Monthly Archives: January 2011

Oaxaca and Family Travel

A reader just wrote to me with the following questions: Is Oaxaca safe for families? and What do we do once we get there?

I think you will find Oaxaca a very welcoming place for families.  A friend, her husband and two pre-teens lived in Oaxaca for a year “on sabbatical” to have a different cultural experience and learn the language.  A colleague of mine at UNC Chapel Hill who is a cancer researcher returned from Oaxaca over the winter holidays where she went for two weeks with her husband and high school-aged daughter.  Another reader just spent several weeks in Mexico with his family, starting in Mexico City, visiting Puebla and Oaxaca, and staying in Teotitlan del Valle.  We see families in Oaxaca all the time.  Of course, the caveat is that it is important to be mindful of your surroundings where ever one travels; the same precautions you take for Europe apply to Oaxaca.

Off the top of my head, there are many things for children to do and enjoy in Oaxaca:

  1. The Ethnobotanical Gardens
  2. The archeological sites of Monte Alban and Mitla — climbing the pyramids
  3. The Museo Textil de Oaxaca (the textile museum)
  4. A stay in the family-friendly village of Teotitlan del Valle to hike, learn about weaving and take a cooking class with Reyna Mendoza Ruiz
  5. The hubbub of market days; nothing beats popping a crispy chapuline in your mouth!  Fried, spicy grasshoppers never tasted so good.
  6. Cooking classes for kids with Pilar Cabrera at Casa de los Sabores Cooking School and Bed & Breakfast
  7. Francisco Toledo kites at IAGO and a visit to the paper-making studio in San Augustin Etla
  8. The sights and sounds of street vendors and musicians
  9. A steaming, frothy cup of Oaxacan hot chocolate at a sidewalk cafe on the Zocalo

Plus lots more.  A feature was written in the last year or two about the most family-friend places to visit and Oaxaca came to the top of the list.  I don’t have the link but you could research that.  I wrote about it on my website.

The textile museum offers regular workshops for children and for parents and children together.  You could take a weaving workshop together in Teotitlan del Valle and learn about natural dyes.  There is also an English speaking Spanish tutor in Teotitlan that I can refer you to, if you wanted to spent a few days out there at Las Granadas in the tranquility of the Oaxaca countryside.  Las Granadas is a family owned and operated bed and breakfast, with two pre-teen boys!

All in all, I think you and your family would love it.

Saludos,
Norma

Readers:  Do you have any other suggestions for family travel and fun in Oaxaca?

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Soup Kitchen: Spicy Red Chard, Spinach and Garlic Soup — Pure Vegetarian!

A hot winter soup a la Mexico — hot and spicy to the taste, hot to warm you on a cold frosty day — couldn’t be better as we curl up in front of the fire dreaming about being in Oaxaca.  We’ve been experimenting this week with a lot of vegetables we have on hand.  This is a made-up, “everything you can think of leftover in your vegetable bin” kind of soup.  It has no oil or meat — just pure vegetable goodness.  We use only organic vegetables.  Is this ever delicious? YES.  So, have at it!

Spicy Red Chard, Spinach and Garlic Soup in Talavera Uriarte bowl from Puebla

Equipment:

8 quart stock pot

Food processor

Wide slotted spoon

Mixing bowl

Spatula

Long-handled spoon for stirring the pot

Soup ladle

Ingredients:

5 cloves of garlic, peeled

1 onion, peeled, quartered

2 bunches fresh spinach, trimmed, cleaned

2 bunches fresh red chard, trimmed, cleaned

1 parsnip, peeled, cut into 3″ pieces

1 or 2 small beets, cleaned with greens intact

1 very large orange sweet potato, peeled, cut into 3″ pieces

1 head broccoli, cleaned, trimmed, including stalks

1 bunch celery, end cut off, cleaned, cut into 3″ pieces

1 box organic cream of tomato soup (Trader Joe’s or Whole Foods)

sea salt to taste; at least 1 T.

1 tsp. red cayenne pepper

2 Tb. turmeric

2 Tb. paprika

juice of 2 large lemons

Directions:

In the food processor, combine garlic and onion and process until minced.  Set aside.

Soup Kitchen: Correcting the Seasoning

Add 6 qts. water to stock pot and bring to boil.  Add all the vegetables, submerging all of them under water.  Simmer over medium heat until root vegetables are cooked, about 10-15 minutes.  With the slotted spoon, remove vegetables from the broth to a mixing bowl.  You will have liquid broth at the bottom of the mixing bowl.  Transfer half the vegetables to the food processor and blend until a smooth puree.  Add remaining vegetables and stock and continue processing until smooth.  Add salt, paprika, cayenne pepper and turmeric.  Process to blend.  Pour mixture into mixing bowl.

Ladle puree back into vegetable stock that has remained in the stock pot.  Stir with long handled spoon.  Add cream of tomato soup.  To get all the soup out of the box, add water from the tap, swish around and pour liquid into stock pot.  Add lemon juice. Stir well.

Bring all to simmer.  Taste.  Correct seasoning by adding more salt if needed.  Garnish with a dollop of plain yogurt.

Serves 12.  Can be frozen.

This soup will be a bright forest green.  I leave this on the burner and sip on it throughout the day.  It is healthy, satisfying, enjoyable and low in calories.

Optional:  I added 1/2 can of vegetarian, organic refried beans that were leftovers in my refrigerator.  This served to thicken the soup and add a bit of bean soup taste to the mix.

Hint:  Try this method with carrots, cabbage, onions, garlic, leeks, scallions, potatoes, cauliflower and any other leftovers you have there in the veggie bin.  You would be amazed at what you can create!

First Communion in Teotitlan del Valle

Yesterday, brothers Willibaldo and Eligio Bazan Ruiz celebrated their First Communion in the village of Teotitlan del Valle.  They are the sons of weaver Eligio Bazan Ruiz and Josefina Ruiz Vazquez who I wrote about earlier this week.  It is Josefina and her mother-in-law Magdalena who started Las Granadas Bed and Breakfast after we were the “first experiment.”

Here are the photos that my friend Roberta Christie took of the event. You will see the girl celebrants dressed in white, representing their purity.  The priest is based in the neighboring village of Tlacochahuaya and serves many of the surrounding community parishes.  The mass began at 8 a.m. barely after the sun began to warm the winter air.  This year there were over 100 celebrants.

As with all Teotitlan celebrations/fiestas, everything starts and ends with family and food.   The day before, Josefina and her sisters, cousins and mother began to prepare for two big meals (breakfast and comida) that would be shared after the communion with family, friends and godparents and B&B guests.  I can just imagine Magda at the comal making her delicious homemade tortillas.

In the photos and the video to follow, you will see the mounds of cooked goat meat that will be served as caldo (soup) and later in large 12-14″ tortillas.

Roberta captured the scenes of the ceremony in the square of the village church and the family greeting Willibaldo’s padrinos (sponsors) in their home altar room where all family milestones take place.  You’ll see the ritual of offering gifts first to God and then to the family.  Traditional gifts include a case of beer or a bottle of mescal, loaves of bread to be served with delicious hot chocolate or mole negro.  This tradition likely carries over from the time when tribute was paid to the Aztecs and local chieftains with atole, chocolate and maize.

Here is the video shot by Art Mayers that captures the preparations and the communion ceremony.  The languages you hear spoken are Zapotec and Spanish.

More about First Communion in Teotitlan del Valle:  Roberta observes that this celebration signifies confirming one’s faith and acceptance of the church doctrine.  She reports that Willi and Eligio both made their first confessions a week or so before the First Communion ceremony, and were pretty nervous in the days approaching the big event.  Typically, children age 12 or 13 participate in First Communion but it can happen any time.  Roberta noted that there was one adult participant at the ceremony.  One must reach the age of reason, whenever one becomes accountable for one’s sins, according to some.  One takes First Communion when one is ready to accept being part of a Christian faith community as an adult capable of reason and able to distinguish between “good and and bad” behavior.

Roberta adds that the padrinos or godparents, who are good friends or relatives and “sponsors” of the celebration, are present in the altar room with the family. They will be the ones “responsible” for the boys continuing practice as Catholics.  First everyone offers a toast and blessings to God at the family altar, with the male head of household presiding.  Because the boys’ father Eligio is deceased, their Grandfather Nesefaro stepped in to do the honors, along with mom, two grandmothers, aunts and uncles.  Then, everyone will gather around the large family dining room table that can seat twelve to sixteen people, pass the beverages, make toasts, and eat a hearty meal of spicy goat soup soaked up by Magda’s fresh tortillas.

For more information, use this link about Las Granadas Bed and Breakfast in Teotitlan del Valle.

Thanks to Roberta Christie and Art Mayers for photography and video, and to Roberta for adding her experience and editing to this post.

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Getting the Best Airfares Is More Than Luck: Think TUESDAY

Getting the best airfares is not a “hit and miss” proposition.  The New York Times travel writer Michelle Higgins writes on January 7, 2011, that “Navigating the Airfare Maze Online Gets Tougher.”

But, good deals are still to be had.  And, she tells us which search engines to use to compare and get the best fares.  I’ve written before about searching for and buying your tickets on Tuesday. Now there is an algorithm that can tell you the likelihood of a fare going up or down over the next week!

I like using TripAdvisor and Airfarewatchdog.  The news of the week is that American Airlines has just pulled out of Orbitz, Expedia dropped American, and Delta has cut ties with several aggregators.  Others may follow.  Seems that the airlines want to save the fees associated with online travel agents and offer discounts only through their own websites — like online frequent flyer programs!

There are some very good cost savings tips in this Higgins article, so if you are looking for a competitive fare to Oaxaca, read “Navigating the Airfare Maze Online Gets Tougher” story first.  At least, until the next round of changes come around the airwaves.

Saludos!

Race, Ethnicity and Hate Crimes: The Gunning Down of Arizona Congresswoman Giffords

I write about Oaxaca.  What does Oaxaca have to do with Arizona and the shooting of Congresswoman Gabrielle Giffords today?  I am supposed to be writing about travel, culture, weaving and textiles, the wonderful people of Teotitlan del Valle, archeological sites, and the sublime mole prepared by Pilar Cabrera at La Olla.

Read this New York Time article about how an English course in Latino studies has been ruled illegal by the State of Arizona.  It is important to read the last paragraph.  The politicians of Arizona are  creating an inflammatory environment that encourages the kind of violent behavior that was perpetrated on Congresswoman Giffords today.  I consider this a “hate crime” and this has an impact on all of us.  What is happening in Arizona should have the attention of the U.S. Department of Justice.  As the Justice Department moved into Alabama in the 1960’s to support the Civil Rights Movement, there should be a call to action for the same in Arizona now.

Is this blog a place for politics?

P.S.  Gabrielle Giffords is considered a centrist, an environmentalist, and was targeted by Sarah Palin in her “crosshairs map” of representatives to be defeated.  The image is what you sight through a rifle scope.  Her opponent in last November’s election was a Tea Party candidate; she won by a 1% margin.  Giffords supported immigration reform AND stronger border protection.  She voted for health care reform.  Paul Krugman in the NY Times today predicts that the war of words around health care reform will turn to more violence in the months and years ahead.  I believe we have  lost our senses as a nation.

Politicians are culpable in this crime.  Words are powerful and incite fear, hatred, anger and fury.  Sarah Palin, Glen Beck, Fox News and the Tea Party speak about inciting violence, revolution and the taking-up of arms against the government they do not like.  This is provocative and must stop.