Tag Archives: travel

Photo Workshop Day 3: Luvia’s Grandmother +

We met at Luvia’s photography studio at 9:30 a.m. Before that, most of us returned to the village market to take more pictures. The early morning light here is illuminating. The light plays with shadows and texture; there is so much to capture the eye. This is a daily market in Teotitlan del Valle, one of the few remaining here in indigenous culture. During Dia de los Muertos, as families buy flowers, bread, chocolate, fruit, candles to decorate graves and home altars, the market is even more resplendent.

At the studio, we send photos to Luvia’s computer and then have a look-see with a discussion about each of our works taken the day before and this morning. We were frantically editing the ones from this morning to get these ready to send. We talked about composition, cropping, lighting, finding the details, getting closer to our subjects than many of us are comfortable with. It’s an exercise in asking permission to photograph and then stepping into a space that is tighter than usual.

We began to see our world differently and with more definition.

We especially enjoyed our visit to the home of Luvia’s grandmother. She is age 78. Many women age faster here, especially the older generation who have borne and raised many children, and did everything by hand including: shucking corn from the cob, washing laundry and dishes, carrying water, preparing meals three times a day, and feeding the farm animals — chickens, goats, turkeys, cows. Each morning they walked to the market and home again throughout their lives where the daily social contact there was so important. Many ducked into the local convenience store to sip mezcal together and catch up on gossip.

Then it was home again to do everything necessary to keep an extended-family household going.

We were so happy this workshop fit into Luvia’s schedule. Her work has been featured in The New Yorker and Vogue magazines, and she has had exhibitions in the USA and Europe. Fujifilm and Leica awarded her grants as a rising star, and she will be going to New York to participate in an arts residency in 2025. Both Luvia and I agree: we do not want to hold workshops during Day of the Dead — November 1 and November 2. We want this to be quiet time with our families to reflect on meaning, loss, life and death, and to remember our loved ones.

Here are some of the photos I took that day in the market and with Luvia’s grandmother:

And here is my Day Of the Dead Altar to remember my parents. I call it my Memory Altar. It looks very much the same year after year, which is very reassuring.

Oaxaca Street Life and Re-Entry

On Monday, despite bumping around a bit in the sky atop the last remnants of a tropical storm that painted a picturesque landscape of layered clouds as we came in for a landing, I arrived in Oaxaca. Re-entry was easy. I’m always grateful to pick up my luggage from the conveyor belt after passing through immigration, and then hit the button for customs. Hit a green button and you are waived through. Hit a red button and you are pulled aside to have your luggage inspected. It’s the luck of the draw.

We walked to dinner at Sur a Norte, an always reliable favorite cafe bar that serves up very good food at a fair price. You can almost reach out and touch Santo Domingo church, located just across the cobblestone road. We recommend the tacos (any flavor will do).

Over the next two days in the city, I walked ten to twelve thousand steps each day. I covered a lot of territory. What I noticed was the proliferation of mezcal bars and tasting rooms. There is, it seems, one on every street corner, plus another one or two mid-block. No one has to leave Oaxaca thirsty. After all, we are billed as the mezcal capital of the world. Most don’t open until late afternoon, but that won’t stop a serious drinker from finding an open watering hole.

My first destination on Tuesday morning, after breakfast with Carol, Elsa and Eric at Yegole in Jalatlaco (more about this later), I headed to my favorite haberdashery, Alberle Hats on Calle Armenta y Lopez, southeast of the Zocalo. This time, instead of my usual beaver felted hat (half the cost of any in the USA), I wanted a handwoven straw hat from Michoacan. It’s still warm and sunny here, despite the fact that Taos, New Mexico, weather is cooling down to what my body calls almost frigid. Nightime lows there are thirty-six degrees. Brrrr.

The breakfast at Yegole was so delicious and satisfying — a gluten-free house-made toasted bagel slathered in bacon, cheese, grilled onions, and avocado — that I wanted another opportunity the following morning to indulge in chilaquiles with green salsa with an over-easy egg and well-cooked bacon on the side. Oh, I forgot to mention that on both days I ordered a banana-chocolate smoothie that was like eating dessert. Why not?

We managed to snag a lunch table later in the afternoon at Los Danzantes, by far my favorite Oaxaca restaurant. It is almost impossible to get in now, and I don’t think I’ve dined there in over two years. Don’t miss the coconut coated giant shrimp. I had two vegetable dishes, one a roasted cauliflower and the other roasted carrots floating on a beet puree. The best dessert is the goat cheese flan and we indulged.

While I’m not shopping for much, I did a loop through Miniso. This is a Chinese-Japanese owned variety store that features an excellent assortment of household items, cosmetics, toys, tech gizmos, stationery, and doo-dads. There is always something there that I need and want!

Then, it was off to Xiguela organic food store in Jalatlaco to stock up on lettuce (pre-washed and sanitized), zucchini, tomatoes, Manchego cheese, and avocados. Here in Oaxaca, the avocados are about ten cents each. We eat a lot of them. They were out of miso soup, so I’m going to need to go scouting.

It’s a week before Dia de los Muertos. The city is beginning to decorate and the state-sponsored tianguis — the outdoor shopping mall housed under tents near Santo Domingo Church — are being erected. The decor continues to be over the top exciting and each year there is a surprise that hangs over the main walking street, Andador Macedonio Alcala.

We can fit one more person into our October 30, Day of the Dead Tour, and we can take two more in our Teotitlan photography workshop from October 27 to 29 with Luvia Lazo. If you are in Oaxaca now, consider joining us.

Don’t forget to order:

Returning to Oaxaca for Day of the Dead

Day of the Dead in Oaxaca is a magical experience, especially if you spend it in the villages. This December will mark my twentieth year of being there. I’m thinking about how to celebrate and involve you in the celebration! All ideas and suggestions are welcome. In 2007 i began writing this blog, so another celebration will come up in two years. We need to consider many ways we can celebrate this year as contentious politics feel so overwhelming. (I voted today, BTW).

It’s always hard getting ready to leave and figure out what to pack. I packed and repacked my luggage several times today. I imagine I will continue to edit it so I can carry one medium-size suitcase. I leave Taos on Saturday and will spend two nights with my son and daughter-in-law in Albuquerque before flying south on Monday. It’s not too soon. A cold front came in yesterday, the skies are cloudy and overcast and rain is coming that could turn to snow flurries. This is what happens here in mid-October. It’s Mother Nature helping us get ready for winter. An extra bag is filled with winter outerwear; I’ll leave it behind to have it when I get back in mid-November in time for the holidays.

This year Muertos will be extra-special. My photographer friend Luvia Lazo will be leading a three-day workshop photo experience in Teotitlan del Valle from October 27 to October 29. I’m going to participate. Luvia explains that each of us will create a small photography project with a narrative — telling a story through photographs. We will cover basic technical concepts like ISO, aperture and shutter speed, adapting the session to those of us who use iPhones. We will practice taking portraits, do field photography practice by visiting the homes of local people, and iconic sites around the village. Luvia will focus on capturing light and shadow, as well as surreal environments. Each day, participants will present their photographs and receive constructive feedback.

If this is something that interests you, please send me an email. We have space for two more people!

The following day, Eric Chavez Santiago is leading a group of 15 people (we have room for one more person) to explore Dia de los Muertos through the eyes of artisans. For this Day of the Dead Bucket List Tour, the group will visit the market, make an altar, participate in an indigo dye workshop, have a traditional lunch with a local family, and better understand how a traditional Oaxaca village celebrates the memory of her ancestors through conversation and a unique experience.

Then, after Muertos is over, I’ll be taking the dogs for a walk in the campo, catching up with friends, and talking with rug designer/importer Scott Roth about writing his memoir about Oaxaca life in the 1970s when he first came as a young man from Southern California. Scott was one of the first people to transform woven textiles known as serapes and blankets into floor rugs to meet the demand for Santa Fe Style. By the way, I’m recovering from spinal fusion surgery very well and intend to do a lot of walking (with the aid of two hiking poles).

I hope you continue to read the blog and think about when you will come to Oaxaca to experience the richness of culture — and if you hve been before, think about when you will return.

Sending all best wishes, Norma

Sashiko in Takayama

I spent the morning with Keiko-San at her home gallery twenty steps away from the Red Bridge. There is a green bridge, white bridge, and red bridge here. Landmarks to navigate location. Japanese are very organized and clean. Hisa, a local translator, met me at the red bridge along with Keiko-San to take me to her house. As we entered i was asked to take off my shoes before climbing the steep stairs to where she lives.

Keiko-San is a master Sashiko embroiderer. She does not have a shop. One must know about her and arrange a meeting through her son who lives in the US. I was grateful to have Hisa with me to make the communication easier.

Upon arriving upstairs, I was surrounded by this Japanese artwork of making little embroidery stitches on hand dyed indigo cloth. I was there for two hours. We even worked together to make two beautiful berets a bit smaller to fit. Fun is not enough to describe the experience.

Of course I bought something and if I never bought another piece of clothing in my life, this would be enough. My friend Svetlana Suggested I visit Keiko and also referred me to Hisa. Going into an artisan’s home is what I treasure most. I hope to return someday. Perhaps in 2025!

if you want to go to Japan with us in late 2025, please send me an email to get on the interested list.

Japan Blue and Pottery

it’s now 8:09 am. We are 13 hours ahead of you. I’m not sure how to calculate when the debate will happen or if we missed it.

the started with $9 cups of coffee — price unknown to us in the Hotel Granvia lobby cafe until we were presented with the check. Saving grace is there is no tipping in Japan.

We first took a taxi to the famed Nishiki Market filled with restaurants, food stalls and boutiques. We pick out an oyster restaurant where they are as big as fists. Then, we set out to meander and got stalled at Japan Blue. This shop showcases indigo dyed blue jeans and jackets from Okoyama, the town where the fabric is dyed and sewn.

Then, a taxi to meet ceramics pottery expert Robert Yellin, who has lived in Japan for many years. We did not take a tour with him (we will save that for our Japan 2025 tour). We spent about an hour and a half with him learning about the ancient and traditional pottery techniques here. Most of what he carries are rare and collectible pieces. He has sold and exhibited to museums a d clients throughout the US.

To thank him for his invitation to visit, I presented him with a box of green tea (matcha) mochi rice candies. He poured and gave us green tea to sip as we arrived and heard more from him. Gifting and reciprocity are very important here.

To get on our list to consider coming with us to Japan in October 2025, send me an email.