live in the pueblo, the suggested donation is 20 pesos (that’s less than $2 USD). I put 100 pesos (that’s about $8 USD) in the donation box.
My ailment will be treated over the course of five or six days. I feel so much better now that I have pastillas (pills) in my system. The doctor asked that I follow-up with him in six days to make sure I’m healing well.
Meanwhile, I suggest, if you are older than age 50 and haven’t done so, to get a shingles vaccination.
P.S. This summer physician assistant and nursing students from Methodist University in Fayetteville, NC, will do an externship here, learning how the Mexican healthcare system works. I organize this through the program leaders at the university, helping the students secure lodging and getting approvals for them to work in the clinic. Today gave me a chance to see how the system works from the inside! It’s very good.
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Posted in Cultural Commentary, Health Care, Oaxaca Mexico art and culture
Tagged blogsherpa, health care, Mexico, Oaxaca