Tag Archives: Dance of the Feather

Dance of the Feather Grand Finale and Rain

I’m finally settled into Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, after a whirlwind two days in Mexico City and a six-hour bus ride south.  It’s raining here and has done so for days. Evenings are chilly enough for a blanket. The afternoon sky is filled with dramatic shades of gray cumulus clouds punctuated with intermittent sunlight. The river is flowing, the land is green, and the Dance of the Feather just ended, an annual village ritual celebrated since before the Spanish conquest and adapted with a new story line.  Rain or shine, the dance continues.

This year the Danzantes (the dancers), who were born in Teotitlan del Valle, but have lived in California since they were young, returned as a group to make their three-year commitment to honor their Zapotec heritage.

Read Meagan and Ben’s blog post about Dance of the Feather and their experiences at the public health clinic!

Ben Cook and Meagan Parsons, the two physician assistant students who are volunteering this month at the Teotitlan del Valle public health clinic, immersed themselves in the culture of the Dance of the Feather.  They wrote a post about it on their blog, Ben and Meagan’s Teotitlan del Valle adventures 2013, and included lots of photos to give you a sense of what it’s like to be here.

Plus, there’s some great pictures of the always alluring Sunday Tlacolula market, which they went to with Deborah Morris, MD, PA-C, their academic coordinator.

Today, Debbie and I got together in the courtyard, dodging drizzle and hiding from the sun, to make felted wool cloth which we cut and sewed into flower pins. We arrived at Las Granadas B&B in time for a simple dinner of quesadillas, brown rice, and black beans topped with Magdalena’s amazing smokey salsa de chile pasillo, just as the rain clouds opened up with a deluge at six thirty this evening. The lightening display was dramatic.  Thunder still roars.

Here’s a shot Debbie took of the rain coming over the mountains from the village of Benito Juarez.

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One of the most popular Teotitlan del Valle rug patterns is called Mountains and Rain!  We know why.

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Cultural Dialogs: Dance of the Feather in Teotitlan del Valle

On Wednesday night this week, the San Pablo Academic and Cultural Center hosted the first in a series of community dialogs about indigenous life in Oaxaca.   The restored chapel was filled to standing room only with Teotitecos and friends who came to hear a panel discussion introducing the new book, La Danza de la Pluma en Teotitlån del Valle written by Jorge Hernandez-Diaz, a cultural anthropologist at the state Benito Juarez Autonomous University of Oaxaca.

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In addition to Professor Hernandez-Diaz, panelists included Uriel Santiago, one of the 2007-2009 group of dancers who made a promise and commitment to God, their church, community and culture by learning and performing this ancient tradition for a period of three years.   Uriel first welcomed guests in Zapotec then moved into Spanish.  Years ago Uriel explained to me that the Dance of the Feather is not a folkloric event designed to entertain people.  It is a serious expression of Zapotec identity and cultural continuity.  We made a documentary film about his experience in 2008 which you can see on YouTube.

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The book, published in Spanish by the Oaxaca Secretary of Culture and Arts, with support from the Alfredo Harp Helu Foundation and the Office of the Governor of Oaxaca, offers three possible explanations about the origins of the dance, how it is interpreted in Teotitlan del Valle, other Oaxaca villages where the dance is an integral part of annual celebration, the rituals and traditions associated with the dance, and how the dance is organized and who can participate, plus lots more.  The professor explains in his book that the dance is expressed with variations in many Mexican states, too.

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Each year in Teotitlan del Valle beginning in early July and lasting for about a week, the Dance of the Feather is performed in the church courtyard.  Every three years the group changes and is organized/trained by a different leader.  The 2007-2009 maestro was Don Antonio Ruiz.  The book recognizes all the members of this particular group by name and the role they danced–Moctezuma, the indigenous kings who succumbed to the conquest, and Malinche/Doña Marina.

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Some of the group members are cousins.  Since the time of the dance, many of them have married and had children.  They have become doctors, educators and skilled weavers.  They remain close, committed to each other and their community, treasuring the time they devoted to transmitting their cultural heritage and ensuring continuity.

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Oaxaca Photography Workshop: Market Towns + Artisan Villages Summer 2012

TWO SPACES LEFT!   9 Days- 8 Nights,  June 29 –  July 7, 2012

    

Discover how to better know and use your digital camera in daily learning sessions.  Then, apply what you learn “on location” to capture your Oaxaca, Mexico travel adventure.  The program focuses on the use of  digital SLR photography to capture, record and document indigenous life, festivals, markets, folk art and artisans, landscapes, and people.  This is cultural immersion at its best! Featuring Dance of the Feather–Danza de la Pluma.

  

You will join art photographers Tom and Sam Robbins, our husband-wife team from Columbus, Ohio, who will return in 2012 to guide our expedition. 2011 Expedition participants raved about how much they learned — even the most experienced among them!.  The Robbins’ are versatile, experienced teachers and coaches whose work has been published in national photography magazines.  Their website features photos from our 2011 expedition!

  

The colonial city of Oaxaca de Juarez is located 375 miles south of Mexico City, closer to Central America.  It can be reached directly from the U.S. by Continental Airlines/United Airlines from Houston, TX.  (We encourage you to use this shorter, more direct route.)

I felt extremely safe, the people are so warm and welcoming. I loved the culture.  The cooking class was an incredible experience.  Everything is beautiful here. -Emily Fox

  

We will be based 30-minutes outside of Oaxaca City in the Zapotec village of Teotitlan del Valle.  We are there during the annual saint’s day festival, featuring the colorful Parade of the Baskets (Calenda de las Canastas) and the extraordinary Dance of the Feather (Danza de la Pluma).  Throughout the week, we provide you with access to private homes and artist studios to enrich and personalize your photographic experience.

  

You will participate in a cooking class to learn more about regional indigenous foods and their preparation — photography welcomed!

The cooking class was great and it provided wonderful photo opportunities. The instructors are exceptional, and there are endless picture subjects here. I learned the different functions of my digital camera. -Kellie Fitzgerald

  

We’ll roam the huge regional Tlacolula market where vendors sell everything from live turkeys, handmade chocolate, woven hammocks, and the kitchen sink.   On market days, people come from remote mountain villages to buy and sell dressed in traditional indigenous clothing–a feast for the photographer’s eye.

  

We’ll also visit San Pablo Villa de Mitla archeological site, and stop to photograph the 3,000 year old cypress tree that is 160 feet in diameter at Santa Maria del Tule on our way to spend a day in Oaxaca City.

Both Tom and Sam were very interested in helping us improve as photographers. They answered all questions and provided excellent feedback.  I discovered that I enjoy photography that has an artist focus and how nice it is to be in a village with friendly people, in a culture that is so rich in ancient traditions.  –Chris Willmore

  

You do not have to be experienced to participate!

Most importantly you will learn to use your digital camera to the full extent of its capabilities and yours!  Whether you are a beginner, amateur or intermediate level photographer, this is the travel photography workshop you have been looking for!

Most valuable for me was learning how to use the manual controls of my camera, learning about depth of field and the macro settings.  Norma’s community connections provided unusual access to artisans. –Dan O’Brien

Topics Covered:

  • Using manual camera settings
  • Understanding composition
  • Capturing light, shadow and reflection
  • Knowing more about aperature and shutter speed
  • Determining when to use flash
  • Experimenting with black and white, and sepia
  • Exploring the essentials of landscape and portraiture
  • Applying editing software for special effects
  • Identifying what equipment is most useful
  • Getting feedback for steady improvement

This is a different experience from walking around and being a tourist! It means immersion, looking for opportunities to see things from an alternate perspective.  During the workshop, you will review each other’s work, give each other feedback, and provide gentle critique, all with the expert guidance and coaching from Tom and Sam.  A group presentation at the end of the week will give you an opportunity to showcase your best work and select a theme, if you choose.

  

This is a walking expedition!  Instruction will include both formal group discussion and a learn-as-you-go organic, flexible format.

  

Come with us!  Summer is the perfect time to explore the vibrancy, color and beauty of southern Mexico.   Farmers are tilling their fields with wood plows yoked to oxen, planting indigenous, organic corn.  Maize is ground by hand on metates in family courtyards to prepare tamales for red mole (MOH-lay) sauce local festivals.  The aroma and taste of just-made chocolate, mescal and mole stimulate the senses.   Days are warm and evenings are mild at this 6,000 ft. high desert plateau where sheep and burros graze, guacalotes cackle and eagles soar.

Sam (behind the camera) and Tom Robbins lead summer 2012 Oaxaca Photography Expedition

About Husband and Wife Photographers Tom and Sam Robbins, Your Expedition Guides and Workshop Leaders

Tom Robbins, a photographer for more than 40 years, is a professor of architecture at Columbus (Ohio) State Community College.  His careers in architecture and education have deepened his love for,  and understanding of design, composition and visual impact.  Tom and his wife, Sam, have exhibited widely and their work has been published in “Black and White Magazine.”  Tom has photographed extensively in rural Ohio, New Orleans, and Southern Mexico where he finds the landscapes, the architecture and the people wonderfully photogenic. In the last five years, Tom and Sam have made Mexico the primary subject of their photography and have visited Oaxaca and the surrounding villages numerous times.  Most of Tom’s work has been with 35 mm SLR and medium format cameras.

A serious photographer for over 20 years, Sam Robbins considers herself to be a “photographic hunter.”  Like her husband, Tom, she is most comfortable walking and wandering with her camera at the ready. While she has done studio portrait work, she is happiest allowing photographs to present themselves.  Sam teaches art, English and photography.  She sees sharing her passion for photography with students as one of the most rewarding experiences of her life.  Sam is also a quilter, and believes that her work with color and design have contributed to her photographic eye.  Though most of her work has been with a 35 mm SLR, she also has shot with medium format and really enjoys using a plastic, toy camera.  Recently, Sam taught and exhibited at the Museo Textil de Oaxaca, where English and Spanish-speaking participants applauded her thoughtful, supportive style.

Tom holds the Bachelor’s in Architecture from the University of Illinois.  Sam holds the B.A. in political science from Ohio University and the M.A. in English Education from The Ohio State University with an art minor from Otterbein University.

See their work at   www.robbinsx2.com

  

Sam and Tom are the ideal instructions.  Any experience with them is one that is worthwhile.  I would recommend this program to others.  It is life changing and breathtaking.  — Emily Moore

Preliminary Itinerary (subject to change)

Day One,  Friday, June 29: Teotitlan.   This is your travel day. Arrive and settle in to our bed and breakfast. Dinner on your own.

Day Two, Saturday, June 30:  Teotitlan. Breakfast and learning session. Explore Teotitlan del Valle on foot: meet artisans, walk nature trails.  Group lunch.  Afternoon on your own. “Best of the Day” show and tell.  Group dinner. (B,L,D)

Day Three, Sunday, July 1:  Tlacolula Market.  After the morning learning session, climb on the local bus to travel 15 minutes to the Sunday tianguis or regional market. Return late afternoon.  “Best of the Day” show and tell. Group dinner.  (B,L,D)

Day Four, Monday, July 2: Oaxaca and “El Tule.  Lunch and dinner on your own.  (B)

Day Five, Tuesday, July 3: Cooking class. Early evening “Best of the Day” show and tell.  Group dinner.   (B, L, D)

Day Six, Wednesday, July 4,:  After breakfast and the morning learning session, we’ll travel to San Pablo Villa de Mitla to photograph this famed archeological site.  “Best of Day” show and tell.  Group dinner (B, L, D)

Day Seven, Thursday, July 5: After breakfast and the morning learning session, you’ll have the day to enjoy on your own to explore the village and surrounding countryside or return to Oaxaca City.  This is a free day.  Meet at 5:00 p.m. for the Parade of the Canastas – to begin the Teotitlan del Valle village saint day celebrations.   (B, D)

Day Eight, Friday, July 6:  After breakfast and the learning session, begin preparing your final presentation.  The Dance of the Feather starts in late afternoon in the church courtyard and continues non-stop through 10 p.m. followed by fireworks.  Participants will dance in full dress regalia.  The Dance dramatizes the story of the Spanish conquest and the roles of Cortes and Moctezuma.  Be sure to save a place for shots of those fantastic plumed headdresses and handwoven tapestry shields.  After dinner, we will have our Best of Week show.  (B, D)

Day Nine, Saturday, July 7:  Departure.

Optional Additional Days:  You may wish to stay in the village for several more days or arrive a few days earlier.  We are happy to arrange this for you at a cost of $48 per night per person for each additional day (includes breakfast only).

Dance of the Feather, Danza de la Pluma

What You Should Bring

1)     Your energy and enthusiasm

2)     Digital SLR camera

3)     Laptop computer

4)     Software for organizing and presenting images (such as Photoshop Express)

5)     Batteries and battery charger

6)     Memory card(s) and card reader

7)     Pen and notepad

8)    Memory stick–jump drive

Plus, sturdy, comfortable walking shoes, sun protection, sun hat

(Upon registration, you will receive a complete packet and information guide with suggested packing list and other useful information.)

 

Lodging/Accommodations

To keep this trip affordable, we stay in a local bed and breakfast operated by three generations of women — grandmother, mother, daughter — all great cooks! The food is all handcrafted and delicious.  Vegetarian options are available.

Accommodations are clean and basic.  Shared baths are across the courtyard. (Bring flip-flops and flashlight.)  You will have the option of having a double room with shared bath for the base price of the trip; single supplement with shared bath (add $200); shared room with private bath (add $200); single room with private bath (add $300).  Please indicate your preference.  If you desire upscale accommodations, please consider a different program!

Cost:  The base cost for the trip is $1295.00 USD. This includes 8 nights lodging double occupancy, 8 breakfasts,  4 lunches, 6 dinners, cooking class, transportation to villages and archeological sites, and all instruction.  Most travel programs of this type and length cost more than twice as much!

It does NOT include airfare, taxes, admissions to museums and archeological sites, gratuities, travel insurance, liquor/alcoholic beverages, some meals and some transportation.

Costs, Reservations,  and Cancellations

A 50% deposit ($650) is required to guarantee your spot.  The final payment for the balance due (including any supplemental costs) shall be postmarked by April 1, 2012.  We prefer Payment with PayPal.  We will be happy to send you an  invoice.

Note: Our last photography workshop filled up immediately.  Don’t hesitate if you want to attend!

If cancellation is necessary, please notify us in writing by email.   After April 1, no refunds are possible; however, we will make every possible effort to fill your reserved space.  If you cancel before April 1, we will refund 50% of your deposit.  We strongly recommend that you take out trip cancellation, baggage, emergency evacuation and medical insurance before you begin your trip, since unforeseen circumstances are possible.

To register or for questions, contact:  normahawthorne@mac.com or call (919) 274-6194

Please make your deposit payable to Norma Hawthorne, OCN-LLC and mail it to: Norma Hawthorne, 110 Blue Heron Farm Rd., Pittsboro, NC 27312.  Thank you.

Photos by Norma Hawthorne with the exception of the Robbins’ portrait. I use a Nikon D40X camera body and a 28-300mm Nikkor lens.

This workshop is produced by Norma Hawthorne, Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC.  For more information, see:  www.oaxacaculture.com

Oaxaca Dance of the Feather: Always Carry a Second Battery

It was late afternoon on July 6, 2011 when the dancers assembled in the church courtyard to begin.  They would dance into the night until almost 10 p.m.  The day was balmy with a light breeze.  Perfect weather.

I arrived just as they were getting started, after I had hiked out into the countryside, wandering the outskirts of the village along dirt paths rutted by summer rains, smelling the dark loamy soil recently plowed and planted — the milpas — with beans, corn and squash.

Of course, taking pictures along the way of a cactus flower just ready to bloom, a hummingbird suckling at a Bougainvillea flower, a lazy dog sleeping under the rear axle of a rusting truck.

Even though there were many more people this afternoon, it seemed that I was closer to the dancers than the day before.

I could capture the detail of their intricate hand-woven tapestries that adorned their backs — each a work of art, each an emblem to identify each dancer, perhaps even woven by his own hand or that of a close family member.

My camera could capture the intensity of the physical exertion and the moment of rest when the “clown” pours a cup of water to quench thirst.

                                                             The dancers and the soldiers were milling about, then.  At the microphone the master of ceremonies introduced the village president and leaders.  Pyramids of beer reminded me of Aztec temples.  People facing the sun on the east side of the courtyard held fragrant leafy bouquets in front of their faces to shield the sun.

There was applause for the dancers and their maestro. The boy soldiers got up and formed a military line.  An emissary carried a message to Moctezuma. Dancers and soldiers began circling each other clockwise and counterclockwise, around and around the Moctezuma, Malinche and Dona Marina seated on a throne at the center of the circle.

Energy was building and beginning to erupt, as if in preparation for a major battle.

The Spanish captain was conferring with his troops about what action to take next.

And, then DRATZ my camera battery went out and I had left my spare back home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oaxaca Festivals: Dance of the Feather, Teotitlan del Valle 2011

Power, movement, coordination of Los Danzantes

One of the great Oaxaca festivals is the Dance of the Feather in Teotitlan del Valle — a must-see for every Oaxaca resident and tourist.  It is a story of honor, conquest, survival and endurance. As a dance, its roots are pre-Hispanic and with most rituals and traditions in Oaxaca, it has evolved to blend both the indigenous and Catholic.

High leaps, shaking rattles and elegant headdresses

Every three years a new group forms to make the promise and commitment to honor the traditions by recounting the story of the Spanish conquest through dance.  This year is the premiere Los Danzantes de la Pluma for this new group.

El Danzante de la Pluma

I have written extensively on this blog about the meaning of the Dance of the Feather, its origins and history and cultural significance, so I am not going to go into that here.  If you are interested, use the “search” box in the upper left column.

The clown/jester distracts the crowd, attends to dancers' needs for water and headdress adjustment

This new group is larger than those in the past and has expanded the interpretation of the dance to include many more “characters” — Spanish soldiers (in the form of children dressed in military garb) dueling with Aztec warriors, and two alter-ego counterparts of La Malinche and La Dona Marina (La Llarona).

La Llarona (l) and La Malinche (r) with Moctezuma

I was at the church courtyard early waiting for the 5 p.m. Teotitlan start time.  Taurino, Eloisa’s husband, was in the bell tower waiting for the precise moment to begin the ringing that would signify the ritual beginning.  The band marched into the courtyard followed by Los Danzantes and went into the church for a blessing and a prayer.  It was cloudy and overcast, but as soon as the bells began to ring the sun appeared and the late afternoon halos were spectacular.

Dancers exhibit incredible concentration

After an hour-and-a-half, I had taken over 500 shots on my camera.  Sam Robbins, our photography expedition instructor, let me borrow her Nikkor 28-300mm lens.  I was able to capture some very fancy footwork, incredible headdresses, glittering costumes and a lot of resolve.

Sense the momentum, energy and color

Today was a relatively small gathering of locals who came to watch and encourage the group who would dance for four hours.  Village officials ringed the courtyard ready to receive tribute from the dancers.  They will toast the dancers’ strength and endurance with mescal and beer chasers followed by lime slices and gusano.

The symbolic battle between Aztecs and Spaniards

On Wednesday, July 6, 2011, hundreds will gather in the church courtyard from throughout Oaxaca.  The group will dance for about 10 hours straight from morning through the heat of the day, taking short periodic breaks for rest and refreshment.  Hopefully, the day won’t be too hot!

"Soldiers" taking a break

...and once more around the courtyard.

See my YouTube channel  for our documentary film about the Dance of the Feather.

I am shooting with a Nikon D40x camera body and 18-105 lens.  For about half of these photos, I used the telescopic 18-300 lens borrowed from Sam for the action/power shots.

Consider participating in our Day of the Dead Photography Expedition coming up this October 2011.