The debate about how a woman from the western world is to clothe herself while traveling in the Moslem Kingdom of Morocco continues. I want to be respectful and also comfortable as the temperatures hover close to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover your elbows, advises one friend. Another says, elbows are okay, just don’t show forearms or cleavage. Another tells me to wear a long skirt or dress and cover your ankles. Don’t worry, ankles are okay, says one more, it’s not Saudi Arabia, you just don’t want to wear short shorts. At my stage of maturity, that would not be my thing. Today, I am in the serious pre-packing thinking stage of open suitcase and clothes on the bed.
Jude looks at argan soap
Sunday, September 15 is departure day. I am traveling with my friend Judith Reitman-Texier who has been to Morocco many times for her company La Bedouine argan oil skin care and lifestyle. Her wise counsel is priceless and her planning even more so. Jude, also a published journalist, invited me to come with her as she writes reviews of 5-star Marrakech riads for travel magazines and sources product for her business. My role is to photograph and document all. Of course, the textiles are what draws me there!
Morocco Packing Notes
- wide-brimmed hat
- sunscreen
- no open-toe shoes
- long linen dress
- shawls that can drape and wrap to cover
- 2 long linen skirts
- 1 pair loose linen pants
- loose linen tops (3-4)
- long sleeve linen top
- 3-4 changes of underwear
- sleep shirt
- comfortable walking shoes
- closed toe dress shoes
The list sounds like what I recommend for Oaxaca, except the arm-leg cover-up part. Always, no short shorts!
Plus these essentials:
- Contact your bank to let them know travel plans so they don’t block ATM money withdrawal.
- Contact your wireless mobile service if you want data, text and voice coverage while traveling.
- Important Note: Especially for a woman, it is essential to carry a cell phone wherever you are that connects you to home in an emergency. Don’t skimp. It is part of travel safety and security.
And comments from friends on my Facebook page keep coming in, like this one:
Covered up but cool because it sure was hot when I was there. And although they do not drink they serve local beer to the tourist – just do not try to take the lovely bottle as I did. The waiter went nuts and thought I was stealing (which could have cost me a hand) but the owner graciously insisted I keep the bottle after my husband came to my rescue. On the street my husband was offered two camels for me.
Morocco Journal 2: Marrakech–Oaxaca Connection
After a 24-hour journey from Raleigh, North Carolina to Marrakech, Morocco via Madrid, Spain, I headed out on Day One with my guide Fadil into the labyrinthine Marrakech souq (souk). I was forewarned. It is easy to get lost. Don’t even think about going in without a guide, advised a U.S. State Department friend who lived in Rabat for years. I took him seriously. Opinions vary on this, but I decided to be cautious and get the lay of the land.
It was early morning after a rainy night. Only the cobra snake charmer greeted us on Jemaa el-Fnaa, the city’s main square.
Then, we entered the souq. Except for the minarets, Arabic script, women wearing djellabas, and narrow arched and cobblestone alleys, I could have been in Oaxaca’s Abastos Market where I have often lost my bearings among the tangle of vendors.
My priority today was to see the Dyer’s Market. But, as usual I got sidetracked. Temptations are many. As in most international markets, craftsmen congregate by trade. Here, there are sections for jewelry, ceramics, shoes, leather bags, traditional clothing, food and spices, cookware, and even a goat skin auction.
Marrakech–Oaxaca Connection
Natural dyes. Here in Morocco, indigo, poppy, saffron, mint, kohl, henna, and other plants and minerals are used to dye wool for rugs and fibers for clothing and shawls.
Silk of the Agave Cactus. Just like in Mexico, the agave leaf is soaked and pounded, the fibers separated and spun, and used for weaving and embroidery embellishment. We call it pita in Oaxaca and sabra in Morocco. It has the shiny texture of raw silk.
Fruit of the Agave. Lo and behold, I’m walking through the market and see a street vendor selling tuna, which is what we call the fruit of the agave cactus. He peeled the skin and offered the fruit to me and Fadil. We each got two for 5 Dirham. That’s about 15 cents each.
Sesame seed snacks. The women who balance the baskets on their heads filled with sweet sesame treats on the Oaxaca Zocalo and the souq pushcart vendors have a lot in common.
Donkeys. There are beasts of burden in every culture, thankfully.
Weaving Techniques. Men weave on the heavy floor loom. Women weave using a lighter weight vertical loom that looks more like the Navajo loom.
And, then there are the rugs. Stunning rugs, just like in Oaxaca. Too many beautiful rugs to choose from.
Market life for the staples of life.
Photography: Traditional people do not want their picture taken!
Moorish influences in tile work, craft, food.
Construction: Buildings are made of adobe, earth’s raw materials.
Of course, so much here is different, especially in food and beverage. The whiskey of Morocco is mint tea. We are getting used to dining without a glass of wine in this alcohol-free Moslem country. Couscous and tagine are culinary gifts. The hammam, or sweat bath, and the spa life are integral to the culture.
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Posted in Cultural Commentary, Oaxaca Mexico art and culture, Textiles, Tapestries & Weaving
Tagged Jemaa el-Fnaa, markets, Marrakech, Morocco, natural dyes, souk, souq, textiles, travel