Monthly Archives: February 2025

Espadin Agave Replaces Native Landrace Corn Fields for Mezcal Production

We call native corn here CRIOLLO. This term refers to landrace varieties of plants that have adapted to local conditions over generations. Maiz (corn) criollo is a traditional, non-hybrid corn variety grown by indigenous and rural farmers. Criollo can mean something authentic, traditional, or deeply rooted in a region’s culture.

I’ve written a Substack essay about what I notice when I drive the Pan-American Highway between Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, and San Pablo Villa de Mitla. Even here in our small village of 6,500 people, my neighbors are planting espadin agave. Fewer and fewer fields are growing the traditional milpa — corn, squash, and beans.

This is an important topic for all of us who love Oaxaca, live here permanently, visit regularly, or come for a first-time exploration. Corn in Mexico is part of our culture.

Read Here!

I wonder if Monsanto (now owned by Bayer) will win the long game in Mexico, as native corn production declines and people need to eat. The nutritional value of genetically modified corn is questionable. Because it is grown with pesticides, scientists are afraid there are possible links to cancer and other health issues. GMO products are not labeled. GMO seeds are patented and controlled by large agribusinesses, cost more, and require chemical fertilizers.

When I return to the USA, I will bring back a couple of mezcal bottles for my son. He loves Gracias a Dios Agave Gin. I need to double-check with Emmy Hernandez to reconfirm that they do not use fertilizers in the growing process. It’s like, Who made my clothes? Who made my mezcal? Who grew the corn I eat? Sustainability is not to be taken lightly.

Pop-Up Sale: Norma’s Collection + Rugs, Teotitlan del Valle

When: Saturday, February 22, 2025

Time: 11:00 am to 3:00 pm

Where: Norma’s Casita, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca

RSVP: WhatsApp or text +1 919-274-6194. Send an RSVP and I’ll send directions.

Payments: We accept pesos, dollars, Zelle transfers. With PayPal, Venmo, and credit cards we add a 4% transaction fee.

Spend $100-299 and we will give you a $10 credit off your taxi ride, or $25 credit for anything over $300. Many choices for $20-$50 USD. Make sure you reserve your taxi for a round-trip. We are unable to get you a local taxi to return to Oaxaca. Share the ride and come with friends.

These are examples of what we are selling. They will be similar but not exactly the same. Textiles will be from San Mateo Del Mar woven by Francisca Palafox and her daughters, from Pinotepa de Don Luis, San Juan Colorado and other Oaxaca villages where we have traveled. Most are now too large for me to wear. There are also handwoven pieces from Guatemala where I have just returned. There are also textile yardage and jewelry. Rugs are woven by Tenido a Mano Studio and Galeria Fe y Lola. Refreshments available for including handmade tamales.

We are returning to Guatemala in 2026. If you are interested in joining us for a 10-day textile focused adventure and want more information, please email me.

Indigo Dye Workshop in Antigua, Guatemala

We are with our dear friend Olga Reiche who uses natural dyes on cotton thread and works with indigenous weavers in Coban, Guatemala. They weave very fine gauze cotton blusas in indigo, cochineal, wild marigold, avocado, and other plant materials used for dyeing. Olga has known me and Eric for many years and she agreed to only work with us for a specialized experience visiting textile weavers and villages in Guatemala. She knows all the best makers! We will do this 10-day textile exploration trip again in 2026 so send an email if you want to be notified about this.

These are photos of our indigo dye workshop with Olga—a half-day hands-on experience in Antigua.

With Pikbil Weaver Amalia Gue in Coban, Alta Verapaz

It’s a miracle for me to visit Amalia and her family of weavers in a remote area of Coban, which is seven hours by van from Antigua. I first met Amalia years ago at an expoventa for the Textile Museum in Oaxaca. I immediately made plans to see her again at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe. Our friend and guide Olga Reiche first encouraged her to apply and helped her get accepted.

What is pikbil? It is the finest weaving in Guatemala and perhaps the finest in the world. They use 20/1 ,finest 100% cotton thread available only found in Guatemala. A higher number on top indicates that this is fine one-ply thread. The weft threads are only softly beaten down on the warp creating a fine gauze fabric that is easy to wear in this tropical rain forest where orchids and coffee are grown. also finest quality will be a four-selvage textile — there is no hem. This is only achieved by a master weaver.

BTW the coffee here is the most delicious.

It takes one to two months to weave a pikbil blusa (blouse) and three months to weave a dress length garment. The attention to detail is amazing. One innovation is that Amalia is teaching the young men in her family to weave and they start at age seven, unraveling the plastic material from coffee bags to practice until they become proficient.

Teaching boys and girls to weave is important for their production and to keep up with special orders. Traditionally, men are farmers not weavers. They work the coffee fields. Originally, Germans came here in the 1800’s to start coffee plantations. Much of the land was later given to indigenous Quiche people to continue growing coffee.

There are sixty eight people in the Ixbalanke cooperative. It means Women of the Moon. They are now using colored warp and weft threads, but the tradition is white on white. The designs are pre-Hispanic, ancient, in fact.

There are new colors but the designs are very old. 

These communities were flooded 2020 by storms. Now they are restored and growing coffee and cardamom. Pine trees provide lumber.

The tradition is weaving by women. The men feel that they want to be part of and represent the culture. They have work and orders. How do the women feel about men weaving? They say that having men weave is important. Men can weave on a wider loom and longer. Men weave a little faster. So this work is very important. Everyone weaves between doing other activities. Women cook and care for the family. Men work the fields.

We are on a cultural expedition to learn about how people live and sustain themselves. There was a 30-year war here in indigenous communities perpetrated by the CIA to protect the United Fruit Company. And propped up a repressive right wing government. Many were killed and disappeared, including the fathers and brothers of women we met. Maya people fled to Chiapas and into the mountains to survive. There are residuals now and the suffering was huge.

if you want to come with us in 2026, please send an email expressing your interest.

if you want to come with us in 2026, please send an email expressing your interest.

							

Chichicastenango Market and Hotel San Ramon

Well, what’s to say but nothing less than spectacular, a treasure trove of textiles, art, vintage jewelry, and a cultural immersion experience. THIS is the famed Chichicastenango market, a warren of stalls almost as complex as the souk in Marrakech.

It took about three hours to get there from Antigua, not much compared to the five hours more to Coban, where we are now and on our way to visit famed pikbil weaver Amalia Gue.

If you would like to come with us in 2026, please send an email to get on the interested list.

For now, photos: