Monthly Archives: July 2009

‘Making Rights a Reality: The Oaxaca Social Movement’ by Lynn Stephen

This was sent along to me from Duke University faculty who are using it as a teaching and learning resource.  Thought you’d be interested.

For those of you who haven’t already seen it, I wanted to pass along the link to Lynn Stephen’s new digital ethnography, “Making Rights a Reality:  The Oaxaca Social Movement, 2006 – present”: http://www.mraroaxaca.uoregon.edu/ It is built around 35 video-testimonials recorded in Spanish with English subtitles and links to YouTube. It also includes documents, photos, and events videos. In addition to having some compelling new information about what has gone down recently in Oaxaca, this would be great for either an intro class or  an advanced undergrad methods class — there’s a lot to work with in terms of different kinds of sources and putting sources in conversation with one another.  The site is organized into thematic chapters, but it seems like each of them can more or less stand alone, if you wanted to use them in different units of a course.  I haven’t had a chance to use it in the classroom myself — it just went live in late May — but I’m excited to incorporate it into my syllabi.

Many thanks to Lynn for sending this to me — if you have any questions, you might want to contact her directly at stephenl@uoregon.edu.

Puebla Scenes: Antiques and Art

Our wanderings took us to Meson Sacristia de la Campania for comida, recommended by the NY Times.  Address 6 Sur 304, Callejon de los Sapos.  This is an area of arts and antique shops, and the small boutique hotel and restaurant delivered what was promised: an atmosphere full of colonial style antiques and great food.  The ambiance was a bit over the top for me (bright deep fuscia walls, for example) but the mole poblano and quesadilla stuffed with squash blossoms and quesillo was perfect.  The price was right too.  After lunch, we spilled out onto the cobblestones and meandered in and out of the shops to discover extraordinary old wood doors, tiles and other salvage along with antique pottery and talavera.

Puebla: Discount Talavera Shopping — Hunter and Gatherer Heaven

After you go to the premiere mecca for talavera ceramics, the venerable Uriarte, Calle 4 Poniente 911, where you will find the most extraordinary authenticated DO4 masterpieces in the city, take a taxi or a hike to the other side of town to the Parian.  Ask for the factory of Talavera Armando (they own practically the entire street) where you will find the chief manager.  I went in and after looking at the beautiful wares (some of them DO4 and most of them of ‘colonial’) I asked if they had a seconds room.  The question is:  Hay una sala de segundas?  Stephen and I were led to the shop next door, where our salesman unlocked a door at the back of the shop labeled ‘no admittance’ and let us in.  The floors were covered in boxes filled with ceramics, as were floor to ceiling stacked shelves.  It is a hunter and gatherers heaven.  Of course, the quest for any bargain shopper worth her salt is to discover the great finds, the treasures, hidden admidst the lower quality goods.  Here was no exception.  The salesman was joined by two others who wanted to practice their English (one was starting University of Florida in the fall), and they pitched in to help us find DO4 quality plates and bowls.  The discount goes from 30-50 percent!  Well worth the trouble and the fun of discovery!

Of note:  Uriarte has a seconds room only at Christmas time, which I discovered on this trip after asking, since when I had visited in December there was an entire area devoted to beautiful pieces that had big discounts.

Below are photos I took at the Uriarte showroom.  No time for photos at Talavera Armando — too much shopping to do!

Puebla: Talavera Kitchen @ Ex-Convento Santa Rosa Museo

Twenty-nine Dominican nuns centuries ago took vows of silence, wore crowns of thorns, and slept in rough wool habits on wood platforms to demonstrate their adoration of God, isolated from the rest of the world.  (Remember, the Dominicans started the Spanish inquisition.)  And, they made extraordinary mole poblano in a kitchen here in the Santa Rosa convent encased in talavera tile.   Talavera was imported by the Spanish to Puebla as part of their Moorish inheritance.  Moor (Arabic) craftsmen were brought from Spain to help build this city.  The original tiles in this kitchen have three marks on the face of each, indicating where they were supported in the kiln by small pieces of clay, stacked for the firing.  This is a spectacular grand finale to a convent museum tour offered only in Spanish.  The museum collection contains ceramics, textiles, furniture and households items, marriage chests, polychrome trees of life, and other

indigenous and Spanish artifacts.  The tour is guided and the cost is minimal.  It is worth the hour visit just to get to the kitchen, and there is a special room devoted to the best quality talavera ceramics in the city.

Puebla Shopping: Avenida de Camotes

On Calle 6 Oriente between 4 Norte and 5 de Mayo is one of my favorite streets in the world, lined with candy shops that also sell extraordinary talavera ceramics.  This is not ordinary candy.  It is made from the pulp of sweet potatoes and take on a multitude of shapes and flavors.  The best shop, Dulce Sta. Clara de Lirio, is in the second block from 5 de Mayo going toward the outskirts of town in the direction of the talavera market street.  The camotes here are made on the premises and people come from Mexico City especially to buy.  It is owned by a beautiful, aging couple who look to be quintessentially regal and the sweets are delicious.

I am on the hunt to find the shop where I purchased four beautiful hand painted talavera ceramic DO4 mugs made by Virgilio Perez last December.  In and out of shops, I have a visual image of the space, and finally find it several store fronts down from Lirio.  It is called La Flor de Santa Clara.  There is an abundant selection of mugs and Stephen and I choose four more.  The cost is $140 pesos each (which converts to $10.60 each).  I ask for a discount; they offer $520 pesos for the four; I counter with $500 pesos for all or $38 USD, and the deal is accepted.

We stop at Hotel Royalty sidewalk cafe on the Zocalo for drinks and a light supper snack before heading back to the hotel.  Couples and families stroll.  Balloon vendors entice children.  A thrill for the toddlers are the young men who blow big soap suds bubbles as the children run to capture translucent balls and squeeze them before they hit the ground to disappear. Lovers sit on the ancient wall bordering the Church of the Angels, snatching kisses. We walk hand in hand back to Camino Real Puebla as the magic hour between afternoon and sunset descends.

Stephen with Camotes

Stephen with Camotes

Photos on this page by Stephen Hawthorne and Norma Hawthorne