The Dance of the Feather — Danza de la Pluma — is a cultural phenomenon in the Valles Centrales de Oaxaca — Oaxaca’s central valleys. It’s especially true here in Teotitlan del Valle where the church feast day celebration is perfected to an art form.
Leaps and fancy footwork define Teotitlan del Valle’s Dance of the Feathers
If you are in Oaxaca now through the weekend, you will want to come out either today, July 5, or Saturday and Sunday, July 8 and 9, from 2 until 9 p.m. when the dancers will act out the complex story of the conquest, and the battle between the Aztecs and Spaniards.
I’m told that it’s the indigenous people who always win in this version of the story!
Dancing in front of the Moctezuma, who is flanked by Dona Marina and Malinche
Doña Marina/La Malinche represent the same woman and syncretism of modern Mexico. Yet, this is a personal story about conquest, slavery and how a woman became maligned as part of the cultural history.
Skill, athleticism, concentration for dancing
I’ve attended this annual festival almost yearly since 2006, when cousins and nephews of my host family made their three-year commitment to dance in honor of community, religion and customs. Their last dance was in 2009.
They dance this way for up to 12 hours, with few breaks.
This is the second year for the group that is dancing now. They have one more year, and then the feather headdresses are passed along to the next set of young men. This is not a performance, it is a serious act of commitment.
In the church courtyard with sacred mountain Picacho watching over us.
As I sat and then stood, and then wandered around the periphery, I was reminded how much energy goes into this endeavor. And, how energizing it is to give witness to this tradition that has gone on here for decades, maybe even centuries. The entire pueblo comes out to pay tribute and applause.
La Malinche, represents Cortez’ indigenous slave who becomes Dona Marina, convert
This is a pre-Hispanic tradition that was incorporated, like many others, into the Catholic church saint’s day celebrations. In reality, it is an oral history through dance and mime and music.
All come to watch, the abuelos (grandparents) and ninos (children)
Inside the inner church patio, the canastas (baskets) sit, ready to be stored for another year. Young girls wearing traditional dress carried them on their heads the night before. The parade through the streets touches every neighborhood.
Canastas, with notations about neighborhood, mayordomo (sponsor), when made
Onlookers take seats under the corridor for shade
On the other side of the church wall, on the streets surrounding the permanent village market, is a different scene. It’s a carnival. Games, rides, food stands, music compete for entertainment.
Juxtaposition of contemporary and traditional life
This experience is mesmerizing for children. It’s like a circus mid-way or a Midwest USA State Fair.
The kids love it, pure fun, cotton candy, fast, fast.
Take a seat. Grab and go tacos al pastor. Win a teddy bear. Oh, yes, the pastries, ice cream and candy are divine.
This is an intricate web of bamboo scaffolding. See the Dancer, top left.
Back inside the church courtyard, the men are setting up the scaffolding and fireworks for the 10:00 p.m. show. It’s called a Castillo or castle.
It’s a complex structure of bamboo with spinning parts, explosives attached!
And the dancing continued until sunset — puesta del sol — when the church bells rang and the dancers set their headdresses down on the brick floor until the next day.
Dusk brings the snack vendors to feed the fireworks watchers
I couldn’t stay up that late! But, I watched from my rooftop in the distance.
A mile away, I can see the church and flags, hear the delight
About 500 years ago the Spaniards conquered the Zapotecs of the Central Valleys of Oaxaca. Many indigenous people died, and it is said that the population was reduced by 90% during the two centuries that followed. From the stories of the battle, this beautiful dance emerged, which is carried out in certain cities in the center of Oaxaca, and is also a part of the Folkloric Festival called Guelaguetza in late July.
Dancers catch their breath, walking in a circle, rattles shaking
LA DANZA DE LA PLUMA, is originally from the town of Cuilapan de Guerrero, a municipality adjacent to the town of Zaachila and the municipality of Santa Cruz Xoxocotlan. The dance is as old as Oaxaca culture and still preserved. The main characters are a Moctezuma, a Malinche and the converted Malinche who became known as Doña Marina, plus the two jesters or mockers.
Women watch relatives from under the corridor
Children grab a birds-eye perch to get a better look
Los Danzantes de la Pluma, Dance of the Feather, Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca
There are two days of fiestas that started on September 6 with a Parade of the Canastas, this year’s group of Las Danzantes de la Pluma (Feather Dancers), and dances and fireworks last night.
Janet Chavez Santiago, Parade of the Baskets, , Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca
Today, starting at 1:00 p.m., there is a festival all day in courtyard in front of the church. The Dance of the Feathers is a spectacle, but it is also an important three-year commitment the young men make to the church, religious and cultural traditions of the Teotitlan del Valle.
Come see how high they leap, Dance of the Feather, Teotitlan del Valle
Fiesta time brings live music, traditional dancing, lots of beer and mezcal, and a chance to visit one of the most beautiful villages in the Oaxaca valley.
Unmarried young women in the Convite de las Canastas, Teotitlan del Valle
The band is a very important part of the tradition, with pre-Hispanic flute (left)
If you decide to spend the night, consider Casa Elena or Las Granadas B&B. Both offer wonderful hospitality.
Felipe Flores has a 2-year volunteer commitment on the village police force
Lupita Chavez joins the young women’s processions this year
Flags blew in front of her smiling face at the perfect moment
Holding up papier mache chickens, at the parade start
Clown serves as distraction for crowd and dancer cheerleader
Pre-Hispanic Zapotec carvings embedded in church wall
The conquerors of Mexico built churches atop indigenous temples, using the stones and carvings for foundations and to attract the people to the new religion.
Festival banners and balloons lead the procession
Entering the staging area inside the church courtyard
Lining up to begin the procession through town
Ana Paula Fuentes visited with other friends for lunch; at the fiesta
Janet Chavez Santiago in front of Teotitlan’s church
Preciosa de Sangre de Cristo Church, Teotitlan del Valle
Monday, July 6, about 4 p.m., Parade of the Canastas, Church Courtyard. The procession of young women in traditional Zapotec dress and carrying heavy baskets on their heads winds through the cobbled village streets. In front of them is the band and coming up from behind are the Dancers in full regalia. There is no dancing today.
Tuesday, July 7, about 4 p.m., Dance of the Feathers in the church courtyard, continuing until dark, then fireworks display.
Wednesday, July 8, 12:00 noon until about 8 p.m., Dance of the Feathers. This is the big dancing day when those who volunteer for this ritual and tradition continue almost non-stop all afternoon into the evening. Basketball tourney next to market.
Saturday, July 11, 12:00 non until about 8 p.m., Dance of the Feathers, in the church courtyard, followed by grand finale fireworks, and a public dance complete with band in the municipal building courtyard.
There will be carnival rides, a street fair and lots of food vendors. The almost completed new basketball court next to the village market will hold a tournament there on Wednesday, too. Ojala!
Sleep over, if you like. There are good local accommodations at Las Granadas B&B and Casa Elena B&B. You can find them on the internet. I hear some people in the village are renting rooms on Airbnb, too.
Enjoy yourself. Take lots of photographs and post them on our new Facebook page Mexico Travel Photography.
I’m off to the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market for a textile extravaganza on Monday, July 6, so I’ll miss my village’s festivities this year. Send me photos, if you like, to post about what you see and do!
Posted onMonday, July 7, 2014|Comments Off on 2014 Dance of the Feather Schedule: Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca
Today, Monday, July 7, the Zapotec weaving village of Teotitlan del Valle begins its weeklong fiesta to celebrate its Catholic Church of the Precious Blood with a calenda de las canastas — the parade of the canastas. This starts in the church courtyard today around 6:00 p.m. Oaxaca time. Which means, it starts at 5 p.m. in Teotitlan del Valle because here, time never changes!
Times are never exact either. So, I suggest if you come today, you arrive around 5 p.m. and go into the inner church courtyard to watch the young women assemble with their elaborate baskets that they will carry on their heads in a procession throughout the village. The baskets are adorned with flowers and religious images. The women, who must be unmarried to participate, wear extraordinary traditional traje or dress that is indicative of this particular village.
Tuesday, July 8, at 8 p.m. there will be the introduction of this year’s Danzantes — the dancers who have made the three year commitment to participate in this ancient pre-Hispanic rite — in the church courtyard. They will dance a short program and then this will be followed by a festive fireworks display.
Wednesday, July 9, at 1 p.m, the Danza de la Pluma will begin in the church courtyard. The dancers will demonstrate their prowess for the next 10 hours, taking intermittent breaks.
They were born or raised in Santa Ana, California, which they call Santana. They keep sacred Zapotec traditions alive by practicing life cycle events from their Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca homeland.
Most especially, these young men know what it means to be a Danzante — a dancer. The Dance of the Feather or Danza de la Pluma is a ritual rite of passage. To become a dancer is to make a commitment to the principles and traditions of Zapotec life. The Danza de la Pluma is practiced with as much passion, integrity, endurance and intention in Santa Ana as it is in Teotitlan del Valle. It is not a folkloric performance. It is a serious part of Zapotec identity.
That’s why a group of young men from Santa Ana, fluent in English, Spanish and Zapotec, asked permission from the village leaders to return to Teotitlan del Valle and make the three-year commitment and live here for the duration.
Their group debut was in the early July 2013 festival to honor the patron saint and church of Teotitlan — Preciosa Sangre de Cristo. The choreography is different, the finely woven intricately designed tapestry that each dancer wears on his back was either made by the dancer or a father, uncle or grandfather.
They leap, twist, kneel, and it looks as if they are flying, as if God is carrying each one somewhere deep into the pre-Hispanic past to bring forth the spirit of the ancients.
Many brought their wives and young children with them. Some were reunited with family members — sisters, brothers, grandparents — after years of separation. Some have never seen their abuelos — grandparents — since they were infants or if they were born in the USA, perhaps never before.
It was a thrill to watch this group whose spirit infected the entire audience– villagers and about 150 guests of Aeromexico, the Mexican airline that offers several flights a day between Mexico City and Oaxaca. Tourism is the economic engine for Oaxaca and the weavers of Teotitlan del Valle depend upon visitors for their livelihood.
The Dance of the Feather is iconic. It is a history retold from generation to generation of the 1521 Spanish conquest, Cortes and Moctezuma, and the dual figure of La Malinche and Doña Marina. There are few stronger images to convey a sense of place and culture.
Both before and after, I talked to many of the dancers who said they love it here so much, they are wanting to stay on after their three-year promise ends.
After the festivities came to a close, many of the guests walked out of the church courtyard to the adjacent community museum and rug market. Just in time for a refreshment break, a bicycle vendor selling nieves — a Spanish word that means snow but what all of us know as delicious fresh fruit ices that Mexico is famous for! (Try the tuna — nopal cactus fruit.) Or, if you want something more substantial, there are homemade tamales in that wheelbarrow.
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Teotitlan’s Dance of the Feather: Taking Big Leaps
The Dance of the Feather — Danza de la Pluma — is a cultural phenomenon in the Valles Centrales de Oaxaca — Oaxaca’s central valleys. It’s especially true here in Teotitlan del Valle where the church feast day celebration is perfected to an art form.
Leaps and fancy footwork define Teotitlan del Valle’s Dance of the Feathers
If you are in Oaxaca now through the weekend, you will want to come out either today, July 5, or Saturday and Sunday, July 8 and 9, from 2 until 9 p.m. when the dancers will act out the complex story of the conquest, and the battle between the Aztecs and Spaniards.
I’m told that it’s the indigenous people who always win in this version of the story!
Dancing in front of the Moctezuma, who is flanked by Dona Marina and Malinche
Doña Marina/La Malinche represent the same woman and syncretism of modern Mexico. Yet, this is a personal story about conquest, slavery and how a woman became maligned as part of the cultural history.
Skill, athleticism, concentration for dancing
I’ve attended this annual festival almost yearly since 2006, when cousins and nephews of my host family made their three-year commitment to dance in honor of community, religion and customs. Their last dance was in 2009.
They dance this way for up to 12 hours, with few breaks.
This is the second year for the group that is dancing now. They have one more year, and then the feather headdresses are passed along to the next set of young men. This is not a performance, it is a serious act of commitment.
In the church courtyard with sacred mountain Picacho watching over us.
As I sat and then stood, and then wandered around the periphery, I was reminded how much energy goes into this endeavor. And, how energizing it is to give witness to this tradition that has gone on here for decades, maybe even centuries. The entire pueblo comes out to pay tribute and applause.
La Malinche, represents Cortez’ indigenous slave who becomes Dona Marina, convert
This is a pre-Hispanic tradition that was incorporated, like many others, into the Catholic church saint’s day celebrations. In reality, it is an oral history through dance and mime and music.
All come to watch, the abuelos (grandparents) and ninos (children)
Inside the inner church patio, the canastas (baskets) sit, ready to be stored for another year. Young girls wearing traditional dress carried them on their heads the night before. The parade through the streets touches every neighborhood.
Canastas, with notations about neighborhood, mayordomo (sponsor), when made
Onlookers take seats under the corridor for shade
On the other side of the church wall, on the streets surrounding the permanent village market, is a different scene. It’s a carnival. Games, rides, food stands, music compete for entertainment.
Juxtaposition of contemporary and traditional life
This experience is mesmerizing for children. It’s like a circus mid-way or a Midwest USA State Fair.
The kids love it, pure fun, cotton candy, fast, fast.
Take a seat. Grab and go tacos al pastor. Win a teddy bear. Oh, yes, the pastries, ice cream and candy are divine.
This is an intricate web of bamboo scaffolding. See the Dancer, top left.
Back inside the church courtyard, the men are setting up the scaffolding and fireworks for the 10:00 p.m. show. It’s called a Castillo or castle.
It’s a complex structure of bamboo with spinning parts, explosives attached!
And the dancing continued until sunset — puesta del sol — when the church bells rang and the dancers set their headdresses down on the brick floor until the next day.
Dusk brings the snack vendors to feed the fireworks watchers
I couldn’t stay up that late! But, I watched from my rooftop in the distance.
A mile away, I can see the church and flags, hear the delight
Footnotes of History — Dance of the Feather
About 500 years ago the Spaniards conquered the Zapotecs of the Central Valleys of Oaxaca. Many indigenous people died, and it is said that the population was reduced by 90% during the two centuries that followed. From the stories of the battle, this beautiful dance emerged, which is carried out in certain cities in the center of Oaxaca, and is also a part of the Folkloric Festival called Guelaguetza in late July.
Dancers catch their breath, walking in a circle, rattles shaking
LA DANZA DE LA PLUMA, is originally from the town of Cuilapan de Guerrero, a municipality adjacent to the town of Zaachila and the municipality of Santa Cruz Xoxocotlan. The dance is as old as Oaxaca culture and still preserved. The main characters are a Moctezuma, a Malinche and the converted Malinche who became known as Doña Marina, plus the two jesters or mockers.
Women watch relatives from under the corridor
Children grab a birds-eye perch to get a better look
Balancing this heavy headdress is not easy!
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Posted in Cultural Commentary, Teotitlan del Valle, Travel & Tourism
Tagged Dance of the Feather, Danza de la Pluma, Mexico, Oaxaca, Teotitlan del Valle