Zona 1 is about a twenty minute taxi ride from the more upscale Zona 10 where we are staying at the Hyatt Centric, which has been very accommodating. (I’m still trying to figure out the conversion rate for USD.) I’m traveling with Carol Estes and Mike Schroeder who are on our tour that starts tonight in Antigua. We came three days early to explore this city, which is magnificent.
The Guatemala Cathedral and the Central Market, two blocks away, were our destinations. Not as impressive as Templo Santo Domingo in Oaxaca, the Cathedral nevertheless demonstrates the power of the Conquest, massive and containing images of European saints.
The market is a vast, packed, dense warren of aisles packed with food stalls, comedors, and artisan craft and textiles from around the country.
We may return to Guatemala in 2026 IF there are enough people interesting in traveling with us here. Please send an email to express your interest.
After our meander, we had lunch at El Adobe, a delicious and traditional restaurant three blocks from the Cathedral. The day before, we ate at their sister restaurant in Zona 10. We had no trouble going back since the food was so delicious and reasonably priced.
Posted onTuesday, February 4, 2025|Comments Off on Guatemala City, Museo Ixchel Indigenous Clothing and Popol Vuh
Guatemala City is a big surprise! It is clean, filled with great restaurants, excellent hotels, and glass buildings. It is definitely an international enclave. In the elevator of the Hyatt Centric where we are staying downtown, I met a young man from Japan and a local who both work for Honda motorcycles. Down the street are the Range Rover and BYD dealers. It’s definitely worth a two or three day stay here before you go off to Antigua and Lake Atitlan.
My primary reason for a pre-tour visit was to explore the Museo Ixchel Traje del Indigena de Guatemala. It has seven excellent galleries filled with colorful, intricately woven garments from villages through the country from the 1800’s through to today. And the museum shop has many fine examples of vintage textiles for sale as well as new and vintage jewelry featuring old stones and coins. Hard to save those Quetzales for Antigua and beyond.
Here are a few photos:
We may return to Guatemala in 2026 IF there are enough people interesting in traveling with us here. Please send an email to express your interest.
Tomorrow we are going to the Central Market where we will find folk art and textiles from throughout the country.
The connections between México and Guatemala are strong. The Pan American Highway is the ancient north-south trade route and we see many strong similarities between the two countries and their weavings.
In the same location at the University Francisco Marroquin is the outstanding Popul Vuh Museum. This is an archeological treasure trove. Don’t miss it, either.
Lord Bat qaaw’a Sotz’ in q’eqchiJaguar funerary urn
Passing the two Mexican volcanoes this morning on the flight from Oaxaca to Mexico City was spectacular.
PopocatépetlThe name Popocatépetl means “smoking mountain” in Aztec. It’s a massive volcano that has been erupting intermittently since 1994. The volcano’s summit has glaciers that can melt during eruptions, causing dangerous mudflows.
The name Iztaccíhuatl means “the woman in white”. It’s a large volcano that’s made up of overlapping edifices.
Legend
The Aztecs believed that Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl were lovers who were unable to be apart. According to legend, a warrior who was jealous of their relationship misinformed the emperor that Popocatépetl had died in battle. Iztaccíhuatl believed the false news and died of grief. When Popocatépetl returned, he found Iztaccíhuatl dead and carried her to the top of a mountain. He lit a torch and promised to never put it out, and then he laid down next to her. Over time, snow and other elements covered them, turning them into the volcanoes we see today.
This post is not for tourist advice, travel, textile experiences, or day-to-day life in Oaxaca. Oh, wait. The day-to-day in Oaxaca is seeing the impact of the newly elected dictator of the United States of America wave his mighty hand and destroy the values of the founders. What the heck. The Constitution doesn’t really matter, does it. I woke up to the news that Google Maps will change the name of the Gulf of Mexico for U.S. users. REALLY? Then, I asked Wikipedia, that says this is not legal. But legality doesn’t seem to be an issue any more. Act first, see what backlash there is. There is none. No pushback. No opposition. Continue to destroy. I’m writing this in 80 degree weather. What could be better? Nights drop down to 50-ish. Perfect for sleeping. What could be better? We walk here. We eat out at great comedors for not much money. We go to concerts, art openings, lectures, events. Lots of distractions here as the USA disintegrates into lawlessness, retribution, and acts of revenge. Did you read that the FBI is being purged? Did you read that anyone who participated in the J6 investigation will be treated as a criminal. Can we really wait for two years for the next Congressional election cycle, and by then, will it make a difference?
I did two things this morning that helped me feel better: I donated to Raices based in San Antonio, Texas, which supports legal aid for immigrants and migrants, and an organization here in Oaxaca called Collin, A.C. that provides migrant assistance, including a safe, supportive, and inclusive environment for people on the move, as they are expelled from the USA and need asylum. Yesterday, I rolled down my car window at a traffic light to give to a young man holding a cardboard sign asking for help. I asked, where are you from? He answered, El Salvador. Last year, I helped a young man from Venezuela whose 4-month old daughter was born in the Panama jungle as the family made their way north. What will happen to these people if they are returned to their home countries where economic desperation, poverty and political repression prevail?
I’m writing to ask you to join me in taking our heads out of the sandbox and rising up to do something positive to help others through these perilous times. Joyce Vance wrote this morning that no one is protesting, there is no vocal opposition like there was during the Nixon era, that lawmakers are tearing down laws and not making them. Will we become Nazi Germany? Will I stay in Oaxaca more and longer for the next ten years? What can I do at my age that will make any difference? What can we do? All ideas welcome.
Someone asked me recently, would you invite a migrant to my home? Yes, of course, I would. We are all migrants. It is human nature to seek safety, security, and economic well-being for ourselves and our families. Find a way to resist.
Posted onThursday, January 30, 2025|Comments Off on Oaxaca Textiles, Craft + Culture Tour with Taos Wools January 2026
This January 8-15, 2026 program is more than a tour. It includes weaving and natural dyeing Po for workshops, a visit to artisan markets, studio visits to meet makers. Immerse yourself in all that Oaxaca has to offer with travel and hands-on experiences. We are partnering with Joseph Barry and Taos Wools, located in Arroyo Seco, a charming village on the way to the Taos Ski Valley, to offer this program.
Visit artisan studios in Teotitlan del Valle, the tapestry weaving center of Mexico, including silk and wool weavers
Participate in a two-day natural dye workshop
Learn or enhance your skills in a three-day tapestry weaving workshop using a frame loom
Travel to the mountain village of Chichicapam for a one-day drop spindle (malacate) spinning demonstration, carding churro fleece
Wander the expansive Sunday Tlacolula Market, a confluence of art, craft and more
Meet a red clay potter in her famous ceramic studio
Enjoy a Oaxaca City grand finale dinner with our group and leaders
(No prior weaving or dyeing experience is necessary. This is open and valuable to all levels of fiber artists and fiber admirers.)
DAY 1 | Arrive, settle in & welcome! – January 8, 2026
Arrive, travel to Teotitlan del Valle on your own, at your own expense. We will provide directions from the airport via secure taxi. No host dinner at a local comedor. Overnight in Teotitlan del Valle. Meals included: None.
DAY 2 | Introduction, visit weaving cooperatives, begin dye workshop —January 9, 2026
Breakfast, introduction to the textile culture of Oaxaca with a presentation including topics of community, traditions, and culture. We will meet with two cooperatives and workshops in Teotitlan del Valle that create tapestries, clothing, and handbags. We will meet at the dye studio and begin creating naturally dyed skeins of wool. Overnight in Teotitlan del Valle. Meals included: Breakfast and lunch.
About the Natural Dye Workshop: Participants will dye a range of colors using a variety of plants and over-dyeing techniques. This includes dyeing 15 wool skeins of 10 grams each, with enough colors and materials to weave a small sampler on our weaving day. Participants should bring a notebook and pencil to take notes of the dyeing process.
DAY 3 | Natural Dye Workshop – January 10, 2026
We’ll resume the natural dye workshop to dye skeins of wool exploring locally sourced plant materials of indigo, pomegranate, wild marigold, plus cochineal. The workshop will cover chemistry in dye preparation and techniques for over-dyeing. Box lunch at dye studio. After lunch, we will visit a studio that grows silkworms. Here they spin, dye, and weave the silk into fine garments. Overnight in Teotitlan del Valle. Meals included: Breakfast and lunch.
DAY 4 | Tlacolula Market Meander, Pottery Studio Visit – January 11, 2026
After breakfast, we will spend most of the day at the amazing Sunday Tlacolula market, the once-a-week tianguis that attracts farmers, artisans, household suppliers, and everything and anything you can imagine one needs to run a household in Oaxaca. We will have lunch at a local comedor, then visit a famous red pottery studio in San Marcos Tlapazola. Back in Teotitlan, we will start the weaving workshop. First, we will learn about warping frame looms. Overnight in Teotitlan del Valle. Meals included: Breakfast and lunch.
Tlacolula Market Candy CartColorful plastic woven baskets, Tlacolula Market.Tlacolula market scene with aprons as personal and village identity.
DAY 5 – Hand-Spinning Demonstration — January 12, 2026
Breakfast. We will then take an excursion to the mountain village of Chichicapam to meet a family of spinners who work with only the finest quality Churro sheep wool. We will have an opportunity to spin yarn using the drop-spindle (malacate) and purchase handspun yarn. Lunch will be enroute. Back in Teotitlan, we will continue with our weaving workshop. Overnight in Teotitlan del Valle. Meals included: Breakfast and lunch.
DAY 6 | Weaving workshop— January 13, 2026
Breakfast. Morning weaving workshop until 4:00 pm– we’ll be working on the frame loom to produce a sampler or wall hanging approximately 10” x 18” using the yarns prepared during the natural dye workshop. Lunch at the weaving studio. Afternoon on your own. Overnight in Teotitlan del Valle. Meals included: Breakfast and lunch.
DAY 7 | Weaving workshop and overnight in Oaxaca– January 14, 2026
Breakfast. Morning weaving workshop to continue working on and finishing projects. Box lunch at the studio. Depart for Oaxaca, but first we stop to visit an outstanding flying shuttle loom weaver in El Tule. Finale dinner at an excellent Oaxaca restaurant.
Overnight in Oaxaca City.
DAY 8 | Hasta luego! — January 15, 2026
Breakfast. Depart on flights home from Oaxaca airport. We will help arrange taxi transportation at your own expense. Stay on additional nights and join our extensions.
What Is Included
7 nights lodging
6 breakfasts
6 lunches
Grand Finale Gala Dinner in Oaxaca City
Van transportation
Complete guide and translation services
Natural dye, weaving, and spinning workshops, materials, and instruction
Artisan demonstrations
Conversations about textiles, culture, community
Authentic, locally prepared foods
The tour does NOT include airfare, taxes, tips, travel insurance, liquor or alcoholic beverages, some meals, and local transportation as specified in the itinerary. We reserve the right to substitute artisans, guides, and alter the program as needed.
Cost • $3,350 double room with private bath (sleeps 2) • $3895 single room with private bath (sleeps 1)
Extensions:
January 15: Oaxaca Walking Tour, ½ day: Visits to textile artisans and galleries, $145 per person (does not include meals or lodging) (2 people minimum needed to hold this)
January 16: Ocotlan Highway Tour, full day: Visits to villages, woodcarvers, ceramic artists, embroiderers. Includes lunch and transportation. (does not include breakfast or lodging). $195 per person. (2 people minimum needed to hold this)
How to Register: First, complete the Registration Form and send it to us and tell us which payment method you want to use to make your deposit: Zelle (no fee) or credit card (4% fee). See below.
Reservations and Cancellations. A $500 non-refundable deposit is required payable to Norma Schafer, Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC, to guarantee your spot. The balance is due in two equal payments. The second payment of 50% of the balance is due on or before August 15, 2025. The third 50% payment of the balance is due on or before November 1, 2025. We accept payment using a Zelle transfer (no fees) or a credit card (4% service fee). When you complete the registration form and send it to us, we will send you a request for deposit. After November 1, 2025, there are no refunds. If you cancel on or before November 1, 2025 we will refund 50% of your deposit received to date, less the $500 non-refundable reservation deposit. After that, there are no refunds.
If we cancel for whatever reason, we will offer a 100% refund of all amounts received to date, less the non-refundable deposit.
All documentation for plane reservations, required travel insurance, and personal health issues must be received 45 days before the program start or we reserve the right to cancel your registration without reimbursement.
NOTE: If you have walking impediments or you rely on other travelers for personal assistance, then this is not the trip for you. Oaxaca city is close to 6,000 feet altitude. We travel to villages that are 7,000 feet altitude. For altitude or motion sickness, please consult your doctor and come prepared with adequate medications. We recommend that all travelers have up-to-date COVID-19 vaccinations and bring two antigen testing kits to test along the way. We also recommend RSV and Flu vaccines.
How to Register: First, complete the Registration Form and email it to us. We will then send you a request to make your reservation deposit.
Terrain, Walking and Group Courtesy: We recommend you bring a walking stick and wear sturdy shoes. Traveling with a small group has its advantages, and also means that independent travelers will need to make accommodations to group needs and schedules. We include plenty of free time to go off on your own.
We know the culture! This is our land! We are locally owned and operated.
Eric Chavez Santiago is tri-lingual --Spanish, English, Zapotec.
Eric was founding director of education, Museo Textil de Oaxaca + folk art expert
Norma Schafer has lived in Oaxaca since 2005.
Norma is a seasoned university educator.
We have deep connections with artists and artisans.
63% of our travelers repeat -- high ratings, high satisfaction.
Wide ranging expertise: textiles, folk art, pottery, cultural wisdom.
We give you a deep immersion to best know Oaxaca and Mexico.
We organize private travel + tours for museums, arts, organizations, collectors + appreciators.
Creating Connectionand Meaning between travelers and with indigenous artisans. Meet makers where they live and work. Join small groups of like-minded explorers. Go deep into remote villages. Gain insights. Support cultural heritage and sustainable traditions. Create value and memories. Enjoy hands-on experiences. Make a difference.
What is a Study Tour: Our programs are learning experiences, and as such we talk with makers about how and why they create, what is meaningful to them, the ancient history of patterning and design, use of color, tradition and innovation, values and cultural continuity, and the social context within which they work. First and foremost, we are educators. Norma worked in top US universities for over 35 years and Eric founded the education department at Oaxaca’s textile museum. We create connection.
OCN Creates Student Scholarship at Oaxaca Learning Center Giving back is a core value. Read about it here
Meet Makers. Make a Difference
Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC has offered programs in Mexico since 2006. We have over 30 years of university, textile and artisan development experience. See About Us.
Programs can be scheduled to meet your independent travel plans. Send us your available dates.
Arts organizations, museums, designers, retailers, wholesalers, curators, universities and others come to us to develop artisan relationships, customized itineraries, meetings and conferences. It's our pleasure to make arrangements.
Select Clients *Abeja Boutique, Houston *North Carolina Museum of Art *Selvedge Magazine-London, UK *Esprit Travel and Tours *Penland School of Crafts *North Carolina State University *WARP Weave a Real Peace *Methodist University *MINNA-Goods *Smockingbird Kids *University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill
Our Shop is UNABLE TO ACCEPT ONLINE PAYMENTS until we migrate to a NEW WEBSITE. Stay tuned! If there is something you want to purchase, send us an email.
December 2-10, 2025: Oaxaca Coast Textile Study Tour: Explore the extraordinary weaving + natural dye culture on the Costa Chica, from Puerto Escondido to Zacoalpan, Guerrero. Take a break between Thanksgiving + Christmas. Enjoy the warmth of Oaxaca.
2026 TOURS + TRAVEL
January 8-15, 2026: Oaxaca Textiles, Craft + Culture Tour Plus Workshops with Taos Wools. Participate in weaving, natural dyeing workshops, and hand-spinning experience. Explore the Tlacolula Market, meet artisans, immerse yourself in Zapotec culture and history. In collaboration with Taos Wools. 5 SPACES OPEN.
January 22-February 2, 2026:Guatemala, Here We Come. A cultural immersion tour into the textiles and folk art of Mayan people. Off-the-Beaten-Path. Adventure travel. Into the rainforest. Indigo dye workshop and MORE! ALMOST SOLD OUT! DON'T WAIT TO REGISTER.
March 3-11, 2026: Chiapas Textile Study Tour: Deep Into the Maya World. Based in San Cristobal de las Casas, we introduce you to some of the best weavers in the region, into off-the-beaten-path remote villages where culture and tradition remain strong. 5 SPACES OPEN.
Oaxaca has the largest and most diverse textile culture in Mexico! Learn about it.
When you visit Oaxaca immerse yourself in our textile culture: How is indigenous clothing made, what is the best value, most economical, finest available. Suitable for adults only. Set your own dates.
One-Day Tours: Schedule When YOU Want to Go!
Ruta del Mezcal One-Day Tour.We start the day with a pottery master and then have lunch with a traditional Oaxaca Cook, who is the mole-making expert. In Mitla, we meet with our favorite flying shuttle loom weaver, and then finish off with a mezcal tasting at a palenque you may NEVER find on your own! Schedule at your convenience!
Teotitlan del Valle Map with select rug weavers, restaurants, village attractions
Tlacolula Market Map -- where to find food, shopping, ATMs, and more
Our Favorite Things to Do in Oaxaca -- eating, shopping, gallery hopping + more
We require 48-hour advance notice for orders to be processed. We send a printable map via email PDF after your order is received. Please be sure to send your email address. You can click here to Buy Map. After you click, you can check PayPal to double-check you included your email address. We fulfill each order personally. It is not automatic.
