The fiesta in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, is an annual event, always celebrated the first week in July. This year it continues through July 9. I’m posting the schedule below for those of you in Oaxaca.
Gathering in the church patio, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca
This is a festival that honors the village church, Preciosa Sangre de Nuestro Senor Jesucristo. This is a religious event primarily that also includes La Danza de la Pluma (Dance of the Feather), daily masses, an adjacent carnival next to the market (making it impossible to park), fireworks, and lots of parties with tamales and mezcal.
Out in front of the parade, children with papier-mache animals atop bamboo poles
I couldn’t imagine a better homecoming than by celebrating the kick-off event by attending the Desfile de Canastas — Parade of the Baskets — that started yesterday, July 2 at 6 p.m. from the church courtyard.
Miles to go with a heavy decorated basket on their head
All ages take part, from children, pre-teens and young adults
Young women who have never married are selected by the festival sponsors to hold ornate and heavy baskets on their heads and process about three miles through all the village neighborhoods.
Village officials go with the young women through the cobbled streets
They are solemn. This is serious respect for traditions and religious life. Even three and four-year olds participate, helped by parents. Learning the culture starts young.
My friend Danny Hernandez with his daughter
Group photos in front of the 17th century church
How do I know the distance? I clocked it on my FitBit, starting right along with the group of hundreds, including the two bands, the Feather Dancers, the Canasta walkers, church and village officials, children out in front holding whimsical animals atop poles, various relatives and volunteers.
The children are a special feature of this event, joyful and eager to take part
As the parade wound through the village streets through all the five administrative sections, up hill and down, crowds of onlookers assembled at strategic corners. In every neighborhood, I passed people I knew. Since I’ve only returned three days ago, it was an opportunity to greet people and feel welcomed.
At the corner behind the municipal building, a crowd of all ages gathers
Hand-carved amulets and rattles are held to keep evil at bay
This custom of community celebration and mutual support goes back thousands of years in Zapotec life, long before the Spanish arrived to conquer Mexico, name it New Spain, and integrate Catholic rites into already existing spiritual/mystical practice. Today, we call this blending syncretism. Zapotec tradition has very strong roots here.
Los Danzantes stop to offer homage in each neighborhood
Today, joking with the children and the crowd is one of the jester jobs
Festival Schedule
Tuesday, July 3: The Dance of the Feather will start around 5p.m. in the church courtyard accompanied by the Band, followed by an extravagant fireworks display that usually doesn’t start until 11 p.m.
Wednesday, July 4: The Dance of the Feather starts at 1 p.m. and continues until about 8 p.m.
Thursday, July 5: This is a day of rest.
Friday, July 6: At 6 p.m. there is another procession with the beautiful young women of the village wearing their traditional indigenous dress.
Saturday, July 7: At 4 p.m. the Dance of the Feather dancers meet in the church for a mass, then at 5 p.m. the Dance of the Feather resumes in the church courtyard.
Juana Gutierrez with her niece.
Sunday, July 8: At 11:30 a.m. there is a procession through the village with Los Danzantes, and at 1 p.m. there is a Dance of the Feather ceremony in the church courtyard.
Monday, July 9: The festival ends with an 8 a.m. mass in the church.
The fair (feria) is filled with rides and carnival games — open daily.
Felipe Flores is on live camera for his California family
All of this is organized and produced by village volunteers. To be a member of the community, one must make a promise to serve. This involves being part of a committee for one to three-years, including the job of village president. Because this is a traditional indigenous Usos y Costumbres village that is self-governing, this is a responsibility by men, women and families who live here.
The jester. In the conquest story, he was an Aztec spy, invisible
Committees determine priority projects and moderate conflicts, levy local taxes and make village improvements. Even the police department is based on two-year volunteer service of one week a month — a daytime or nighttime duty.
The band in reflection
Quite a marvel in today’s complex, law-driven universe.
I hope you come and enjoy. It’s a wonderful experience to be here.
Santiago family sisters with grandsons. Their father was a danzante 12 years ago.
After the procession returned to the church courtyard, we met for a taco at Buky’s, under the lights of the tent, watching the children racing between the rides, enjoying the chill summer air.
El Buky for hamburgers and tacos al fresco
Outdoor dining Teotitlan style
Before the rides start up there is still fun
Opposite directions; street dog in search of food
In Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca It’s Dance of the Feather with Basketball and HonkeyTonk Fair
Los Danzantes and the Dance of the Feather, Danza de la Pluma
There’s a lot going on this week in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, where I live part of the year. Next to the Church of Jesus Christ of the Precious Blood and the annual saint’s day celebrations honoring the church founding with the Dance of the Feather, there is a carnival fair with kiddie rides, a basketball tournament, and the daily market. To say there is a traffic jam is an understatement.
Today’s Danza de la Pluma starts at 5 p.m.
How many basketball courts are there in Teotitlan del Valle? Who knows?
At the lighted court, two teams are competing while a crowd looks on. Basketball is a big deal here. This court, next to the village market and across from the church was completed last year, complete with grandstand seating and a raised platform for scorekeeper and the guy who does the play-by-play.
Playing basketball under the shadow of the 17th century church, Teotitlan del Valle
The tournament continues through the entire week and attracts young and older alike. This is important entertainment here. A new court was recently built in my neighborhood and each of the five administrative districts of the village will field their best team for this event.
Ball is in the air. Will he make the hoop? YES!
Some of these young men are talented enough to play for the UNC Tarheels, I think.
Meanwhile, back in the church courtyard, hundreds of visitors are watching
This is the third and last year of this 2016-2018 group of Los Danzantes. It is particularly meaningful now as they get ready to pass the baton to the next group who make the three-year commitment to their church and village traditions.
La Malinche, Moctezuma and Doña Marina hold court
Teotitlan is widely known for its Dance of the Feather. Each group tries to outdo those who came before. They are all capable of high leaps and dizzying spins.
Exit the church courtyard to a world of rides and games
Bright lights, loud music projected via huge loudspeakers, screams of delight from children, and booths filled with all types of cakes and cookies are just beyond the church courtyard.
In the distance, we see the sacred mountain Picacho, but who is paying attention? Surely not those who are playing bingo for a chance to win a large plastic trash pail or those tossing the ring with the hope to land a teddy bear.
Family and friends enjoying nieves, Oaxaca version of ice cream
Families and lovers stroll holding ice cream cones, called nieves here. The word means snow. This treat is more like sorbet or gelato. Moms and dads watch over their children who are deep into the moment.
A commitment to recycling, organic and inorganic waste baskets
I’m with my host family. We stop for esquites and boiled corn cob on a stick. Both are slathered with mayonnaise, shredded cheese, lime juice, hot sauce and chili pepper.
Slathered corn cob on a stick, a Mexican favorite
The esquite maker — an art form, too
Back in the church courtyard, a mezcal toast — salud!
The tradition here is to give and receive guelaguetza, which represents mutual and community support. This includes the significance of gifting mezcal, fruit, bread and chocolate representing abundance for all. It is the responsibility of those more fortunate to help those in need, especially family members.
Members of the church committee distribute fruit to audience members
Stray dog stops play for a moment
Back at the basketball court, the tournament comes to a stop, interrupted by one of the many roaming dogs in the village that is searching for a scrap of food.
Shadows grow longer as the sun descends
The dancers have danced since 1 p.m. It is almost past eight o-clock in the evening. They take breaks with rest, water and Gatorade. There has been no rain so far, so this year the dancing has been a bit easier as temperatures hover in the low eighties (fahrenheit).
Moms watch their children at the rides.
This is a huge regional festival. People from other villages come to enjoy the party. Here, a group of women from Santa Ana del Valle watch their children and take a respite. I can tell where they are from by their elaborate aprons and pleated skirts, a different costume than what traditional women in our village wear.
The grand finale, a prayer by the dancers in the church courtyard
Inside the church, long lines to pay tribute to the altar of the patron saint
Night descends and fiesta-goers shift from church to the adjacent carnival
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Posted in Cultural Commentary, Teotitlan del Valle
Tagged basketball, Carnival, celebrations, Dance of the Feather, fiestas, Mexico, Oaxaca, Teotitlan del Valle