Monthly Archives: January 2010

Las Cuevitas 2010

We arrived late in the afternoon at that magic hour between daylight and sunset when everything is aglow.  Village people had been gathering on the mountainside behind the village since last night, many of them camping overnight.  There are some shallow caves there that are holy altars and each year a pilgrimage takes place to this spot where families gather, eat, take the rocks from the hillside and build miniature structures that represent the grand houses they wish for.  Everyone wants a house and everyone wants their house that is under construction to be complete.  This is what dreams are made of and the biggest dream for a Teotiteco family is to have a large casa where all the extended family of multi-generations can live together comfortably.

As we got in line to make our wishes at the altar, I saw this stunning, tall woman coming out of the small hillside chapel.  She was dressed like an angel in a gorgeous handwoven silk and wool sarape.  I got as close as I could to take photos of this incredible garment, which you will see in the gallery above.  Today, I found out that this was woven by my friend Tito Mendoza and the person wearing it was none other than Lila Downs.

This year, Federico and Stephen gathered rocks helped by Dolores, Janet and me, and completed the houses we have had under construction for two years as miniatures right before our eyes, complete with garden, roofs, courtyards, driveway and fencing surrounding the property.  Others sat alongside their completed rock houses, nibbling on sweets or drinking beer, or lighting bonfires and shooting off firecrackers.  By the time it was dark, the hillside was aglow with firelight, families gathered together, contemplating their dreams.

Alejandrina with Norma’s Coral Neck Collar

This is my friend Alejandrina Rios Sanchez who owns El Nahual Gallery on Av. Cinco de Mayo with her husband Tito Mendoza.  She is wearing the collar de cuello — the neck collar I designed and made.  It is my gift to her.  It is red coral beads each individually hand sewn onto a handmade fabric cord, with ties finished off with coral bead tips.  Doesn’t it look great on her?

The Mexican Sombrero Stereotype

Yesterday, I walked two miles to my friend Annie’s house located on a hillside outside the village center.  It was one o’clock in the afternoon and the walk took me over thirty minutes as I hugged the sides of buildings and sought shelter from the midday sun under the shade of hundred year-old trees lining the river bed path.   Every several hundred steps I needed to stop to catch my breath at this altitude of almost six thousand feet.  The sun beat down, strong and constant.  I wear a wide brimmed hat here that extends far down the back of my neck and  over my face.  As I walk, I imagine the photos and films I’ve seen of Mexican men curled up in a corner with sombrero pulled far down to cover faces.  I remember seeing only the curl of a mustache and a mouth in repose.  This is the stereotype of the sleepy or lazy Mexican that has been presented to us over the centuries.  Yet all I wanted to do yesterday afternoon was to seek the shelter of some shade and protect myself from this fierce sun that makes one so tired, hot, wet and saps energy.  So, as I walked and pulled the brim of my hat down to completely cover my face, tilting my head forward and keeping my eyes down to watch the path as I walked over cobblestone streets and rutted dirt roads, I wondered why we don’t understand the culture and environment of our hardworking Mexican neighbors who through sheer force of energy are able to create a vibrant life among the cactus and inhospitable soil.