Tag Archives: Mexico

Photo Workshop Day 3: Luvia’s Grandmother +

We met at Luvia’s photography studio at 9:30 a.m. Before that, most of us returned to the village market to take more pictures. The early morning light here is illuminating. The light plays with shadows and texture; there is so much to capture the eye. This is a daily market in Teotitlan del Valle, one of the few remaining here in indigenous culture. During Dia de los Muertos, as families buy flowers, bread, chocolate, fruit, candles to decorate graves and home altars, the market is even more resplendent.

At the studio, we send photos to Luvia’s computer and then have a look-see with a discussion about each of our works taken the day before and this morning. We were frantically editing the ones from this morning to get these ready to send. We talked about composition, cropping, lighting, finding the details, getting closer to our subjects than many of us are comfortable with. It’s an exercise in asking permission to photograph and then stepping into a space that is tighter than usual.

We began to see our world differently and with more definition.

We especially enjoyed our visit to the home of Luvia’s grandmother. She is age 78. Many women age faster here, especially the older generation who have borne and raised many children, and did everything by hand including: shucking corn from the cob, washing laundry and dishes, carrying water, preparing meals three times a day, and feeding the farm animals — chickens, goats, turkeys, cows. Each morning they walked to the market and home again throughout their lives where the daily social contact there was so important. Many ducked into the local convenience store to sip mezcal together and catch up on gossip.

Then it was home again to do everything necessary to keep an extended-family household going.

We were so happy this workshop fit into Luvia’s schedule. Her work has been featured in The New Yorker and Vogue magazines, and she has had exhibitions in the USA and Europe. Fujifilm and Leica awarded her grants as a rising star, and she will be going to New York to participate in an arts residency in 2025. Both Luvia and I agree: we do not want to hold workshops during Day of the Dead — November 1 and November 2. We want this to be quiet time with our families to reflect on meaning, loss, life and death, and to remember our loved ones.

Here are some of the photos I took that day in the market and with Luvia’s grandmother:

And here is my Day Of the Dead Altar to remember my parents. I call it my Memory Altar. It looks very much the same year after year, which is very reassuring.

Oaxaca Photo Workshop: Day One, Day of the Dead

We gathered in photographer Luvia Lazo Gutierrez’s studio this morning at 9:30 a.m. to start our three-day photography workshop in Teotitlan del Valle. We are here to explore the Day of the Dead visual landscape of the village, gain creative insights and technical skills, and see the world through a more defined lens. I found myself noticing more details and finding the particularities of an object rather than stepping back to see the bigger picture.

This year, I sold a photograph to Scholastic Magazine and to a few others over the years. However, I’m not a professional. I always consider myself open to learning something new and to have my work (in whatever medium) evaluated with constructive feedback from others. That’s why I’m participating. Plus, it’s an inspiration and fun to walk around the village with Luvia, who was born and raised here. She has a lot of knowledge and is an excellent teacher. We trailed her like ducklings.

Apple flew Luvia to Cupertino recently to participate in the launch of the iPhone 16. They gave her a new phone (which behaves more like a point-and-shoot camera) plus a computer. At age 34, she is a success story. Her work has been featured in the New Yorker Magazine. She is recognized as an up-and-coming artist by Leica and Fujifilm, and she was selected for a five-month artist residency next year in New York. I’ve known Luvia since she was age 18, when she was first starting out in photography. She worked with me then to help organize Oaxaca programs taught by faculty from the Duke University Center for Documentary Studies. I’m proud to think I had a little something to do with getting her started.

Being part of a small group is very supportive and energizing. We also learn from each other, and while we notice the same things, we have different points of view. That can be very instructive as we share our work with each other.

After visiting the village market this morning and the cemetery this afternoon, we were asked to create a personal narrative through the photographs we will take over these three days. Luvia encourages us to tell a story to honor someone we love who has passed since we are here for Day of the Dead. She describes using photos to write a letter to a loved one rather than words. This could include images of favorite food and drink, flowers, colors. She says that when you learn to tell a story you have a tool for photography. With photography, your subconscious is always working.

Luvia also asks us not to be attached to every photograph we take and experiment. She suggests that we get closer, change angles, and choose a different perspective by photographing from below or above a subject. Photography can be conceptual rather than literal. She showed us photos of cactus leaves, for example, that looked like sculpture because they were close-ups and the eye saw the smooth skin of a corner of a plant rather than the whole.

If we want to take a photo of a person, Luvia reminded us to ask permission first: Puedo a tomar su foto?

Tomorrow, we plan to be at the market very early to capture the morning light, and then visit families where we will take portraits.

Here are a few of my favorite shots from today. I am using my iPhone. Others are using DSLR and mirrorless cameras.

For the black-and-white photos, I use an App called TinType. I like it because it plays with depth of field and shadows.

Oaxaca Street Life and Re-Entry

On Monday, despite bumping around a bit in the sky atop the last remnants of a tropical storm that painted a picturesque landscape of layered clouds as we came in for a landing, I arrived in Oaxaca. Re-entry was easy. I’m always grateful to pick up my luggage from the conveyor belt after passing through immigration, and then hit the button for customs. Hit a green button and you are waived through. Hit a red button and you are pulled aside to have your luggage inspected. It’s the luck of the draw.

We walked to dinner at Sur a Norte, an always reliable favorite cafe bar that serves up very good food at a fair price. You can almost reach out and touch Santo Domingo church, located just across the cobblestone road. We recommend the tacos (any flavor will do).

Over the next two days in the city, I walked ten to twelve thousand steps each day. I covered a lot of territory. What I noticed was the proliferation of mezcal bars and tasting rooms. There is, it seems, one on every street corner, plus another one or two mid-block. No one has to leave Oaxaca thirsty. After all, we are billed as the mezcal capital of the world. Most don’t open until late afternoon, but that won’t stop a serious drinker from finding an open watering hole.

My first destination on Tuesday morning, after breakfast with Carol, Elsa and Eric at Yegole in Jalatlaco (more about this later), I headed to my favorite haberdashery, Alberle Hats on Calle Armenta y Lopez, southeast of the Zocalo. This time, instead of my usual beaver felted hat (half the cost of any in the USA), I wanted a handwoven straw hat from Michoacan. It’s still warm and sunny here, despite the fact that Taos, New Mexico, weather is cooling down to what my body calls almost frigid. Nightime lows there are thirty-six degrees. Brrrr.

The breakfast at Yegole was so delicious and satisfying — a gluten-free house-made toasted bagel slathered in bacon, cheese, grilled onions, and avocado — that I wanted another opportunity the following morning to indulge in chilaquiles with green salsa with an over-easy egg and well-cooked bacon on the side. Oh, I forgot to mention that on both days I ordered a banana-chocolate smoothie that was like eating dessert. Why not?

We managed to snag a lunch table later in the afternoon at Los Danzantes, by far my favorite Oaxaca restaurant. It is almost impossible to get in now, and I don’t think I’ve dined there in over two years. Don’t miss the coconut coated giant shrimp. I had two vegetable dishes, one a roasted cauliflower and the other roasted carrots floating on a beet puree. The best dessert is the goat cheese flan and we indulged.

While I’m not shopping for much, I did a loop through Miniso. This is a Chinese-Japanese owned variety store that features an excellent assortment of household items, cosmetics, toys, tech gizmos, stationery, and doo-dads. There is always something there that I need and want!

Then, it was off to Xiguela organic food store in Jalatlaco to stock up on lettuce (pre-washed and sanitized), zucchini, tomatoes, Manchego cheese, and avocados. Here in Oaxaca, the avocados are about ten cents each. We eat a lot of them. They were out of miso soup, so I’m going to need to go scouting.

It’s a week before Dia de los Muertos. The city is beginning to decorate and the state-sponsored tianguis — the outdoor shopping mall housed under tents near Santo Domingo Church — are being erected. The decor continues to be over the top exciting and each year there is a surprise that hangs over the main walking street, Andador Macedonio Alcala.

We can fit one more person into our October 30, Day of the Dead Tour, and we can take two more in our Teotitlan photography workshop from October 27 to 29 with Luvia Lazo. If you are in Oaxaca now, consider joining us.

Don’t forget to order:

Returning to Oaxaca for Day of the Dead

Day of the Dead in Oaxaca is a magical experience, especially if you spend it in the villages. This December will mark my twentieth year of being there. I’m thinking about how to celebrate and involve you in the celebration! All ideas and suggestions are welcome. In 2007 i began writing this blog, so another celebration will come up in two years. We need to consider many ways we can celebrate this year as contentious politics feel so overwhelming. (I voted today, BTW).

It’s always hard getting ready to leave and figure out what to pack. I packed and repacked my luggage several times today. I imagine I will continue to edit it so I can carry one medium-size suitcase. I leave Taos on Saturday and will spend two nights with my son and daughter-in-law in Albuquerque before flying south on Monday. It’s not too soon. A cold front came in yesterday, the skies are cloudy and overcast and rain is coming that could turn to snow flurries. This is what happens here in mid-October. It’s Mother Nature helping us get ready for winter. An extra bag is filled with winter outerwear; I’ll leave it behind to have it when I get back in mid-November in time for the holidays.

This year Muertos will be extra-special. My photographer friend Luvia Lazo will be leading a three-day workshop photo experience in Teotitlan del Valle from October 27 to October 29. I’m going to participate. Luvia explains that each of us will create a small photography project with a narrative — telling a story through photographs. We will cover basic technical concepts like ISO, aperture and shutter speed, adapting the session to those of us who use iPhones. We will practice taking portraits, do field photography practice by visiting the homes of local people, and iconic sites around the village. Luvia will focus on capturing light and shadow, as well as surreal environments. Each day, participants will present their photographs and receive constructive feedback.

If this is something that interests you, please send me an email. We have space for two more people!

The following day, Eric Chavez Santiago is leading a group of 15 people (we have room for one more person) to explore Dia de los Muertos through the eyes of artisans. For this Day of the Dead Bucket List Tour, the group will visit the market, make an altar, participate in an indigo dye workshop, have a traditional lunch with a local family, and better understand how a traditional Oaxaca village celebrates the memory of her ancestors through conversation and a unique experience.

Then, after Muertos is over, I’ll be taking the dogs for a walk in the campo, catching up with friends, and talking with rug designer/importer Scott Roth about writing his memoir about Oaxaca life in the 1970s when he first came as a young man from Southern California. Scott was one of the first people to transform woven textiles known as serapes and blankets into floor rugs to meet the demand for Santa Fe Style. By the way, I’m recovering from spinal fusion surgery very well and intend to do a lot of walking (with the aid of two hiking poles).

I hope you continue to read the blog and think about when you will come to Oaxaca to experience the richness of culture — and if you hve been before, think about when you will return.

Sending all best wishes, Norma

Returning to Oaxaca, but first Japan

Good morning from Denver. I’ve got my ticket to Oaxaca for Day of the Dead, arriving on October 21 and staying for three weeks. Like many of you, I like to be home with my family for the winter holidays. I plan to participate in the Teotitlan del Valle photography workshop led by Luvia Lazo. She is an award-winning photographer, recognized in The New Yorker Magazine and Vogue for her interpretation of village life. I’m excited because I’ve known Luvia since she was a very young woman who was just getting started. She has a keen eye that notices the juxtapositions of composition and I’m confident that she will teach us how to see people and place in different and innovative ways. BTW, you don’t have to be a photographer to participate. Our only requirement is curiosity!

Today is my last appointment with my surgeon who performed the spinal fusion surgery. I’m hoping for a clean bill of health on the road to recovery. I’ll keep you posted about the outcomes. This is one reason I haven’t been writing much. The surgery and related recuperation was much more intense than I ever expected and I’ve been completely focused on the process of getting better in time for my departure to Japan for two weeks on Friday, September 6.

I’m excited. Japan has become one of my favorite countries and this will be my second visit. I’m traveling with friends who have been there nine times! As I write, they are on a six-day hike through geological formations along the southern coast. They are covering ten miles a day. I can now manage two miles walking at a slow pace with two hiking poles for support!

This is going to be a research trip for me. Eric and I are planning Japanese Folk Art and Textile Tour for Oaxaca Cultural Navigator in late October 2025, if all things align. We will focus on pottery, indigo dyeing, temple markets, sashiko embroidery stitching, and exploring food and culture. We are working with our friend Nancy Craft, Conde-Nast Japan Travel Expert, to assist us in building an itinerary and securing all the logistics to make a trip like this possible.

My Question: Would you like me to report on what I discovered on this Japan trip that starts Friday with intermittent blog posts? Would you be interested in this?

As ever, thanks for reading. All my best, Norma

This is a Sashiko embroidered hat made by Keiku in Takayama, Gifu Prefecture, in the Hida region of central Japan. She works on indigo dyed cloth, much of which is vintage. I will visit her with the hope that we can include a hands-on experience for our October 2025 tour. I’m meeting her on the east side of the Red Bridge and she will take us to her home in the historic district, where she has her studio. It’s been a back-and-forth arranging this private visit. Keiku doesn’t speak English and I’ve been communicating with her son Atsushi, who lives in the USA with the help of my friend Svetlana, a textile installation artist.

If you want to join this tour, we will notify you with more details when we have them. Please send me an email to let me know you are interested.