Monthly Archives: January 2011

Soup Kitchen: Mexican Sopa Verde — Spicy Cilantro Vegetable Soup

This vegan soup is like drinking your vegetables.

It’s a spicy broth flavored with garlic, lemon and cilantro with a few more things from the veggie bin thrown in for good measure.

It’s still chilly here in North Carolina and it’s five more weeks until I get back to Oaxaca.  What draws me closer is the memory of those rich, hearty broths that I love.  As you can tell, these days my Soup Kitchen is overflowing.  This is because we are the beneficiaries of a bounty of fresh vegetables and I’m trying to figure out what to do with them.  Soup is one of the best solutions.  A healthy, low-cal, and easy to make and enjoy tonic–sippable morning, noon and night.

This week, we got a lot of little baby organic broccolini, which I par boiled, laid out on cookie sheets, froze, then transferred into freezer bags.  I kept the water and used it as the beginning of the soup stock.   This version is both vegetarian and vegan.  I use only organic vegetables!

Sometimes, I think I should be calling this the “Leftovers Kitchen.”

Sopa Verde Vegetariana -- Spicy Cilantro Soup

Ingredients:

5 quarts water

4 ribs of celery, 1/2″ cuts

1 bunch cilantro, washed, leaves and stalks

1 or 2 carrots

2 small rutabagas or 3 turnips, peeled and quartered

3 green cabbage leaves or 1 baby bok choy

1 small leek or 1 small onion or 4-5 scallions

4 large garlic cloves, peeled, whole

Juice of 1/2 large lemon or more to taste

2 t. salt or more to taste

1 t. ground red cayenne pepper

Directions:

Bring water to a boil.  Turn heat down to simmer.  Add all the vegetables, cilantro and garlic.  Simmer over medium-low heat until veggies are very limp.  I simmered these on the stove for a good hour.

Remove veggies with a slotted spoon to the bowl of your food processor.  Process on high until completely pureed.  Add fresh squeeze lemon juice.  Process again.  Pour puree back into soup stock.  Add salt and pepper.  Stir.  Taste.  Add more salt and pepper if you prefer.

Optional:  Add cooked whole wheat macaroni for a chunkier soup.  Or you can add leftover chopped chicken, ham or fish pieces, too.  I like the broth version.  Very soothing.

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Soup Kitchen: Oaxaca Spicy Sopa de Garbanzo (Chickpea Soup)

We eat this delicious, rich and creamy soup at the home of our friends in Teotitlan del Valle.   Dolores, Federico’s wife, prepares it periodically for cena (late supper) accompanied by quesadillas.  With a cerveza (preferably Indio) we are in heaven.  At Las Granadas Bed and Breakfast, Josefina makes it for comida (lunch) as a first course served before the rice, beans and tamales.   I was reminded of it being one of my favorites this week when my friend and neighbor Kat brought a version to our women’s book club.  I’ve adapted here.

When finished, it should have the consistency of heavy cream.  But, no cream added!

Sopa de Garbanzo (Chickpea Soup)

Ingredients:

2-1/2 lbs. dried organic garbanzo beans (chickpeas)

6 quarts water

1/4 cup olive oil

6 large garlic cloves, minced

1 T. dried red pepper flakes

1 large dried pasilla chile pepper, stemmed

1 stalk fresh rosemary or 2 t. dried whole rosemary

Juice of  2 large lemons

1 T. salt or more depending on taste

Optional:  1 cup chicken broth

Equipment:

8 quart stock pot, stainless steel (not aluminum)

10″ frying or sautee pan

Cuisinart or blender

Mixing bowl

Slotted spoon, long-handled wood spoon, soup ladle

Preparation:

Put dried garbanzo beans into stock pot.  Cover with water.  Bring to simmer, cover and continue cooking for 2-3 hours.  Note of caution: These beans take a LONG TIME to cook.  Leave yourself enough time.  I started cooking them in the evening, then turned by bean pot off and let them stand overnight.

Two-and-a-half pounds (+/-) of organic garbanzo beans cost me $1.79 per pound and the total cost came to $4.68.  If you are in a hurry, you can substitute pre-cooked and canned beans.

In a sautee pan, heat the olive oil over low heat.  Add pepper flakes, garlic, and dried pasilla chile pepper including seeds, breaking the chile into pieces as you add it.  I have fresh rosemary growing outside my kitchen door, so I just go out and snip off a stalk.  I added the whole stalk (about 8″ long).  You can use dried whole rosemary.  Turn burner up to medium.  Sautee peppery mixture until the garlic is just slightly browned and the pepper softens.

(Note about PASILLA: Also known as the chile negro. Literally “little raisin,” the pasilla is a dried chilaca chile. There is some confusion over the name of this chile in California and northern Mexico, the fresh poblano and its dried forms, the ancho and mulato, are referred to (mistakenly) as pasillas.)

In batches:  Remove cooked garbanzo beans with the slotted spoon and add to food processor or blender with enough of the liquid from the cooking broth to cover.  Add sauteed pepper mix.  Blend until smooth.  Pour into stock pot.  Continue procedure until all the beans and broth are blended.  Stir all mixture very well.  Add lemon juice and salt to taste.  Optional:  Add chicken broth for a richer flavor (of course, this alters the “vegetarian” state of the soup).

Yield:  8 quarts of soup.  Enough to eat all weekend, freeze, hold a potluck or give away!

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Oaxaca Travel: iPhone Apps = The Bad and the Ugly

We are preparing for the next trip to Oaxaca in early March.  Over the last year, I have migrated most of my travel information from paper to e-information.  My resolution for 2011 was to adapt to my iPhone calendar which syncs with my computer — reluctantly giving up the handwritten word which I deeply love.

My quest this morning was to research the App Store and get a good Oaxaca map and travel information loaded up to my iPhone — on the ready.  (Although I know Oaxaca like the back of my hand.) Last March, I navigated my way independently through the narrow, cobbled backstreets of London relying solely on my iPhone.  I did not get lost and managed to find everything I wanted, needed, and much more!  My London iPhone folder had six apps filed there and I’m waiting to go back to this fantastic city.

On to Oaxaca!  There are ONLY TWO iPhone Apps for Oaxaca.  Both reference the CITY of Oaxaca, not the STATE of Oaxaca.  Looks like we still need to rely on Moon’s Oaxaca Handbook to get solid information.

Here are my reviews, ranked in order of preference.  You’ll notice there is no “Good.”

  1. The Bad:      Oaxaca Travel World.  Cost: $0.99.  Developer: Tan Feng.  Posted March 4, 2010.  I give it a 2 Star (out of 5) This App is decent but has skimpy information, much of it outdated.  It looks like they did online research based on 2007 information and made up a travel site.  Mexicana airlines is out of business., which they cite as the best way to get to Oaxaca.  Today, January 15, 2011, the only service to Oaxaca is via ADO bus or AeroMexico from Mexico City or Continental from Houston.  Shopping recommendations are poor and only feature large commercial shopping mall department stores.  There are no galleries or boutiques listed.  Choices for lodging name one or two locations.  Fewer than 5 restaurants are recommended, although they are good ones!  This site could benefit from more content and a good editor.  Oaxaca is filled with great lodging and restaurant choices.
  2. The Ugly–Thumbs Down: Oaxaca Genius Map.  Cost: $0.99.  Developer:  Cui Gang, NiceTrip 2010.  This was posted on May 17, 2010. Don’t bother with this App.  This is a total waste of money and it is deceptive.  I have asked for my money back on principal of being sucked in.  This is just a map, and a poor one at that.  It denotes landmarks and historical sites by color on the map but there are no written references.  Two restaurants are named on the map; these are obscure and out of the tourist area.   The App Store indicates there are no ratings for this App, so I bought without tapping the ratings button.

I have to fault iPhone and Apple for not screening content for quality, but I guess it’s  caveat emptor, “let the buyer beware.”  Apple has also not kept up with posting the ratings for Apps as they get written and posted.  I hope the environment improves.

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How to Get From Oaxaca Airport to the City or Teotitlan del Valle

Getting from the Oaxaca airport to the city or to Teotitlan del Valle is easy and convenient.  And the cost is reasonable.  It costs about 75 pesos to go from the airport to the city in a shared van.  It cost about 550 pesos to get from the airport to Teotitlan del Valle. (One dollar equals about 10 pesos, more or less.)

Get pesos in Houston, in Mexico City at an ATM or at the second floor ATM at the Oaxaca airport.

Here is what you do:

As you exit ADUANA (customs) and baggage claim at the small Oaxaca airport, you will go through the glass doors and exit into the small lobby area.  Straight ahead of you is the exit door to outside.  To the right of the exit door is the ticket booth to buy a government regulated collective van ride.  Don’t blink or you might miss it!  You can go to the city in a shared van or you can go to Teotitlan del Valle.  If you don’t speak Spanish, write the address out on a piece of paper and present it to the counter clerk.

All the airport taxis are government regulated.

The ride to the City will take about 15 minutes and the ride to Teotitlan will take about 40-50 minutes.

If you are participating in one of our workshops, retreats, or expeditions, I will email all the participants so you can make your own arrangements to coordinate arrival and share transportation, if possible.

Buen viaje!

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Is Oaxaca Safe for Families?

I asked this question to my friend Lauren who spent a year there in 2009-2010 with her husband and three children.  They rented a house in San Felipe del Agua, took Spanish lessons, and immersed themselves in the cuisine, the culture, and the very agreeable climate.  “We had an amazing year in Oaxaca,” Lauren said.

She goes on to endorse the experience for others by describing Oaxaca as a family-friendly place that is safe for kids.  Her take on it is that the narco-wars are not occurring remotely close to Oaxaca, and although they took the same precautions anyone should in a large city, Lauren says the family generally felt SAFER in Oaxaca than they did in their home town — a large U.S. city.

We recommend “The Family Sabbatical Handbook” by Elisa Bernick.

Lauren used it to prepare her family for their residency in Oaxaca.  She says it covers perspectives from many different countries but the author and her family lived in San Miguel de Allende, so there is plenty of info specific to Mexico.   Though the book is not specific to Oaxaca, much can be extrapolated, generalized, and put to good use when considering Oaxaca as a destination for your family.  The Family Sabbatical Handbook describes how to go about choosing housing, type of schooling (immersion or bi-lingual),  finding medical care and health insurance, traversing cultural differences, coping with homesickness, and lots of resources to help you plan and enjoy the adventure.