Monthly Archives: November 2010

Byron Howes’ Oaxaca Day of the Dead Photos 2010

I’m giving you a link to some fantastic photos shot by Byron Howes who participated in our Oaxaca Day of the Photography Expedition 2010.  You’ll see that we covered a huge amount of territory in a very short (6 day) period.  We kept on our toes as we traveled the city by foot, went to the Abastos Market, Monte Alban, then the Xoxocotlan Cemetery (viejo y nuevo) all in one day, and ate really well!  Byron asks that you credit him if you use his photos.  Saludos, Norma

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nimdok/

Day of the Dead Abastos Market Crush and Shuffle

You might think this is a dance, but it’s really how to push your way through the huge Abastos Market crowds that come the morning of October 31 to buy all the things needed to decorate family graves and home altars.  This is not a market for the faint of heart.  It is serious stuff.  Huge.  It’s a market you can get lost in.  And, if you aren’t careful you could lose more than you came in with.  People press up against you to get by.  Children are underfoot.  There are some moments when you have to step out of the aisle to catch your breath.  To get there is no small feat either.  The traffic outside the market is bumper to bumper and there are no lanes.  Drivers push through the street to get their nose out in front of another vehicle just like the people who push through the crowds inside.

Shopping for fruit, Abastos Market, Oaxaca

You need a person with you who knows this market well to get you back to where you started.  You need a money pouch that is tucked tight close to your body.  If you are carrying a passport, keep it inside your shirt.  Don’t bring a lot of cash.  Keep your camera strap hung around your neck and your hand on your camera.  Leave all unnecessary equipment back at your hotel!   If this is all too daunting, then you might try going to the tamer Benito Juarez Market in Oaxaca instead.  It is within walking distance of the Zocalo!

Our Group with the Chavez Santiago Family at the Abastos Market, Oaxaca

Pan Muerto -- Day of the Dead Bread, Abastos Market, Oaxaca

The market is filled with edible treasures:  sugar skulls; bread baked with painted images of Jesus, Mary, the Virgin of Guadalupe; chocolate skeletons; and every household staple that one can imagine plus some.

Fruit Vendor, Abastos Market, Oaxaca

Fruit is used to decorate graves and altars.  In addition to oranges, limes, bananas, grapefruit and apples, there are papayas, mangoes, and many more exotic varieties than I am familiar with.  Children learn to sell by their mother’s side at a young age, packaging the purchases of shoppers and making change.

Spun and Molded Sugar Treats, Abastos Market, Oaxaca

Fish Vendor from the Isthmus, Abastos Market, Oaxaca

If you enter the market near the bus parking lot, you might find this woman from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec who prepares and sells the most delicious battered and deep fried fish.

Chicken Feet, Abastos Market, Oaxaca

Oaxaca Day of the Dead Photography: Best of the Week

Federico Chavez Sosa at his loom in Teotitlan del Valle

Federico Chavez Sosa and his son Eric Chavez Santiago demonstrated tapestry weaving techniques and using natural dyes at the family workshop in Teotitlan del Valle.  All photos by Norma Hawthorne copyright 2010, during Day of the Dead Photography Expedition 2010.  Now taking registrations for 2011.  Contact: normahawthorne@mac.com

Sugar cane in the Abastos Market, Oaxaca

Sugar cane is sold in the market for use at home altars.  The belief is that the sugar cane that frames the altar provides a passage for the dead to enter and take food from the altar to sustain themselves during their one-day visit back to earth.

Adding lime juice to cochineal dye

When lime juice is added to the smashed cochineal bug, a brilliant color of red is produced.  The stain is so intense that it took several scrubbings to get the hands clean.

Boy in White Face Masquerade

On October 30, children and their parents assemble on the plaza in front of Santo Domingo Church for a procession to mark the return of deceased children.

Pescaderia El Tiburon

Selling huachinango, a type of Pacific red-skinned fish, at the Abastos Market.

Renovations in Teotitlan del Valle

A new plaza in front the the Municipal Palace is being constructed as a gathering place for celebrations and for a new handcrafts market.  Here, one of the older adobe structures in getting a facelift.

Spinning Wheel in Teotitlan del Valle

This traditional wooden wheel is used to prepare bobbins for weaving.

16th Century Catholic Church Built Atop Zapotec Ruins, Teotitlan del Valle

Foreground and backdrop are pure Zapotec, framing the Catholic church built with the stones from the pre-Hispanic Zapotec temple.  In the background is Picacho, an ancient Zapotec mountaintop worship site.

Altar at San Filipe Neri, Oaxaca

Extraordinary wood carving embellished with gold leaf frame the Madonna in this remarkable Oaxaca church.  Don’t miss the Saturday morning church walking tour by Linda Martin; meet at 10 a.m. in front of the Catedral on the Zocalo.  Donation is 100 pesos each to support a non-profit for children.

Street vendors on the Zocalo sell cigarettes, candy, and handcrafts.  Women typically leave school at age 12 and must find a way to earn a living.

The Old Cemetery, Xoxocotlan--Day of the Dead

Family members gather by candlelight around the tombs of their loved ones.  A cherub marks this grave site, surrounded by cockscombs and marigolds.

The Munecas

At El Nahual Gallery on Avenida Cinco de Mayo handmade dolls rest against handbags woven by Tito Mendoza and his family members.

Xoxocotlan Red Irises

A wrought iron fence frames a grave site illuminated by candles and adorned with red irises.

Jesus The Protector

The Santa Cruz Xoxocotlan cemetery is an extravaganza of light, incense, and folk art.

Bus From Puebla to Mexico City Airport


We are on the Estrella Roja airporter bus that takes us directly to the international terminals One and Two at Benito Juarez Airport. We have been following the volcanoes for the past hour and a half. An impressive site with smoke. Idling from the cone of snow-capped El Popo.

This bus is luxe complete with free wifi and free drinks and snacks for 194 pesos which is about equivalent to $16 USD. Chrissy and I are both blogging so this two hour trip goes quickly. We fortified ourselves at the 4 Poniente bus terminal with complementary cafe americano.

The 4 Poniente bus station is about 7 minutes from the Puebla historic center and much more convenient than going the 20-30 minutes outside town to the larger TAPU station where we arrived from Oaxaca.

We bought the tickets to Mexico City as soon as we arrived at TAPU since seats fill quickly. Bus transport is the easiest and most cost effective way for locals to travel throughout Mexico. Muy facile y tranquilo.

Each state/region has it’s own bus line. So it is Estrella Roja that serves Puebla while ADO serves Oaxaca.

Most of the international flights leave from Terminal One in Mexico City. Continental/United departs from Terminal Two (same as AeroMexico). This bus makes stops at both terminals so travelers don’t have to take the airtrain. This makes it really easy to make a stopover to Puebla when you are going to Oaxaca. And it is much cheaper to fly round trip to MC and then take internal bus transport.

Buen viaje.

Bus From Puebla to Mexico City Airport

We are on the Estrella Roja airporter bus on our way to Benito Juarez Airport in Mexico City. It is very luxe with free wifi, a choice of beverages and snacks and an espresso machine to load us up in the airport before departure. On my left are the two snow-capped volcanoes. El Popo has a faint whoso of smoke coming out of his cone. These are both active. Quite a view. The cost of the two hour trip is 194 pesos which is about $16 USD. The important tip is to buy your ticket at TAPU bus station when you arrive in Puebla from Oaxaca and if you are staying downtown you want to leave from the 4 Poniente terminal which was about 7 minutes from our historic center hotel.