Tag Archives: huipil

Pop-Up Sale: Norma’s Collection + Rugs, Teotitlan del Valle

When: Saturday, February 22, 2025

Time: 11:00 am to 3:00 pm

Where: Norma’s Casita, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca

RSVP: WhatsApp or text +1 919-274-6194. Send an RSVP and I’ll send directions.

Payments: We accept pesos, dollars, Zelle transfers. With PayPal, Venmo, and credit cards we add a 4% transaction fee.

Spend $100-299 and we will give you a $10 credit off your taxi ride, or $25 credit for anything over $300. Many choices for $20-$50 USD. Make sure you reserve your taxi for a round-trip. We are unable to get you a local taxi to return to Oaxaca. Share the ride and come with friends.

These are examples of what we are selling. They will be similar but not exactly the same. Textiles will be from San Mateo Del Mar woven by Francisca Palafox and her daughters, from Pinotepa de Don Luis, San Juan Colorado and other Oaxaca villages where we have traveled. Most are now too large for me to wear. There are also handwoven pieces from Guatemala where I have just returned. There are also textile yardage and jewelry. Rugs are woven by Tenido a Mano Studio and Galeria Fe y Lola. Refreshments available for including handmade tamales.

We are returning to Guatemala in 2026. If you are interested in joining us for a 10-day textile focused adventure and want more information, please email me.

Sale from Norma’s Taos Collection

We haven’t had any snow in Northern New Mexico since I arrived on November 19. It’s been sunny and unseasonably warm, with temperatures rising to the low 50’s. Great walking weather. At night, it dips down to the 30’s, just perfect for sleeping. I’m returning to Oaxaca on December 30, in time for our January 2, 2025, Women’s Creative Writing Workshop Retreat (we can accommodate one more person, if you are a last-minute decider!). My plan is to return to NM in early April to do my taxes and then go back until July. This is driven by (primarily) politics and climate. Since I’ve removed myself from WAPO and NYT alerts, and selectively reading Bulwark commentators, I’ve been feeling very calm. Mostly, I’m in a self-imposed news black hole. I know I have my head in the sand and one of these days, I’ll take it out and re-emerge into the world of fighting for justice, equality, and women’s health. For now, I’m content to look west out my kitchen window at the Rio Grande Gorge and east out my living room window at Taos Mountain, just barely snow-capped.

When I got to Taos I realized how many Oaxaca and Chiapas clothes were in my collection, most that I haven’t worn! I purchased them for their beauty, intricacy of weaving techniques, fine embroidery, and use of natural dyes. I have been fortunate to have met most of the people who made these garments. They live in remote villages and their families depend on the women for extra income that pays for health care, education, and food. One of my motivators, always, has been (and continues to be) to support indigenous makers throughout Mexico who are working to preserve traditional hand work.

This week, I’ll be offering a select part of my collection for sale. Scroll down. There are 17 pieces, priced at or below cost. More to come later this week. Keep your eyes open!

How to Buy: Send me an email to tell me which item(s) you want BY NUMBER and by name of item. Send me your name, mailing address, email address, and phone number. Tell me if you want to purchase using a Zelle transfer or a credit card. If you use a credit card, we add a 4% service fee. There is no extra fee for using Zelle. If you want Zelle, please tell me how your Zelle account is registered. For mailing, I will add a $14 packing and mailing charge. I am NOT putting these items for sale in the SHOP — only here!

Please purchase before December 18, 2024, when I’ll be preparing for the winter holidays and returning to Oaxaca for several months.

Thank you!

#1. From the Purepecha village of Ahuiran in Michoacan, Mexico, this amazing backstrap loomed poncho is embellished with dyed turkey feathers and fringes. It is made by Albertine Bautista Caballero, as talented as her more famous (now deceased) sister Cecelia Bautista Caballero, who created this pre-Hispanic method of individually tying the feathers individually into the warp threads. Measures 30″ wide x 30″ long. Sides are open. I could say, one size fits most! Just slip it over your head. Great holiday dressing. $395

SOLD. #2. A ruana is a pre-Hispanic garment that is similar to a poncho, but the front is open and the back is closed. This 100% hand-woven ruana features two 17″ wide panels in the front, and the back measures 34″ across. Length is 36″ front and back. The sides are open. The front panels can hang loose or you can drape one or both across your shoulders. This piece is from San Andres Larrainzar, Chiapas, from a cooperative that does very fine work. $225

#3. In Chenalho, Chiapas, this intricate embroidery is called dog paw. I’ve watched women do this during our visits to a cooperative on the outskirts of the village. It takes more time than you can imagine. The inset bits of color create a stained glass effect in this textile. The embroidery is on striped commercial fabric that is a combo of cotton and polyester. This is exactly what women in the village wear. They do not make anything differently for the tourist market, as many villages do. Measures 28″ wide x 22″ long. $195

#4. Hand embroidered and back-strap loom woven blusa from the village of Jamiltapec on the Oaxaca Coast. The fabric is embellished with figures woven into the cloth. The bodice is decorated with embroidery designs specific to this area. Measures 24″ wide x 23″ long. $65

#5. The cross-stitched bodice and sleeves set off this stunning blouse from Michoacan. 100% cotton. This textile is top-quality with dense and detailed hand-work. Measure 22″ wide x 27″ long. $145

#6. This amazing and colorful (tangerine and pink) huipil is woven on the backstrap loom in San Juan Colorado on the Oaxaca Coast. We know about a designer who has replicated similar, calls it a kaftan and sells it online for over $750 USD. This is a fun dress to wear in summer; perfect for winter with a white heat-tech long sleeve T-shirt for extra warmth. Measures 23″ wide x 40″ long. $285

#7. Jewel tones define this blusa embroidered in the Oaxaca Isthmus in the village San Juan Guichicovi. Yes, it’s embroidered by machine, but this is different. Each seamstress embroiderer guides the needle by hand. It’s a free-form process that we consider made by hand. Measures 19-1/2″ wide x 23-1/2″ long. $145

#8 is from one of the finest weaving villages in Oaxaca, Pinotepa de Don Luis, high in the mountains above the coast. This is a six-weft piece joined with a very intricate stitch called randa. All the figures are woven into the cloth — called supplementary weft. Woven by Monica, the daughter-in-law of the purple snail dyer Don Habacuc. Measure 26″ wide x 37″ long. $385

#9. There are extraordinary embroiderers in villages all along the Oaxaca coast. A traditional motif is the double-headed eagle, replicated here in the center. They are flanked by two roosters. This is all hand-work. The red ribbon adds pizzazz. Base fabric is excellent quality commercial manta cotton. Measures 22″ wide x 38″ long. $65.

SOLD. #10. A graphic beauty, this all-cotton blouse is woven on the back-strap loom in San Andres Larrainzar, Chiapas, from a cooperative we have been visiting for several years. Measures 23-1/4″ wide x 27″ long. $85

SOLD. #11. Khadi Oaxaca is an innovator in Oaxaca clothing design. They use the chakra (India’s spinning wheel) to process native white and coyuchi (brown) cotton into thread for weaving. This piece combines a warp of white thread with coyuchi cotton weft. The texture and softness is amazing. Measures 26″ wide x 34″ long. $195

#12. Embroidered whimsy from the Oaxaca coast. Look at the amazing detail on the collar with all the sea and land creatures from the neighborhood. On very good quality white manta cotton. Note the ribbon embellishments. 23″ wide x 24″ long. $125

#13. Ditto from #12. A different colorway in sunshine yellow with a square collar. Measures 24″ wide x 25″ long. $125

#13. This dress is hand-woven on the back strap loom in Zinacantan, Chiapas. It is an open weave which adds interest and texture. Here, you have two dresses in one. It’s reversible! Cotton. Suggest machine wash on cold separately or in a mesh laundry bag. 23-1/2×38. $125

SOLD 14. The Rina Dress. Rina is a weaver, dyer and designer. She is part of the Arte y Seda weaving family in Teotitlan del Valle. She designed, dyed (with wild marigold), and sewed this beautiful dress with hand-made shell button. The waist is 32” in circumference. The bodice is 22″ wide and 46” long. $165

#15. Fuschine dyed shawl, handwoven on the back strap loom in Santiago Ixtlayutla, near Pinotepa de Don Luis on the Oaxaca coast. Fuschine is not a natural dye but coveted by locals for its purple color. The designs in the cloth are woven with silk. This protein fiber absorbs the dye. The fabric is then carefully folded while wet so that the color intentionally bleeds mimicking the design on the cloth. Measures 24″ wide x 82″ long. $195

#16. Fuschine dye huipil, with stunning patterning woven into the cloth. Note the simple and beautifully executed randa (joining stitch). See #15 more more detailed description of the dye process. Measures 31″ wide x 48″ long. $495.

SOLD. #17. It’s rare to find this hand-woven textile from the Oaxaca coast. It is no longer being woven in its village of origin. We found this in a trunk on our last visit to Pinotepa Nacional — in perfect condition. A true collector’s piece and definitely wearable. Measures 40″ wide x 38″ long. $245

At Original, Textiles from Chiapas Tell Stories

A group of us spent five days at Original this past week. This is a textile extravaganza in Mexico City that honors indigenous weavers and designers from throughout Mexico. With over 1,000 artisans showing and selling what they make, to say the event was mind-boggling is an understatement. The show also featured pottery, lacquerware, copper, basketry, jewelry, and so much more.

We needed five days to do justice to Original! The event was held at Los Pinos in Chapultepec Park. It is the former residence and grounds of Mexico’s past presidents. When Lopez Obrador took office five years ago, he converted the mansions and grounds into a cultural center accessible to all.

Prominently featured were the textile makers of Chiapas. They work on backstrap looms as wide as their hips. Each finished length of cloth is then meticulously sewn together using intricate needle stitching that when complete looks like embroidery — but it isn’t!

Chiapas Textile Study Tour 2024

A highlight was our meeting with Alberto Lopez Gomez, a weaver, designer, and one of the volunteer event organizers. We sat together under the shade of a large tree just beyond his exhibition booth while he showed us an extraordinary teal blue and black collector’s huipil and explained the meaning of each symbol in the cloth.

This particular huipil tells a story that is significant in his village, which is part of the municipality of Magdalena Aldama, one of the most accomplished weaving villages in the region.

Alberto talks about how important snakes are in Maya symbolism, and points to the first row of design in this huipil. Then he shows us Señor de la Tierra, Lord of the Earth holding up the universe. The next image is one of a bat, which is a messenger in his culture; after that is the corn god named Culiacán, then the sun, mother and father, representing the family.

There are images of clay pitchers used to water the field crops, and triangles denoting the four cardinal points.

Diamonds also represent flowers, corn, and large stars that depict the cycle of planting. Farmers arise in the pre-dawn and are guided by the stars. When stars smaller in the sky, ancient farmers knew the rainy season coming and it was time to plant.

Snakes, worms, and caterpillars are highly respected in Maya mythology and used for traditional medicine. Mayas also honor the underworld, and this is also reflected in the designs.

In this huipil, we also see white orchids, which are gathered in the mountains by the elderly. They are the only ones allowed to collect these. The orchids are the border design around the collar.

Chiapas Textile Study Tour 2024

If a garment has fringes or tassels, these represent the braided hair of the women. This particular textile is very special, Alberto says, because it represents the story of his pueblo.

He now works with over 200 weavers in various municipalities in Chiapas.

We visit Alberto in his private home studio in San Cristobal de las Casas during our Chiapas Textile Study Tour. We have spaces open and invite you to join us as we explore the Maya textile culture of southern Mexico this February 2024.

Fireworks Sale: 9 Huipiles from San Juan Colorado, Oaxaca

Happy July 4th everyone! Here in Taos, New Mexico, the town has lifted the fireworks ban and the celebrations are popping with live music everywhere. I hope you are celebrating what it means to live in a democracy and how we can best protect our personal rights that were heretofore guaranteed by the federal government and past Supreme Court rulings.

Oops! one more for sale! and it’s gorgeous!

SOLD #10 We can send you this one immediately. Measures 32” wide x 36” long. dyed with indigo, wild marigold and mahogany. $255 plus $14 mailing

I leave for Oaxaca on July 20 and return on August 5 for our Summer Mountain Textile Tour. Eager to be returning there. If you make a huipil purchase, I will bring it back with me to mail to you after August 5.

We are offering Brisaida’s weavings at below retail. Why? To encourage women weavers like her to find direct markets for their work. Remote Oaxaca villages like San Juan Colorado on the Oaxaca coast where Brisaida lives, was born and raised, have little access to selling directly to collectors. They often rely on middlemen to come and buy up their work below fair market rate to resell in Oaxaca City. Their husbands work subsistence farming with no chance to sell, raising crops solely to feed the family. The only cash income for the family might be from what the women are able to make and sell or from remittances. Brisaida reached out to me to ask me to help her and I said YES.

These are garments that you can wear with pride that are completely handwoven on the back-strap loom and dyed with natural materials. They are lightweight and gauzy, perfect for the heat. with your purchase, you support indigenous weavers who live in remote areas where tourists rarely travel. You are supporting sustainable entrepreneurism. As soon as a piece sells, I send funds directly to Brisaida. She is among the finest weavers of this village and a member of Las Sanjuaneras cooperative.

How to Buy:  mailto:norma.schafer@icloud.com Tell me the item you want by number. Send me your mailing address. Tell me how you want to pay. Choose one of three ways.

You can pay one of three ways: 1) with a Zelle transfer and no service fee; 2) with Venmo or 3) with PayPal. If you choose either #2 or #3, we add on a 3% service fee which is their charge to us, and we will send a Request for Funds to your email address. The request will include the cost of the garment + $14 mailing. If you want more than one piece, I’m happy to combine mailing. Tell me which payment method you prefer and I’ll send you more information. Buy now and I’ll bring your garment back with me on August 5 when I return from Oaxaca to New Mexico.

A Note from Brisaida

My name is Brisaida Garcia Quiroz, and I’m 34 years old. I learned to weave on the back strap loom at age 10 and I am very proud to do this work. I am happy and love the process of creating the cloth and using natural dyes on cotton that I often hand spin myself from pre-Hispanic native Oaxaca cotton. I am an indigenous woman and with the weaving I do, I know I can help my children get ahead. I am thankful that you are able to help me.

SOLD. Blusa #1: Indigo, with supplementary weft (called brocado) with natural white cotton and cotton dyed with mahogany bark. Size is 27″ long x 29″ wide. $235 plus mailing.

SOLD. Blusa #2: Indigo with supplementary weft dyed with cochineal, mahogany, wild marigold, plus natural white cotton. 29″ long x 30″ wide. $235 plus mailing.

SOLD. Blusa #3: Dyed with indigo and iron oxide. 28″ wide x 28″ long. $200 plus mailing.

SOLD. Blusa #4: Dyed with indigo and Brazil wood, and supplementary weft dyed with natural white cotton, mahogany, wild marigold and indigo. 28″ long x 29″ wide. $235 plus mailing.

SOLD. Blusa #5: Dyed with iron oxide and indigo, with supplementary weft dyed with indigo and native white cotton. 29″ long x 26″ wide. $235 plus mailing.

SOLD. Huipil #6: Raw indigo is uncooked leaves which are rubbed on the cotton to get this soft green tone. This huipil is embellished with a supplementary weft dyed with the shell of the cacao (chocolate) bean and native white cotton. 43″ long x 32″ wide. $298 plus mailing.

SOLD Huipil #7: Dyed with wild marigold and the supplementary weft is dyed with hand-spun white cotton and guapinol. 37″ long x 31 inches wide. $298 plus mailing. Liliana

SOLD. Huipil #8: Mixed colors with natural dyes of indigo, iron oxide and wild marigold. 37″ long x 27″ wide. $247 plus mailing.

SOLD Huipil #9: Dyed with mahogany, with the brocade supplementary weft threads dyed with natural white cotton and wild marigold. 39″ long x 29″ wide. $298 plus mailing.
NOTE: Please measure for fit; width is across the front of the garment, side seam to side seam. All sales final. Thank you.

Life Update and All Things Mexico Spring Clearance

Here in Northern New Mexico the winds are gusting. While some of the early spring wildfires are contained, more are igniting, mostly from lightening strikes. Near Georgia O’Keeffe’s home in Abiquiu a new fire erupted in El Rito, a small mountain community about 30 miles from where I live. Scary stuff. Smoke obliterated the mountains and I had to wear a face mask in the car. The air smelled like a campfire. We are in severe drought conditions and global warming is taking its toll. A couple of weeks ago, an unusual early spring hurricane hit the Oaxaca coast hard. My friends reported lots of devastation. Climate change is wrecking havoc.

Meanwhile, I’m waiting for my small house to be completed on the Rio Grande Gorge. everything is delayed and costs have soared. It was supposed to be May, then amended to the end of June. I’m hoping for this so I can close, get my mortgage and return to Oaxaca in time for the Summer Textile Mountain Tour. Hoping this will happen, though not sure. (We can still register you — there are a few open spaces — register by June 20 and get 10% off!)

Celebrate summer with a colorful hand-embroidered shoulder bag. 9×10” with 42” strap, lined with zipper. Specify by color. Was $56 each. Discounted to $29 each.

I’m still culling my collection and will continue to do so as I prepare for another move. Here are some wonderful pieces to offer to you today.

To Buy: Please send me an email with your name, email address, mailing address and include the Item Number you wish to purchase. We add $14 flat rate to mail and we are happy to combine orders in one shipment. Tell me if you want to pay with a Zelle transfer (no service fee) or use PayPal or Venmo (with a 3% service fee). For PayPal or Venmo, I will send you a request for funds. Thanks very much. -Norma

#1 Las Sanjuaneras blusa. natural dyes, indigo and banana bark. 30” wide x 23” long. $225
SOLD #2 Las Sanjuaneras blusa. Índigo and mahogany. 30” wide x 27” long. $225.
SOLD #3 Tote/weekend bag, indigo and leather, lined, zipper, interior pockets. Wool tapestry hand-woven. $155.
SOLD #4 Coyuchi cotton huipil from Zacoalpan, Guerrero. 28” wide x 37” long. Deeply discounted $295.
#5 From Pinotepa de Don Luis, Oaxaca, gorgeous fuchsine huipil, handspun cotton. 31” wide x 46” long. sturdy fabric. $325
#6 Pinotepa de Don Luis blusa dye with gourd and rare purple snail. 29” wide x 29” long $290.
#7 from Cancuc, Chiapas, huipil, dyed with nanche fruit and cochineal. 20” wide x 35” long. $250.
SOLD #8 Xochistlahuaca backstrap loomed shoulder bag Bargain! $65
SOLD #9 Collector’s Huipil from Xochistlahuaca. 30” wide x 45” long Was $875 NOW $475.
#10 Size XL french knot embroidered blouse from Chiapas, spectacular workmanship. Was $145 Now $110.
#11. San Andres Larrainzar blusa. Backstrap loomed. 22-1/2” wide x 25” long. $68
SOLD #13. From the famous Palafox family of San Mateo del Mar, Oaxaca Size XL 35” wide x 33” long. cochineal, wild marigold, indigo. sea creature motifs woven into finest handwoven gauze cotton. You get this for what was paid for it. $375
#14. from Chiapas designer Alberto Lopez Gomez, the best quality huipil from the region. Size Medium. You get this for cost! $375
#15. And this one from Alberto Lopez Gomez. size Medium Also at cost $375

COMING UP — JEWELRY!