Tag Archives: tour

Photo Workshop Day 3: Luvia’s Grandmother +

We met at Luvia’s photography studio at 9:30 a.m. Before that, most of us returned to the village market to take more pictures. The early morning light here is illuminating. The light plays with shadows and texture; there is so much to capture the eye. This is a daily market in Teotitlan del Valle, one of the few remaining here in indigenous culture. During Dia de los Muertos, as families buy flowers, bread, chocolate, fruit, candles to decorate graves and home altars, the market is even more resplendent.

At the studio, we send photos to Luvia’s computer and then have a look-see with a discussion about each of our works taken the day before and this morning. We were frantically editing the ones from this morning to get these ready to send. We talked about composition, cropping, lighting, finding the details, getting closer to our subjects than many of us are comfortable with. It’s an exercise in asking permission to photograph and then stepping into a space that is tighter than usual.

We began to see our world differently and with more definition.

We especially enjoyed our visit to the home of Luvia’s grandmother. She is age 78. Many women age faster here, especially the older generation who have borne and raised many children, and did everything by hand including: shucking corn from the cob, washing laundry and dishes, carrying water, preparing meals three times a day, and feeding the farm animals — chickens, goats, turkeys, cows. Each morning they walked to the market and home again throughout their lives where the daily social contact there was so important. Many ducked into the local convenience store to sip mezcal together and catch up on gossip.

Then it was home again to do everything necessary to keep an extended-family household going.

We were so happy this workshop fit into Luvia’s schedule. Her work has been featured in The New Yorker and Vogue magazines, and she has had exhibitions in the USA and Europe. Fujifilm and Leica awarded her grants as a rising star, and she will be going to New York to participate in an arts residency in 2025. Both Luvia and I agree: we do not want to hold workshops during Day of the Dead — November 1 and November 2. We want this to be quiet time with our families to reflect on meaning, loss, life and death, and to remember our loved ones.

Here are some of the photos I took that day in the market and with Luvia’s grandmother:

And here is my Day Of the Dead Altar to remember my parents. I call it my Memory Altar. It looks very much the same year after year, which is very reassuring.

Photography Workshop Day Two: Portraits + More

On the second day of our photography workshop in Teotitlan del Valle, our instructor, Luvia Lazo Gutierrez, made appointments with families to visit them in their homes. This was an incredible exercise to capture a more intimate view of village life and to understand the technical aspects of light, shadow, distance, and perspective. Luvia, whose work is featured in The New Yorker magazine, Vogue magazine, and represented in U.S. galleries, made suggestions for ways to best focus on portrait elements. In addition, we took turns photographing each other, which was very fun.

We visited two weaving families and a practice session for the new Dance of the Feathers group. Luvia asked us to look at subjects differently — to move close up with our feet rather than using the zoom feature, to focus on elements such as hands and feet or a particular section of the body. We challenged ourselves to be more conceptual rather than literal. It was an excellent learning experience.

Since it’s Halloween today, I want to make an important distinction between this tradition rooted in Catholicism, and Day of the Dead which is rooted in pre-Hispanic indigenous tradition. Day of the Dead is NOT Halloween. It is an important ritual to remember, respect, and honor those we love who have passed before us. It is quiet, reflective, introspective, and reverent. We sit at gravesites cleaned and decorated with fresh flowers, fruit, vegetables, drinks that loved ones preferred, talk to them, and feel their presence even though they are gone from us.

Visitors have brought the film Coco to Oaxaca, with face painting, revelry, and little understanding of indigenous culture. Day of the Dead is NOT this.

Here are some of the photos I took on Day Two:

Wabi-Sabi. Making Beauty from Broken Pottery

Annie, my friend from Taos and traveling companion, spent the afternoon in a kintsugi workshop in the Aoyama neighborhood of Tokyo.
Kintsugi is the process of mending broken pottery and lining the cracks with a combination of a special glue and filling them with 24k gold powder.

Wabi-Sabi is the philosophy of making something whole from imperfection. Imperfection is honored here. It recognizes that nothing in life is perfect. things can be repaired and made whole again is a practice that applies to everything in life, including all things in life — people, nature.

“Kintsugi is a traditional Japanese technique of repairing broken ceramics with gold or silver. This method embodies the aesthetic of wabi-sabi, which finds beauty in imperfection and the natural aging process. The beauty of imperfection is not about hiding flaws such as cracks or chips; instead, it is about emphasizing them through kintsugi, creating a new kind of beauty. On the other hand, the beauty of aging means finding new value in things that naturally change over time, gaining unique textures and charms as they age or wear. Kintsugi realizes these concepts, breathing new life into broken objects and creating a new kind of beauty. On the other hand, the beauty of aging means finding new value in things that naturally change over time, gaining unique textures and charms as they age or wear. Kintsugi realizes these concepts, breathing new life into broken objects and creating a distinctive form of beauty.”

The lacquer used in Kintsugi is a sap collected from the lacquer tree, which is purified to remove impurities. The types of lacquer commonly used include raw lacquer (kurushi), clear lacquer (sukiurushi), wheat lacquer (mugiurushi), rust lacquer (sabiurushi), engraved lacquer (kokusourushi), black lacquer (kuroroiurushi), and picture lacquer (eiurushi).

Lacquer rash is an allergic reaction caused by a component in lacquer called urushiol, which can cause symptoms such as redness, eczema, swelling, and itching. In severe cases, it can even cause difficulty breathing, so caution is needed when handling it. However, products coated with fully dried lacquer typically do not cause rashes, and lacquerware craftsmen often develop immunity to lacquer, making them less prone to rashes.

The drying time for lacquer depends greatly on humidity and temperature. Generally, a humidity of 70% to 85% and a temperature of 20* C to 30° C are required for drying lacquer, and craftsmen use a controlled environment called a “lacquer bath” for this process. The drying time varies depending on the type of lacquer used, the season, and the conditions of the lacquer bath, usually taking half a day to a day.

Our finished pieces were carefully put into a container. We were told to keep it there for two weeks, then carefully remove them to let them air cure for another two weeks —a month total.

It was an amazing experience. If you are interested in coming with us to Japan in October 2025, please send me an email. I can’t guarantee we will do this workshop. Perhaps it is something you could do on your own before or after the tour.

Sashiko in Takayama

I spent the morning with Keiko-San at her home gallery twenty steps away from the Red Bridge. There is a green bridge, white bridge, and red bridge here. Landmarks to navigate location. Japanese are very organized and clean. Hisa, a local translator, met me at the red bridge along with Keiko-San to take me to her house. As we entered i was asked to take off my shoes before climbing the steep stairs to where she lives.

Keiko-San is a master Sashiko embroiderer. She does not have a shop. One must know about her and arrange a meeting through her son who lives in the US. I was grateful to have Hisa with me to make the communication easier.

Upon arriving upstairs, I was surrounded by this Japanese artwork of making little embroidery stitches on hand dyed indigo cloth. I was there for two hours. We even worked together to make two beautiful berets a bit smaller to fit. Fun is not enough to describe the experience.

Of course I bought something and if I never bought another piece of clothing in my life, this would be enough. My friend Svetlana Suggested I visit Keiko and also referred me to Hisa. Going into an artisan’s home is what I treasure most. I hope to return someday. Perhaps in 2025!

if you want to go to Japan with us in late 2025, please send me an email to get on the interested list.

Japan Blue and Pottery

it’s now 8:09 am. We are 13 hours ahead of you. I’m not sure how to calculate when the debate will happen or if we missed it.

the started with $9 cups of coffee — price unknown to us in the Hotel Granvia lobby cafe until we were presented with the check. Saving grace is there is no tipping in Japan.

We first took a taxi to the famed Nishiki Market filled with restaurants, food stalls and boutiques. We pick out an oyster restaurant where they are as big as fists. Then, we set out to meander and got stalled at Japan Blue. This shop showcases indigo dyed blue jeans and jackets from Okoyama, the town where the fabric is dyed and sewn.

Then, a taxi to meet ceramics pottery expert Robert Yellin, who has lived in Japan for many years. We did not take a tour with him (we will save that for our Japan 2025 tour). We spent about an hour and a half with him learning about the ancient and traditional pottery techniques here. Most of what he carries are rare and collectible pieces. He has sold and exhibited to museums a d clients throughout the US.

To thank him for his invitation to visit, I presented him with a box of green tea (matcha) mochi rice candies. He poured and gave us green tea to sip as we arrived and heard more from him. Gifting and reciprocity are very important here.

To get on our list to consider coming with us to Japan in October 2025, send me an email.