On Monday, despite bumping around a bit in the sky atop the last remnants of a tropical storm that painted a picturesque landscape of layered clouds as we came in for a landing, I arrived in Oaxaca. Re-entry was easy. I’m always grateful to pick up my luggage from the conveyor belt after passing through immigration, and then hit the button for customs. Hit a green button and you are waived through. Hit a red button and you are pulled aside to have your luggage inspected. It’s the luck of the draw.
We walked to dinner at Sur a Norte, an always reliable favorite cafe bar that serves up very good food at a fair price. You can almost reach out and touch Santo Domingo church, located just across the cobblestone road. We recommend the tacos (any flavor will do).
Over the next two days in the city, I walked ten to twelve thousand steps each day. I covered a lot of territory. What I noticed was the proliferation of mezcal bars and tasting rooms. There is, it seems, one on every street corner, plus another one or two mid-block. No one has to leave Oaxaca thirsty. After all, we are billed as the mezcal capital of the world. Most don’t open until late afternoon, but that won’t stop a serious drinker from finding an open watering hole.
My first destination on Tuesday morning, after breakfast with Carol, Elsa and Eric at Yegole in Jalatlaco (more about this later), I headed to my favorite haberdashery, Alberle Hats on Calle Armenta y Lopez, southeast of the Zocalo. This time, instead of my usual beaver felted hat (half the cost of any in the USA), I wanted a handwoven straw hat from Michoacan. It’s still warm and sunny here, despite the fact that Taos, New Mexico, weather is cooling down to what my body calls almost frigid. Nightime lows there are thirty-six degrees. Brrrr.
The breakfast at Yegole was so delicious and satisfying — a gluten-free house-made toasted bagel slathered in bacon, cheese, grilled onions, and avocado — that I wanted another opportunity the following morning to indulge in chilaquiles with green salsa with an over-easy egg and well-cooked bacon on the side. Oh, I forgot to mention that on both days I ordered a banana-chocolate smoothie that was like eating dessert. Why not?
We managed to snag a lunch table later in the afternoon at Los Danzantes, by far my favorite Oaxaca restaurant. It is almost impossible to get in now, and I don’t think I’ve dined there in over two years. Don’t miss the coconut coated giant shrimp. I had two vegetable dishes, one a roasted cauliflower and the other roasted carrots floating on a beet puree. The best dessert is the goat cheese flan and we indulged.
While I’m not shopping for much, I did a loop through Miniso. This is a Chinese-Japanese owned variety store that features an excellent assortment of household items, cosmetics, toys, tech gizmos, stationery, and doo-dads. There is always something there that I need and want!
Then, it was off to Xiguela organic food store in Jalatlaco to stock up on lettuce (pre-washed and sanitized), zucchini, tomatoes, Manchego cheese, and avocados. Here in Oaxaca, the avocados are about ten cents each. We eat a lot of them. They were out of miso soup, so I’m going to need to go scouting.
It’s a week before Dia de los Muertos. The city is beginning to decorate and the state-sponsored tianguis — the outdoor shopping mall housed under tents near Santo Domingo Church — are being erected. The decor continues to be over the top exciting and each year there is a surprise that hangs over the main walking street, Andador Macedonio Alcala.
We can fit one more person into our October 30, Day of the Dead Tour, and we can take two more in our Teotitlan photography workshop from October 27 to 29 with Luvia Lazo. If you are in Oaxaca now, consider joining us.
Don’t forget to order:
- Self-Guided Map — Teotitlan del Valle
- Self-Guided Map — Tlacolula Market
- Our Favorite Things to Do in Oaxaca
Stopover Puebla: Taking a Break Between Mexico City and Oaxaca
Puebla, Mexico, has so much to offer that a two to four-day stopover going to or from Oaxaca to Mexico City is usually in my travel plans. I like to fly out of Mexico City back and forth to the USA (it’s cheaper) and usually plan a visit to this most original Spanish city in the Americas at least twice a year.
What’s to do here? Plenty. Including vibrant street life and good music.
Talavera tile gazing for starters. All the buildings in the historic center of the city are decorated and glazed with tiles harkening back to Moorish influences in Spain. If you want Spain in the New World with a touch of the Alhambra in Granada, come here.
Go antique shopping with La Quinta de San Antonio.
Eat. Traditional food preparation rotates around the seasons based on what is freshly available for ingredients. Now, in July and August, it’s Chiles en Nogada, This is a poblano chile, usually mild, cooked, slit, stuffed with a mix of pork, almonds, apples, peaches, raisins, pears, cinnamon and a lot of other things! The fruit and seasonings are also vaguely North African, another remnant of Moorish influence brought to Mexico. Get the best at El Mural de los Poblanos.
If you come to Puebla in October, you’ll be treated to Huaxmole, a hearty stew made with goat or pork. The essential ingredient is the seed from the guaje tree pod to give it the unique flavor.
Shop. Go to Uriarte for gorgeous talavera to set your table. Go to the new government operated Best of Puebla food shop on Palafox y Mendoza just off the Zocalo to stuff your bags with goodies. Get out on the street for weekend arts vendors selling everything from Huichol art to cemitas.
Visit Cholula, Pueblo Magico. There are two Cholulas: San Pedro Cholula and San Andres Cholula.
Go first to San Pedro, start with breakfast at Restaurant Ciudad Sagrada, garden haven with amazing food. Fortified, climb the pyramid to the Our Lady of the Remedies (Remedios), then watch the voladores. Meander the 16th century Franciscan churches. They say there are over 300 churches in Puebla.
Go shopping at the best folk art boutiques in town — La Monarca, Bosque de Oyamel — operated by Celia Ruiz.
Don’t miss OCHO30 for beer and botanas. No one else does!
Make your way to adjacent San Andres Cholula when you need a thirst quencher Michelada and your tummy starts to rumble. Oder the Michelada “sin salsa” — pure Victoria beer and lime juice, with a heavily salt and chile rimmed glass.
You will be amazed at the great kitsch, excellent hospitality and delicious food. Especially the pizza! Beware. It’s packed and you may have to wait. But, well worth it.
With owner Agustino and friends Celia and Peter on left. OCHO30 pizza.
Take your taxi back to your hotel and collapse.
Where to Stay: Descanseria Hotel for Business or Pleasure, owned by the El Mural de los Poblanos restaurant group, with excellent location, restaurant, ambience and prices.
How to Get There: ADO GL bus from Oaxaca to Puebla CAPU, about $45 USD. Estrella Roja bus directly from Mexico City airport to Puebla 4 Poniente bus terminal, about $16 USD.
Where to Eat Chiles en Nogadas: El Mural de los Poblanos.
Today, I return to Oaxaca, just in time for the last Guelaguetza performance and the best street life in Mexico.
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