Tag Archives: Oaxaca

Norma’s Oaxaca Closet Sale: 4 Wearing + Gifting

Ends Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 3 PM!

I’m at my casita in Teotitlan del Valle and will return to the USA at the end of the coming week. I’m looking at the handwoven blusas and huipilesin my closet here! A collection of naturally dyed and artisan made textiles that I have treasured because I know everyone who has created them. Many are pieces I purchased years ago, so they have collector value. Most have never been or rarely been worn. So, very much LIKE NEW.

I’m reposting this. Glitches on website yesterday! Thanks for understanding.

Please purchase before 3 PM on November 14. I will be packing them to take with me when I return to New Mexico for the winter holidays and mail them to you after November 20 — just in time for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Perfect for wearing or gifting!

20 pieces. Scroll all the way down!

Pieces are priced FAR BELOW what was paid for them. Priced to SELL.

How to Buy: Send me an email to tell me which item(s) you want BY NUMBER and by name of item. Send me your name, mailing address, email address, and phone number. Tell me if you want to purchase using a Zelle transfer or a credit card. If you use a credit card, we add a 4% service fee. There is no extra fee for using Zelle. If you want Zelle, please tell me how your Zelle account is registered. For mailing, I will add a $14 packing and mailing charge. I am NOT putting these items for sale in the SHOP — only here!

Thank you!

#1. Reindeer Smocked Blouse from Tijaltepec, Oaxaca. The animal figures are created by smocking the 100% cotton fabric. Green trim is embroidered. Note the amazing sleeves. A perfect outfit for the holidays and seasonal festivities. Measures 17″ wide x 26″ long. Size M-L. $135 USD.

#2. This is an amazing back strap loomed 100% cotton poncho colored with natural dyes. I bought it from Los Baules de Juana Cata, curated by Remigio Mestas, in the historic center of Oaxaca. It is likely from the Mixteca Alta and made with a great deal of care and detail. Notice the hand-twisted fringes and the soft drape! Measures 45″ wide x 43″ long. $295

#3. Completely created by hand on a back strap loom in Cancuc, Chiapas, this 100% cotton garment is embellished with hand-embroidered detailing using synthetic yarns in the traditional colors of the village. Belt it or wear it as a robe. Size L-XL. Measures 31″ wide x 45″ long. $145.

#4. A finest quality manta (natural cotton) blusa (blouse) from Ejutla, Oaxaca, purchased some years ago from Los Baules de Juana Cata curated by Remigio Mestas. He works with only the finest weavers and embroiderers in remote villages. The bodice and sleeve edging are embroidered with the finest cotton threads. The color mix is a dark lavender-gray. The fabric drapes beautifully. The neck tie is strong and sturdy. I’m unable to wear this because it is now way too big on me. Size L-XL. Measures 28″ wide x 24″ long. $165 USD.

SOLD #5. One of my favorite Oaxaca villages is San Juan Colorado. It is a remote village on the coast and we will visit there in 2026. (email me if you want to be notified about this tour) Huipiles and blusas are created on the backstrap loom. This huipil is made with 100% cotton and natural dyes. The green is raw indigo. The red is cochineal and the brown is nut shells and leaves. A stunning piece. Measures 25″ wide x 41″ long. Size M-L. $235 USD.

#6. From the southern Oaxaca coast village of San Mateo del Mar, this fine gauze blouse was woven on the back strap loom. It features sea creatures, wildlife, and plants from the region including ducks, palm trees, and roosters. It is a size S-M. Measures 23″ wide x 25″ long. $95

#7. In Pinotepa de Don Luis on the Oaxaca coast, the rare purple snail dye is used sparingly to decorate hand-woven textiles. The figures include the double headed eagle, rows of corn, and people holding hands in community. This huipil has more purple snail dye than is typically used, making it a special piece. The white cotton threads are hand-spun on the drop spindle malacate by Monica from the famed family of Don Habacuc Avedano. Size M. Measures 26″ wide x 35″ long. $285.

#8a. This is a super-sized fuschine-dyed huipil from Santiago Ixtlayutla on the coast of Oaxaca, and is considered rare! The back strap loom woven dress, embellished with flora and fauna designs, is cotton with the designs woven in silk. The silk, a protein based fiber, absorbs the dye. The bleeding of the color is an intentional part of the process. The garment is folded after weaving, soaked in water, then dipped in dye. The bleeding mirrors the woven design. I purchased this from the private collection of Oaxaca textile museum founder in 2007 and rarely worn. Notice the tight randa (joining embroidery stitch) — hard to find this quality these days. Dry clean only. Size L-XL. Measures 34″ wide x 46″ long. Priced to sell at $595.

SOLD. #8b. This is a traditional woven textile from Pinotepa de Don Luis on the Oaxaca coast. It is not natural dyes yet it is one of the most finely woven pieces of cloth I have seen in years. Size L-XL. Measures 28″ wide x 36″ long. Priced to sell at $135.

#9. Curated by Merry Elizabeth Foss who worked with seamstresses and embroiderers in the remote mountainous region of Puebla state, this Chakira (beaded) blouse is white on white. Not the fine embroidered trim around the adjustable neckline and sleeve. Merry sold these at Malouf on the Square in Santa Fe at over $400 USD. Size S-M. Measures 22″ wide x 23-1/2″ long. Priced to sell at $125.

SOLD. #10. Vintage Guatemala ikat heavier weight cotton fabric designed into a contemporary style dress with two huge front pockets from one of the finest Oaxaca shops. Machine washable or dry clean. Size L-XL. Measures 27″ wide x 41″ long with an 18″ long sleeve. Priced to sell at $135.

SOLD #11. From the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, machine embroidered blouse on wine colored cotton fabric with frilly sleeve. All Oaxaca blouses embroidered on a machine are distinctive because the embroiderer hand-guides the needle — so we consider this made by hand. Size S. Measures 20″ wide x 24″ long. Priced to sell at $65.

#12. Oh My Goodness. Drop dead gorgeous. Try to find something like this in your quest for finest hand embroidery anywhere. This is punto de cruz — cross-stitch — along with incredible hand-smocking on bodice and sleeves. This is a vintage piece in very good condition, very wearable. From Michoacan. Size S-M. Embroidered bodice measures 11″ across; 27″ wide armpit-to-armpit; and 50″ long. Priced to sell at $165.

Sold. #13. Ruana is a modified poncho, open in the front and on the sides. Wear it straight or sling one or both front panels over your shoulder for a superb fashion statement. Natural dyes. From curator collector Remigio Mestas at Los Baules de Juana Cata. Measures 34″ long. The two front panels are 19″ wide each. The back panel is 38″ wide. One size fits all. $145 USD.

SOLD 14. From Pinotepa de Don Luis, Oaxaca. Coyuchi is native brown cotton that pre-dates the Spanish conquest. As a native grown plant, it is harvested, seeded by hand, then beaten and spun on a drop spindle malacate. Very labor intensive. This piece is embellis with figures dyed with purple snail dye — very rare. One size fits all. Measures 38″ wide x 28″ long. $195.

SOLD. #15. From indigenous designer Alberto Lopez Gomez, who is featured in New York Fashion Week and winner of international awards, this huipil is woven on the back strap loom in Magdalena Aldama, Chiapas. Size S. Measures 22″ wide x 22″ long. $195.

#16. Albert Lopez Gomez designed this piece that was woven on the back strap loom in Magdalena Aldama, Chiapas where talented Maya women in his family create glorious cloth. The human figures at the bottom of the bodice represent the gods who hold the universe on their shoulders. Size S. Measures 20″ wide x 22-1/2″ long. Priced to sell at $170.

#17. Blue. Khadi Oaxaca is a workshop known for its lightweight garments made on the back strap or flying shuttle loom with all natural dyes. This tunic is dyed with indigo with wild marigold. Size S. 21″ wide x 28″ long, 11″ vents. Great over skirts or slacks. Layer over an insulated shirt for winter wearing! $95

#18. Teal. Khadi Oaxaca is a workshop known for its lightweight garments made on the back strap or flying shuttle loom with all natural dyes. This tunic is dyed with indigo with wild marigold. Size S. 21″ wide x 28″ long, 11″ vents. Great over skirts or slacks. Layer over an insulated shirt for winter wearing! $95

#19. Green. Khadi Oaxaca is a workshop known for its lightweight garments made on the back strap or flying shuttle loom with all natural dyes. This tunic is dyed with indigo with wild marigold. Size S. 21″ wide x 28″ long, 11″ vents. Great over skirts or slacks. Layer over an insulated shirt for winter wearing! $85.

Sold. #20. Very rare and sought after native green Oaxaca cotton, hand-spun, woven on a back-strap loom, and embellished with figures dyed in rare purple snail dye. A one-of-a-kind. The green cotton is pre-Hispanic and used by indigenous weavers long before the Spanish conquest. It is amazing that it still survives today, although in very small quantities. Woven in Pinotepa de Don Luis, Oaxaca on the coast. Size M. Measures 25″ wide x 28″ long. $195.

Photo Workshop Day 3: Luvia’s Grandmother +

We met at Luvia’s photography studio at 9:30 a.m. Before that, most of us returned to the village market to take more pictures. The early morning light here is illuminating. The light plays with shadows and texture; there is so much to capture the eye. This is a daily market in Teotitlan del Valle, one of the few remaining here in indigenous culture. During Dia de los Muertos, as families buy flowers, bread, chocolate, fruit, candles to decorate graves and home altars, the market is even more resplendent.

At the studio, we send photos to Luvia’s computer and then have a look-see with a discussion about each of our works taken the day before and this morning. We were frantically editing the ones from this morning to get these ready to send. We talked about composition, cropping, lighting, finding the details, getting closer to our subjects than many of us are comfortable with. It’s an exercise in asking permission to photograph and then stepping into a space that is tighter than usual.

We began to see our world differently and with more definition.

We especially enjoyed our visit to the home of Luvia’s grandmother. She is age 78. Many women age faster here, especially the older generation who have borne and raised many children, and did everything by hand including: shucking corn from the cob, washing laundry and dishes, carrying water, preparing meals three times a day, and feeding the farm animals — chickens, goats, turkeys, cows. Each morning they walked to the market and home again throughout their lives where the daily social contact there was so important. Many ducked into the local convenience store to sip mezcal together and catch up on gossip.

Then it was home again to do everything necessary to keep an extended-family household going.

We were so happy this workshop fit into Luvia’s schedule. Her work has been featured in The New Yorker and Vogue magazines, and she has had exhibitions in the USA and Europe. Fujifilm and Leica awarded her grants as a rising star, and she will be going to New York to participate in an arts residency in 2025. Both Luvia and I agree: we do not want to hold workshops during Day of the Dead — November 1 and November 2. We want this to be quiet time with our families to reflect on meaning, loss, life and death, and to remember our loved ones.

Here are some of the photos I took that day in the market and with Luvia’s grandmother:

And here is my Day Of the Dead Altar to remember my parents. I call it my Memory Altar. It looks very much the same year after year, which is very reassuring.

Photography Workshop Day Two: Portraits + More

On the second day of our photography workshop in Teotitlan del Valle, our instructor, Luvia Lazo Gutierrez, made appointments with families to visit them in their homes. This was an incredible exercise to capture a more intimate view of village life and to understand the technical aspects of light, shadow, distance, and perspective. Luvia, whose work is featured in The New Yorker magazine, Vogue magazine, and represented in U.S. galleries, made suggestions for ways to best focus on portrait elements. In addition, we took turns photographing each other, which was very fun.

We visited two weaving families and a practice session for the new Dance of the Feathers group. Luvia asked us to look at subjects differently — to move close up with our feet rather than using the zoom feature, to focus on elements such as hands and feet or a particular section of the body. We challenged ourselves to be more conceptual rather than literal. It was an excellent learning experience.

Since it’s Halloween today, I want to make an important distinction between this tradition rooted in Catholicism, and Day of the Dead which is rooted in pre-Hispanic indigenous tradition. Day of the Dead is NOT Halloween. It is an important ritual to remember, respect, and honor those we love who have passed before us. It is quiet, reflective, introspective, and reverent. We sit at gravesites cleaned and decorated with fresh flowers, fruit, vegetables, drinks that loved ones preferred, talk to them, and feel their presence even though they are gone from us.

Visitors have brought the film Coco to Oaxaca, with face painting, revelry, and little understanding of indigenous culture. Day of the Dead is NOT this.

Here are some of the photos I took on Day Two:

Oaxaca Photo Workshop: Day One, Day of the Dead

We gathered in photographer Luvia Lazo Gutierrez’s studio this morning at 9:30 a.m. to start our three-day photography workshop in Teotitlan del Valle. We are here to explore the Day of the Dead visual landscape of the village, gain creative insights and technical skills, and see the world through a more defined lens. I found myself noticing more details and finding the particularities of an object rather than stepping back to see the bigger picture.

This year, I sold a photograph to Scholastic Magazine and to a few others over the years. However, I’m not a professional. I always consider myself open to learning something new and to have my work (in whatever medium) evaluated with constructive feedback from others. That’s why I’m participating. Plus, it’s an inspiration and fun to walk around the village with Luvia, who was born and raised here. She has a lot of knowledge and is an excellent teacher. We trailed her like ducklings.

Apple flew Luvia to Cupertino recently to participate in the launch of the iPhone 16. They gave her a new phone (which behaves more like a point-and-shoot camera) plus a computer. At age 34, she is a success story. Her work has been featured in the New Yorker Magazine. She is recognized as an up-and-coming artist by Leica and Fujifilm, and she was selected for a five-month artist residency next year in New York. I’ve known Luvia since she was age 18, when she was first starting out in photography. She worked with me then to help organize Oaxaca programs taught by faculty from the Duke University Center for Documentary Studies. I’m proud to think I had a little something to do with getting her started.

Being part of a small group is very supportive and energizing. We also learn from each other, and while we notice the same things, we have different points of view. That can be very instructive as we share our work with each other.

After visiting the village market this morning and the cemetery this afternoon, we were asked to create a personal narrative through the photographs we will take over these three days. Luvia encourages us to tell a story to honor someone we love who has passed since we are here for Day of the Dead. She describes using photos to write a letter to a loved one rather than words. This could include images of favorite food and drink, flowers, colors. She says that when you learn to tell a story you have a tool for photography. With photography, your subconscious is always working.

Luvia also asks us not to be attached to every photograph we take and experiment. She suggests that we get closer, change angles, and choose a different perspective by photographing from below or above a subject. Photography can be conceptual rather than literal. She showed us photos of cactus leaves, for example, that looked like sculpture because they were close-ups and the eye saw the smooth skin of a corner of a plant rather than the whole.

If we want to take a photo of a person, Luvia reminded us to ask permission first: Puedo a tomar su foto?

Tomorrow, we plan to be at the market very early to capture the morning light, and then visit families where we will take portraits.

Here are a few of my favorite shots from today. I am using my iPhone. Others are using DSLR and mirrorless cameras.

For the black-and-white photos, I use an App called TinType. I like it because it plays with depth of field and shadows.

Oaxaca Street Life and Re-Entry

On Monday, despite bumping around a bit in the sky atop the last remnants of a tropical storm that painted a picturesque landscape of layered clouds as we came in for a landing, I arrived in Oaxaca. Re-entry was easy. I’m always grateful to pick up my luggage from the conveyor belt after passing through immigration, and then hit the button for customs. Hit a green button and you are waived through. Hit a red button and you are pulled aside to have your luggage inspected. It’s the luck of the draw.

We walked to dinner at Sur a Norte, an always reliable favorite cafe bar that serves up very good food at a fair price. You can almost reach out and touch Santo Domingo church, located just across the cobblestone road. We recommend the tacos (any flavor will do).

Over the next two days in the city, I walked ten to twelve thousand steps each day. I covered a lot of territory. What I noticed was the proliferation of mezcal bars and tasting rooms. There is, it seems, one on every street corner, plus another one or two mid-block. No one has to leave Oaxaca thirsty. After all, we are billed as the mezcal capital of the world. Most don’t open until late afternoon, but that won’t stop a serious drinker from finding an open watering hole.

My first destination on Tuesday morning, after breakfast with Carol, Elsa and Eric at Yegole in Jalatlaco (more about this later), I headed to my favorite haberdashery, Alberle Hats on Calle Armenta y Lopez, southeast of the Zocalo. This time, instead of my usual beaver felted hat (half the cost of any in the USA), I wanted a handwoven straw hat from Michoacan. It’s still warm and sunny here, despite the fact that Taos, New Mexico, weather is cooling down to what my body calls almost frigid. Nightime lows there are thirty-six degrees. Brrrr.

The breakfast at Yegole was so delicious and satisfying — a gluten-free house-made toasted bagel slathered in bacon, cheese, grilled onions, and avocado — that I wanted another opportunity the following morning to indulge in chilaquiles with green salsa with an over-easy egg and well-cooked bacon on the side. Oh, I forgot to mention that on both days I ordered a banana-chocolate smoothie that was like eating dessert. Why not?

We managed to snag a lunch table later in the afternoon at Los Danzantes, by far my favorite Oaxaca restaurant. It is almost impossible to get in now, and I don’t think I’ve dined there in over two years. Don’t miss the coconut coated giant shrimp. I had two vegetable dishes, one a roasted cauliflower and the other roasted carrots floating on a beet puree. The best dessert is the goat cheese flan and we indulged.

While I’m not shopping for much, I did a loop through Miniso. This is a Chinese-Japanese owned variety store that features an excellent assortment of household items, cosmetics, toys, tech gizmos, stationery, and doo-dads. There is always something there that I need and want!

Then, it was off to Xiguela organic food store in Jalatlaco to stock up on lettuce (pre-washed and sanitized), zucchini, tomatoes, Manchego cheese, and avocados. Here in Oaxaca, the avocados are about ten cents each. We eat a lot of them. They were out of miso soup, so I’m going to need to go scouting.

It’s a week before Dia de los Muertos. The city is beginning to decorate and the state-sponsored tianguis — the outdoor shopping mall housed under tents near Santo Domingo Church — are being erected. The decor continues to be over the top exciting and each year there is a surprise that hangs over the main walking street, Andador Macedonio Alcala.

We can fit one more person into our October 30, Day of the Dead Tour, and we can take two more in our Teotitlan photography workshop from October 27 to 29 with Luvia Lazo. If you are in Oaxaca now, consider joining us.

Don’t forget to order: