Monthly Archives: February 2025

Chichicastenango Market and Hotel San Ramon

Well, what’s to say but nothing less than spectacular, a treasure trove of textiles, art, vintage jewelry, and a cultural immersion experience. THIS is the famed Chichicastenango market, a warren of stalls almost as complex as the souk in Marrakech.

It took about three hours to get there from Antigua, not much compared to the five hours more to Coban, where we are now and on our way to visit famed pikbil weaver Amalia Gue.

If you would like to come with us in 2026, please send an email to get on the interested list.

For now, photos:

Antigua, Guatemala: Meeting Weaver Ixnal on the Street

We are doing a walking tour with Olga and I’m straggling because of the treacherous ancient cobblestones on the streets, using my two hiking poles for balance. An indigenous woman and her sister come up from behind. She greets me in English: Hello, and welcome to Guatemala. I ask her how she learned such perfect English. She says she is a professor of linguistics at Tulane University. She hosts students in her village of Santa Maria Jesus near the volcano for six weeks each summer. They come to learn Maya. They are carrying two bundles. Eric asks if she has textiles in the bundles. No, she says, but she is part of a cooperative. I ask her is she would like to come to our hotel at five o’clock for an expoventa. Yes! She says. This is what we found when she arrived. A treasure trove of huipiles from various communities. Plus she explained the meaning of the cloth designs, and talked about the difficulties for women and girls in the culture.

Here are photos for you to enjoy. And if you want to come with us to Guatemala in 2026, send me an email.

In Antigua, Guatemala with Lidia López López

It’s a short 30 minute drive from Posada de Don Rodrigo in the historic center of Antigua to San Antonio Aguas Calientes to visit famous weaver Lidia López López. I met her several years ago at the Santa Fe Folk Art Market and again last year at the WARP conference in Denver. Her work is so exquisite that she has been invited to represent Guatemala throughout Europe and the Americas. She has also been to Japan. With her sisters and extended family, they weave motifs of flowers, birds, and foliage that we have seen in the few days we have been here. It takes about eight months working five hours a day on the back strap loom to make one blouses (huipil).

Lidia dressed up Mary, Mike, and Kerry in traditional wedding dress, so we had a Boda! Don’t they look gorgeous? Mary’s long hair was wrapped in a woven textile and then a gauze woven scarf was draped over her. We are in love with these textiles.

we may do this tour again in 2026. If you are interested, send an email to get on the list.

Guatemala City Cathedral and Mercado Central

Zona 1 is about a twenty minute taxi ride from the more upscale Zona 10 where we are staying at the Hyatt Centric, which has been very accommodating. (I’m still trying to figure out the conversion rate for USD.) I’m traveling with Carol Estes and Mike Schroeder who are on our tour that starts tonight in Antigua. We came three days early to explore this city, which is magnificent.

The Guatemala Cathedral and the Central Market, two blocks away, were our destinations. Not as impressive as Templo Santo Domingo in Oaxaca, the Cathedral nevertheless demonstrates the power of the Conquest, massive and containing images of European saints.

The market is a vast, packed, dense warren of aisles packed with food stalls, comedors, and artisan craft and textiles from around the country.

We may return to Guatemala in 2026 IF there are enough people interesting in traveling with us here. Please send an email to express your interest.

After our meander, we had lunch at El Adobe, a delicious and traditional restaurant three blocks from the Cathedral. The day before, we ate at their sister restaurant in Zona 10. We had no trouble going back since the food was so delicious and reasonably priced.

Guatemala City, Museo Ixchel Indigenous Clothing and Popol Vuh

Guatemala City is a big surprise! It is clean, filled with great restaurants, excellent hotels, and glass buildings. It is definitely an international enclave. In the elevator of the Hyatt Centric where we are staying downtown, I met a young man from Japan and a local who both work for Honda motorcycles. Down the street are the Range Rover and BYD dealers. It’s definitely worth a two or three day stay here before you go off to Antigua and Lake Atitlan.

My primary reason for a pre-tour visit was to explore the Museo Ixchel Traje del Indigena de Guatemala. It has seven excellent galleries filled with colorful, intricately woven garments from villages through the country from the 1800’s through to today. And the museum shop has many fine examples of vintage textiles for sale as well as new and vintage jewelry featuring old stones and coins. Hard to save those Quetzales for Antigua and beyond.

Here are a few photos:

We may return to Guatemala in 2026 IF there are enough people interesting in traveling with us here. Please send an email to express your interest.

Tomorrow we are going to the Central Market where we will find folk art and textiles from throughout the country.

The connections between México and Guatemala are strong. The Pan American Highway is the ancient north-south trade route and we see many strong similarities between the two countries and their weavings.

In the same location at the University Francisco Marroquin is the outstanding Popul Vuh Museum. This is an archeological treasure trove. Don’t miss it, either.