2021 Jewelry Sale #1: Mostly Oaxaca + Morocco, India, Israel
Happy New Year 2021. Over the years, living in Oaxaca, I have collected some outstanding pieces of jewelry. Some I purchased to support artisan-makers whose work I admired and respected. Some were never or rarely worn (isn’t that the definition of a collection?). Other pieces are featured here, too, that are from my travels to […]
Vintage Moroccan Tribal and Berber Jewelry: For Your Collection
In this post: a stunning collection of Moroccan tribal jewelry for sale. We traveled the souks of Marrakech and Essaouira to find these treasures — several stunning necklaces and one outstanding filigree Berber bracelet. All are vintage! We sat on leather poufs at the feet of Moroccan traders who served us glasses of hot, sweet mint […]
Bringing Morocco to Mexico: Tagine Oaxaca-Style Mole Recipe
One of Morocco’s delights is tagine clay pot cooking. This heavy clay platter with conical top is perfect for one-dish meal preparation. I packed my tagine securely with bubble-wrap in Marrakech, seasoned it in North Carolina, repacked it, and have been cooking with it since arriving in Oaxaca this week. Oaxaca-Morocco Fusion Food: Now, […]
Madrid, Morocco and Mexico: Conquest, Empire, Power and Religion
Madrid was my gateway city to and from Morocco. I planned two full days there on the way back for arts immersion. (It wasn’t enough time!) What was quickly revealed were the inextricable links between Spain, Mexico and the Americas, and North Africa. This last stop on my journey tied it all together. Our histories […]
Morocco Journal 9: Shopping, Eating, Sleeping, Body Work
Back home in North Carolina after 14 days in Morocco, the quintessential shopping bazaar, with a 2-day stopover in beautiful Madrid, Spain. Now, I prepare to return to Oaxaca, but not before a final set of Morocco recommendations to share with you. Marrakech Riad Bahia Salam, Marrakech, a restored mid-range guesthouse situated within easy […]
Morocco Journal 8: Magic Carpet Ride Rug Buying Guide
Rules for rug shopping in Morocco and other advice from a seasoned shopper who admits to being a naive novice when it comes to bargaining in the Land of a Million Carpets. Carpet merchants fill the souks in every Moroccan city. Then, there are the random carpet shops on high traffic tourist pedestrian avenues. […]
Morocco Journal 7: Camels and Beach Life Essaouira
Last night at sunset I met friends at Beach & Friends Cafe, the last set of buildings on the Essaouira strand before leaving town and heading south toward Agadir. It is where you can get a great seafood dinner with a good glass of vin ordinaire — red table wine — for a reasonable price. […]
Morocco Journal 6: Essaouira Faces and Places
The melting pot of Essaouira attracts Anglos and Moslems from throughout the western and African world. This week I met a Parisian couple, both professionals, whose parents immigrated from Tunisia and Algeria. Their gorgeous children captured my eye. The mom of these children, Saoud, speaks four languages fluently — French, Arabic, English and Spanish. […]
Morocco Journal 4: From the Medina to the Palace
From North Africa, the land of coucous, tagine, lamb, prunes, dates, figs and apricots: We moved from the cozy, neighborhood riad on a busy street in the Marrakech medina near the crush of the souq and Jemaa el-Fnaa square to an oasis about 15 minutes beyond the city center. The Mosaic Palais Aziza […]
Morocco Journal 3: Shop, Bargain, Buy or Walk Away
How many glasses of mint tea can you drink in a day? Every shop owner, whether in the souq or in a traditional store, will offer mint tea. The tea is delicious. It is also a strategy to get you to sit down, talk and stay a while. A while can often be two […]
Morocco Journal 2: Marrakech–Oaxaca Connection
After a 24-hour journey from Raleigh, North Carolina to Marrakech, Morocco via Madrid, Spain, I headed out on Day One with my guide Fadil into the labyrinthine Marrakech souq (souk). I was forewarned. It is easy to get lost. Don’t even think about going in without a guide, advised a U.S. State Department friend who lived […]
Morocco Journal 1: What To Wear and Other Notes
The debate about how a woman from the western world is to clothe herself while traveling in the Moslem Kingdom of Morocco continues. I want to be respectful and also comfortable as the temperatures hover close to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover your elbows, advises one friend. Another says, elbows are okay, just don’t show forearms […]