Monthly Archives: January 2010

Puebla in Twelve Hours: Stop Over From Oaxaca to Mexico City

My favorite way to travel is to take an early morning bus from Oaxaca to Puebla, spent the afternoon shopping and the evening dining, stay overnight, and then catch the morning Estrella Roja express bus directly to the Mexico City airport.  Travel from the U.S. to Mexico City is much cheaper than flying directly to Oaxaca, and the bonus is this time in Puebla, a city that I love for its magnificent talavera tile-covered 16th, 17th and 18th century historic buildings, fabulous food (indigenous, Spanish and nuevo cocina), art, antiques and great pedestrian avenues.

On this trip we just returned from on January 9, 2010, we revisited our favorite Puebla restaurant El Mural de los Poblanos, two blocks from the Zocalo on Av. 16 de Septiembre just before the corner of 7 Poniente, right around the corner from the Camino Real Puebla.  Chef Lisette continues to work miracles with food and we applaud her talents.   The place is cozy, welcoming, and everyone is attentive.  The service is extraordinary and the food is delicious and reasonably priced.  That night we treated ourselves to an excellent Mexican zinfandel, sopa de hongas (a mushroom soup with at least three varieties of the fungus in a rich, spicy broth), sopa de Poblano (corn, squash, onions, poblano pepper in clear chicken broth), camarones (shrimp the size of your fist) in a mezcal cream sauce, aromatic and smokey mole poblano smothering turkey, and the grande finale, a scoop of homemade vanilla peanut praline ice cream.  After a generous tip, we left spending under 700 pesos, less than $35 per person.

The next morning we woke at 6 a.m., put the finishing touches on our packing, and after a steaming hot cup of rich Mexican coffee in the hotel patio, we took the taxi to the in-city Estrella Roja bus station.  This station is NOT CAPU, the regional bus depot about twenty minutes from city center.  It is just a few minutes from the historic center of town where you can get a direct bus to the Mexico City airport in just under two hours for about $194 pesos per person (about $16USD).  The bus is pristine, fast, and economical.  They give you drinks and a sandwich for breakfast, and earphones to plug you into a first-run movie.  It drops you off at the brand new international terminal where it is easy to get a porter to take your bags to check-in.  It took us about 10 minutes to go through the check-in line, then another five minutes to go through security, and we were all done.  Easy.  Plenty of time for breakfast at the Restaurante California upstairs, too.

Talavera de la Reyna, Puebla Revisited January 2010

The ADO GL bus left Oaxaca at 7 a.m. and got us into Puebla by 11:20 a.m.   After checking into the Camino Real Puebla for the third time this year (www.hotels.com rate of $88 per night), I was on a Talavera ceramics buying mission for my sister.  We were leaving Mexico the next morning to return to North Carolina and I needed to make this partial day in Puebla count.  With order and photos literally in hand on my iPhone, I walked the few blocks to the Museo Amparo, corner 9 Oriente and 2 Sur  where Talavera de la Reyna (our favorite) has a small retail shop and was greeted by manager Sra. Letitia Perez Ramirez  (tel. 222 229 38 53).  They did not have the pattern that sister requested so I got directions and a map to the Cholula workshop about 25 minutes away.

Stepping out onto the sidewalk, I eyed two taxi cabs on the street.  One was a little shabby, had a dent or two, and the driver looked like he needed a hot shower.  The one directly behind was spit and polish clean and the driver, a middle age man, had a warm and friendly look to him, so I hailed him and got in.  This was Mauro Ramirez Cuhuetle, cellular # 044-2221568948.  Between my basic Spanish and Mauro’s bit of English (he spent five years in Nueva York some years back), we managed quite well and it was a great way for me to practice my Spanish.  For the next two and a half hours he drove me, cheerfully, to the Talavera de la Reyna factory store in Cholula, waited forty minutes for me while I did my shopping, and then drove me back to Puebla and the Uriarte talavera shop at Calle 4 Poniente 911, waited for me there and then deposited me and a two big shopping bags full of pottery at my hotel.  I gave him $320 pesos, about $26 USD, for which he was delighted.  I want to point out that I did this alone and felt not in the least bit at risk for my personal safety.

Directions to Talavera de la Reyna:  take the road to Cholula.  Just before getting to town, still on the main highway, there is a Domino’s Pizza, a pyramidical office building and a Pemex gas station.  This is Camino a la Carcana.  It is a narrow street between the Pemex and the office building.  Turn right and go half way down the block and the Talavera de la Reyna is on your left.  It is marked with a sign and there is a bouganvilla vine covering the high wall.  Ring the bell and they will let you in.

Talavera de la Reyna, Camino a la Carcana #2412, Recta a Cholula, Tel: (222) 225 40 58, www.talaveradelareyna.com.mx or email talavera_de_la_reyna@hotmail.com

If you pay with cash, there will be an eight percent discount.  They are incredible generous with their bubble packing materials whether they pack and ship or you carry the wrapped pieces with you.  You may also be lucky and there could be some seconds in the back room.  My recommendation is to hand select every piece that you want because there are variables in the intensity of paint color and precision of pattern execution from piece to piece since everything is handmade.  I also discovered that there are patterns there at the workshop that are not on the website, to it is worth the trip just to see the extensive collection.

My Soapbox: Beware of the Quality of Wool

First, let me say that my primary goal is to educate the consumer and to support weavers who invest in making the highest quality woven materials.  I applaud those who use 100% wool that is handspun, who choose the lengthier more time consuming method of using natural dyes to color their wool, and who refuse to pay high commissions to tour guides. It takes courage to take an ethical stand for quality.

Weavers have learned to cut corners and reduce the cost of raw materials in order to continue making the slim profits they need and deserve after paying hefty commissions (up to 50%) to the tour guides who bring them to Teotitlan from their hotels in Oaxaca City.  How do the people make enough money?  Volume sales from large tour groups is one way.  The other is to use less expensive synthetic, chemical dyes that cut the time in half, and the third way is to buy machine spun wool from commercial manufacturers.  Machine spun wool is thinner, prone to fiber breakdown over time, and less resilient to wear.  Because it has been processed, it contains less lanolin and will dry out.

The wool that comes from the Ocotlan mountain village of Chichicapam is handspun, thick, full of lanolin, resilient and strong.  Spinning wool by hand is an artform that is expensive because it is time-consuming and fewer women are willing or able to sit and spin for hours.  The irregularities of the thickness is what gives a high quality woven rug its texture and strength.

Master weavers in the village who recognize that their reputation for repeat business depends on making a fine woven rug will invest in using double strands of yarn to make a thicker quality product.  Of course, they will be using double the amount of yarn that is used in a typical rug which will cost them more.  They will often also incorporate mohair with the churro wool from Chichicapam that also adds strength and value.  Rugs made in this manner will last several lifetimes.

Today, Pantaleon Ruiz Martinez, a master weaver and noted oil painter, told me that he has used a washing machine and dryer when he lived in Oregon to clean his rugs that were made with pure wool and naturally dyed.  They didn’t shrink or discolor.  I would not recommend that, but this is his testimony to the strength and durability of a great rug!  He also lamented that many of the older women, including his mother, do not have the stamina to continue to hand spin wool.

Economic forces dictate that if there is not a demand for a product it will die out.  If China reproduces Zapotec rugs to bring prices down, and tradtional weavers trim costs to bring the prices down, then we become a culture driven by low cost rather than quality.  Please take the time to seek out small production weavers, people who do the work themselves and do not contract with other weavers, who adhere to quality standards and you will be doing your part for textile preservation.  You may pay a little more but you will be doing good in the world.

In Teotitlan del Valle, I recommend:

Federico Chavez Sosa, Francisco I Madero #55

Pantaleon Ruiz Martinez, Constituccion #12

Bii Dauu Cooperative, Calle de Iturbide

Arte y Seda, Avenida Benito Juarez #4

and the young weavers I noted in my blog post about the textile exhibition at the archeological museum of Monte Alban.

In Oaxaca, I recommend two shops next door to each other:

Galleria Fe y Lola, Av. Cinco de Mayo #408

El Nahual Gallery, Av. Cinco de Mayo #402

Archeological Museum at Monte Alban Exhibits Teotitlan Textiles

The Teotitlan del Valle community museum held a competition recently and invited talented young weavers who showed promise to submit their work to a jury of village leaders who are master weavers.  Many applied and only a few were selected to exhibit their work at the famed archeological site of Monte Alban where the museum there is featuring them in a special gallery.

Here are a few of my favorites, with the names and addresses where you can contact the artists directly to go and see their work.  Congratulate them, support them, and mention that you heard about them from this blog.

All these pieces were created using the natural color of sheep wool handspun from Chichicapam or handspun wool that is dyed with natural materials: cochineal, indigo, pericone, pecan leaves and shells, moss, pomegrantes, etc.  If you go and visit, encourage their use of natural dyes by purchasing only those rugs where the wool is dyed with “tintas naturales.”  The village leaders are encouraging young people to retain their cultural and weaving heritage, and also to promote the use of natural dyes in the weaving process.  This is important because chemical dyes cause lung health problems that often leads to cancer.

These are some of the young stars…

Antonio Ruiz Gonzalez, Av. Juarez #107, Teotitlan del Valle, rg_antonio@yahoo.com.mx, (951) 16 661 61

Zeferino Clemente Mendoza Bautista, Fiallo #34, Teotitlan del Valle, exlibrisanahuac@hotmail.com, (951) 52 441 41

Taurino Santiago Ruiz, Av. 2 de Abril #23, Teotitlan del Valle, (951) 52 442 32

Manuel Luis Sosa, Av. Hidalgo #80, Teotitlan del Valle, (951) 21 659 10

Santa Maria Atzompa Mercado de Artesanias

The central market in Atzompa is an artists cooperative full of ceramics of all different colors and styles that represent the work made by potters of this renown village.  It is about 20 minutes outside the city of Oaxaca very close to the archeological site of Monte Alban, so you can make a day of it (or a half-day) if you wish.  We only had time to visit the central market and didn’t visit my favorite potter Dolores Porras or explore some of the other independent and highly acclaimed potters of the village.  But what we saw at the central market was a range of deep green glazed and earth colored and brightly decorated hand painted ware, plus some very interesting clay sculptures, cut out vases, lamps, and other assorted dishware.  The quality ranged from poor to good, from primitive to quite sophisticated.  We spent about an hour there meandering the aisles to choose a few pieces to take home.  Prices were very modest.  I paid about $1.75 for a painted butterfly wall hanging, $7 for a string of hand sculpted clay animals playing musical instruments, and $4 for a natural clay angel playing a violin.