Tag Archives: backstrap loom

Oaxaca Coast Textile Study Tour: Discover the Mixteca Baja

Arrive on Tuesday, December 2, and depart on Wednesday, December 10, 2025 — 8 nights, 9 days in textile heaven! Home in time for winter holiday preparations. Please send us an email to tell us you are ready to join!

December is a perfect time to visit the Oaxaca coast. The weather is at its best, and the Pacific Ocean promises stunning views and abundant seafood. Here, we go deep and also cover a lot of territory. We give you an intimate, connecting experience. We spend time to know the culture. You will meet artisans in their homes and workshops, enjoy local cuisine, dip your hands in an indigo dye bath, and travel to remote villages where you may never get to independently.


This study tour focuses on the revival of ancient textile techniques and Oaxaca’s vast weaving culture that encompasses the use of natural dyes, back-strap loom weaving, drop spindle hand spinning using the malacate, and glorious, pre-Hispanic native cotton in warm brown called coyuchi, verde (green), and creamy white. We cover vast distances on secondary roads, traveling to secluded mountain villages. This tour is for the most adventurous textile travelers! At Oaxaca Cultural Navigator, we aim to give you an unparalleled and in-depth travel experience to participate and delve deeply into indigenous culture, folk art, and celebrations.
 
The cost is $3,595 per person for a shared room or $4,395 per person for a private room. See details and itinerary below. To register, please send an email to Norma Schafer at norma.schafer@icloud.com  Thank you.
 
This entire study tour is focused on exploring the textiles of Oaxaca’s Costa Chica. You arrive to and leave from Puerto Escondido (PXM), connecting through Mexico City or Oaxaca. You might like to read about why on the Oaxaca coast, it’s about the cloth, not the cut.
 
Villages along the coast and neighboring mountains were able to preserve their traditional weaving culture because of their isolation. The Spanish could not get into those villages until the late 18th century. Much is now the same as it was then. Stunning cotton is spun and woven into lengths of cloth connected with intricate needlework to form amazing garments. Beauty and poverty are twin sisters here.


What we do:
Visit weaving villages in Oaxaca and Guerrero
Meet back-strap loom weavers, natural dyers, spinner

See, touch, and smell native Oaxaca cotton — brown, green, natural
Participate in a Ridley sea turtle release with a sunset dinner on the beach
Swim in a rare bioluminescent lagoon

Visit local markets to experience daily life
Travel to remote regions to discover amazing cloth
Learn about Afro-Mexican identity on the Pacific Coast
Support indigenous artisans directly
Enjoy a beach vacation
 
Take this study tour to learn about:
Culture, history, and identity of cloth
Beating and spinning cotton and weaving with natural dyes
Native seed preservation and cultivation
Clothing design and construction, fashion adaptations
Symbols and meaning of regional textile designs
Choice of colors, designs, and fibers showcase each woman weaver’s aesthetic and identity
The work of women in pre-Hispanic Mexico and today

PRELIMINARY  ITINERARY
Tuesday, December 2: Fly to Puerto Escondido—overnight in Puerto Escondido, Group Welcome Dinner at 6:30 p.m. Please schedule flights to arrive accordingly. Meals included: Dinner
 
Wednesday, December 3:  After breakfast, spend the day lingering by the pool or exploring the strand. We depart in late afternoon to participate in the Ridley turtle release and explore the Manialtepec bioluminescence lagoon with a beach dinner.  Overnight in Puerto Escondido. Meals included: Breakfast and dinner
 
Thursday, December 4: After breakfast, we depart for Ometepec, Guerrero where we will spend the night.  We will stop in Pinotepa Nacional for lunch and meander through the town market.  Overnight in Ometepec. Meals included: Breakfast and lunch.
 
Friday, December 5: After breakfast, we go to Zacoalpan, a bygone Amusgo village where Jesus Ignacio and his family weave native coyuchi, green and natural white cotton to make traditional huipiles. They are rescuing designs from fragments of ancient cloth. Then, we have lunch in nearby Xochistlahuaca with an outstanding weaving cooperative that creates glorious, diaphanous textiles embellished with a palette of colorful designs reflecting the flora of the region. Overnight in Ometepec. Meals included: Breakfast and lunch.
 
Saturday, December 6: After breakfast, we head south along the coast highway, stopping at the Afro-Mexican Museum to learn about the rich cultural history and traditions of Mexicans whose roots are from Africa and the slave trade. We continue to Pinotepa Nacional for a late lunch and check into our hotel. Here we will enjoy an expoventa and demonstration with embroiderers from a town several hours away. Overnight in Pinotepa Nacional. Meals included: Breakfast and lunch.
 
Sunday, December 7:  After breakfast, we head up the road to the weaving village of San Juan Colorado for a home-cooked lunch and visit two women’s cooperatives working in natural dyes, hand-spinning, and back-strap loom weaving. Overnight in Pinotepa Nacional.  Meals included: Breakfast and lunch
 
Monday, December 8:  After breakfast, we go back up the mountain to the village of Pinotepa de Don Luis to meet noted weavers who work with naturally dyed cotton. Here, we will see jicara gourd carvers who make jewelry and serving containers. We have lunch with Tixinda Cooperative members who are licensed to harvest the purple snail dye. In this village, the almost extinct caracol purpura snail is the traditional color accent for many textiles. Overnight in Pinotepa Nacional. Meals included: Breakfast and lunch
 
Tuesday, December 9: After breakfast, we return to Puerto Escondido, a two-and-a-half-hour van ride. The rest of the day is on your own to explore, relax, and pack.  We meet in the early evening for our Grand Finale Dinner. Overnight in Puerto Escondido. Meals included: Breakfast and dinner.
 
Wednesday, December 10: Depart for home and arrive in plenty of time to prepare for the winter holidays. Meals included: None.
 
Note: We suggest you arrive a day early (your own hotel expense) to avoid any unforeseen winter flight delays, and stay later if you wish to enjoy the beach.


Your Oaxaca Cultural Navigator: Eric Chavez Santiago
Eric Chavez Santiago is a Oaxaca Cultural Navigator partner with Norma Schafer. He joined us in 2022.  Eric is an expert in Oaxaca and Mexican textiles and folk art with a special interest in artisan development and promotion. He is a weaver and natural dyer by training and a fourth-generation member of a distinguished weaving family, the Fe y Lola textile group. He and his wife Elsa Sanchez Diaz started Taller Teñido a Mano dye studio where they produce naturally dyed yarn skeins and textiles for worldwide distribution. He is trilingual, speaking Zapotec, Spanish and English and is a native of Teotitlan del Valle. He is a graduate of Anahuac University, founder of the Museo Textil de Oaxaca education department, and former managing director of the Harp Helu Foundation folk-art gallery Andares del Arte Popular. He has intimate knowledge of local traditions, culture, and community and personally knows all the artisans we visit on this tour.


Oaxaca Cultural Navigator Founder Norma Schafer may participate in all or part of this tour.
We have invited a noted cultural anthropologist to travel with us. She did her thesis in a nearby textile village and has worked in the region for the past 15 years. She knows the textile culture and people intimately, too. Together, we learn about and discuss motifs, lifestyle, endangered species, quality, and value of direct support.



Some Vocabulary and Terms
Caracol Purpura
Coyuchi
Malacate
Indigo or Añil
Cochineal
Map of the Region
 
Who Should Attend
Explorers of indigenous cloth, native fibers
Collectors, curators, and cultural appreciators
Textile and fashion designers
Retailers, wholesalers, buyers
Weavers, embroiderers, dyers, and sewists
Photographers and artists who want inspiration
Anyone who loves cloth, culture, and collaboration
 
Policies — Reservations and Cancellations.  A $500 non-refundable deposit will guarantee your place. The balance is due in two equal payments. The second payment of 50% of the balance is due on or before July 1, 2025. The third payment, 50% balance, is due on or before October 1, 2025. We accept payment using Zelle or a credit card. For a Zelle transfer, there is no service fee.  We add a 4% service fee to use a credit card. We will send you a request for funds to make your deposit when you tell us you are ready to register. Registration Form.
 
After October 1, 2025, there are no refunds. If you cancel on or before October 1, 2025, we will refund 50% of your deposit received to date (less the $500 non-refundable deposit). After that, there are no refunds UNLESS we cancel for any reason. If we cancel, you will receive a full 100% refund.
Required–Travel Health/Accident Insurance: We require that you carry international accident/health insurance that includes $50,000+ of emergency medical evacuation insurance. Check out Forbes Magazine for best travel insurance options. https://www.forbes.com/advisor/travel-insurance/best-travel-insurance/
Proof of insurance must be sent at least 45 days before departure.
.
Be certain your passport has at least six months on it before it expires from the date you enter Mexico! It’s a Mexico requirement.
 
 
Cost to Participate
$3,395 shared double room with private bath (sleeps 2)
$4,195 for a single supplement (private room and bath, sleeps 1)



Your Oaxaca Cultural Navigator: Eric Chavez Santiago
Eric Chavez Santiago is a Oaxaca Cultural Navigator partner with Norma Schafer. He joined us in 2022.  Eric is an expert in Oaxaca and Mexican textiles and folk art with a special interest in artisan development and promotion. He is a weaver and natural dyer by training and a fourth-generation member of a distinguished weaving family, the Fe y Lola textile group. He and his wife Elsa Sanchez Diaz started Taller Teñido a Mano dye studio where they produce naturally dyed yarn skeins and textiles for worldwide distribution. He is trilingual, speaking Zapotec, Spanish and English and is a native of Teotitlan del Valle. He is a graduate of Anahuac University, founder of the Museo Textil de Oaxaca education department, and former managing director of the Harp Helu Foundation folk-art gallery Andares del Arte Popular. He has intimate knowledge of local traditions, culture, and community and personally knows all the artisans we visit on this tour.


Oaxaca Cultural Navigator Founder Norma Schafer may participate in all or part of this tour.
We have invited a noted cultural anthropologist to travel with us. She did her thesis in a nearby textile village and has worked in the region for the past 15 years. She knows the textile culture and people intimately, too. Together, we learn about and discuss motifs, lifestyle, endangered species, quality, and value of direct support.

Some Vocabulary and Terms

Map of the Region

Caracol Purpura

Coyuchi

Malacate

Indigo or Añil

Cochineal

Who Should Attend
Explorers of indigenous cloth, native fibers; collectors, curators, and cultural appreciators; textile and fashion designers; retailers, wholesalers, buyers; weavers, embroiderers, dyers, and sewists; photographers and artists who want inspiration; anyone who loves cloth, culture, and collaboration

Full Registration Policies, Procedures and Cancellations– Please READ
Reservations and Cancellations.  A $500 non-refundable deposit is required to guarantee your place. The balance is due in two equal payments. The second payment of 50% of the balance is due on or before June 1, 2025. The third payment, 50% balance, is due on or before September 1, 2025. We accept payment using a Zelle transfer or credit card. For a Zelle transfer, there is no service fee.  We add a 4% service fee to use a credit card. We will send you a request for funds to make your deposit when you tell us you are ready to register.


After September 1, 2025, there are no refunds. If you cancel on or before September 1, 2024, we will refund 50% of your deposit received to date (less the $500 non-refundable deposit). After that, there are no refunds UNLESS we cancel for any reason. If we cancel, you will receive a full 100% refund.


Required–Travel Health/Accident Insurance: We require that you carry international accident/health insurance that includes $50,000+ of emergency medical evacuation insurance. Check out Forbes Magazine for best travel insurance options. https://www.forbes.com/advisor/travel-insurance/best-travel-insurance/ Please send proof of insurance at least 45 days before departure.

About COVID. Covid is still with us and new variants continue to arise. We recommend that you wear face masks on the plane and in crowded areas during your trip and after arrival. Please also bring COVID test kits with you just in case! We ask this to keep all travelers safe, and to protect indigenous populations who are at higher risk.


Be sure your passport has at least six months on it before it expires from the date you enter Mexico! It’s a Mexican requirement.

Mother’s Day Tidbits + New in the Shop

Mother’s Day, started by social activist Anna Jarvis in the early 20th century to honor her own mother, has now become the second most popular holiday in the United States for gift-giving, following Christmas. Groups of mothers whose sons had fought or died on opposite sides of the American Civil War were involved in the early development of the holiday.  Jarvis’ mother was a peace activist who wanted to improve the lives of other mothers. In 1914, President Woodrow Wilson officially made Mother’s Day a national holiday. In 1918, the fledgling Florists Telegraph Delivery group (FTD) began promoting Say it With Flowers, for their Mother’s Day Campaign. They could not keep white carnations, the official Mother’s Day flower, in stock. Hallmark began creating and producing Mother’s Day cards in the early 1920’s. Gift-giving became a central part of Mother’s Day, too, since its inception.

Mother’s Day is always the second Sunday in May. We have clothing, home goods, jewelry, and rugs in the shop to tickle any mother’s fancy. In fact, you don’t have to be a mother to participate in this celebration. All women deserve to be recognized for our accomplishments and attributes, whether we are married, single, with or without children, or who use another pronoun to distinguish themselves!

We will get anything you choose into the mail ASAP. Just say to your favorite recipient: We are gifting you with something special from Oaxaca Cultural Navigator and it will be arriving soon! And, remember, use your credit card or PayPal — no fees to you when you purchase from the shop.

www.shop.oaxacaculture.com

Just listed, French knot blouses made by Francisca in Amatenango del Valle, Chiapas. Every stitch is impeccably made by hand — there is not one bit of machine stitching in this garment!

Below is an exceptional, rare huipil from Pueblo Mixteco de la Costa. It is difficult to find a back-strap loom woven garment in this village now. It is discontinuous weft, also known as supplementary weft or pick-up weaving. The base cloth is cotton and the intricate designs are woven with synthetic thread.

San Andres Larrainzar and Magdalena Aldama, Chiapas: Textiles, A Conduit to Culture

Our last road trip on the Chiapas Textile Tour: Deep Into the Maya World takes us to the Maya highlands villages of San Andres Larrainzar and Magdalena Aldama. Many feel that both these villages produce some of the most outstanding textiles of the region. Here, we visit extended family cooperatives where both women and men weave, and a flying shuttle loom workshop that employs over 80 men in a remote village far from the center of town.

Worthy news: We all tested COVID-negative before leaving Chiapas and returning to the USA. This was the fourth tour this season where every participant tested negative.

It is a delight to be here and experience how the textiles are a roadmap to the culture. Weavings incorporate symbols of everyday life and spiritual beliefs. We understand more by seeing, sharing, and learning. We know that for women, the work of weaving is incorporated into other daily activities of cooking, caring for children and elderly family members, attending to the needs of husbands and friends.

Registration Open for 2023 Chiapas Textile Tour: Deep Into the Maya World

How long does it take to weave a huipil? we ask.

Time is a dimension here, not a precise measurement. Life is governed by the rising and setting of the sun, the rotation of the earth, the alignment of moon and stars. The answer to the question is tentative. Oh, maybe eight or nine months, a woman says. Each day is different. She picks up her loom, ties one end to a tree trunk and cinches the waist tie around her mid-section while watching the sheep or goats and children, all is women’s work. Then, she picks it up again while the baby is napping or the husband goes to the field to plant or harvest corn, beans and squash. Work is intermittent and unpredictable.

Chiapas is the poorest state in Mexico. Highlands villages are isolated at the far reaches of winding mountain roads. Poverty keeps people in their place. They live in cinder block houses that have no heat. The floor can be packed earth. A wood-fueled cooking fire gives off a smokey essence that penetrates cotton and wool on the loom The fire is a source of light from which to weave as the sun sets.

Perhaps there is an elementary school there with access to a sixth grade education. Yet from this, the creativity of the human spirit rises and some of the most extraordinary textiles emerge.

My advice is to our travelers is to observe and understand. We do not come here to judge. We can compare values, lifestyle and culture in order to appreciate and explore similarities and differences.

I want to share with you this photo-essay of our last road trip together. I hope you enjoy it.

From San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas: Textile Sale

My modus operandi is to visit the homes and cooperatives of the finest weavers wherever I travel in Mexico and elsewhere. I can’t possibly wear everything I love. But that does not deter me from buying to support what they do. We hear time and again from weavers on our textile tours that the pandemic has wrought economic havoc on their lives and there have been few if any customers who come to visit and buy. Without this support, extraordinary artisans will give up their work and turn to something more economically sustainable — servers and cooks in restaurants, hotel maids, shop girls. The men who make the looms, leave to work in the USA to provide food for their families.*

We don’t want that to happen! So, here I am again, with a stash of beautiful textiles to offer to you for sale.

Buy now. I’ll be mailing after April 1 when I return to the USA.

How to Buy: mailto:norma.schafer@icloud.com Tell me the item you want by number. Send me your mailing address. Tell me how you want to pay. Choose one of three ways.

You can pay one of three ways: 1) with Zelle (account number 919-274-6194) and no service fee; 2) with Venmo or 3) with PayPal. If you choose either #2 or #3, we add on a 3% service fee which is their charge to us, and we will send a Request for Funds to your email address. The request will include the cost of the garment + $12 mailing. If you want more than one piece, I’m happy to combine mailing. I’ll be mailing from Santa Cruz, CA, when I return to the USA after April 1, 2022.

SOLD 1. Magdalena Aldama huipil. Cotton. 25” wide x 29” long. $450 + mailing. a stained glass window for Joan!
#2. Venustiano Carranza gauze huipil, 24” wide x 36” long. Cotton. $195 + mailing.
SOLD 3. Venustiano Carranza huipil, 23” wide x 35” long. Cotton. $195 + mailing
SOLD 4. Venustiano Carranza, Chiapas shawl. Cotton. 14-3/4” wide x 56” long. pair with the hot pink huipil. $85 + mailing.
SOLD 5. San Lorenzo Zinacantan, land of flowers, free-form machine embroidered blouse. 21” wide x 30” long. Polyester. $120 + mailing.
SOLD 6. 29” wide x 23” long. Rayon with a subtle hint of glitter. Chiapas. Backstrap loom. $135 + mailing.
#7. Aguacatenango, Chiapas French knot embroidered blouse. Size M-L. 23” wide across embroidered bodice. 25” long. Sleeve length from shoulder 21” $135 + mailing.
This short sleeve green bodice blouse is also available, Size XL $135 + mailing gorgeous smocking

*Agustin, the husband of my friend Francisca who made this blouse (above), left almost a year ago to work in a Chinese restaurant in High Point, NC, where he is washing dishes. He will be there another year to pay off debt incurred during the pandemic. She is at home with her daughter and mother.

SOLD 8. Cream on cream from Venustiano Carranza. 23” wide x 26” long. Loose drape. Gauze weave. 4-Selvedge edge. $135 + mailing.
SOLD 9. White on white. 4-Selvedge edge. Gauze. Venustiano Carranza. 19” wide x 23” long. $110 + mailing.
SOLD 10. White on white gauze. 4-Selvedge edge. Venustiano Carranza. $110. 23”wide x 26” long. To Olive
SOLD #11. White on white. Gauze. 4-Selvedge edge. Venustiano Carranza. $135 + mailing. 22” wide x 23” long.

San Juan Colorado, Oaxaca, Where Textiles Tell Stories

San Juan Colorado is up the mountain about an hour-and-half from Pinotepa Nacional along the Costa Chica. It’s at the end of the road, so secluded that the Spanish Conquest and proselytizing priests didn’t reach here until much later. It’s why traditional backstrap loom weaving and natural dyeing have survived over the years.

Mostly women weave here, but some men are also learning. Girls start when they are around ten years old. Native wild preHispanic cotton grows here, too — caramel colored brown, mint green, creamy white make up the palette. White thread can also be dyed red with cochineal, blue with indigo, yellow with wild marigold, brown with nuts and bark. Brazilwood turns white cotton to a fucsia hot pink. Cooking cotton in an iron pot dulls the color. White becomes a soft grey.

We visit one of the oldest cooperatives, Jini Nuu. We gather in the courtyard under the shade of an almond tree The bark is also a dye material. Yuridia and Verónica welcome us. The older women are sitting on the ground, legs tucked under them, bare toes peeking out from their posahuanco wrap-around skirts, spinning cotton with the drop spindle, picking seeds from the cotton to get ready to spin it, and weaving on the backstrap loom.

Our group sits down for lunch. We are served tamales stuff with a local specialty of mangrove mussels and another type stuffed with chicken. There is a spicy beef broth soup, tasty fruit waters, avocado, Oaxaca queso fresco, and plenty of made in the comal tortillas. We are in foodie heaven. Our desert is a shot of Piedra de Alma mezcal.


Mid-afternoon we cross the village to visit Camerina and the Las Sanjuaneras cooperative where they weave beautiful gauze fabric and work only in natural dyes. Their oldest member is age 81 and their youngest is in her 30’s. Cooperatives are important social and economic organizations, offering ways to marketi and also provide mutual support.

Let us know if you want to go in 2023

Designs woven into the cloth are selected by each weaver. They I clise the flora and fauna of the region. Since we are near the coast, this includes crab, turtles, ducks, birds, stars, rainbows, mountains, scorpions, pine trees, corn plants, chickens. The row of women figures holding hands depicts solidarity. Shoulder decorations of zigzag depict the Feathers of Quetzalcoatl — the serpent god. The double-headed eagle has special significance: the duality of life, ting-hangs, man-woman, fertility.