We call native corn here CRIOLLO. This term refers to landrace varieties of plants that have adapted to local conditions over generations. Maiz (corn) criollo is a traditional, non-hybrid corn variety grown by indigenous and rural farmers. Criollo can mean something authentic, traditional, or deeply rooted in a region’s culture.
I’ve written a Substack essay about what I notice when I drive the Pan-American Highway between Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, and San Pablo Villa de Mitla. Even here in our small village of 6,500 people, my neighbors are planting espadin agave. Fewer and fewer fields are growing the traditional milpa — corn, squash, and beans.
This is an important topic for all of us who love Oaxaca, live here permanently, visit regularly, or come for a first-time exploration. Corn in Mexico is part of our culture.
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I wonder if Monsanto (now owned by Bayer) will win the long game in Mexico, as native corn production declines and people need to eat. The nutritional value of genetically modified corn is questionable. Because it is grown with pesticides, scientists are afraid there are possible links to cancer and other health issues. GMO products are not labeled. GMO seeds are patented and controlled by large agribusinesses, cost more, and require chemical fertilizers.
When I return to the USA, I will bring back a couple of mezcal bottles for my son. He loves Gracias a Dios Agave Gin. I need to double-check with Emmy Hernandez to reconfirm that they do not use fertilizers in the growing process. It’s like, Who made my clothes? Who made my mezcal? Who grew the corn I eat? Sustainability is not to be taken lightly.
