We are mid-way through our second Chiapas tour. I always say, The right people always show up! and they do. We saw the same things, made the same stops, met the same people and each tour is different based on interests, questions, experience and personalities. We have four weavers and two three textile designers on this tour, plus two tag-along husbands who also contribute a lot to the dynamics of engagement.
We have traveled to Tenejapa for market day. We have meandered museums, designer shops, met Alberto Lopez Gomez, picnicked under the Maya crosses at Romerillo cemetery, and visited with humanitarian healer Sergio Castro Martinez. We met with weavers at a 30-Year old cooperative to talk about cultural appropriation and explored the life of the Lacondon indigenous group through the eyes of archeologist Frans Blom and his photographer wife Gertrude Duby Blom at Na Bolom.
This is a photo essay of our days here, so far. At this moment a fine rain shrouds San Cristobal. I’m sipping hot tea and warming up. I hope you can come with us in 2023! send an email if you are interested.
This textile woven in San Andres Larrainzar was on display at San Francisco International Airport in 2018. At the Sergio Castro Museo de Trajes Regionales de Chiapas
Behind a tall wooden gate about six blocks from the Zocalo at #38 Guadalupe Victoria is the Museo de Trajes Regionales. The private collection of traditional indigenous dress is an inspiration of Sergio Castro Martinez, a former Chiapas state senator (2000-2003), engineer and lay healer. Señor Castro gives personal guided visits in French, English, Spanish and Italian. At the same time, he also ministers to those in need of health care at no cost.
Sergio Castro Martinez, hero of Chiapas
As textile aficionados, we asked our B&B host Bela if she would contact Sr. Castro and make an appointment for us to visit the museum on the first day of our arrival in San Cristobal de las Casas. Visitors are asked to arrive at 6:00 p.m. As we approached, a woman exited the house with her head covered and accompanied by family members. Sr. Castro provides free care to people who have burn injuries and also for those with diabetes.
Several times during our guided visit, he excused himself to help a toddler brought in by his young mother, and then to care for an older man, and then to take urgent phone calls. He has been honored on multiple occasions by international and local civic and governmental groups for his humanitarian works.
San Andres Larrainzar huipil
The museum is a must-see for anyone interested in indigenous history, culture, and regional weaving/textile traditions. Sr. Castro explains in depth the differences between the tribal groups of the region, their languages, marriage and family customs, political and social systems, and the evolution and change in the costume design and materials used. He also, through his museum collection, shows the various special traje (dress) for the leaders of each village, as well as for weddings and other ceremonies. All the traditional dress in this region is created on fabric woven on back -trap looms.
This is an important orientation for anyone who wants to go out to explore the more accessible villages.
For example:
1. In the pueblo of San Juan Chamula, the traditional cape and skirt is made from black sheep wool that is woven on a back-strap loom. The long fibers are not cut but pulled out so that the garment has a wooly look to it, resembling the coat of the sheep itself. Sheep are family pets, used for their wool and are never eaten.
Sunday Market at San Juan Chamula
2. In the pueblo of Zinacantan the traditional color of the women’s chal (shawl) and agua (skirt), and the men’s poncho used to be pink or rose colored until about four years ago when there was a decided shift to the color blue, says Sr. Castro. The community grows flowers (there are greenhouses covering the mountain valley landscape) and this is reflected in the intricately embroidered (mostly by machine, some still by hand) floral and bird patterns on the cloth.
3. In Amantenango del Valle, the women create clay figures, mostly jaguars, chickens and roosters, but also ollas (jars), bowls, and other functional pieces. The women’s huipile is evolving. Traditional women wear a very geometric blouse with predominantly gold and red coloration. The newer design coming into vogue is a frilly collar that trims an embroidered bodice, all synthetic, shiny material. The ultimate adornment is a fancy pleated mandil or apron that goes over the top.
We also see traje from Aguatenango, Oxchul, Ocosingo, the intricate yellow, red and blue brocade diamonds from Las Margaritas, Pantelho, the red and black brocade weavings from San Andres Larrainzar. From Mayas Lacandones who live along the Usumacinta River that borders Guatemala, we learn the dress is bark that has been beaten and softened with a stick, then adorned with painted red colors representing the sun, moon and stars.
Visitors are asked to give a free-will offering (suggested minimum is 100 pesos per person)) for the explanation/tour that helps support Castro’s work. There is a small room that includes photographs of the severity of burns caused by carelessness, fireworks, and handheld firecrackers associated with ceremonies and rituals.
Rapid societal changes are having an impact on the weaving and its quality. There is widespread use of synthetic materials and alteration of styles and designs to suit the tourist market. Handwork is done on store-bought commercial fabric (synthetic polyester or cotton blend). It is no longer easy to find punto de cruz (needlepoint work) or hand embroidery using naturally dyed fibers.
This is the poorest state in Mexico. Many migrate in search of jobs. Younger people are shedding traditional dress as they desire to assimilate. Others move from villages to larger cities in search of employment.
Contact:
Sergio Castro Martinez, #38 Guadalupe Victoria, San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico. Phone: 967-678-4289. sergiocastrosc@gmail.com
We know the culture! We are locally owned and operated.
Eric Chavez Santiago is Zapotec, born and raised in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca.
Norma Schafer has been living in Oaxaca for almost 20 years.
We have deep connections with artists and artisans.
63% of our travelers repeat -- high ratings, high satisfaction.
Wide ranging expertise.
We give you a deep immersion to best know Oaxaca and Mexico.
Creating Connectionand Meaning between travelers and with indigenous artisans. Meet makers where they live and work. Join small groups of like-minded explorers. Go deep into remote villages. Gain insights. Support cultural heritage and sustainable traditions ie. hand weaving and natural dyeing. Create value and memories. Enjoy hands-on experiences. Make a difference.
What is a Study Tour: Our programs are learning experiences, and as such we talk with makers about how and why they create, what is meaningful to them, the ancient history of patterning and design, use of color, tradition and innovation, values and cultural continuity, and the social context within which they work. First and foremost, we are educators. Norma worked in top US universities for over 35 years and Eric founded the education department at Oaxaca’s textile museum. We create connection.
OCN Creates Student Scholarship at Oaxaca Learning Center Giving back is a core value. Read about it here!
Why We Left, Expat Anthology: Norma’s Personal Essay
Norma contributes personal essay, How Oaxaca Became Home
We Contribute Two Chapters!
Click image to order yours!
Meet Makers. Make a Difference
Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC has offered programs in Mexico since 2006. We have over 30 years of university, textile and artisan development experience. See About Us.
Programs can be scheduled to meet your independent travel plans. Send us your available dates.
Designers, retailers, wholesalers, curators, universities and others come to us to develop artisan relationships, customized itineraries, study abroad programs, meetings and conferences. It's our pleasure to make arrangements.
Select Clients *Abeja Boutique, Houston *Selvedge Magazine-London, UK *Esprit Travel and Tours *Penland School of Crafts *North Carolina State University *WARP Weave a Real Peace *Methodist University *MINNA-Goods *Smockingbird Kids *University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill
Oaxaca has the largest and most diverse textile culture in Mexico! Learn about it.
When you visit Oaxaca immerse yourself in our textile culture: How is indigenous clothing made, what is the best value, most economical, finest available. Suitable for adults only. Set your own dates.
One-Day Custom Tours: Tell Us When You Want to Go!
New--Ruta del Mezcal One-Day Tour.We start the day with pottery, visiting a master, then have lunch with a Traditional Oaxaca Cook who is the master of mole making. In Mitla, we meet with our favorite flying shuttle loom weaver, and then finish off with a mezcal tasting at a palenque you will NEVER find on your own! Schedule at your convenience!
January 13-21, 2024: Oaxaca Coast Textile Study Tour. Very popular! Get your deposit in to reserve. For intrepid travelers. Visit 7 back-strap loom weavers. Explore the culture of cloth and community. ONE SPACE OPEN!
We require 48-hour advance notice for map orders to be processed. We send a printable map via email PDF after your order is received. Please be sure to send your email address. Where to see natural dyed rugs in Teotitlan del Valle and layout of the Sunday Tlacolula Market, with favorite eating, shopping, ATMs. Click Here to Buy Map After you click, be sure to check PayPal to ensure your email address isn't hidden from us. We fulfill each map order personally. It is not automatic.
Dye Master Dolores Santiago Arrellanas with son Omar Chavez Santiago, weaver and dyer, Fey y Lola Rugs, Teotitlan del Valle
Curandero Sergio Castro Preserves Chiapas Textile Traditions
Behind a tall wooden gate about six blocks from the Zocalo at #38 Guadalupe Victoria is the Museo de Trajes Regionales. The private collection of traditional indigenous dress is an inspiration of Sergio Castro Martinez, a former Chiapas state senator (2000-2003), engineer and lay healer. Señor Castro gives personal guided visits in French, English, Spanish and Italian. At the same time, he also ministers to those in need of health care at no cost.
Sergio Castro Martinez, hero of Chiapas
As textile aficionados, we asked our B&B host Bela if she would contact Sr. Castro and make an appointment for us to visit the museum on the first day of our arrival in San Cristobal de las Casas. Visitors are asked to arrive at 6:00 p.m. As we approached, a woman exited the house with her head covered and accompanied by family members. Sr. Castro provides free care to people who have burn injuries and also for those with diabetes.
Several times during our guided visit, he excused himself to help a toddler brought in by his young mother, and then to care for an older man, and then to take urgent phone calls. He has been honored on multiple occasions by international and local civic and governmental groups for his humanitarian works.
San Andres Larrainzar huipil
The museum is a must-see for anyone interested in indigenous history, culture, and regional weaving/textile traditions. Sr. Castro explains in depth the differences between the tribal groups of the region, their languages, marriage and family customs, political and social systems, and the evolution and change in the costume design and materials used. He also, through his museum collection, shows the various special traje (dress) for the leaders of each village, as well as for weddings and other ceremonies. All the traditional dress in this region is created on fabric woven on back -trap looms.
This is an important orientation for anyone who wants to go out to explore the more accessible villages.
For example:
1. In the pueblo of San Juan Chamula, the traditional cape and skirt is made from black sheep wool that is woven on a back-strap loom. The long fibers are not cut but pulled out so that the garment has a wooly look to it, resembling the coat of the sheep itself. Sheep are family pets, used for their wool and are never eaten.
Sunday Market at San Juan Chamula
2. In the pueblo of Zinacantan the traditional color of the women’s chal (shawl) and agua (skirt), and the men’s poncho used to be pink or rose colored until about four years ago when there was a decided shift to the color blue, says Sr. Castro. The community grows flowers (there are greenhouses covering the mountain valley landscape) and this is reflected in the intricately embroidered (mostly by machine, some still by hand) floral and bird patterns on the cloth.
3. In Amantenango del Valle, the women create clay figures, mostly jaguars, chickens and roosters, but also ollas (jars), bowls, and other functional pieces. The women’s huipile is evolving. Traditional women wear a very geometric blouse with predominantly gold and red coloration. The newer design coming into vogue is a frilly collar that trims an embroidered bodice, all synthetic, shiny material. The ultimate adornment is a fancy pleated mandil or apron that goes over the top.
We also see traje from Aguatenango, Oxchul, Ocosingo, the intricate yellow, red and blue brocade diamonds from Las Margaritas, Pantelho, the red and black brocade weavings from San Andres Larrainzar. From Mayas Lacandones who live along the Usumacinta River that borders Guatemala, we learn the dress is bark that has been beaten and softened with a stick, then adorned with painted red colors representing the sun, moon and stars.
Visitors are asked to give a free-will offering (suggested minimum is 100 pesos per person)) for the explanation/tour that helps support Castro’s work. There is a small room that includes photographs of the severity of burns caused by carelessness, fireworks, and handheld firecrackers associated with ceremonies and rituals.
Rapid societal changes are having an impact on the weaving and its quality. There is widespread use of synthetic materials and alteration of styles and designs to suit the tourist market. Handwork is done on store-bought commercial fabric (synthetic polyester or cotton blend). It is no longer easy to find punto de cruz (needlepoint work) or hand embroidery using naturally dyed fibers.
This is the poorest state in Mexico. Many migrate in search of jobs. Younger people are shedding traditional dress as they desire to assimilate. Others move from villages to larger cities in search of employment.
Contact:
Sergio Castro Martinez, #38 Guadalupe Victoria, San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico. Phone: 967-678-4289. sergiocastrosc@gmail.com
Like this:
2 Comments
Posted in Cultural Commentary, Oaxaca Mexico art and culture, Textiles, Tapestries & Weaving, Travel & Tourism
Tagged blogsherpa, Chiapas, culture, curandero, fiber, language, Mayan, Mexico, Oaxaca, San Cristobal de las Casas, Sergio Castro Martinez, textiles, weaving