Tag Archives: indigo

Day 2: Shop Wool from Norma’s Oaxaca Closet: Deep Discounts

Ends Thursday, November 14, 2024 at 3 PM! Perfect for winter warmth.

For years, I’ve stored beautiful wool hand wovens from Oaxaca and Chiapas in a cedar chest that Teotitlan del Valle carpenter Elias made for me. This cedar chest is called a baule, which traditionally is gifted at Zapotec weddings to store valuables and clothing that need protection from critters. They always had a lock and were often painted with the name of the bride and the date of marriage. I will return to the USA at the end of the coming week and offer these to you as part of my collection that I’m paring down. Many of these texxtiles are naturally dyed and artisan made. I have treasured them because I know everyone who has created them. Some are pieces were purchased years ago, so they have collector value. Most have never been or rarely been worn. So, very much LIKE NEW.

Please purchase before 3 PM on November 14. I will be packing them to take with me when I return to New Mexico for the winter holidays and mail them to you after November 20 — just in time for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Perfect for wearing or gifting!

Pieces are priced FAR BELOW what was paid for themPriced to SELL.

How to Buy: Send me an email to tell me which item(s) you want BY NUMBER and by name of item. Send me your name, mailing address, email address, and phone number. Tell me if you want to purchase using a Zelle transfer or a credit card. If you use a credit card, we add a 4% service fee. There is no extra fee for using Zelle. If you want Zelle, please tell me how your Zelle account is registered. For mailing, I will add a $14 packing and mailing charge. I am NOT putting these items for sale in the SHOP — only here!

Thank you!

#1. Indigo Poncho handwoven in Teotitlan del Valle by master weaver Roman Gutierrez Ruiz. He is an invited exhibitor at the Feria de Chapala, Original in Mexico City, and expoventas at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca. Román Gutiérrez Ruiz is a third generation weaver, taught this craft by his family as their business. There are currently 5 people in their workshop — spinning, carding, embroidering, and sewing.

Teotitlán del Valle is famous for its pedal loom rugs. Román has been teaching at the center of arts of San Agustin Etla for 12 years and about 6000 students have passed through his workshop. He has won numerous awards include the FONART Presidential Grand Prize, and the National Great Works of Popular Art Living Legends. One size fits all. Measures: 30″ long from neck V to hem, and 43″ wide from shoulder to shoulder. Priced reduction: $195 down from $245.

#2. Hand-woven on the back strap loom in San Juan Chamula, Chiapas, this is a versatile textile that can be used as a shawl, a throw, or just a decorative textile. The wool comes from brown Churro sheep brought to the America’s by the Spanish. It is hand-carded on the drop spindle loom. This textile is very soft and wearable. The pom poms are handmade from dyed wool. Measures 24″ wide x 68″ long. Prices to sell at $85.

SOLD. #3. A warm brown quechquemitl woven on the back strap loom high in the mountains in the State of Puebla. Natural wool with hand embroidered threads colored with natural dyes. See the elaborate fringes. A soft, luscious fabric very comfortable to wear. This is a pre-Hispanic garment worn by indigenous women original woven with cotton. Easy on and off — just pull it over your head. Wear like a short poncho. The Spanish conquest brought wool to the Americas. Measures 29″ long from neck V x 38″ wide across the shoulder. Priced to sell at $145.

#4. From Remigio Mestas’ curated collection at Los Baules de Juana Cata, this Mixtec poncho is woven on the back strap loom from soft, natural sheep wool. Note the red cochineal accent strip that runs along both edges of the textile. The randa, joining stitch, is fine and well executed. A perfect piece for winter warmth that will carry you will into chilly spring evenings. Beautiful drape! Priced reduction: $145 down from $195.

SOLD. #5. Glorious soft white wool woven on the flying shuttle loom by our friend Arturo Hernandez in Mitla, it is dyed with three shades of indigo. The hand-twisted fringes are masterful. If you love indigo, this piece shows off all the color variations of the first, second and third dye baths. Measures 27″ wide by 89″ long — long enough to wrap around your neck two or three times! Priced to sell at $145.

SOLD. #6. A luscious medium blue shawl with a very intricate hand-knotted fringe from the Mixe village of Tlahuitoltepec about two and a half hours beyond the Valles Centrales de Oaxaca high in the Sierra Madre del Sur. This beautiful indigo shawl is colored with naturally dyed wool. It takes months to tie a fringe this detailed. Measures 24″ wide x 82″ long. Priced to sell at $135.

Loving Indigo Blue from Oaxaca and Japan

I’m smitten with indigo. I first fell in love with it years ago in Oaxaca, Mexico, where I discovered it is grown along the tropical, humid southern coast of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. The type of indigo grown in Oaxaca is a different strain. The botanical name for the Oaxaca indigo plant is Indigofera suffruticosa, also known as Añil. This species is native to the tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas, including southern Mexico. It is different from that grown in Asia or Africa, and yields a different intensity of blue. To go deeper into Oaxaca indigo, please read this piece I published in 2012.

Japanese Indigo, Persicaria tinctoria or Polygonum tinctoria (also known as Tadeai) is a frost-tender member of the knotweed family. Originally thought to be introduced from India and China via the silk trade, it likes to grow in warm, moist climates, often as a waterside plant. This plant thrives in the more temperate climate of Japan.

It was only natural that on this second trip to Japan (my first was in 2019), I would again pursue indigo. I took an indigo dye workshop and sought out a sashiko embroiderer who dyes her threads with indigo and stitches on naturally dyed indigo cloth. I should call this Japanese heaven. I was in my element!

Known in Japan as ‘aizome’, indigo dye is so integrated into Japanese society that this deepest, entrancing shade is often referred to as “Japan blue.” Evidence suggests that indigo production began in Japan as early as the 6th and 7th centuries. Because it was so difficult to produce, indigo was reserved for the wealthiest and most important members of society, particularly aristocrats and royalty. It was discovered, too, that Japanese indigo dyed fabric has many medicinal properties; its insect repelling and anti-bacterial qualities made it a popular choice for Samurai soldiers charging out into bloody battles.

Historically, it was also used to color workers’ garments and textiles for daily use. The traditional methods of fermentation and oxidization are used to achieve the various shades of blue. Color intensity is also controlled by the number of dips a yarn or textile is submerged into the dye pot. The indigo in Japan can yield a much stronger blue on plant fibers such as cotton or linen, than in Oaxaca. Yet, the color of Oaxaca indigo on wool is spectacular.

In Oaxaca, indigo dyeing has a long history, dating back to pre-Hispanic times. Indigenous Oaxaca Zapotec and Mixtec weavers used this amazing blue for traditional ceremonial textiles as well as for clothing worn by royalty. The dyeing process is deeply tied to local crafts and cultural heritage here, too.

When Annie and I returned to Tokyo for a week after visiting Kyoto and Takayama, we took an indigo dye workshop in a neighborhood on the city’s outskirts. It took us about a half-hour train ride to get there. We took the workshop organized by Aikuma Japanese Dyes–Japanese Dyeing Workshops. The owner is Yuta Yasuda, and his family has owned the company that supplies dyers since the late 1800’s. Yuta speaks excellent English and arranged for his colleage, dye master Morito, to lead the workshop. Yuta translated, but it was easy to pick up the techniques just by watching.

We used a rice paste resist and stencils made with Japanese washi paper. To make the rice paste Morito used three parts of rice bran to two parts of rice flour. Rice bran is a by-product of sake production, so nothing is wasted! The labor to harvest rice and indigo crops immigrate from Vietnam, Kurdistan, Turkey and China. Farms need lower cost labor, just as we do in the United State of America.

Take an indigo dye workshop with us in Oaxaca when you visit!

Sashiko in Takayama

I spent the morning with Keiko-San at her home gallery twenty steps away from the Red Bridge. There is a green bridge, white bridge, and red bridge here. Landmarks to navigate location. Japanese are very organized and clean. Hisa, a local translator, met me at the red bridge along with Keiko-San to take me to her house. As we entered i was asked to take off my shoes before climbing the steep stairs to where she lives.

Keiko-San is a master Sashiko embroiderer. She does not have a shop. One must know about her and arrange a meeting through her son who lives in the US. I was grateful to have Hisa with me to make the communication easier.

Upon arriving upstairs, I was surrounded by this Japanese artwork of making little embroidery stitches on hand dyed indigo cloth. I was there for two hours. We even worked together to make two beautiful berets a bit smaller to fit. Fun is not enough to describe the experience.

Of course I bought something and if I never bought another piece of clothing in my life, this would be enough. My friend Svetlana Suggested I visit Keiko and also referred me to Hisa. Going into an artisan’s home is what I treasure most. I hope to return someday. Perhaps in 2025!

if you want to go to Japan with us in late 2025, please send me an email to get on the interested list.

Kyoto Food and Fashion

We missed the debate! It was held at 10 am Wednesday morning here. I’m traveling g with friends who have been to Japan nine times. The plan was to hit the streets. But it was modified to spend the day in the giant air conditioned Takashimaya department store to shelter from the 98 degree weather and high humidity.

We are staying at the Hotel Granvia at the train station. Very convenient. Next to food courts, galleries, and shopping

Every department store has a food court and carry out shops filled with fresh and exotic foods. Japan is foodie heaven.

I found a pop up of indigo clothing made in Okayama and went a bit crazy. The indigo here is a different strain than what is grown in Oaxaca.

Time to get going. It’s 10:15 am here in Kyoto, Thursday morning. You all are getting ready for or are already sleeping!

Japan Blue and Pottery

it’s now 8:09 am. We are 13 hours ahead of you. I’m not sure how to calculate when the debate will happen or if we missed it.

the started with $9 cups of coffee — price unknown to us in the Hotel Granvia lobby cafe until we were presented with the check. Saving grace is there is no tipping in Japan.

We first took a taxi to the famed Nishiki Market filled with restaurants, food stalls and boutiques. We pick out an oyster restaurant where they are as big as fists. Then, we set out to meander and got stalled at Japan Blue. This shop showcases indigo dyed blue jeans and jackets from Okoyama, the town where the fabric is dyed and sewn.

Then, a taxi to meet ceramics pottery expert Robert Yellin, who has lived in Japan for many years. We did not take a tour with him (we will save that for our Japan 2025 tour). We spent about an hour and a half with him learning about the ancient and traditional pottery techniques here. Most of what he carries are rare and collectible pieces. He has sold and exhibited to museums a d clients throughout the US.

To thank him for his invitation to visit, I presented him with a box of green tea (matcha) mochi rice candies. He poured and gave us green tea to sip as we arrived and heard more from him. Gifting and reciprocity are very important here.

To get on our list to consider coming with us to Japan in October 2025, send me an email.