Oaxaca Natural Dye Workshop Day 3: Rainbows and Overdyes

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Rhiannon and instructor Elsa at the end of the three-day workshop
Rhiannon and instructor Elsa at the end of the three-day workshop. Indigo hands!

The third and last day of the three-day Oaxaca Natural Dye Workshop brings together all the preparation of the first two days in a culminating extravaganza of rich, deep color.

The beauty of natural dyes: deep, rich color, a rainbow to weave with
The beauty of natural dyes: deep, rich color, a rainbow to weave with

The movement toward using natural dyes is taking hold around the world. It is an environmentally healthy process that is non-toxic and sustainable. Here in Oaxaca more weavers are using natural dyes for their beauty and because it’s what eco-minded textile lovers want.

Rhiannon's shibori scarf comes out of the indigo dye bath
Rhiannon’s shibori scarf comes out of the indigo dye bath

On this last day, we prepare the indigo dye bath to color cotton and wool blue. We also use the indigo for overdyeing. This gives us a rainbow of colors.

As the color oxydizes, it changes from yellow to green to blue -- magic
As the color oxidizes, it changes from yellow to green to blue — magic

Elsa shows the film about the small village on the southern coast of Oaxaca, Santiago Niltepec, where two families remain who preserve the ancient tradition of growing the indigo plant and making it into dye material.  All the indigo that Elsa uses is native to Oaxaca.

Rhiannon's blue shibori scarf dries on the clothesline
Rhiannon’s blue shibori scarf dries on the clothesline

Cochineal gives us red, orange purple and pink depending on the color of the wool, the number of dips in the dye bath, and whether we use an acid or base to modify the color.

Rhiannon wears her finished indigo shibori scarf
Rhiannon wears her finished indigo shibori scarf

When cochineal is overdyed with indigo, the wool becomes deep purple or lavender or mauve, depending on the strength of the dye bath and the natural wool color.

Cochineal and variation to purple with indigo overdye
Cochineal red and with and indigo overdye, royal purple
Variations of indigo blue, depending on wool color and number of dye dips
Variations of indigo blue, depending on wool color and number of dye dips
Pomegranate (granada) before its overdyed.
Pomegranate (granada) dye on grey and white wool
Wild marigold (pericone) changes from yellow to green with indigo overdye
Pomegranate (granada) changes from sand yellow to green with indigo overdye
We loved this purple and bright fuchsia made with brazil wood (grey and white wool)
We love this purple and bright fuchsia made with brazil wood (grey and white wool)
Shibori cotton -- sewing into cloth for dye resist
My project, making a shibori cotton textile — sewing into cloth for dye resist
My project after immersion in the indigo dye bath
My project after immersion in the indigo dye bath
My project after taking out the threads to reveal the dye resist design
My project after taking out the threads to reveal the dye resist design
Rhiannon's samples: mahogany dyed shibori gets an indigo overdye
Rhiannon’s samples: mahogany dyed shibori gets an indigo overdye (top sample)
Another sample: mahogany with an overdye of ferrous oxide (rusty nails)
Another sample: mahogany with an overdye of ferrous oxide
Rhiannon made these tassels for a jewelry project and dyed the tips with cochineal
Rhiannon made these silk-steel tassels, dyed tips with cochineal, for jewelry project
Elsa dyed this cotton shirt with mahogany
Elsa dyed this cotton shirt with mahogany — color deepens in direct sun
Cochineal in an acide dye bath -- brilliant color
Cochineal in an acid dye bath — brilliant scarlet
Pericone before dipping into the indigo
Wild marigold (pericone) before dipping into the indigo
What the mahogany dipped in indigo sampler looks like when removed from the dye bath
Mahogany dipped in indigo sampler after removal from the dye bath
At the end of the day, dye formulas with color swatches for each dye and overdye
At the end of the day, dye formulas with color swatches for each example

And a memorable learning experience that is both rewarding and fun.

Hanging the yarn samples to dry, labeling them for the recipe cards
Hanging the yarn samples to dry, labeling them for the recipe cards
Natural dye workshop is on a rooftop terrace overlooking Oaxaca's historic center
Natural dye workshop is on a rooftop terrace in Oaxaca’s historic center

Oaxaca Natural Dye Workshops from Oaxaca Cultural Navigator

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