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Recipe: Squash Blossom Frittata — Garden Edibles Oaxaca Style

Squash Blossom Frittata on a Uriarte Talavera Plate

One of my favorite tastes in Oaxaca is fresh squash blossoms.  They are so beautiful, a delicious golden-yellow food taste that signals the beginning of summer. In Oaxaca, the markets will be filled with bunches of squash blossoms like edible bouquets.

I’m in North Carolina for a few more weeks before I return to Mexico in mid-June.  Stephen, my husband, has been cultivating our organic garden and we have a patch of volunteer squash plants.  We are also part of Granite Springs CSA in Pittsboro.  Each week we receive a bountiful basket of organic food grown by Meredith and her troupe.  This week, the special treat was baby zucchini and yellow crooknecks.  Along with our bumper crop of volunteer male (no fruit) squash blossoms, creativity was calling.

For our May 26 wedding anniversary, Stephen cooked us a delicious breakfast –this squash blossom frittata.  Here’s the recipe.

Ingredients

  • 3-4 blossoms, rinsed in vinegar water and patted dry
  • 1-2 small zucchini or yellow squash, sliced thinly
  • 4 eggs
  • 3 T. water
  • 3 T. olive oil
  • 3 T. butter
  • 1 small yellow onion, chopped
  • 1/4-1/2 cup Queso fresco or Ricotta cheese
  • Chopped parsley or cilantro (optional)
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

  1. Beat eggs and water in a bowl until frothy. Add parsley or cilantro if you are using them. Add  salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
  2. Pick 3 to 4 blossoms per person and 1 or 2 baby yellow or green summer squash. Rinse blossoms well and drain on paper towels.
  3. Melt butter  and olive oil.  Sauté the onions and zucchini or squash until soft. Add blossoms and sauté for about 30 minutes. Remove blossoms from pan.
  4. Pour egg mix into the same pan, and add onions, and squash to the pan – arranging evenly.  Lay blossoms out like a sunburst radiating from the center to denote 4 equal portions.
  5. Cook over medium-low heat in an 8″ omelet pan until almost set. Dab top with soft cheese in equal parts around top of frittata.  Most dairy sections of U.S. supermarkets now carry Queso fresco!  Thank you, Mexican immigrants.
  6. Finish under broiler about 3 minutes until lightly puffed and slightly browned.

Making Indigo Dye in Santiago Niltepec, Oaxaca

The market for organic indigo dye is making a come-back in Oaxaca as more textile artists and weavers are choosing to work with the natural plant material.  Today, the state of Oaxaca produces about 100 kilograms of añil or indigo each year.  Up until about three years ago, the indigo dye making process had almost died out in Oaxaca.

 

To stimulate the economic development of indigo as a crop, the state government has made investments to help the producers develop new markets.  The Museo Textil de Oaxaca gift shop sells small bags of indigo along with “how to” DVD’s and recipes. I learned this and a lot more during the indigo dye workshop I participated in at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca, where about 15 people gathered to learn shibori and tritik dye techniques using indigo.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The people in Santiago Niltepec, on the coast of Oaxaca near Juchitan on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, pick the wild plant, chop it — stems and leaves — and put it in a fermentation bath for at least twelve hours (sometimes as much as thirty-six hours) to prepare the dye.  Each family has its own recipe for making the indigo paste.  Most use rocks to keep the plants submerged below the water to make sure that they oxidize completely and yield the deepest color.

The process is ancient, thousands of years old.  The plant material decomposes and collects at the bottom of the large vats as a thick paste.  It’s then strained to separate any sediment.  The result is a highly saturated, concentrated product.  It takes about 200 kg of plants to produce 1 kg of indigo dye.  It is then dried and becomes rock-hard.  To then use it, it must be pulverized into a fine powder.  Traditionalists in Oaxaca use a metate or mortar and pestle.  Others take the faster route by using an electric coffee grinder.

Indigo can’t be dissolved in pure water.  It has to be dissolved in a highly alkaline solution with a 10-11 pH, and free of oxygen.  Eric Chavez Santiago, director of education at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca, told us that there are several ways to manipulate the chemistry by using either sodium hydrosulfide (highly caustic) or the more organic fructose crystalline.  French botanist and dyer Michel Garcia is now experimenting with using mango skins and fructose successfully.

Eric says it is important to be patient when dyeing with indigo.  You can use the dye within thirty minutes after preparing it, but it often takes three or four days of fermentation to get the deepest shades of blue.

During the workshop, we dipped our white cotton material at least twice for 20 minutes each time, to intensify the color.  Some people even dye their hair with indigo!

Tapestry Weaving and Natural Dye Workshop this summer 2012!  Don’t miss it.

Macuilxochitl, Tlayuda Capital of the Tlacolula Valley, Oaxaca

Church at Macuilxochitl

What makes Macuilxochitl unique is more than its gorgeous three-domed church that stands proudly in the center of the zocalo, waiting for continuing restoration. This is a village noted for its tlayudas.  These are the extra-large sometimes marigold-colored tortillas that are made in the traditional way using masa pressed by hand and then toasted on the comal until the dinner-plate sized discs are puffy and toasty brown on both sides.

My story today is about tlayudas and the hands of women who make them.  We enter into the smokey, cavernous space called kitchen, obscure and mysterious.  This is a large adobe brick structure that holds the cooking stove, comal, and a flock of chickens that nest under the wood-fired stove.

   

This is not easy work.  First, you must prepare the large rock-sized balls of masa, ensuring that they don’t dry out and are the right consistency for kneading. Then, you take a fist size piece and form it into a ball, flatten it and bring it to the tortilla press, where between two sheets of plastic wrap, you press and press and press again using all your upper body strength to make this staple as flat and transparent as possible.

 

With nimble fingers you spin it like a pizza dough to stretch it out even more, then lay it gently on the very hot, lime-coated comal (griddle), taking care not to burn fingers.  With thumb and forefinger, the tlayuda gets turned every 30 seconds or so to be sure that it cooks evenly and doesn’t burn.  It needs to be toasty and not soft.  There are so many ways to make masa into tortilla variations.

Today, this masa is more white.  Sometimes, it is yellow or has a red or blue tinge, depending upon the type of organic, locally grown corn used.  Perhaps it is a blend of white and blue or white and red, which gives it a more subtle shade.

Jane tries her hand at the press

The tlayudas go into a tall, multi-colored basket, stacked and covered with cloth, ready to take to market.  We try our hand at the labor-intensive task.  After two or three tries, we are tired.  This is work and we sit to rest.  Our hosts keep at it.  This is their livelihood.

Macuil, as the locals call it, is also a Zapotec village of skilled stonemasons, called albañiles, who work in construction, building traditional adobe houses and more contemporary ones made with brick or concrete block.  As an agricultural village, it is also noted for raising sheep (borregos) and growing tending the milpas (small plots of corn, squash and beans).  Within walking distance from Teotitlan del Valle, Macuilxochitl is also accessible from Pan American Highway 190 via a moto-taxi tuk-tuk or collectivo.

Tlayuda Recipe:  One large flat, crunchy tortilla toasted and dry, about 12″ in diameter.  Smear with black bean paste.  Drizzle with green or red salsa according to taste.  Add shredded string cheese or Oaxaqueño string cheese, shredded chicken, diced tomatoes, Julienne red peppers and onions that have been sautéed until soft, top with thin slices of avocado.  Mexican version of pizza.  Cut into triangles and serve.  Great entrée with salad or as an appetizer.

Portrait Photography Workshop: Capture Your Experience, April 2-9, 2012, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, Mexico

Rosca de Reyes for Day of the Three Kings in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca

From January 4 to 7, the bakers in the village turn their attention to creating roscas de reyes, a traditional sweet bread adorned with conchas, candied figs, nopal cactus and red pepper strips.  For three or four days, there will be no other bread to buy.  We get our fill of this luscious cake-like treat.

Eloisa's rich, yeasty Rosca de Reyes

We are lucky.  Tenemos muchos milagros.  At Las Granadas Bed & Breakfast, Eloisa bakes Rosca de Reyes in her outdoor traditional orno or adobe oven. The oval or round loaves are sweetened, yeasty egg bread.

We see them piled high in the backs of flatbed trucks on their way to the village market.  For three or four days there will be no other type of bread for sale.  We get our fill of this luscious treat.

 

Find the tiny white plastic baby Jesus stuffed inside (each baker determines how many s/he will put in each loaf), and you will have the honor of  providing tamales and atolé for your entire family on Dia de la Candelaria on February 2,  40 days after the birth of Jesus. [My observation: In Mexico, the magic number seems to be 40.  Forty is the gestation time in weeks for women to have a "normal" birth.  Traditionally, women stay sequestered for 40 days after birth.  Moses and his people wandered the desert for 40 years.]

Recipe for Rosca de Reyes from Inside Mexico!  or try any egg bread recipe but only let it rise once.  Form the loaf into a circle or oblong shape.  Decorate with candied fruits and the concha (the little sugar buns that sit atop the rosca).  Don’t forget to stuff it with the little plastic Jesus figure.  If you can’t get that, then the fava bean used traditionally before plastic figures were available, will definitely suffice.

Buen Provecho!

We had ours with fresh steamed vegetables: green beans, choyote squash, carrots, along with quesadillas and toasted garbanzo bean soup, washed down with our favorite beer.

Recipe: Oaxaca Chocolate Cheesecake

Oaxaca chocolate is spicy and incredible.  In addition to chocolate, cinnamon, vanilla and ground almonds, it can contain a hint of hot peppers.  I bought some recently at the Benito Juarez Market in the city from two little ladies who make it out of their Tlacolula de Matamoros kitchen.  My intention was  to bring it home and use it in my morning beverage we call “choco-cafe,” a mix of good strong coffee and Oaxaca chocolate that my husband Stephen and I love.

Today, I picked up my adult son at the airport for Thanksgiving.  (He came in from L.A.) Mom, he said, will you bake a chocolate cheesecake for Thanksgiving?  I had bought ingredients for a NY cheesecake, but with a swift adaptation of a trusted recipe that I used to make and sell from my gourmet cookware shop, cooking school, and catering business (some years ago), and that Oaxaca chocolate, I produced what he asked for. Something familiar from childhood that he adored. It’s in the oven now.  You still have time to make your Thanksgiving Oaxaca Chocolate Cheesecake!  Go for it.

Supplies: What you will need

10″ springform pan

small bowl for melting chocolate in microwave oven

small bowl for softening cream cheese in microwave oven

rubber spatula

mixer

Ingredients for crust:

3 packages (in the box of 4) of graham crackers, finely ground in food processor

6 T. butter, melted

1/4 c. sugar

Ingredients for filling:

4 packages of cream cheese, softened

4 eggs

1/2 t. vanilla

1-1/4 c. sugar

2 c. sour cream

6 oz. bittersweet chocolate

8 oz.  Oaxaca chocolate, broken into chunks

In food processor, process graham crackers until they are a fine crumb.  Add sugar and combine.  Add melted butter.  Combine.  Pour into buttered springform pan.  With fingers, press firmly on base and up sides to form a crust.  Set aside.

With mixer, beat the cream cheese and sugar together until soft.  With mixer going, add eggs one at a time.  Add vanilla.  Mix.  Add sour cream and briefly mix until blended in.  Pour half the plain vanilla mixture into a second bowl.

Melt all the chocolates.  I do this in a microwave oven on 30% power for about 3-5 minutes, checking to make sure that the chocolate doesn’t overheat.  Pour the melted chocolate into the remaining white cheesecake mixture and blend with mixer until the cheesecake is completely chocolate.

Pour the white mixture into the springform pan first.  Gently pour the chocolate mixture on top of the white mixture.  Use a spoon to create swirls.

In a preheated 350 degree oven, bake for one hour or until the center is dry and firm.  Turn the oven off.  Leave the cheesecake in the oven to settle and avoid cracking.  Cover and refrigerate.  You can make this up to three days in advance.

As soon as I remove this from the pan tomorrow, I’ll take a photo and post it before we eat it!

Buen provecho!