Monthly Archives: January 2012

Day of the Three Kings: Wise Men Bring Gifts to Children

For our photojournalism workshop we arranged a visit to a local family who have two young daughters, Paula Sarai, age six, and Mayra Belen age three.  We wanted to fully experience the joy of Day of the Three Kings (Dia de los Tres Reyes) through the perspective of the children.  Epiphany, held on January 6, is purely a children’s celebration and much more modest than the U.S. version of Christmas.

  

Here, Mexican children awaken early in the morning to find that the three wise men have delivered gifts under the Christmas tree while they are sleeping. Parents Pedro and Margarita tell us that it is traditional for girls to receive dolls or kitchen sets (cookware and dishes) and for boys to get trucks or bicycles.

  

It was late afternoon when we arrived at the family’s home; it was almost dusk.  After our warm welcome into the interior courtyard of the home, we  join the family around an elaborate wrought-iron table and chairs.  The children come to greet each of us with extended hands, excited to show us their gifts.

Then, Pedro asked us if we know about the special story of the house. No, we said. And he retells the story his grandfather told him 13 years ago:

Many years ago an old man was selling an image of Christ, going door to door in the village of Teotitlan del Valle.  Then, this was primarily a farming community and only the women were home during the day when the men were in the fields.  One woman was interested but said she needed to ask her husband if she could buy the image.  She asked the vendor to return.  When the husband came back from the fields, the man was nowhere to be seen and the husband asked where he was.  Only the crucifix was there leaning against a paddock.  The man and woman put the image inside the house.  They didn’t know if the vendor would return to collect the pesos he was asking for the image or to take the image back.  The vendor never returned.

  

Ever since, the family has looked after the image of Christ.  They thought, maybe they should return it to the church and they took it there and left it.  But the next day, there it was back in their house.  Again, they returned the image to church. And again, the image reappeared in their home. The image grew larger and then they couldn’t get it through the doorway.  So there it stays.  Now, it is behind a glass case, protected.  An altar is now before it and the place where it rests has become a small chapel where people come to pray and bring flowers.

Each year on May 3, the priest arrives to give mass and each year on this day the family changes the clothes of the Christ.  Three years ago, an anthropologist came from Mexico City, authenticated the statue and estimated its age to be 350 years old.  The grandfather is now age 95 and the figure has been here in this house during his entire lifetime.

Do you believe? asked the Grandmother Magdalena. I believe that God is everywhere, she says. We nod in respect.

After our visit to the altar, we gathered around the family dining table to share a blessing of the season.  Margarita passed homemade tostaditos (little tostados) of black beans, lettuce and queso fresco.

Paula and Mayra each take turns cutting the Rosca de Reyes.  Margarita serves traditional Oaxacan hot chocolate (hot chocolate made with water, not milk).  The girls quietly return their gifts, neatly repacked, under the tree.

  

Afterward, we reflected upon the experience of family cohesiveness, the cultural experiences we shared, our ability to take part in holiday celebrations, and the memories of our connection to people that will stay with us forever.

 

Rosca de Reyes for Day of the Three Kings in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca

From January 4 to 7, the bakers in the village turn their attention to creating roscas de reyes, a traditional sweet bread adorned with conchas, candied figs, nopal cactus and red pepper strips.  For three or four days, there will be no other bread to buy.  We get our fill of this luscious cake-like treat.

Eloisa's rich, yeasty Rosca de Reyes

We are lucky.  Tenemos muchos milagros.  At Las Granadas Bed & Breakfast, Eloisa bakes Rosca de Reyes in her outdoor traditional orno or adobe oven. The oval or round loaves are sweetened, yeasty egg bread.

We see them piled high in the backs of flatbed trucks on their way to the village market.  For three or four days there will be no other type of bread for sale.  We get our fill of this luscious treat.

 

Find the tiny white plastic baby Jesus stuffed inside (each baker determines how many s/he will put in each loaf), and you will have the honor of  providing tamales and atolé for your entire family on Dia de la Candelaria on February 2,  40 days after the birth of Jesus. [My observation: In Mexico, the magic number seems to be 40.  Forty is the gestation time in weeks for women to have a “normal” birth.  Traditionally, women stay sequestered for 40 days after birth.  Moses and his people wandered the desert for 40 years.]

Recipe for Rosca de Reyes from Inside Mexico!  or try any egg bread recipe but only let it rise once.  Form the loaf into a circle or oblong shape.  Decorate with candied fruits and the concha (the little sugar buns that sit atop the rosca).  Don’t forget to stuff it with the little plastic Jesus figure.  If you can’t get that, then the fava bean used traditionally before plastic figures were available, will definitely suffice.

Buen Provecho!

We had ours with fresh steamed vegetables: green beans, choyote squash, carrots, along with quesadillas and toasted garbanzo bean soup, washed down with our favorite beer.

Here and There in Oaxaca: How to Contact Me

Being based in the village of Teotitlan del Valle is wonderful and it has its technology challenges — mostly that my iPhone AT&T/Telcel cell phone service is not reliable.  Sometimes I have to go on the roof.  Sometimes the phone will ring and I will answer it and no one is there.  Nunca.  Nada.  There is voicemail but I am unable to get access to it.  Es lo es que es.  As my husband says, It is what it is.

I do have connection to WiFi and 3G — which is always reliable!

So, if you are trying to reach me to discuss whether you wish to attend a workshop or retreat and you want to ask questions, it’s best that you contact me by email:

oaxacaculture@me.com

We can then set up a time that’s good for both of us to connect via Skype.  My Skype name is oaxacaculture.  It would be best to start with the email, ask me the questions you have there, and then I can prepare for a scheduled phone call with you by talking with the workshop instructor first if necessary.

Many thanks for your understanding.  Such is life in Mexico, terrific as it is!  Saludos,

Norma Hawthorne, Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC

 

Potter of Santa Maria Atzompa: Irma Claudia Garcia Blanco

The daughter of Teodora Blanco squats on her knees at the small potter’s wheel as if in prayer at an altar holding an offering.  Her legs are tucked neatly under her.  She is dressed in embroidered white cotton, white on white.  Behind her is a gray stucco wall.  She is framed in the expanse of memory.

The earth gives forth blessings: tamales to eat, atolé to drink, clay for the vessels that hold them.  A distant village, San Lorenzo Cacaotepec, is ancient source.  Then, clay was hauled by burro.  Now, husband Francisco drives the truck. The work is always heavy: dig the hard substance from pits deep in the earth.

The yield is terra-cotta red or deep gray like rain clouds or taupe like Isthmus sand.  The recipe is historic: Mix together clay and water. Use a long pine paddle hewn from a mountain log. Assure the consistency is pliable, exact.  Scoop it into smaller portions from which to create shape, form, structure.

Irma Claudia Garcia Blanco holds a portion of clay the color of steel. It is malleable and she presses her finger deep into its center.

 

 

She holds it like an infant, tender yet firm.  She caresses the clay body and a figure emerges.

The daughter of Teodora Blanco sets the cone figure aside and begins to roll a clay cigarette to shape one arm, then the other.

Her fingers are nimble.  Perhaps she will add an animal or anthropomorphic decoration:  bird, eagle, snake, lightning.  A chicken playing a fiddle!  A dancing cow!

 In the corner of the courtyard Tia guards the cooking pot filled with softening corn husks that will embrace fiesta tamales.

The daughter of Teodora Blanco has six daughters and one son. She remembers this as she works:  After childbirth the midwife covers her with a cloak of orange leaves, fragrant and soft, so her milk will come in sweeter.

Her husband takes the birthing water and discards it far from the house.  This is his role.  On the third day, her first sip will be clear chicken broth.  For 40 days, she will be confined to bed with the infant, drinking only unsweetened atolé to escape death.  This is mystical, in the old traditions, says Irma Claudia, as she works the clay that becomes a woman holding two chickens.

Lulu, the youngest daughter still at home, stands to the side.  She is quick with math and checks the transactions.

Years before a Rockefeller came here and anointed Teodora Blanco with fame.  Centuries before, her antecedents fashioned pots, fired in deep pits with wood ignited by dung.  This was their tribute to Monte Alban rulers who lived closer to god, high above Atzompa.  The vessels and figures offerings to embellish tables and tombs.

Now, the function is obscure.  We call this sculpture and decorate our homes, offices, gardens. The potter, daughter of generations, sits before her wheel.  It is metal, not clay.  The currency is pesos, not tribute.  The kiln is concrete, not adobe.  The fuel is still wood.

 

 

 

 

 

Irma Claudia signs her name for tourists, not royalty.  The beauty endures.

      

Irma Claudia Garcia Blanco Artesanias, Av. Juårez, #302, Santa Marîa Atzompa, Oaxaca, Mexico. (951) 558-9286.

Upcoming workshops:  Photography/Collage/Painting, Portrait Photography, Women’s Creative Writing + Yoga Retreat.

As mentioned in The Barra de Navidad Daily.

Monte Alban: Closer to the Gods

Atop the Zapotec world and about 15 minutes from the historic center of Oaxaca is the great Meso-american archeological site of Monte Alban, named by the Spaniards after siting the mountaintop covered with the blooms of the white morning-glory tree (left photo below).

  

The Spanish Conquistadores named Oaxaca for the  plant, called in Nahuatl huaxyacac, which they could not pronounce (pictured above right).  The pods contain edible green seeds used to flavor soups and stews.  Today, we see them nondescriptly bundled and sold in local and regional markets rarely remembering the important origins of this humble pod.

The Zapotecs of Monte Alban believed that the higher they built, the closer they would be to their gods to whom they prayed for rain and corn, for protection from earthquakes, for sun to yield more crops, and for other essentials of daily life.  Here, the sun, moon and stars determined life and its future.  The observatory, the geometry of the buildings, the size of the plaza were all determined by the solar calendar. The record of conquests were carved in the ancient rock — named swimmers and dancers by archeologists.

  

You can read much more about Monte Alban in archeological and history books or visit the Field Museum of Natural History in Chicago where Monte Alban is cited among the great civilizations for its advanced organizational and government structure.

  

Sacred elements are carved into the stone.  The tiny steps were designed to hold the colored plaster that covered the temples, observatory and ball court.  Here is where the elite lived, closer to god, their ears pierced with plugs and their foreheads sloped as infants to signify their stature.  There were no human sacrifices at Monte Alban, according to our knowledgeable guide Pablo Gutierrez Marsh, only the offering of animals.

According to the Zapotec calendar, each day begins at noon.  The writing system is pictographic and has not yet been deciphered.  The plaza, which could hold 13,000 people, is flanked by two tall pyramids that visitors are allowed to climb.  They each lead to a high plaza where you can get a 360 degree view of the Oaxaca valley below.

  

During the Monte Alban I and Monte Alban II periods, farmers lived below and provided food for the ruling class who lived on the high terraces.  Ornamented pottery vessels were crafted in the village of Atzompa at the foot of Monte Alban.  Ceramics are still made there today.

I managed to climb the steep steps to the top of both temples flanking each end of the plaza.  At the top, humans appeared as if in miniature and the magnificence of place was astounding.  At the time when Monte Alban was first inhabited and construction began, around 700 A.D., there were no wheels or draught animals here. Only human labor carried huge slabs of stone up the mountain from the valley below.  Our group spent over two hours here capturing a sense of place.  The day was clear, sunny and brisk.  Perfect for climbing and walking.  I was on top of the world and so were our workshop participants!

Pablo, Deanna, Carey, June and Carole at Monte Alban