This will be the last of my 2021 sales. I leave Taos, NM on my way back to Oaxaca on Decemberr 11. This sale features some outstanding pieces from Oaxaca and Chiapas, including blusas, ponchos, quechquemitls, ruanas, scarves and shawls. Please order and purchase by December 9 so I can get your pieces in the mail by December 10 (if not before)! There are 14 pieces — be sure to scroll down to see 4 BONUS pieces of jewelry from New Mexico I have included.
As I return to Oaxxaca, I’ll be writing about covid travel safety and precautions, protecting oneself from the new omicron variant, and other related issues. Meanwhile, I want to follow-up, too, on what I’ve been writing about how to visit Oaxaca with cultural sensitivity during covid. Tourism is so important to Mexico. It makes up most of the income of the informal economy (independent artisans). We don’t want to discourage safe tourism. We do want to discuss how to be a guest in indigenous villages where people are especially vulnerability. Only now is Mexico authorizing boosters for people over age 60. Vaccine access and administration is still a big issue. Most under age 30 are not vaccinated.
Related to this is a recent conversation I’ve had with Susan Coss of La Mezcalistas.My question is: How is mezcal changing the face of Oaxaca? We will be talking more about this, too. I’m still processing my experience being in Oaxaca during Day of the Dead.
So, if you want to bring a bit of Oaxaca and Chiapas home, consider making a purchase of these beautiful garments. Perfect holiday adornment — whether you celebrate quietly or with family and friends in an atmosphere of safety and respect. These make special, unforgettable gifts, too.
How to buy: mailto:norma.schafer@icloud.com Tell me the item you want by number. Send me your mailing address. I will send you a PayPal invoice (or use Zelle or Venmo if you prefer — just tell me in your email!) after you ID your choices. The invoice will include the cost of the garment + $12 mailing. If you want more than one piece, I’m happy to combine mailing. I’ll be mailing from Taos, NM. Next day to the post office guaranteed if you order and buy before December 9. On December 11, I’m in transit to return to Oaxaca.
SOLD. #12422.1. This is the most precious of what I’m offering today. If you are a collector, don’t pass this one by. An amazing Egyptian cotton back strap loom woven huipil/blusa from San Juan Cotzocon in Oaxaca’s Sierra Mixe. A special and rare piece from Remigio Mestas. A black and white masterpiece. Measures 29” wide x 25-1/2” long. Original price $750. Yours for $495. SOLD. #12421.2. Called a ruana, this is an open front and sides poncho woven in Chiapas on the backstrap loom. 100% sturdy cotton adorned with sparkly silver threads — very festive and tasteful. Hand-twisted fringes. If you like, drape the front flaps over your shoulders and around your neck for warm and fashion drama. Measures 40” wide (each weft is 20” wide) x 26” long. $175.#12421.2 Back view.SOLD #12421.3. This is a French knot blouse from Francisca in Aguacatenango, Chiapas. I consider this a “second” because the bodice embroidery is not as dense as I like. So, I’m offering it at 50% less than the cost of the other blouses from her that I have listed before. Size M-L. Measures 26” wide arm pit to arm pit. Embroidered part is 13-1/2” wide. 28” long. $65.SOLD #12421.4. Back strap loom woven scarf by Carmen Rion, Mexican designer who works with Chiapas artisans. Measures 21-1/2” wide x 90” long. Wrap it double around your neck for added warm! A graphic masterpiece in juicy lime and black. $125SOLD. #12421.5 From the Amusgos weavers of Xochistlahuaca, Guerrero, a rare hand-spun scarf with homegrown native green, coyuche and white cotton — woven on the back strap loom. Wear it or hang it! 10-1/2” wide x 62” long. $75SOLD #12421.6 Black and White blouse with crocheted neck trim woven on the back strap loom in Venustiano Carranza, Chiapas. Gauze weave. Perfect for hot summers or layer it over a Heatech long-sleeve T for winter comfort. Size M. Measures 23” wide x 24” long. $75SOLD. #12421.7 Colorful scarf from Zinacantan, Chiapas. Fold it in a triangle and tie it at your neck. Guaranteed to perk up any outfit. 23” x 22”. Almost square! Handwoven on the backstrap loom. 100% cotton. $75SOLD #12421.8 From Fabrica Sociale, a Chiapas cooperative, this poncho-blouse has all the fine detailing one would expect from a perfectly woven garment. The peach background shimmers because it is interwoven with contrasting pale yellow threads. The shoulders and side seams are closed with what is called a randa — very fine needlework. Measures 40” wide x 20” long. $85#12421.9 Black, White and Red Neck Scarf hand-woven on the backstrap loom in Venustiano Carranza, Chiapas. Fold it in a triangle and tie it around your neck for pizzaz. Hand-tied tassles and fringes. Almost square. Measures 23” wide x 24” long. $75#12421.10 A beautiful quechquemitl poncho in turquoise shimmering cloth from the studio of Remigio Mestas. 100% cotton. Drape and wear as a scarf, short poncho or general cover-up. Turn it so the points are in the front for an alternate look! Fashion for stripes going down back or across shoulders. Measures 36” wide x 22” long. $120SOLD. BONUS: #12421.11 A pair of Santo Domingo Kewa Pueblo earrings with shell and precious stones inlaid on base of black jet. Dramatic. Mother of pearl, turquoise, jet, spiny oyster. Post backs. Made by famous artist Mary Tafoya who has been featured at the Santa Fe Folk Art Market and Indian Market, New Mexico. 3/4” wide at bottom. 2-1/2” long. $175BONUS. #12421.12 Vintage pawn Navajo turquoise and silver cuff, likely from the 30’s or 40’s. Unmarked. Probably coin silver. Rare. 1-5/8” wide at widest part. Center stone measures 1” x 3/4”. This is a SIZE SMALL. Opening is 3/4” wide. Cuff on the inside measures 5” so the total is 5-3/4” I have seen similar in museum shops and Santa Fe galleries for $1,295. Yours for $650. #12421.12. Side view. No chips or cracks. Excellent vintage condition. #12421.12 Side view with stamp work and twisted metal bezel.#12421.12 Inside view. Weighty but comfortable.BONUS. #12421.13 Shell inlaid with jet, mother of pearl and turquoise. Measures 3” wide at widest point and 3-1/4” long. Chain not included. From Kewa Santo Domingo Pueblo, between Albuquerque and Santa Fe, New Mexico. $165BONUS. #12421.14 Shell pendant with inlaid turquoise, mother of pearl, jet and sterling silver. By Kewa Santo Domingo Pueblo jewelry maker Warren Nieto. 1-1/2” wide x 2-1/2” long. Chain not included. $125
Under the Palace of the Governors portal sit Native American artisans, displaying their craft. They may sit on small camp stools or cross-legged on a blanket waiting for us. Their hang tags tell their name, their pueblo, and authenticate what they sell. This is a juried system.
The portal at the Palace of the Governors calls to me because it is a place of discovery. I have spoken with gallery owners in Taos and Santa Fe who tell me they found artisans they represent here along this arcade. A keen eye can differentiate quality
This Warren Nieto pendant is for sale. $185.
Who is able to sell each day is based on a lottery. Just as I visit artisan studios throughout Mexico to understand the craftsmanship and to create connection, when I find someone who makes something extraordinary, I want to know more. To see how something is made is to understand the calculus of time and materials, passion, art and history. This is how we put value on something handmade.
Warren and his son in the studio
It’s more than that. To see how people live and work, to meet their families, to understand their culture and origins, hear who they learned from and appreciate the traditions of creativity, gives added meaning to the experience. It becomes more than shopping. It is the next level to an ancient practice of sharing, bartering, collaboration and respect.
The swirls are inlaid slices of shellA pile turquoise, mother-of-pearl, apple coral, spiny oyster, river shell, jet (fossilized coal)
We got to the Plaza early that day, before 9:30 a.m. Leslie spotted Warren Nieto first, noticed his fine heishi beadwork and mosaic inlay. His thunderbird design earrings were perfectly executed. There were three pair, one for her, one for Kaola and one for me. We struck a bargain for the three and paid cash. I asked if we could visit his studio to see how he constructed his pieces and get a demonstration. We set a day and time.
Warren Nieto’s Thunderbird Earrings, NFSFossilized stone with shell impression
Eugene Sanchez was also at the Palace portal that day. I didn’t recognize him but I recognized the fine, tiny pieces of gemstone inlay work I bought from his wife Georgia two years ago. I asked him if we could visit, too.
Eugene and Georgia Sanchez earrings and Thunderbird necklace, NFSEugene Sanchez and granddaughter
Eugene’s story is not unique. He’s a military veteran. He worked construction in northern California, had a back injury and returned to his family roots to revive their Native American jewelry making. He learned from his grandmother and father. The work is extraordinary.
Warren’s unfinished work — in the rough
I had traveled the Rio Grande River Valley pueblos in the 1970’s, but had never visited the Kewa (Santo Domingo) village. I was more interested in pottery then. This would be an adventure. We drove south on I-25 for about 40 minutes and then turned off to head west. In the distance, beyond the vast sand-colored desert was a ribbon of green cottonwood where the river flowed fast. Summer rains and winter snow melts ensure an abundance of water.
Raw materials: spiny oyster and caracol shells
Warren Nieto lives with his family in a new modular home behind a vacant trading post, a vestige of the old west and tourism dream that didn’t materialize. He worked carpentry and framing before he returned to the craft he earned from his family. He’s 32 years old.
We were told to respect what your grandparents taught you, he says. Growing up, I learned to make heishi beads and tend the corn fields. We were taught that jewelry making was something to come back to. I do it to create something that others appreciate and value.
Warren speaks Keres to his son, who hovers nearby. This is an ancient language, he explains, and he’s not worried about losing it. The Kewa people adhere to tradition. He says its linguistic roots are Aztec (Nahuatl). I tell him common belief is that the Aztecs came from the north into what is now Mexico in search of a fertile land where the eagle would perch on a cactus, overcome the serpent and lead them to water. Is it likely they originated from this part of New Mexico?
I am organizing a 2020 folk art study tour into the tribal areas of New Mexico with Sheri Brautigam, who lives in Santa Fe. We will visit a curated group of jewelers, weavers and potters, and attend a Native American festival. If you are interested in joining us, please send me an email so I can add you to the announcement list: email norma.schafer@icloud.com
Norma Writes for Selvedge Magazine Issues #89 + #109
Creating Connectionand Meaning between travelers and with indigenous artisans. Meet makers where they live and work. Join small groups of like-minded explorers. Go deep into remote villages. Gain insights. Support cultural heritage and sustainable traditions ie. hand weaving and natural dyeing. Create value and memories. Enjoy hands-on experiences. Make a difference.
What is a Study Tour: Our programs are designed as learning experiences, and as such we talk with makers about how and why they create, what is meaningful to them in their designs, the ancient history of patterning and design, use of color, tradition and innovation, values and cultural continuity, and the social context within which they work. First and foremost, we are educators. Norma worked in top US universities for over 35 years and Eric founded the education department at Oaxaca’s textile museum. We create connection and help artisans reach people who value them and their work.
Why We Left, Expat Anthology: Norma’s Personal Essay
Norma contributes personal essay, How Oaxaca Became Home
We Contribute Two Chapters!
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Meet Makers. Make a Difference
Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC has offered programs in Mexico since 2006. We have over 30 years of university, textile and artisan development experience. See About Us.
Programs can be scheduled to meet your independent travel plans. Send us your available dates.
Designers, retailers, wholesalers, curators, universities and others come to us to develop artisan relationships, customized itineraries, study abroad programs, meetings and conferences. It's our pleasure to make arrangements.
Select Clients *Abeja Boutique, Houston *Selvedge Magazine-London, UK *Esprit Travel and Tours *Penland School of Crafts *North Carolina State University *WARP Weave a Real Peace *Methodist University *MINNA-Goods *Smockingbird Kids *University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill
October 27, 2023: Day of the Dead Ocotlan Highway Tour. It’s Market Day! The biggest of the year. See special altar food and decor, visit artisans, explore culture, eat at a traditional open air cocina de humo (grill kitchen). SOLD OUT.
October 29, 2023: Teotitlan del Valle Altars and Studio Visits to natural dye and weaving artisans who invite you to their altar rooms to share family traditions. Meet a traditional beeswax candlemaker. Eat mole and mezcal in a local family comedor. 6 SPACES OPEN.
We offer textile experiences in our studio where we weave and work only in natural dyes.You can see the process during our textile tours and dye workshops. Ask us for more information about these experiences, customized scheduling, and prices.
Oaxaca has the largest and most diverse textile culture in Mexico! Learn about it.
When you visit Oaxaca immerse yourself in our textile culture: How is indigenous clothing made, what is the best value, most economical, finest available. Suitable for adults only. Set your own dates.
One-Day Custom Tours: Tell Us When You Want to Go!
New--Ruta del Mezcal One-Day Tour.We start the day with pottery, visiting a master, then have lunch with a Traditional Oaxaca Cook who is the master of mole making. In Mitla, we meet with our favorite flying shuttle loom weaver, and then finish off with a mezcal tasting at a palenque you will NEVER find on your own! Schedule at your convenience!
January 13-21, 2024: Oaxaca Coast Textile Study Tour. Very popular! Get your deposit in to reserve. For intrepid travelers. Visit 7 back-strap loom weavers. Explore the culture of cloth and community. SOLD OUT!
March 28-April 3:Screenwriting for Film + Television with Harry Werksman, Golden Globe award winning writer. Develop character, plot, scene. Learn what it takes to pitch a story. Take your ideas from concept to delivery. NEW!
Stay Healthy. Stay Safe. Questions? Want TO REGISTER or more info? Send an email to Norma Schafer.
Maps: Teotitlan + Tlacolula Market
We require 48-hour advance notice for map orders to be processed. We send a printable map via email PDF after your order is received. Please be sure to send your email address. Where to see natural dyed rugs in Teotitlan del Valle and layout of the Sunday Tlacolula Market, with favorite eating, shopping, ATMs. Click Here to Buy Map After you click, be sure to check PayPal to ensure your email address isn't hidden from us. We fulfill each map order personally. It is not automatic.
Dye Master Dolores Santiago Arrellanas with son Omar Chavez Santiago, weaver and dyer, Fey y Lola Rugs, Teotitlan del Valle