Monthly Archives: July 2009

Thick Convent Walls at Camino Real Puebla

The ‘habitacion’ or bedroom is huge.  I have no idea who may have slept here hundreds of years ago when the Spaniards built this city in 1531 from the ground up.  We are ensconced in a chamber fit for a queen (or mother superior) in this ex-convent turned four-star hotel in the heart of Puebla’s historic district.  Did I tell you earlier that we got this room online from www.hotels.com during the height of the swine flu scare for $68 USD per night prepaid?  The tariff is $2300 pesos per night rack rate which converts to $198 based on 13.2 pesos to the dollar current exchange rate.  The walls are so thick that they mask the sound of the party going on in the courtyard below for almost 300 people.  Thick adobe walls, stuccoed and painted a glazed golden ochre, and painted with original frescoes.  The ceilings have to be 20 feet high and they original wood ceiling has been restored to its original beauty.

Puebla is talavera ceramic heaven.  it is definitely worth a stop for two or three days to get the flavor of the Moorish architecture and hand-painted decorated tile work that adorns the beautiful colonial buildings.

After two hours of sleep last night (since we had to awaken at 2:30 a.m. to catch a 6 a.m. flight from RDU to Houston and then on to Mexico City), we have settled in.  The Estrella Roja bus station is just down at the end of the large hall in the international terminal at the Mexico City airport.  It was easy to take our luggage after clearing customs and immigration and walk to the bus depot, buy our tickets and get on the next bus to Puebla.  Total cost:  184 pesos (about $15 USD per person) and the wait was no more than 30 minutes.  The travel time was under 2 hours.  The taxi into the historic district from the Puebla bus terminal cost 50 pesos and we gave a 10 pesos tip.  Easy as pie!

Estrella Roja checks your bags and does a wand search before entering the bus.  They also give you a little snack bag with your choice of soda or juice, cookies and ear phones to watch the movie (Crash was showing w/Spanish subtitles).  Very comfy.  We wind out onto the highway and not far beyond the city we are under the volcano.  Fertile fields of rich volcanic soil are planted in corn and beans.  The spires of a village church all gold and glistening in the morning light (we have arrived in Mexico City at 11:15 a.m.) rise above a humble village.  A bicyclist pedals down a dirt road lined with eucalyptus, tall and elegant.  In the distance, the volcano leaves a trail of vapor across a pure blue sky.  It is a land of rolling hills, pines, live oak, moss colored.  Leaves of corn are spring green.  As we enter Puebla, we pass huge industrial parks and the massive, sprawling Volkswagen plant.  This is a prosperous, large and productive city.

Nick and Rochelle Arrive in Teotitlan del Valle

My step-son Nick and girlfriend Rochelle are in a Toyota 4-Runner with their dog Domino traveling, rambling and writing about their adventure.  They have been on the road for 3 months and their final destination is Argentina — perhaps sometime close to Christmas.  Yesterday they arrived in Teotitlan del Valle (after going to the OTHER Teotitlan which is in northwest Oaxaca on the way to Veracruz).  Rochelle and Nick are writing about their adventure, which first started out exploring the U.S. and saying goodbye to friends.

You can read about the road trip at http://ramblewriter.com/ramblings/

`Show Us Your Shorts` Film Series Screens `Weaving a Curve` Movie

Free Twizzlers to the 100th Film-goer through the door  ChathamArts: Big Culture in a Tiny Town

Get this in ink right away and please help us spread the word throughout the land! We need some guerilla marketing mobilization to put good clean rural fun on the map! And we are not above bribing you with movie candy . . . Be the 100th person through the gate to get some sticky, chewy goodness.

But here’s the full skinny:

It’s time to “Show Us Your Shorts” at ChathamArts’ Summer Shorts Cinema & Song Fest 2009 with live music performance by teen rockers from Girls’ Rock Camp and Chapel Hill Americana legends , Mandolin Orange!

Tuesday, July 28th, 7 pm at the Fearrington Village Barn, Pittsboro, N.C.

The Chatham County Arts Council celebrates the one year anniversary of their 100-Mile Sustainable Cinema Series with an array of the Triangle’s very best local short films ranging from quirky to dramatic to intriguingly abstract. Teen rockers from Girls Rock Camp (http://www.girlsrockcamp.org/) kick off the celebration at 7 pm. Their motto is, “We put the amp in Camp.”

At 7:30 we roll out the reels with such short screen gems as:

Ajit Anthony Prem’s Banana Bus, which won “Best North Carolina Short” at the All American Film Fest this spring. JaCynthia Shepherd recalls her experiences on the Public School Bus system, where she received much of her education about the basics of life & growing up. www.squigglebooth.com

Nic Beery’s Frame, a story of distress, emptiness, love and happiness. Fourteen year old Kelly’s search yields unexpected and mystical results. This story is set around Bynum and the Haw River. “Frame” premiered in Cannes in 2009 at the “Cannes in a Van” festival. www.beerymedia.com

Todd Tinkham’s American Short, a story of wanderlust and hippie longings, of found treasure and lost spirituality … A rambling American road movie in a stalled car. www.tinkhamtown.com

Stephen Robert’s political mockumentary, Citizen Pratt. This film is quickly developing a cult following. I’m really hoping for a shmoozy political performance from Pratt himself.

Norma Hawthorne and Eric Chavez Santiago’s Weaving a Curve: Meet master weaver Federico Chavez Sosa from Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, Mexico. This film explores the complexity of an ancient Zapotec family weaving tradition and the use of natural vs. synthetic dye materials. Produced by Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC, https://oaxacaculture.com

and many more!

At 9 pm, filmmakers lead a Q&A discussion followed by a live concert by artists on the rise toward the big-time, Mandolin Orange (http://www.myspace.com/mandolinorange).

Grab your beer and Twizzlers from concessions and put on your swayin’ shoes. Mandolin Orange makes one recall the sweet days when they’d go see Tift Merritt perform and just know that she was going to be a Grammy nominee someday. With powerful lyrics and haunting melodies, Mandolin Orange will bow your heartstrings on the fiddle and guitar. Andrew Marlin keeps rhythm and picks a tasty lead on both guitar and mandolin. Local fans can’t get enough of Andrew and Emily Frantz’s riveting on-stage chemistry and the blending of their ethereal voices.

The 100-Mile Sustainable Cinema series screens documentaries and independent films involving producers, directors, subjects and/or locations within 100 miles of Pittsboro. We like to keep it local! Proceeds benefit ChathamArts, which promotes and presents the arts in Chatham County through cultural programs & events, artist residencies in the schools and community, gallery exhibits and more. Film series proceeds will also support the development of an at-risk youth documentary arts program. ChathamArts needs sponsors, so dig deep ya’ll! Email info@chathamarts.org to learn more.

Cinema Series Admission is $5 and $3 for students for films at The Fearrington Barn, 100 Village Way, Pittsboro, N.C. Fearrington Village is located eight miles south of Chapel Hill on US Hwy 15-501. More Information about the film series can be found at http://www.chathamarts.org/programs/sustainablecinema09.html. For additional information contact ChathamArts, 919-542-0394, www.chathamarts.org.

‘Weaving a Curve’ Movie Just Accepted to 100 Mile Film Series–Short Shorts

ChathamArts in Pittsboro, North Carolina, holds a series of documentary film screenings that are produced and directed by people who live within 100 miles of the “epicenter” — Big Culture in a Tiny Town!  That would be:  Pittsboro.  I submitted our short film (just under 6 minutes) to the Short Shorts screening and we were accepted!  The series coordinator is Linda Booker, a distinguished NC documentary filmmaker.

The screening is Tuesday, July 28, 2009, 7:30 p.m. at the Fearrington Barn, Fearrington Village, Pittsboro, NC.  You can find out more on the ChathamArts website www.chathamarts.org This will be the first time the film will be shown on the big screen.

The film tells the story of Federico Chavez Sosa, master weaver of Teotitlan del Valle, how he learned to weave and perfect making the curve using the two-pedal, two harness tapestry loom introduced by the Spaniards in 1521.  Federico talks about what it means to him to be a weaver, combining the aesthetic and spiritual, the past and the present.  In Spanish with English subtitles.

I wrote, produced and directed the film with my friend Eric Chavez Santiago who shares billing with me.  Eric is the director of education at the textile museum in Oaxaca, and took the documentary filmmaking workshop with me in his village of Teotitlan del Valle last February.  We both thought it would be a useful skill to know, and this has proven correct.  Eric has gone on to make short documentaries of aging weavers, dyers, and spinners in remote villages of Oaxaca.  I am now making a documentary at the UNC Chapel Hill School of Nursing about an innovative nursing research project that is looking into hunger and fullness feeding cues that infants and toddlers give to their parents and caregivers.  If the cues are not recognized or are ignored, it is believed that this can result in early childhood obesity which could then lead to childhood type 2 diabetes.

Erica Rothman, our workshop instructor, repeatedly said that the goal of our documentary filmmaking workshop was to provide the skills to enable people to go back to their own communities and tell their unique stories through film.  For me and Eric, I think we achieved this goal.

The next Oaxaca Filmmaking Workshop: Visual Storytelling is scheduled for February 19-26, 2010.  If you are interested in attending, see the blog post for all the details or write me at normahawthorne@mac.com

Teotitlan del Valle Sights & Sounds: Martha’s Journal

Looking over the soft, green mountains toward the city, I see on the street below a small boy walking with his mother. She wears the traditional daily dress of the Zapotec Indian villages – an embroidered plaid apron tied in back over a short sleeved cotton print dress. Her hair is in long braids which wrap around her head for stability if she wants to carry a basket on it. Her day is long, she goes to the local market for food and many days boils and grinds corn to prepare masa for tortillas which are cooked outside over a sheltered wood fire on a large flat metal disc called a comal.

In addition to caring for her family and her animals, spinning and dying wool and weaving rugs on a pedal loom, she participates in the life of this unique village. In the one to two years following marriage and again for shorter periods throughout one’s life, citizens of Teotitlan must “volunteer” in community positions such as the police department, water committee, school board, festival committee, etc.  There are no political parties or elections, as such, here.

The sound scape of this place is intense and captivating. Huetes,  fireworks which announce events of all kinds and are common in many parts of Mexico, are supplemented by church bells and announcements over the town PA system. Men hawking their wares walk or ride in trucks selling everything from  aaa-wah to mattresses. Bands practice or play for saint day parades, birthdays, weddings, kindergarten graduations, etc. Although only 20 miles from Oaxaca City, this is a rural community, still. On one side of this small B & B is a chicken yard, on the other one with turkeys. Burro drawn carts travel the streets daily encountered by moto taxis which carry people from one area to another. With donkeys, cows, goats and sheep in addition to the many dogs, moments of absolute silence are  rare.

In four days, the most important festival of the year will be celebrated, the Precious Blood of the Christ. The band that accompanies the centerpiece event, the Danza de la Pluma, or Dance of the Feather, finds 4 AM to be the best time for everyone to practice. There are times of silence but sound travels well through the valley; I have learned to sleep through almost everything.