My North Carolina friends just left the village after spending a week with me celebrating a belated birthday. It was a bash! Mucho mezcal. Mucha fiesta. Mucha comida. Lots of travel to villages to visit favorite artisans.
We spent a morning with antiquarian Adrian Montaño in Teotitlan del Valle. I met Adrian a couple of months ago when I was visiting with friends Christophe and Rogelio who operate Maison Gallot. But, I had seen him around town, in the market, always impeccably dressed, a woven straw hat topping off the costume.
Adrian at his loom, with (left to right) Scott, Wendy, Kathryn (NC) and Carol (Texas)
Adrian lives in a part adobe, part brick and part concrete house tucked into the hillside above the village. He has a wonderful view. He has one very ancient loom. His house is adorned in antiquities and a beautiful altar. He has been weaving since he was a boy. He is now age 75 and still productive.
Virgins of Guadalupe and Soledad watch over revered ancestors on the altar
In the 1960’s, missionaries came to town and began a program of conversion, translating oral Zapotec into English. (Many still do, and call themselves linguists.) They befriended Adrian, who decided that rather than convert, he would learn English from them.
Adrian is also a painter, and adorns the jicara gourds a la Matisse
His language skills are impeccable and he speaks Zapotec, his first language, Spanish and English flawlessly. He says it is important for young people to keep the language traditions alive. To earn a living, he teaches Zapotec and English to village youth, and weaves ponchos.
The beautiful poncho that Wendy bought. Not natural dyes, but gorgeous nevertheless.
His hidden treasures are a stash of vintage textiles that he wove himself, mostly when he was in his twenties, and those he has collected over the years. We were treated to a Show and Tell. I am sharing the photos of these beauties here.
1930’s-1940’s tapestry, two wefts woven together, natural and synthetic dyes
In the 1930’s and 1940’s, most of the textiles woven were bed blankets. They were natural sheep wool or were synthetic dyes most common to the era — red, green and black. Motifs were animals, birds and symbols of Mexican nationalism. Few remain in pristine condition. Storage is a problem and moths love the dark “chocolate” richness of natural wool.
Panteleon or leopard motif on tapestry blanket, Teotitlan del Valle, 1930’s-40’s
Back then, the looms were narrower and to make a bigger tapestry, the weavers needed to create two exact pieces and then sew them together down the middle. Each side needed to match up! Only the masters could achieve this. These became either blankets or ponchos/serapes.
It was not until the early 1970’s that blankets then became adapted to become floor rugs. This happened when young travelers came to Oaxaca from the USA, saw the beautiful weavings produced in Teotitlan del Valle, understood the beginning craze of Santa Fe Style and worked with weavers to create sturdier floor tapestries.
Curved figures are the most difficult to achieve in tapestry weaving
Many back then brought Navajo designs with them and contracted with weavers to reproduce Native American designs that were then sold throughout the Southwest. Thus, began the rug-weaving boom in the village where I live.
Adrian wrapped in one of his vintage blankets
Today, there is a return to natural dyes and to the traditional Zapotec designs that are found on the stone walls of the Mitla Archeological Site. Moreover, young weavers are developing their own style, taking traditional elements and making them more contemporary, innovating to meet a changing marketplace.
Adrian Montaño has a reverence for his roots. He openly shared his collection with us. Many of the weavings had moth holes. Some were pristine. He tells me that those washed with amole, the traditional natural root used for soap, will prevent moths from nesting. But few people use amole these days.
Eagle and the Serpent Medallion, Mexican nationalism motif
I love Adrian’s ponchos. They are short-cropped and come to the waist. They are designed using the Greca (Greek-key) pattern so named by a European archeologist who explored Mitla.
Adrian wove this Covarrubias-inspired tapestry over 50 years ago
If you want to visit Adrian and purchase a poncho, please give him a call. (951) 166-6296. Only go with the intention of supporting him by purchasing what he makes.
Shuko Clouse is here. She opened Mano del Sur recently, a beautiful online shop that combines her Japanese aesthetic — simplicity and quality — with Mexican handcraft excellence. Shuko came to Oaxaca to restock the shop.
Shopping with Shuko, our Oaxaca backroads adventure into craft villages
She takes her time. She curates each item. She meets the makers and engages with them. She holds an article in her hands and savors its creation. She kneels down to touch a wool rug whose life is created on the loom. She traces the pattern with her fingertips, asking about ancient design origin.
The women who make clay muralEach handmade, hand-formed, imperfect, burnished, beautiful
It is a marvel to go shopping with Shuko. She chooses carefully. Selects one or two items that are the same. She is not a volume shopper. I learn from her. Take your time. Each moment with a handmade article is a blessing for the maker and eventually, the buyer.
Shuko with cochineal dyed cotton warp and ikat wool throw/shawl Arnulfo, Jr. finishes his first rug. So proud. Vendido. Sold!
Don’t rush. When I was in Japan, I saw that a large room with one extraordinary vase containing one exquisite flower was enough. This is antithetical to my own collecting sensibilities. It is a struggle to keep my living environment spare, and I confess I am unsuccessful. But I aspire to this — one object, beautifully crafted, as focal point.
Perfect naturally-dyed beeswax candles suspend from rebar rodsBeeswax candlemaker Viviana Alavez, Grand Master of Oaxaca folk art
Meanwhile, Shuko and I travel the villages; to San Marcos Tlapazola to visit the women makers of red clay pottery; to Mitla to see the weaver of natural dyed wool and cotton; deep into a Mitla neighborhood to visit the antique dealer whose eclectic collection tempts all; to old adobe houses of Teotitlan del Valle where humble weavers work magic.
A collection of dolls on Epifanio’s altar in MitlaRare, 17th century Quiatoni necklace with blown glass, coral. Anyone want it? I’ll buy it for you. $1,200 USD includes mailing.Shuko with Macrina and family in San MarcosErnestina shows us rugs she just finished weavingPerched on a dead tree branch, Virgin of Guadalupe vintage icon
There is a tall, inconspicuous door on a San Pablo Villa de Mitla side street. Open it and discover a home gallery filled with antique treasures. The inventory is small and includes ancient stone metates, glass vases hand-painted with flowers and edged in gold, reliquaries and ex votos. Señor Epifanio knows his stuff.
Scott Roth holding an old Mitla hand-woven textile
Upstairs via a narrow, concrete passageway painted in brilliant blue is a gallery filled with blown glass mezcal bottles, remnants of the time when this was how the agave liquor was stored. They are hard to find and very expensive.
Dolls, old photos, books, chachkeh from Mitla, Oaxaca
Occasionally, there is a jewelry find, like the Mexican silver coin earrings from the early part of the 20th century. I returned a month later to buy them and they were gone. Rule for Shopping in Mexico: buy it when you see it. Usually, these things are one-of-a-kind.
Hand-blown mezcal and water bottles, most from Oaxaca, 1950’s-1960’s
I’m reluctant to share the address and contact information. Only because I haven’t asked permission to cite the location, plus these things are getting scarce, and with scarcity comes higher prices. As demand rises, prices do, too. So, why am I publishing this?
Posted onWednesday, April 16, 2014|Comments Off on Tour Puebla, Mexico: Cooking & Culture, From the Humble to the Divine
August 13-18, starting at $895 per person double occupancy–
Chiles en Nogada Cooking Class
Sumptuous Dinner Party in a Private Historic Home
Elegant Dining and Neighborhood Eating
Flea Market and Antique Shopping
Museums, Churches, Archeology, History
Puebla, Mexico, is a short two hours from Mexico City by bus direct from the international airport. It is one of my favorite Mexican cities and I often stop here going to and from Oaxaca. It is the home of Talavera tile, Cinco de Mayo, Mole Poblano, chiles en nogada, and cemitas. It has a weekend antiques and flea market that draws crowds, gilded churches, Baroque architecture with pastel and tiled facades topped with white plaster meringue, great chefs, outstanding restaurants, and ancient archeological sites. At 7,000 feet altitude, visitors enjoy moderate temperatures year ’round, even in summer!
Your five night, 6-day visit includes:
5 nights lodging in a lovely, highly rated historic center hotel
guided visits to famed, certified Talavera ceramics studios
chiles en nogada cooking class in a private home featured in Mexicocina with market tour, and lunch
sumptuous candlelit dinner that evening presented by our cooking teachers/hosts
gourmet dining and neighborhood/market fare experiences
time on your own to explore the incredible weekend antique/flea market
in-depth visits to archeological and religious sites of Cholula and Tonantzintla
Plus, lots more.
Puebla is Mexico’s fourth largest city, cosmopolitan without being overwhelming. It is relaxed, accessible, and easily experienced in several days. Known as the ‘City of the Angels’” or Angelopolis, Puebla, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was founded in 1531 as a purely colonial Spanish city built from the ground up—not on top of an existing indigenous temple — at the trading crossroads between the port of Veracruz and Mexico City. More than 5,000 Baroque-designed buildings date mostly from the 16th century and are covered in handcrafted Talavera.
Puebla is also about shopping! The highlight is Talavera pottery. And, there are many other local crafts: Tree of Life clay figures, bark paper paintings, woven and embroidered textiles from the Sierra Norte, red clay cooking vessels and dinnerware, and unique onyx and marble sculptures. You can find these and much more at the traditional markets, the stalls that line Puebla’s beautiful plazas, and at the weekend flea and antique market.
Puebla is known throughout Mexico for its excellent cuisine, a blend of pre-Hispanic, Arabic, French and Spanish influences. There are many outstanding Tesoros de Mexico-rated (Mexico’s highest) restaurants, and we’ll be dining at a few!
We’ll also go to Cholula, an indigenous village just outside Puebla with the world’s widest ancient pyramid, Quetzalcoatl. The Spanish built the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de los Remidios with its amazing 24-carat gold basilica atop the pyramid. On a clear day you can see snow-capped Popocatepetl, an active volcano, showing off his powerful plume.
Preliminary Itinerary:
Day 1, August 13: Travel to Puebla, check-in to our historic center hotel
Day 2, August 14: Chiles en Nogada Cooking class with market tour & lunch, followed by sumptuous private dinner
Day 3, August 15: Cholula archeology site, Tonantzintla church, and Talavera de la Reyna ceramics
Day 4, August 16: Antiques and flea market, museums, market lunch
Day 5, August 17: Gallery hopping and shopping, fine dining
La Purificadora Hotel, an architectural wonder, designed by Ricardo and Victor Legorreta
Uriarte and Talavera de la Reyna ceramics studios
We include private transportation on a day-trip to Cholula, Tonantzintla, and Talavera de la Reyna ceramics studios.
Transportation to Puebla: Puebla is easily accessed by Estrella Roja first class bus direct from the Benito Juarez International Airport (Terminal One and Terminal Two) and from Oaxaca on ADO. If you are coming from the U.S. be sure to reserve your round trip air travel to/from Mexico City. When you register, we will give you complete “how to get there” information.
What is Not Included:
meals, snacks, alcoholic beverages
entrance fees to local museums/attractions
transportation to/from Mexico City
transportation to/from Puebla
mandatory international health/accident insurance
tips for hotels, meals and other services
Cost:
$895 per person double occupancy, shared room and bath
$1,195 per person single occupancy, private room and bath
Reservations and Cancellations
A 50% deposit will guarantee your spot. The final payment for the balance is due on or before July 1, 2014. Payment shall be made by PayPal. We will be happy to send you an itemized invoice.
Please understand that we make lodging and other arrangements months in advance of the program. Deposits or payments in full are often required by our hosts. If cancellation is necessary, please tell us in writing by email. After July 1, no refunds are possible. However, we will make every possible effort to fill your reserved space or you may send a substitute. If you cancel on or before July 1, we will refund 50% of your deposit. We ask that you take out trip cancellation, baggage, emergency evacuation and medical insurance before you begin your trip, since accidents happen.
Required–Travel Health/Accident Insurance: We require that you carry international accident/health/emergency evacuation insurance.Proof of insurance must be sent at least two weeks before departure. If you do not wish to do this, we ask you email a PDF of a notarized waiver of responsibility, holding harmless Norma Hawthorne and Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC. Unforeseen circumstances happen!
To register, email us at normahawthorne@mac.com. If you have questions, send us an email. We accept payment with PayPal only. Thank you.
This workshop is produced by Norma Hawthorne, Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC. We reserve the right to modify the itinerary.
There are two parts to this story. One is the Antiguedades (Mexican jewelry and antiques shop) operated by Juan Jimenez, and Two is the adjoining Museo Belber-Jimenez textile and antique jewelry collection on display that belongs to brother Federico Jimenez and his wife Ellen Belber. Both are located in the same colonial casa at the corner of Matamoros #307 at the corner of Tinoco y Palacios, Centro Historico, Oaxaca.
We went there to oggle the extraordinary jewelry collection which includes great representative samples from the most famous Mexican silversmiths, including Fred Davis, William Spratling, Mathilde Poulat and others. If you love Mexican silver, amethyst, turquoise, coral and other gemstones, this is where you can see the originals all in one place. Plus there’s lots of early colonial Oaxaca gold filigree, sand cast Yalalag silver crosses, and examples of the finest work that is no longer being made.
Of course, we couldn’t leave without going into the shop to look at the recreations in the style of Frida Kahlo — those big dangling, music-making earrings that jingle and jangle when you move. Hollie models one of Juan’s designs.
Recently, Dave Emerson wrote about his visit to the museum on his blog Oaxaca Chapulines and gives a bit of history.
Today, store offerings included 1930’s Saltillo tapestries, wonderful old textiles, clay and wood sculpted figurines, masks, reliquaries, tissue paper collages by Rudolfo Morales, a Rufino Tamayo lithograph, colonial furniture, and other objects d’arte.
Proprietor Juan Jimenez is a patient host and offers lots of interesting tidbits about the history of the collection and what he has in the store. You can feel comfortable looking to your heart’s content and not feel any obligation to make a purchase.
We also spent some time in the textile section of the museum. Here are some photos of some exquisite older trajes (costumes) from villages throughout the state of Oaxaca.
These are woven on back-strap looms with the design integrated into the weft during the weaving process, or they may be intricately embroidered. Many of the complex designs are no longer created, which makes this collection even more important. Preservation of the textile tradition of Oaxaca is essential and it is nice to see this small permanent exhibition on display.
or contact by telephone (951) 514-4996, cellular (044) 951-165-1517. The museum closes daily between 2:00-4:00 p.m. for lunch. Call ahead to be certain of hours.
Why We Left, Expat Anthology: Norma’s Personal Essay
Norma contributes personal essay, How Oaxaca Became Home
Norma Contributes Two Chapters!
Click image to order yours!
Our Programs: Study Tours + Workshops
Dye Workshops All Year. Set Your Own Dates.
Individuals & Groups Welcome!
Hands-on Dye Workshops + Textile Experiences
We offer textile experiences in our studio where we weave and work only in natural dyes.You can see the process during our textile tours, dye workshops or customized weaving experiences. Ask us for more information about these experiences, customized scheduling, and prices.
Oaxaca has the largest and most diverse textile culture in Mexico! Learn about it.
1-Day OaxacaCity Collectors Textile Tour.Exclusive Access! We take you into the homes and workshops of Oaxaca State's prize-winning weavers. They come from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, the Mixteca, Mixe, Amuzgos and Triqui areas and represent their weaving families and cooperatives here. For collectors, retailers, buyers, wholesalers, fashionistas.
1-Day Oaxaca Textile Walking Tour When you visit Oaxaca immerse yourself in our textile culture: How is indigenous clothing made, what is the best value, most economical, finest available. Suitable for adults only. Set your own dates.
2022 Going Deep, Not Wide--Extended Tours
July 25-31, 2022. Oaxaca Textile Adventure Tour: Sierra Norte Mountains. Visit two remote mountain villages where silk and cotton are woven into glorious cloth and dyed with natural plant materials. Come early or stay later for Guelaguetza! Not too late to join!
October 28-November 4, 2022: Women’s Creative Writing Retreat in Teotitlan del Valle — Memory and Tradition. Click this link to read about it. ONE SPACE OPEN FOR SHARED ROOM.
October 29-November 4, 2022:Day of the Dead Culture Tour. We meet locals and visit 4 villages to experience this mystical pre-Hispanic observance, awesome and reverent. Still space for a few more!
February 5-13, 2023: Bucket List Tour: Monarch Butterflies + Michoacan. Spiritual, mystical connection to nature. Go deep into weaving, pottery, mask-making and more! We haven't offered this tour since 2019 and we anticipate it will sell out quickly. TWO SPACES OPEN
February 21-March 1, 2023: Chiapas Textile Study Tour--Deep Into the Maya World Based in San Cristobal de las Casas, we travel to distant pueblos to meet extraordinary weavers --Best of the Best! Just a handful of spaces open.
Stay Healthy. Stay Safe. In Oaxaca, wear your mask. Questions? Want more info or to register? Send an email to Norma Schafer.
Maps: Teotitlan + Tlacolula Market
We require 48-hour advance notice for map orders to be processed. We send a printable map via email PDF after order received. Please be sure to send your email address. Where to see natural dyed rugs in Teotitlan del Valle and layout of the Sunday Tlacolula Market, with favorite eating, shopping, ATMs. Click Here to Buy Map After you click, be sure to check PayPal to ensure your email address isn't hidden from us. We fulfill each map order personally. It is not automatic.
Dye Master Dolores Santiago Arrellanas with son Omar Chavez Santiago, weaver and dyer, Fey y Lola Rugs, Teotitlan del Valle
Antiques in San Pablo Villa de Mitla, Tlacolula, Oaxaca
There is a tall, inconspicuous door on a San Pablo Villa de Mitla side street. Open it and discover a home gallery filled with antique treasures. The inventory is small and includes ancient stone metates, glass vases hand-painted with flowers and edged in gold, reliquaries and ex votos. Señor Epifanio knows his stuff.
Scott Roth holding an old Mitla hand-woven textile
Upstairs via a narrow, concrete passageway painted in brilliant blue is a gallery filled with blown glass mezcal bottles, remnants of the time when this was how the agave liquor was stored. They are hard to find and very expensive.
Dolls, old photos, books, chachkeh from Mitla, Oaxaca
Occasionally, there is a jewelry find, like the Mexican silver coin earrings from the early part of the 20th century. I returned a month later to buy them and they were gone. Rule for Shopping in Mexico: buy it when you see it. Usually, these things are one-of-a-kind.
Hand-blown mezcal and water bottles, most from Oaxaca, 1950’s-1960’s
I’m reluctant to share the address and contact information. Only because I haven’t asked permission to cite the location, plus these things are getting scarce, and with scarcity comes higher prices. As demand rises, prices do, too. So, why am I publishing this?
So you can see the photos, of course.
Faces and Festivals Chiapas Photography Workshop
Portrait of Scott Roth with old Zapotec textile from Teotitlan del Valle
Like this:
2 Comments
Posted in Cultural Commentary, Photography, Travel & Tourism
Tagged antiques, Chiapas, Mitla, Oaxaca, photography, rugs, tapestry, textile, Tlacolula, workshop