Aguacatenango is a Chiapas Maya village about an hour-and-a-half from San Cristobal de Las Casas. The altitude is lower and temperatures warmer. The women there embroider exquisite natural cotton blouses, and we found the best of the best. Her name is Francisca, and along with her family members, she creates completely made-by-hand blouses — there are no sewing machines!
For photos and village story, Click Here!
Usually, we bring Chiapas Textile Tour travelers to Aguacatenango to meet Francisca, but not this year! As covid-19 rages unchecked in Mexico and the USA, you know we have cancelled all our programs until late 2021. Artisan villages throughout Mexico are hard hit economically. There is no tourism to help sustain even the most talented. That’s why I contacted Francisca a few months ago to see how we could help by bringing this workmanship to us.
This time, I asked for larger sizes and specified the dimensions, along with the color-ways. This is a custom order that you will not find anywhere else!
12 pieces are available for sale. Limited selection.
- Size XL — Bodice is 15″ wide, sleeve is 23″ long, blouse is 24″ long from shoulder to hem — 4 pieces
- Size L — Bodice is 14″ wide, sleeve is 22″ long, blouse is 24″ long from shoulder to hem — 4 pieces
- Size M — Bodice is 12″ wide, blouse is 24″ long from shoulder to hem — 3 pieces
- Size S — Bodice is 10″ wide, sleeve is 21″ long, blouse is 22″ long from shoulder to hem — 1 piece
To Buy: Please email me normahawthorne@mac.com with your name, mailing address and item number. I will mark it SOLD, send you a PayPal link to purchase and add $12 for cost of mailing. Please DO NOT SELECT buying goods or services–so we don’t pay commissions. We also accept Venmo and I can send you a Square invoice (+3% fee) if you don’t use PayPal.
Extra-Large Selection–4 available — 15″ wide bodice (A):
- SOLD. 1. Blue, long sleeve XL, $140
- SOLD. 2. Blue, long sleeve XL, $140
- SOLD. 3. Red, long sleeve XL, $140
- SOLD. 4. Red, long sleeve, XL, $140
Large Selection–4 available — 14″ wide bodice (A):
- SOLD. 5. Large, Red, $120
- SOLD. 6. Large Blue, $120
- 7. Large Blue, $120
- 8. Large Blue, $120
Size Medium Selection–3 available — 12″ wide bodice (A):
- 9. Beige, short sleeve Medium, $120
- 10. Beige, short sleeve, Medium, $120
- 11. Beige, short sleeve, Medium, $120
Size Small Selection–1 available — 10″ wide bodice (A):
- 12. Beige long sleeve, Small, $120
Textile Care: Dry clean or wash by hand. To wash, turn garment inside out. Immerse in cold water using a mild soap such as Fels Naptha or baby shampoo. Don’t use Woolite — it leeches color. Gently massage the cloth. Squeeze and roll in a towel to absorb excess water. Hang to dry. Use medium steam heat to iron if needed.
To Buy: Please email me normahawthorne@mac.com with your name, mailing address and item number. I will mark it SOLD, send you a PayPal link to purchase and add $12 for cost of mailing. Please DO NOT SELECT buying goods or services — so we don’t pay commissions. We also accept Venmo and I can send you a Square invoice (+3% fee) if you don’t use PayPal.
Chiapas Textile Study Tour Snapshot: Saturday Serendipity in Aguacatenango
The idea was to drive to Aguacatenango which is about thirty minutes beyond the pottery village of Amantenango del Valle. We were a good hour or so beyond San Cristobal de Las Casas. Few tourists come in this direction.
The church at Aguacatenango, Venustiano Carranza
The idea was to pull up at the church, park the van, gather under the big tree and wait. Perhaps some of the village women would show up with their beautiful embroidered blouses to sell.
Join us for the 2019 Chiapas Textile Study Tour.
I did this with our group last year. I hoped the serendipity would repeat. It was fun meeting local women whose skillful sewing resulted in blouses covered in intricate needlework. Within five minutes, perhaps thirty or forty women clustered around us. Word spreads fast in a small pueblo.
A gathering of women embroiderers. Photo by Carol Lynne Estes
This year was a special treat. Not only was it a glorious day, the workmanship was especially fine.
A particularly fine blouse with finished seams, all hand-stitched
Our only problem was that most of the blouses were too small. One woman insisted that her blouse was a large and when I said it was too small for me. We went back and forth about this a couple of times.
Lanita snags this amazing blouse covered in French knots.
Finally, I thanked her, complimented her work, and told her it might be size large for women in the village, but it was a size small for us gringas. I’m tall here and I’m a chaparrita!
We also met and bought from Catalina Juarez Hernandez who has participated in the Feria Maestros del Arte at Lake Chapala.
We did our best to try on and buy. Most things did not fit. Photo by C.L. Estes
Then, Cynthia discovered Francisca Hernandez, one of the better embroiderers. Francisco invited Cynthia to visit her mother’s house. We have larger sizes there, she said. Cynthia came over and said, Can we do this? I said, Yes. How far is it, I asked. Only three blocks, she said. Sure, why not?
An embroiderer blouse making with a bundle to show us.
We were hooked.
Down the street three blocks to larger sizes
Eight women from the USA and Canada followed Francisca down empty streets in midday. We passed a house with corn drying on the roof. We passed women and children peeking out of doorways. Behind us trailed women and girls from the village interest in what we were up to.
Close up of corn drying on the rooftop
These were long blocks.
We entered a humble home after climbing through a stick and wood fence where Francisca’s mother and father welcomed us. We walked across an uneven stone path.
Francisca Hernandez demonstrates embroidery techniques
Out came the larger embroidered blouses. We tried them on, standing next to bags stacked four high, fill with corn cobs. The space was dark and narrow, illuminated by one raw bulb. The French seams were perfect, all hand-stitched, finished perfectly.
Out came the larger sizes, each one equally as beautiful
We formed a ring around Francisca and her mom. A ring of village women, two deep, looked on.
Francisca’s mom. Note the exquisite bodice work.
Francisca gave us a demonstration of how she makes French knots. Nudos de francesa. Catherine, president of her embroidery guild, was mesmerized since the technique was different and equally as beautiful. I promised to return in two weeks with our next group.
Bagged corn cobs. Photo by Carol Lynne Estes
Being open to serendipity provided us with a memorable experience and a connection none of us will forget.
Join us for the 2019 Chiapas Textile Study Tour: Deep into the Maya World
Catherine checks the sleeve length to see if this one fits.
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Posted in Clothing Design, Cultural Commentary, Oaxaca Mexico art and culture, Travel & Tourism, Workshops and Retreats
Tagged Aguacatenango, blouses, Chiapas, Embroidery, Mexico, San Cristobal de las Casas, study tour, textiles, travel