This will be the last of my 2021 sales. I leave Taos, NM on my way back to Oaxaca on Decemberr 11. This sale features some outstanding pieces from Oaxaca and Chiapas, including blusas, ponchos, quechquemitls, ruanas, scarves and shawls. Please order and purchase by December 9 so I can get your pieces in the mail by December 10 (if not before)! There are 14 pieces — be sure to scroll down to see 4 BONUS pieces of jewelry from New Mexico I have included.
As I return to Oaxxaca, I’ll be writing about covid travel safety and precautions, protecting oneself from the new omicron variant, and other related issues. Meanwhile, I want to follow-up, too, on what I’ve been writing about how to visit Oaxaca with cultural sensitivity during covid. Tourism is so important to Mexico. It makes up most of the income of the informal economy (independent artisans). We don’t want to discourage safe tourism. We do want to discuss how to be a guest in indigenous villages where people are especially vulnerability. Only now is Mexico authorizing boosters for people over age 60. Vaccine access and administration is still a big issue. Most under age 30 are not vaccinated.
Related to this is a recent conversation I’ve had with Susan Coss of La Mezcalistas.My question is: How is mezcal changing the face of Oaxaca? We will be talking more about this, too. I’m still processing my experience being in Oaxaca during Day of the Dead.
So, if you want to bring a bit of Oaxaca and Chiapas home, consider making a purchase of these beautiful garments. Perfect holiday adornment — whether you celebrate quietly or with family and friends in an atmosphere of safety and respect. These make special, unforgettable gifts, too.
How to buy: mailto:norma.schafer@icloud.com Tell me the item you want by number. Send me your mailing address. I will send you a PayPal invoice (or use Zelle or Venmo if you prefer — just tell me in your email!) after you ID your choices. The invoice will include the cost of the garment + $12 mailing. If you want more than one piece, I’m happy to combine mailing. I’ll be mailing from Taos, NM. Next day to the post office guaranteed if you order and buy before December 9. On December 11, I’m in transit to return to Oaxaca.
SOLD. #12422.1. This is the most precious of what I’m offering today. If you are a collector, don’t pass this one by. An amazing Egyptian cotton back strap loom woven huipil/blusa from San Juan Cotzocon in Oaxaca’s Sierra Mixe. A special and rare piece from Remigio Mestas. A black and white masterpiece. Measures 29” wide x 25-1/2” long. Original price $750. Yours for $495. SOLD. #12421.2. Called a ruana, this is an open front and sides poncho woven in Chiapas on the backstrap loom. 100% sturdy cotton adorned with sparkly silver threads — very festive and tasteful. Hand-twisted fringes. If you like, drape the front flaps over your shoulders and around your neck for warm and fashion drama. Measures 40” wide (each weft is 20” wide) x 26” long. $175.#12421.2 Back view.SOLD #12421.3. This is a French knot blouse from Francisca in Aguacatenango, Chiapas. I consider this a “second” because the bodice embroidery is not as dense as I like. So, I’m offering it at 50% less than the cost of the other blouses from her that I have listed before. Size M-L. Measures 26” wide arm pit to arm pit. Embroidered part is 13-1/2” wide. 28” long. $65.SOLD #12421.4. Back strap loom woven scarf by Carmen Rion, Mexican designer who works with Chiapas artisans. Measures 21-1/2” wide x 90” long. Wrap it double around your neck for added warm! A graphic masterpiece in juicy lime and black. $125SOLD. #12421.5 From the Amusgos weavers of Xochistlahuaca, Guerrero, a rare hand-spun scarf with homegrown native green, coyuche and white cotton — woven on the back strap loom. Wear it or hang it! 10-1/2” wide x 62” long. $75SOLD #12421.6 Black and White blouse with crocheted neck trim woven on the back strap loom in Venustiano Carranza, Chiapas. Gauze weave. Perfect for hot summers or layer it over a Heatech long-sleeve T for winter comfort. Size M. Measures 23” wide x 24” long. $75SOLD. #12421.7 Colorful scarf from Zinacantan, Chiapas. Fold it in a triangle and tie it at your neck. Guaranteed to perk up any outfit. 23” x 22”. Almost square! Handwoven on the backstrap loom. 100% cotton. $75SOLD #12421.8 From Fabrica Sociale, a Chiapas cooperative, this poncho-blouse has all the fine detailing one would expect from a perfectly woven garment. The peach background shimmers because it is interwoven with contrasting pale yellow threads. The shoulders and side seams are closed with what is called a randa — very fine needlework. Measures 40” wide x 20” long. $85#12421.9 Black, White and Red Neck Scarf hand-woven on the backstrap loom in Venustiano Carranza, Chiapas. Fold it in a triangle and tie it around your neck for pizzaz. Hand-tied tassles and fringes. Almost square. Measures 23” wide x 24” long. $75#12421.10 A beautiful quechquemitl poncho in turquoise shimmering cloth from the studio of Remigio Mestas. 100% cotton. Drape and wear as a scarf, short poncho or general cover-up. Turn it so the points are in the front for an alternate look! Fashion for stripes going down back or across shoulders. Measures 36” wide x 22” long. $120SOLD. BONUS: #12421.11 A pair of Santo Domingo Kewa Pueblo earrings with shell and precious stones inlaid on base of black jet. Dramatic. Mother of pearl, turquoise, jet, spiny oyster. Post backs. Made by famous artist Mary Tafoya who has been featured at the Santa Fe Folk Art Market and Indian Market, New Mexico. 3/4” wide at bottom. 2-1/2” long. $175BONUS. #12421.12 Vintage pawn Navajo turquoise and silver cuff, likely from the 30’s or 40’s. Unmarked. Probably coin silver. Rare. 1-5/8” wide at widest part. Center stone measures 1” x 3/4”. This is a SIZE SMALL. Opening is 3/4” wide. Cuff on the inside measures 5” so the total is 5-3/4” I have seen similar in museum shops and Santa Fe galleries for $1,295. Yours for $650. #12421.12. Side view. No chips or cracks. Excellent vintage condition. #12421.12 Side view with stamp work and twisted metal bezel.#12421.12 Inside view. Weighty but comfortable.BONUS. #12421.13 Shell inlaid with jet, mother of pearl and turquoise. Measures 3” wide at widest point and 3-1/4” long. Chain not included. From Kewa Santo Domingo Pueblo, between Albuquerque and Santa Fe, New Mexico. $165BONUS. #12421.14 Shell pendant with inlaid turquoise, mother of pearl, jet and sterling silver. By Kewa Santo Domingo Pueblo jewelry maker Warren Nieto. 1-1/2” wide x 2-1/2” long. Chain not included. $125
If you have a small wrist you are in luck. Most of these bracelets measure 7″ to 8″ long and will fit a small wrist that is 6″ (more or less) in circumference. Some are vintage, some are new-ish, some are collectible, all are in like-new condition. I want to sell these as I get ready to make my cross-country move, so if you are so inclined, I welcome any reasonable offer.
To Buy: Please email me normahawthorne@mac.com with your name, mailing address and item number. I will mark it SOLD, send you a PayPal link to purchase and add $12 for cost of mailing. Please DO NOT SELECT buying goods or services — thank you! We also accept Venmo and Zelle, and I can send you a Square invoice (+3% fee) if you don’t use PayPal.
A word about these carved wood bangles from Mexico City designer Carla Fernandez: She works with the finest wood craftsman from the State of Mexico to create these pieces. If you notice, they are designs adapted from the parts of the molinillo, which is the wood whisk designed to froth hot chocolate. The moveable parts are what the bangle is made from. All carved by hand!
Happy New Year 2021. Over the years, living in Oaxaca, I have collected some outstanding pieces of jewelry. Some I purchased to support artisan-makers whose work I admired and respected. Some were never or rarely worn (isn’t that the definition of a collection?). Other pieces are featured here, too, that are from my travels to the American Southwest, Israel, Morocco and India. Some are made by American Crafts Council jewelry artist-innovators who showed at the Smithsonian and Baltimore Craft Shows. It’s time now for them to find new homes.
Today features all NECKLACES. Earrings and bracelets to come in another post.
I’m willing to entertain offers!
To Buy: Please email me normahawthorne@mac.com with your name, mailing address and item number. I will mark it SOLD, send you a PayPal link to purchase and add $12 for cost of mailing. Please DO NOT SELECT buying goods or services — so we don’t pay commissions. We also accept Venmo and I can send you a Square invoice (+3% fee) if you don’t use PayPal.
#3. Oaxaca Black Clay Bead Mexican Coin Necklace, 20″ $65SOLD. #4. Chiapas Amber Necklace, 19″ $65#5. Vintage Morocco Bedouin Amber, Coral and Metal Necklace, 17″ $295#6. Chiapas Maya Coin Necklace, Ties to adjust length. $25Vintage Oaxaca Virgin of Soledad Sterling and White Heart Glass Beads, 19″ $385#7. Vintage 1990 Yemenite Sterling Silver Necklace, 77 grams, Jerusalem, 16″ $495
Most Jewish silversmiths from Yemen moved to Israel in the early 20th century. Their workmanship with filigree is considered unparalleled. This style is called an ornate bib-necklace. All hand-wrought.
SOLD. #8. Vintage Bedouin Amber Choker Tie Necklace, Coins, Gemstones, Morocco. $195 #9. SOLD. Mexico, Sterling Silver Necklace, 19″ $125#10. Rutilated + Druzy Quartz, gold, sterling silver necklace, handmade chain 16″ $165SOLD. #11. Chiapas Pompom Necklace, ties to adjust length, $20#12. New Mexico Heishi hand-cut/inlay turquoise, onyx, spiny oyster necklace, 20″ $185#13. Inlaid shell, mother of pearl, turquoise + sterling pendant, $65 (does not include chain)SOLD. #14. Chiapas amber necklace, 20″ $45#15. African opal, long strand to double wrap. 32″ $65#16. Vintage Israeli Bedouin necklace, hollow, silver (?) 24″ $145#17. Native American bolo tie, sterling silver, turquoise, braided leather, 36″ adjustable $85#18. India, gemstone faceted black onyx necklace, 18″ $65#19. From London, Selfridges, Jaipur, India designer Amrapali fine silver, 18″ $225SOLD. #20. Chiapas Maya beaded necklace, ties to adjustable length. $45#21. Bhuj, Gujarat, India Rabari tribal necklace, adjustable. 26″ $135#22. Oaxaca black matte clay beaded necklace, 20″ $75#23. Oaxaca, black hand-polished clay beaded necklace, 21″ $75#24. Vintage Navajo pearls (sterling silver, handmade), original chain, clasp. 22″ $495#25. Iolite faceted gemstone necklace with amethyst bezel pendant, 16″ $135#26. SOLD. Oaxaca, ceramic necklace, adjustable, $20
. . . . and, the Kitchen Sink . . . oops, two beautiful pieces of French copper cookware — jewels in their own right!
#27. Vintage Havard French Copper Flambe Pan, 12″ diameter. $95 plus shipping.Havard stamp, made in France#28. BIA Cordon Bleu Oval Casserole, 9 x 14 x 2. Copper and Brass. $95 (Plus shipping)
I’m getting ready to return to Oaxaca next week with a stopover in Mexico City to lead the Art History Tour focusing on the work of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, plus the other noted early 20th century Mexican muralists. (Want to hop down? One space open!)
Before I leave the USA, I usually go through my collection to review what I want to part with. The 15-piece selection is below. Look carefully!
To Buy: Send me an email to norma.schafer@icloud.com with your name, address, and item number. I will send you an invoice to pay with credit card. Once I receive your funds, I will mail via USPS to anywhere in the USA. Prices include mailing cost. Please buy and pay before Sunday, October 13, 2019. I return to Mexico on October 16. Thank you VERY much.
#1 Oaxaca Sterling Silver Yalalag Cross with Virgin of Juquila milagros
This is a one-of-a-kind completely handmade necklace, with handmade hollow silver beads and cast milagros in the image of the Virgin of Juquila, a venerated icon. You’ll never see anything like this again. When clasped, it hangs 20-inches. There are 15 milagros, including the three on the suspended cross. Two additional milagros make up the secure hook clasp. This is a collector’s piece. Price is $995. USD including mailing to anywhere in the USA. (Half the price of Federico with more silver.)
Oaxaca Filigree Dangle Earrings, left is #L-2A and right is #R-2B
These are famed Oaxaca filigree dangle earrings made by the best artisan silversmith I know. The ones on the left are called Muñecas and have a deep ruby red glass center to accent the sterling silver and pearls. The pair on the right are also an impressive statement piece, pearl and sterling with more of the filigree featured. Each pair has a 2-1/2″ drop from where the wire enters the earlobe, and is $245 each (includes mailing to anywhere in the USA).
Don’t like a price? Make me a reasonable offer!
SOLD. #3 Vintage Coral and Sterling Silver Oaxaca Milagro NecklaceDetail #3, all milagros are hand-cast sterling silver
#3 is an outstanding necklace, 22″ long, that I found at an out-of-the-way Oaxaca vintage antique shop. It was too beautiful to pass up and I added it to my collection. Now it’s time for a new home! $595 includes mailing to anywhere in USA.
Left earrings #4. Right top bangle #5. Vintage bubble bracelet #6.
#4 are among the last pairs of earrings I have made Brigitte Huet, who worked in Oaxaca for 20+ years before she returned to France in 2015. They are formed using the lost wax casting technique, and are 2″ long. $145 USD includes mailing to anywhere in the USA.
#5 is a sterling silver Mexican bubble bangle is made in Taxco, Guerrero. I’m very picky about quality, and this one is the best. 6″ interior diameter opening. Measure your wrist! $165 includes mailing to anywhere in the USA.
#6 is a rare vintage sterling silver Mexican bubble bracelet with native turquoise and hook clasp made in Taxco, Guerrero. It is in very good condition and measures 7-1/4″ long. $185 USD includes mailing to anywhere in the USA.
Don’t like a price? Make me a reasonable offer.
#7 purple earrings. #8 yellow earrings. #9 hot pink earrings.
#7, #8, and #9 are jicara gourd, hand-carved and painted, made in Pinotepa de Don Luis, Oaxaca, Mexico. I hand-select each pair for design quality and workmanship excellence. 2-1/2 to 3″ long. Lightweight, versatile, easy to wear. $45 each includes mailing to anywhere in USA. Please specify color and number when ordering. Thank you.
Earrings: #10 love birds. #11 circle flowers. #12 Maya Gods Pendant. #13 cornflowers.#12 detail, sterling silver Brigitte Huet Maya Gods Pendant, 1″w x 1-1/2″ long, $185
#12. This is a rare Brigitte Huet sterling silver pendant made in the lost wax casting technique. It is from her earliest collection. Price includes mailing to anywhere in USA.
#10 love birds, sterling silver, coral and garnet, $175 USD
#10 are made by the Mazahua silversmiths of Estado de Mexico. I bought these in Mexico City. Difficult to find now. 3″ long from where wire enters earlobe to end of coral drop. Will mail free to anywhere in USA.
Don’t like a price? Make me a reasonable offer.
#11 top and #13 bottom, Melesio Rodriquez 950 sterling earrings
These are 950 sterling silver made by fine Mexican jeweler Melesio Rodriguez. They are each 1-1/4″ long. The design is derived from vintage 1950’s Taxco silversmithing. $165 each pair. Includes mailing to anywhere in USA. Please specify which pair you want by number.
#14 sterling silver Brigitte Huet bracelet with toggle clasp, 7-1/2″ long, $395Inside detail #14 Brigitte Huet sterling silver bracelet with her mark
#14 was purchased around 2007 from Brigitte when she was working in Oaxaca using the lost wax casting technique. Her fine work was collected by travelers and residents alike. Rare to still find a piece like this. The iconography is Maya representing the huipil woven designs of noblewomen. $435 USD includes mailing to anywhere in the USA.
SOLD. #15 vintage Lake Patzcuaro fish necklace, 17″ long
#15 was bought in Patzcuaro, Michoacan in the early 1990’s. Rare. The fish is the iconic symbol of the region. Handmade silver beads and chain add interest along with the red beans from which the fish are suspended. Whimsical, beautiful, strong and secure with a hook clasp. $295 includes mailing to anywhere in the USA.
I´m in Eastern Europe, starting out along the southern Adriatic Coast of Albania in the capitol city of Tirana. I’m on a cultural tour of the region that has no particular focus, with a friend who needed a roommate. It would never have occured to me to put this on a travel bucket list, but I´m glad I did.
I call this Eastern Europe because it was once part of the Communist bloc pre-Gorbachev, that turned it’s loyalties to China and Mao, a stricter version communism after Glasnost.
Marble bust, Greek style
This is a developing country. It broke its shackles of repression after more than 30 years of isolation, forced labor camps, concentration camps, and extermination of liberal opposition. This is a city of bunkers built between 1960´s and 1980´s out of paranoid fear of invasion by foreign powers. By 1983, over 173,000 bunkers were built. Tirana today dedicated two to the martyrs who died in opposition, a memorial to a holocaust.
Obsolète; Communist era military buttons
With this in mind, the group I´m traveling with visited the National History Museum. The galleries are devoted to Albania history with ties to Greece, Italy, Macedonia and the Ottoman Empire. Artifacts, including marble busts, bronze weapons and jewelry from archeological sites are on display here.
Goddess Appolonia
An entire gallery is devoted to remembering those who suffered and died under the regime of Enver Hoxha. Here, I cried. This is fresh history. Recent history. Living history. And politics here is everywhere.
Wool apron with embroidered embellishment
Albanians love Americans. Woodrow Wilson said Albania should be independent after the Balkans were divided after WWI. In 2007, George W. Bush was the first US president to visit here. Two young students told me it is their dream to go to America. It is heartwarming to be welcomed so enthusiastically by people we meet. The history is dark, yet there is a sunrise to the east in the second poorest (only to Kosovo) country in Europe.
Heavy wool coat with appliqué
There is a small gift shop at National History Museum. It is filled mostly with vintage textiles that are 60 to 80 years old. The cloth is handwoven wool or cotton, embellished with embroidery or appliqué. The symbol of the country, the double-headed eagle, reminds me of some of the indigenous regions of Oaxaca where the same iconography is central to the language of cloth.
Rugs at the New Market, new, I think
I see weaving patterns that look like Zapotec rugs. I see tiny joining stitches that looks like Mexican randa. I see belts woven on backstrap looms embellished with fringed and wrapped tassels. I see the creativity of a people who desired to adorn themselves in beauty, a consistent them worldwide.
Vintage belts in the museum store
There are mostly European visitors here in this city of one million people, in this country of three million. We were told that there are six million visitors here annually now and the country is struggling to keep up with tourism infrastructure. The time to come here is now!
The tiniest stitches on traditional blouse
I am meandering on my own after the museum. I want to go to New Market and head in the direction a museum guard points me to. At a corner, I hesitate. I ask two young people where to find it.
Casey and Ben, Albanian college students, and me
That’s how I meet Casey and Ben. They speak English. I ask them if they will be my guide for the afternoon. They have free time. They are university students starting their first year, and classes are delayed because the registration system is kerfluffled. Along the way they tell me that young people don’t stay here. There is huge unemployment and the jobs are in Italy or Germany. Their dream is to go to the US. They are delighted to help me and I am delighted to give them each 500 Lek, about $5 USD each. Lucky us!
This is an olive-growing country — delicious!
After New Market, I continue on my own to Oda Restaurant and have a traditional Albanian lunch of stuffed eggplant with veggies, corn bread and beer. Then, back to Hotel Rogner for a rest.
Clay pots to store and cook with
Tomorrow, we are off to Montenegro. Who knows what I’ll find there!
We know the culture! This is our land! We are locally owned and operated.
Eric Chavez Santiago is tri-lingual --Spanish, English, Zapotec.
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Norma Schafer has lived in Oaxaca since 2005.
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What is a Study Tour: Our programs are learning experiences, and as such we talk with makers about how and why they create, what is meaningful to them, the ancient history of patterning and design, use of color, tradition and innovation, values and cultural continuity, and the social context within which they work. First and foremost, we are educators. Norma worked in top US universities for over 35 years and Eric founded the education department at Oaxaca’s textile museum. We create connection.
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December 6-14: Oaxaca Textile Tour and Workshopsincluding dye and weaving workshops, Tlacolula market, spinning village visits, plus lots more. With Fiber Circle Studio, Petaluma, California. Registration open!
January 11-17, Deep Dive Into Oaxaca: Cooking, Culture + Craft.Take a cooking class and printmaking workshop, visit artisan studios, weavers, and potteries, eat street tacos, taste artisanal mezcal, shop at markets, and explore the depths. SOLD OUT
February 6-15:Guatemala Textile Study Tour: Cloth and Culture. Discover Antigua, Lake Atitlan and Panajachel, Chichicastenango Market, and visit Coban where they weave fine gauze cloth called pikbil. SOLD OUT
March 12-17: Deep Into the Mixteca Alta: Oaxaca Textile + Folk Art Study Tour 2025. This is cultural immersion at its best! Following the Dominican Route, we visit potteries, churches, Triqui weavers working in natural dyes, a cooperative in Tijaltepec that makes smocked blouses, the expansive Tlaxiaco Saturday Tianguis. Experience another side of Oaxaca.
October: Japan Folk Art and Textile Tour.ONE SPACE OPEN! Email us.
Oaxaca has the largest and most diverse textile culture in Mexico! Learn about it.
When you visit Oaxaca immerse yourself in our textile culture: How is indigenous clothing made, what is the best value, most economical, finest available. Suitable for adults only. Set your own dates.
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Ruta del Mezcal One-Day Tour.We start the day with a pottery master and then have lunch with a traditional Oaxaca Cook, who is the mole-making expert. In Mitla, we meet with our favorite flying shuttle loom weaver, and then finish off with a mezcal tasting at a palenque you may NEVER find on your own! Schedule at your convenience!
Teotitlan del Valle Map with select rug weavers, restaurants, village attractions
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