Tag Archives: Teo Tails

It’s a Dog’s Life in the Campo

Twelve years ago, when I moved into my casita in the campo, I was the only one out here except for a few wild dogs, discarded by owners because they were either no longer cute puppies, grew bigger than expected and ate too much, or needed veterinary care that was too expensive. It was all milpas then, corn fields intermingled with squash and beans, the traditional indigenous diet of Mexico. I remember hearing the raucous caw of crows, the high-pitched screams of coyotes at dusk, the rustling of dried corn leaves in winter, the proliferation of orange-flowered wild marigolds ready for plucking during Day of the Dead, and blood-red poinsettias, native to this area, shooting out from the tops of long stalks at Christmas. Earth has her cycles, and I am part of it here.

The campo is the agricultural fields beyond the Rio Grande, the small stream that borders the village on the north side.  It used to be the outskirts of the village, but no more. As the population grew and more migrants returned home after years of working abroad and sending money home to build, new houses began to proliferate in the campo.

In the summer rainy season, water gushes down from the reservoir on the foothills, built eighty years ago. It is the source of life here. I still see the grandmothers in their faded gray, black, and wine-red plaid wrap-around handwoven skirts worn thin from more than fifty years of washing. The skirts are secured at the waist with loomed red belts dyed with cochineal, decorated with fringes and tassels. Sometimes, I see the the abuelas washing laundry in this stream, kneeling and bending to rinse, drying their laundry on the bushes lining the stream. Here, donkeys and horses drink their fill, too. Here, the wild dogs wallow in the mud to clean themselves, taking refreshment, as well.

This morning, the birds are singing. In the distance, I hear the cocks crowing and dogs barking. It is past breakfast time. Two days ago, as I walked, two hiking sticks in hand to guide me over uneven terrain, I circled the periphery of the two-acre property I live on. It was late in the day, and I could feel the chill beginning to set in. It will be cold tonight, I thought.

As I circled, I decided to make a detour behind my casita. I noticed a small, black, furry lump huddled in the corner of the concrete platform that holds the water cistern I use for the plants. It was a whimpering puppy. I scooped it up, and its small body was shaking uncontrollably. What could I do but rescue it, bring it inside, make it warm, feed it? What I would do beyond that was never in my consciousness.

You may remember that about a year-and-a-half ago, I wrote about the black dog named Zopilote that I tried to rescue and who escaped. I wanted to capture, adopt, and neuter her before she could have babies. I was not successful. This time, I wasn’t going to let that happen again. When I returned here in early January, my family told me Zopi was dead, either poisoned or killed with a gun. Life for dogs in the campo is harsh.

When I looked at this puppy, I knew she was part of Zopilote’s lineage, with long legs, wide black eyes, a well-shaped pointed nose, and black fur with white paw markings. She was beautiful. My friend, Arnulfo, identified her as a she. But I didn’t name her, not knowing if I would keep her. I didn’t want to bond. She curled up on my lap, turned her head to look at me with doleful eyes and I was hooked. I wrote to Merry Foss who runs Teo Tails, a sterilization clinic here. What do I feed her? I asked. Impatient, I looked online. No cow milk. That’s good. All I have is almond milk; I warmed it up to wrist temperature, just like you do for a baby. I used a small spoon to bring the liquid to her mouth, and she began to lap. I tipped the cup and she slurped it all up.

That night, she wailed. I put in earplugs and wrapped the blankets over my head. Finally, I fell asleep. Eventually, she did, too, settling into a corner in the living room, her nose tight against the corner where the north and east walls meet, where I found her in the morning. Her cries were baby-like, yearning for her mother. I put her on my lap to soothe her.

Merry said, take her to the veterinary clinic she works with in Tlacolula. So, I did. The vet said, this baby was sick with intestinal inflammation, mucous, and fleas. She was pegged at two months old, and undernourished. After administering the exam and then dosing with proper medicine, the vet opened a small pouch of food, and I hand fed the puppy. I left with her tucked into a shopping bag after paying the equivalent $50 USD bill, and medicine, syringes, and puppy food, along with a list of instructions in hand.

At home, we settled into the hammock. It was a spectacular afternoon. Clear blue skies, 78-degree weather, puffy clouds floating over the 11,000-foot high mountains. We were shielded from the sun by a guaje tree, red pods ripe with dangling overhead, an ancient source of sustenance. Guaje is an acacia tree native to southern Mexico that produces long, flat pods filled with crisp tender green seeds. These seeds have a very pleasant, mild garlic flavor. They look, feel, and taste similar to pumpkin seeds. The tree’s fringed leaves left mottled shadows below. It was like swinging under a canopy. A yellow songbird perched on one of the branches. The puppy, still unnamed, was splayed on my belly dozing intermittently between deep sighs.

She got up, stretched, and began panting. Her legs were unsteady on the hammock. She peered over the edge, pushed her head through the netting, walked across my outstretched body, and seemed restless. I thought she needed to pee. So, I swung my legs around, stood up, and put her on the ground. She steadied herself and in seconds, she took off for the corn fields and disappeared.

I’m angry at myself for not knowing better. I believed this puppy had bonded with me and would stay close. I had dreams of her trailing me, little black tail wagging. I imagined training her to fetch, to obey on command, to wear a collar and be led by a leash. I would get her spayed at five months old and she would become my companion for the rest of my days here. The other two campo dogs, Butch and Tia, came to me fully formed. Butch was about six when he appeared. Tia was yearling. That was eight years ago. Butch now has trouble walking and Tia has slowed down considerably. A new puppy felt right.

I loved the feeling of having this small animal nestled on me. I loved touching her fur, rubbing her little nose, scratching her head, and stroking her. I thought This is just what I need. In an instant of misjudgment, she was gone. I doubt she will return. The call of the pack is powerful. This is about ancient instincts. I have to accept and let go. Another lesson learned.

Lament of the Dog Catcher

Butch came to me six years ago, joining Mamacita and Tia, to form a tribe of three. At the time, he may have been six years old, sleek, muscular, a commanding presence.  Today, he is an old man, thick in the middle, graying almost beyond recognition, limping from time to time on his back left leg, a sign of arthritis or just plain aging. I have sympathy for him and commiserate with his circumstances. Still, when the front gate is open, he can bring up enough energy to the chase the occasional moto-taxi that plies the dirt road in front of the property where I live out in the campo, in the outskirts of the village.  In that moment, he is fast, running like a two-year-old, and it is a marvel to see that he still has it in him. When he re-enters the property, he’ll stop to take a sip of water, then curl up like a baby and go to sleep for a while.

Once, this was all farmland, planted with crops of corn, squash, and beans that we call The Three Sisters here. Not too long ago, I took pleasure in watching the team of two huge bulls pulling hand hewn wood plows through the fields to turn up the rich brown earth fertilized with dung that would yield a year’s worth of corn, enough to feed a large family and a herd of livestock. Now, many of the fields have become homesites.

What remains has been given over to the cultivation of espadin agave, a cash crop that when mature in seven years can bring in much more income than subsistence farming provides. Row after row, field after field of these sturdy, tall, spiked plants line the paved highways and rocky dirt back roads throughout Oaxaca where mezcal production has skyrocketed in the last several years.

This is where the feral dogs roam. Many are born in the campo, but some are abandoned there when they are no longer cute puppies, when they grow to be larger than desired, when there are limited resources to feed and care for them, when they are born hembra (female) and owners don’t want to be bothered with taking care of generations of litters.  None are spayed or neutered, so the numbers of dogs increase exponentially each year. These dogs are hungry. Chickens, turkeys, and wild rabbits are fair game.  Farmers don’t like their henhouses to be raided, but the dogs elude attempts to be captured. To control the population in the campo, sometimes they are poisoned, the fatal pill wrapped up in a tempting piece of meat.

Mamacita dropped two puppies in the field behind my casita seven years ago. Who knows how long she had been living in the campo. She was starving and could not hunt because she was nursing these two. I took her in, fed her, and found homes for the two cachorros when they were old enough. It was during this time that Tia showed up, at first hanging around on the periphery, then tempted to come inside the patio with a bowl of food. We named her Tia because she was extra attentive to the puppies, nurturing them when Mamacita was disinterested. We assumed she was an offspring from an earlier litter, which is why she was connected to Mamacita.  A couple of years later, we found Mamacita in an adjacent field, lifeless, likely poisoned by a neighbor who would have accused her of being a chicken-killer, though I don’t know this for a fact.

It was last October that a young, sleek, black, long-legged dog showed up in the patio. My neighbor told me then that she had recently birthed a litter of pups, likely her first, but all had died of starvation in the campo. Butch and Tia adopted her as a playmate, and I was ready to take her in, though two dogs seemed like just the perfect number, and three would be a hand full.  The color of raven, I named her Zopilote, and nicknamed her Zopi. To adopt her first meant that I would need to get her spayed, but she was illusive. I made a veterinarian appointment, trapped her in the patio and locked the gate, but she squeezed through the metal bars and escaped. I called the vet to cancel, and shortly thereafter returned to the USA.

Zopi showed up in January, four months later, with nine puppies in tow, all about a few weeks old. She didn’t enter the patio but hovered nearby. As the puppies grew, I reminded myself that this dog has years of breeding ahead of her, and each dog then will beget others.  Zopi was now coming into the patio periodically during the day to sleep with the other two, and I knew it was time again to try to capture her.  I talked to a village friend who operates a spay-neuter clinic about how to get Zopi to the next clinic. The friend recommended tranquilizers to capture her and gave me two, with instructions to put them inside a piece of cheese or meat and feed this to her.  She would then relax sufficiently for me to be able to lift her into the car and transport her to the clinic.

On the morning of the clinic, Zopi showed up. I wrapped the pills in a pocket of beef and held it out to her. She demurred and backed away. The other two dogs were in the patio and came up to sniff the meat, which I then held higher than they could reach. Zopi was now outside the patio beyond the gate. Impulsively, I decided to throw the packet of meat outside the gate and quickly close it before Butch and Tia could escape.  I threw the meat, closed the gate, but not before Butch wiggled through and in one fell swoop, gulped down that packet of tranquilizer laden meat. I grabbed the scruff of his neck, trying to shake it loose, but to no avail.  Zopi ran away. Soon, Butch began to collapse and did not come to his senses for twenty-four hours. His eyes glazed over, then closed completely; his breathing was light and barely perceptible. Zopi was nowhere to be seen. Butch was zonked. I was back to Square One.

In the meantime, I have gotten two more pills and I’m ready for the next attempt. But it’s been days since Zopi has shown up again. It’s as if she knows what I have mind for her. I’ve learned my lesson and think I can succeed with a new plan: first close the patio gate, then lure Butch and Tia into the house with a tidbit of cheese and close all the doors of the house so they can’t get away. The next step, with Zopi trapped in the patio, is to throw her the pill infused meat packet. She is too skittish to allow me to get close enough to her to feed her directly. Hopefully, then, she will relax before she has the strength to break through the river reed gate reinforcement. I would then capture her and transport her to the clinic.

If I am successful, this is only a small start to nab and fix those other nine puppies before they can reproduce. A daunting task.

Do you want to help dogs and cats in the Oaxaca campo? Donate to Teo Tails. They need support to capture feral animals safely and to get them spayed and neutered.

Note: I just published this essay on my creative writing Substack site. We organize a Women’s Creative Writing Workshop/Retreat in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, from January 2-8, 2025. Perfect for all levels of writers, from beginners to experienced. We invite you to participate! Writing takes practice. We aren’t born with these skills, they develop just like practicing a golf swing or tennis stroke or doing yoga!