We are in Puebla where Mole Poblano rules and great cuisine is around most corners from the zocalo. For two nights running we gave eaten at El Mural de Los Poblanos. Hail to executive chef Lisett Galicia Solis who knows how to transform ingredients into sublime flavors. I would go to Puebla for no other reason than to dine in this restaurant!
This is Huaxmole season. For one month each year Poblano chefs and cooks prepare this Pre-Hispanic dish that originated in Tehuacan about an hour and a half from Puebla. Everyone has their own interpretation.
Tonight I asked Lisette what are the secret ingredients. She said it is three things. You must wash the goat meat until it is white and scrub the bones. You must add the guaje seed to the tomato base and also small coriander seeds and greens. All the ingredients are prepared a day in advance and simmered until the goat meat falls from the bone. The broth is a rich tomato meat stock with a bite. Perfect for an early November night to take the chill off. Huaxmole is pronounced “wash- moh-lay”.
Here is a great photo of Chef Lisett Galicia Solis taken by writer/photographer Christine Zenino who traveled with me to Puebla. http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrissy575/5173992372/in/set-72157625267238771/
Below is a delicious sweet tomato, avocado and sprouts salad — with bite, crunch, and smoothness. Delicioso!
Predictability of Daily Life
The big looms are on the second story balcony of the Chavez house at Francisco I. Madero #55. They are 12 feet and 8 feet wide respectively. Two apprentices are here this week working at these looms. They arrive at 7 a.m. and leave 3 p.m. for comida. Yesterday, the younger one returned and worked until 10 p.m. The music from the boom box fills the entire space of the casa with blues and jazz repurposed in Spanish, and the beat beat beat of the looms shakes the underpinnings of the house. It is mucho trabajo, much work, constant work, long hours, and the finished 8 x 10 foot hand loomed rug made with naturally dyed 100% wool yarn will fetch about $1,600 USD. Not much for the labor involved. I am sitting on the balcony of my bedroom feeling the vibrations of the looms. The French doors are wide open and the grillwork casts a curly cue shadow across the floor. Beyond the geranium pots are courtyard upon courtyard of cooking fires, bleating sheep, cackling hens, tiled roofs, adobe walls, isolated pine trees, and in the distance the 9,000 foot high Sierra Madre del Sur.
The day is warm, 68 degrees. Nights are chilly, 45 degrees. The bougainvilla are blooming now. Roses twine over door arbors. White jasmine flowers drape across trellises providing needed shade. I can stand on the cobblestone street and in a matter of minutes a diminutive farmer, staff in hand, will guide his herd of cattle out from behind a walled fence, door flung open to the world, on their way to nibble alfalfa in the field beyond. I feel no need to do or see, only to be in this moment of tranquility.
There is a predictable pattern for each day in this Zapotec household. Arise. Sprinkle water on the courtyard floor. Sweep. Make coffee. Shower and dress. Weave a little. Climb into the blue camionetta (truck) for the morning trip to the market to buy food for the day. Visit there with village friends. Squeeze the pineapple or melon or papaya or oranges to test for freshness. Buy chicken breasts or tasajo (meat for grilling). Choose the tortillas from your favorite vendor: are they yellow, white or blue masa today? Stop for pan dulce (sweet bread). Put everything in your handmade woven basket. Come home, make fresh salsa. Sautee a mixture of diced carrots and potatoes and onions and chicken. Serve it on the table. Assemble a tortilla with the chicken mixture, add salsa, wrap it all and eat it. Drink coffee or hot chocolate. Dunk the sweet bread into your beverage to soften. This is a daily habit, a rhythm of repetition and comfort.
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Posted in Cultural Commentary, Oaxaca Mexico art and culture
Tagged habits of daily life, Mexican food, Oaxaca, weaving