Tag Archives: Embroidery

Bucket List Tour: Monarch Butterflies + Michoacan

February 5 – 13, 2023 – 9 days, 8 nights

I never knew that visiting the Monarch butterflies in Mexico should have been on my bucket list until I got there. Tucked into the mountainous forests of Estado de Mexico is the terminus of the butterfly migration from North America where the noble Monarchs winter and reproduce. The experience is mystical, magical, life-affirming and memorable. I’ve always felt that being here is one of those moments that inspire and validate our existence on the planet, and gives us pause to appreciate the constant cycle of nature at its most magnificent.

But this is not all! After this first part of our tour, we travel to the magical craft and folk art towns of Michoacan, including Morelia, San Juan Capula, Patzcuaro and the indigenous Purepecha towns surrounding Lake Patzcuaro. We meet with famous artisans and those off-the-beaten path whose work is recognized as Grand Masters of Mexican Folk Art by Fundacion Banamex. We meet weavers, potters, embroiderers, mask-makers, coppersmiths. We explore in safety and security, led by a local guide whom I know very well. We NEVER take you into any locations that are dangerous or threatening.

This tour is limited to 12 travelers. We have five single rooms and 4 shared rooms available.

Here is our preliminary itinerary:

Day 1, Sunday, February 5: Fly to Mexico City and check in to our comfortable hotel located near the Zocalo, the historic Aztec archeological site Templo Mayor, and excellent restaurants. Day and evening on your own.

Day 2, Monday, February 6: After breakfast, welcome and orientation, join us for a walking tour of Mexico City that includes stops at Bellas Artes and Museo Franz Mayer. Afternoon on your own. Group Gala Welcome dinner. (Breakfast and dinner included. Lunch on your own.)

Day 3, Tuesday, February 7: After early breakfast, we load luggage onto the van and leave CDMX for the town of Angangueo. Here we visit San Felipe de los Alzati, and the archeological site of Zirahuato, When we arrive, we enjoy a walking tour in Angangueo and check in to our hotel. Overnight in Angangueo. (Breakfast and lunch included. Dinner on your own.)

Those orange things are butterflies, waking up to the sun

Day  4, Wednesday, February 8:  After breakfast, we pack up again and travel to El Rosario Monarch Reserve in the Sierra Chincua to observe the winter home of the majestic Monarchs. In late afternoon, we get back on the van to travel to the historic colonial city of Morelia, capital of Michoacan. Overnight in Morelia. (Breakfast and lunch included. Dinner on your own.)

Day 5, Thursday, February 9: Orientation walking tour in the Historical area of Morelia.  We have lunch together and then you have the rest of the afternoon and evening to explore at your leisure. (Breakfast and lunch included. Dinner on your own.) Overnight in Morelia.

Morelia at night

Day 6, Friday, February 10: We leave Morelia for Patzcuaro after breakfast, making a stop in San Juan Capula to visit the town where ceramic Catrina figures captivate collectors’ attention. We arrive in Patzcuaro, check in to our comfortable hotel and participate in an orientation walking tour of the historic town. Overnight in Patzcuaro. (Breakfast, lunch and dinner included.)

Painted lacquer gourds, a Michoacan specialty

Day 7, Saturday, February 11: After breakfast, we explore the artisan towns around Lake Patzcuaro, including Tupataro, Cuanajo, Santa Clara and Tzintzuntzan. Overnight in Patzcuaro. (Breakfast and lunch included. Dinner on your own.)

Day 8, Sunday, February 12: After breakfast, you have the day to yourself. Maybe you want to revisit sites around town or hire a private taxi to take you back to one of the artisan villages. We join together in early evening for a Grand Finale Dinner. (Breakfast and dinner included. Overnight in Patzcuaro.

Day 9: Monday, February 13: Transfer to the Mexico City airport. You may also choose to depart to Morelia airport or Guadalajara airport. Airport transportation is on your own. We will help you make arrangements. Breakfast included.

Cost:

Shared Room: $3,360 each person, two beds

Single Room: $3,985 one person, one bed

Non-Refundable Deposit to Reserve: $500.

About your Oaxaca Cultural Navigator Eric Chavez Santiago

Eric Chavez Santiago is an expert in Oaxaca and Mexican textiles and folk art with a special interest in artisan development and promotion. He is a weaver and natural dyer by training and a fourth generation member of the Fe y Lola textile group. He and his wife Elsa are founders of Taller Teñido a Mano dye studio where they produce naturally dyed yarn skeins and textiles for worldwide distribution. Eric is a business partner with Oaxaca Cultural Navigator, too. He is trilingual, speaking Zapotec, Spanish and English and is a native of Teotitlan del Valle. He is a graduate of Anahuac University, founder of the Museo Textil de Oaxaca education department, and former managing director of folk art gallery Andares del Arte Popular. He has intimate knowledge of local traditions, culture and community.

Norma Schafer, Oaxaca Cultural Navigator LLC founder, will accompany this group.

What is Included:

  • 8  nights lodging
  • 8  breakfasts
  • 5  lunches
  • 3 dinners
  • Snacks
  • Expert bilingual guide services
  • Museums and archeological site admissions
  • Luxury van transportation
  • An educational experience of a lifetime

What is NOT Included:

  • Airplane tickets
  • Required international travel insurance
  • In-country COVID test
  • Required vaccines, PPE and hand-sanitizer
  • Any meals, snacks and taxis not specified in the itinerary
  • All alcoholic beverages, tips for guides and services, and personal purchases

Reservations and Cancellations.  A $500 non-refundable deposit is required to guarantee your spot. You can make your reservation deposit using one of the following (please tell us which payment method you prefer):

  1. Zelle bank transfer with no service fee
  2. PayPal request for funds with a 3% service fee
  3. Venmo request for funds with a 3% service fee

The balance is due in two equal payments. The second payment of 50% of the balance is due on or before September 15, 2022. The third payment is due on or before December 1, 2022. We accept payment using online e-commerce only. We will send you an itemized invoice when you tell us you are ready to register. After December 1, 2022, there are no refunds. If you cancel on or before December 1, we will refund 50% of your deposit received to date less the $500 non-refundable deposit. After that, there are no refunds. If we cancel for whatever reason, you will receive a full refund. 

The tour and COVID-19: Many believe that the epidemic is waning, however, data say otherwise. The virus continues to mutate. You are required to be FULLY VACCINATED to participate. Fully vaccinated is defined as all vaccinations required by the CDC including boosters. You must send Proof of Vaccination (this includes all boosters) by email on or before December 1, 2022.  You can take a photo of the documentation and email it to us. All participants are required to wear N95 OR KN95 face masks when visiting artisans and it is strongly suggested that you use the mask when you are in crowds of people or indoors. We also use hand-sanitizer and practice social distancing while together. Please note: You MUST also provide proof of international travel insurance including $50,000 of emergency medical evacuation coverage. 

Registration Form

Complete the form and Send an email to Norma Schafer.

Tell us if you want a shared/double room or a private/single room and how you want to make your deposit

Who Should Attend • Anyone who wants a bucket-list experience, who is interested in indigenous culture and creativity, who wants a deep immersion experience into textile practices and traditions, and who appreciates artisan craft — weaving, embroidery, pottery. If you are a collector, come with us to go deep and find the best artisans. If you are a photographer or artist, come with us for inspiration. If you are an online retailer, come with us to buy and find the stories to market what you sell.

To Register, Policies, Procedures & Cancellations–Please Read

All documentation for plane reservations, required travel insurance, and personal health issues must be received by December 1,  2022 or we reserve the right to cancel your registration without reimbursement.

Terrain, Walking and Group Courtesy: While we are primarily transported by van, there will be some walking/hiking in the butterfly sanctuary and as we walk in towns and villages. In addition, many streets and sidewalks are cobblestones, narrow and uneven. We will do a lot of walking. We recommend you bring a walking stick and wear sturdy shoes.

If you have mobility issues or health/breathing impediments, please consider that this may not be the study tour for you.

Traveling with a small group has its advantages and also means that independent travelers will need to make accommodations to group needs and schedule. Adaptability, flexibility and respectfulness are essential. We encourage a no-whining attitude. There is adequate free time to go off on your own if you wish.

Francisca’s French Knot Blouses + Rosario’s Embroidered Shoulder Bags: Holiday Shopping

Just in time for the holidays! Colorful hand-embroidered blouses and shoulder bags from Mexico, yours to gift or for festive wearing during the next few weeks and beyond.

Francisca is an expert in embroidered blouses using the French Knot technique. She lives in Aguacatenango, a small Chiapas village about an hour-and-a-half from San Cristobal de las Casas. I met her in the plaza some years back during one of our Chiapas textile study tours (there is one space open in the March 8-16, 2022 tour). Her work was far and away the best quality of all the women there, with dense embroidery, all hand-finished seams (no machine stitching in this garment), and 100% Mexican cotton cloth called manta. During Covid, when there were no tourists (and there aren’t that many now, either), I began to order blouses from her to help the family earn income. She sent me this group of all LONG SLEEVE blouses to Oaxaca and I brought them back in my luggage.

The blouses are perfect for winter in southern climates. In the colder north, layer a white HeatTec t-shirt underneath for warmth.

Rosario is a friend from Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca. I asked her to start making these colorful embroidered shoulder bags last year, also during covid. Her family lives in a humble, concrete block house ringed by a dirt patio. In the traditional way, she cooks outside on the comal — making tortillas, tamales, beans and squash — the staples of campesinos throughout Mexico. The bags are lined, have an interior pocket and zippered closure. They are fun to wear daily or make a delightful, whimsical addition to any festive occasion.

Ethical sourcing and fair trade. I pay both these women outright for what I order at the price they ask. No bargaining! No questions asked. The money goes in their pockets immediately and we can all feel better that we are supporting women and Mexican artisan craft. Francisca told me she can only make two blouses a month! It takes Rosario a month to embroider the pieces to make eight bags. They are embroidered front and back.

How to buymailto:norma.schafer@icloud.com Tell me the item you want by number. Send me your mailing address. I will send you a PayPal invoice after you ID your choices. The invoice will include the cost of the garment + $12 mailing. If you want more than one piece, I’m happy to combine mailing. I’ll be mailing from Taos, NM. Next day mailing guarantee if you order and buy before December 10. On December 11, I’m in transit to return to Oaxaca.

Blouse details:

Size Medium/Large has an embroidered bodice that is 14” wide. Sleeve is 21” long from shoulder to cuff. (Longer sleeves this time!) 27” wide armpit to armpit. 28-1/2” long from shoulder to hem. $125 each.

Size Large/Extra Large has an embroidered bodice that is 16” wide. Sleeve is 21” long from shoulder to cuff. 29” wide armpit to armpit. 28-1/2” long from shoulder to hem. $135 each.

Care Instructions: Wash in cold water on delicate cycle in washing machine using a mild soap like Fels Naptha or baby shampoo. Do not use Woolite. Hang to dry. Use medium-hot iron to press. Or, dry clean.

SOLD. 1A. Black. Size L-XL. $135
SOLD. 1. Blue, size M-L. $125

SOLD 2. Blue, size L-XL.$135

Shown with Rosario’s shoulder bag.

#3 Purple, size M-L. $125

SOLD. 4 Purple, size L-XL. $135

#5 Purple, size L-XL. $135

SOLD. #6. Red. Size M-L. $125

SOLD. 7. Red. Size L-XL. $135

Bag Details:

Each bag is about 10” wide x 9” high and has a 44” strap that easily works as a cross-body bag.

#8. $50
#9. $50

#10. $35

#11. $50
#12. $35
#13. $50
#15. $50
#16. $50.
17. $50

Rosario’s Bolsas: Embroidered Oaxaca Shoulder Bags

Rosario is my Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, friend who is an excellent embroiderer. I asked her to make more shoulder bags to send to me to offer to you. The dimensions are similar for all of them:

  • The bag is 8″x10″ (Because they are handmade, there is some variance.)
  • The shoulder strap is 43″ long. Use as a shoulder or cross-body bag.
  • They are lined and have an inside pocket.
  • The zipper is sturdy and easy to use.
  • The floral motif is carried over from front to back.
  • The embroidery is dense and detailed.
  • Each bag costs $58 plus $12 mailing. Total is $70. We can combine orders.

To Buy: Please email me norma.schafer@icloud.com with your name, mailing address, item number and your payment preference. I will mark it SOLD. You can purchase using Venmo, Zelle, or PayPal. I will send you account information when you tell me you are ready to purchase.

I’ve known Rosario for years. She comes from a humble family that works hard to make ends meet. I have encouraged her to develop her sewing and needlework skills, and give her a new sewing machine a couple of year ago to help her sew dresses and blouses and to make these bags.

Thank you for supporting this handwork. It’s not too early, either, to start thinking about the season of gift giving and how special a handmade gift from Oaxaca would be!

Oaxaca Hand-embroidered Shoulder Bags SOLD OUT

SOLD OUT. I will reorder these. Thanks so much!

I love this bag style. I’ve been using one like these for walks, hikes, and just everyday wear for the last year-and-a-half. It’s functional and versatile and colorful and cheerful. Just about everything fits — a coin purse, credit cards, lipstick, pen and notebook, hand sanitizer and alcohol spray, lipstick and moisturizer, kleenex, and even pepper spray — just in case!

So, before I moved from Durham to Taos, I designed and commissioned my Teotitlan del Valle friend and sewist/embroiderer Rosario to make 10 bags that Janet brought with her from Oaxaca. They got packed away for the move and now, I’ve unearthed them and they are for sale here.

Each bag is durable and one-of-a-kind. They are cotton, lined, have an inside pocked, a zipper closure, a 41″ cross-body shoulder strap. They can be washed inside-out in the washing machine on gentle cycle. Each bag body is approximately 9″x 9-1/4″ in size. Priced at $45 each. Buy 2 for $80.

Remember, these are hand-made and there may be slight imperfections. All sales are final. No exchanges or refunds.

How to Buy:  Please email me normahawthorne@mac.com with your name, mailing address and item number. Tell me if you want to purchase with PayPal, Venmo, Zelle or Square. I will mark your choice(s) SOLD, send you a payment link and add $12 for cost of mailing.

Mexico Textile Treasures for Sale

I’m down to two boxes and half-a-closet of textiles and I want to sell them all before I move from North Carolina to New Mexico. These are new, never worn or used, bought from artisans whose work I admire, respect and wanted to support. Often, along the way and through the years, I bought just to support them and know that someone out there — like you — would appreciate the workmanship as much as I do. I usually don’t bargain hunt nor do I haggle on the price. I look for quality of cloth, weaving, embroidery and color. Quality is so spectacular and prices so fair based on time to create, that I considered it an honor to purchase these pieces.

Lots to choose from: 43 pieces.

SOLD. #0 Amusgos pillow cover. 18-1/2″ square. $55
#1. By Designer Alberto Gomez Lopez, Magdalena Aldama, 22″x25″ $585 $450

Alberto Gomez Lopez is a talented young designer from the Chiapas village of Magdalena Aldama in the Chiapas highlands about 2 hours beyond San Cristobal de las Casas. In January 2020 he was invited to New York Fashion Week, showcasing the back strap loom weaving of his family cooperative.

To Buy: Please email me normahawthorne@mac.com with your name, mailing address and item number. I will mark it SOLD, send you a PayPal link to purchase and add $12 for cost of mailing. Please DO NOT SELECT buying goods or services — so we don’t pay commissions. We also accept Venmo and Zelle. I can send you a Square invoice (+3% fee) if you don’t use PayPal. All sales final.

Some of these pieces I ordered especially for resale to help artisans I know who are struggling to earn enough to feed their families. Your purchases will send money back to Mexico for them.

SOLD. #2. Tenancingo ikat shawl by Luis Rodriguez, 28″ wide x 92″ long, $245 $195

Luis Rodriguez is one of the foremost ikat weavers of Tenancingo de Degollado, Estado de Mexico. Click on THIS LINK to see a video of his work. This is a full length, wide shawl, ample enough to wrap around your shoulders twice with comfort. The punta — fringes — are especially long and intricate. This piece came from his workshop-studio.

SOLD. #3. Ikat scarf by Luis Rodriguez, 31″ wide x 58″ long. $95 $70
SOLD. #4. Vintage ikat textile from Guatemala 23″ w x 40″ long. $75 $45
#5. French knots blouse, Size SMALL by Francisca, Chiapas. $120 $75

Francisca lives and works in a one-room concrete block house in Aguacatenango, Chiapas, with her husband and daughter. We discovered her about four years ago when we visited the village. Her workmanship is the best embroidery I have ever seen — dense, perfect French knots.

#6. Las Sanjuaneras, wild marigold. 35×40″ $425. $385

The Las Sanjuaneras cooperative is one of the most creative and innovative in the State of Oaxaca. They live and work in a small village, San Juan Colorado, in the highlands off the Coast of Oaxaca. They work only in cotton with natural dyes that they make themselves. It can take six to eight months to weave an exceptional collector’s huipil like the one above. Someone! Please purchase these pieces so I can send funds to the weavers!

SOLD. #7. Las Sanjuaneras, iron oxide + indigo, size L. 30×34″ $245 $195
#8. Las Sanjuaneras, 31×21-1/2″ Brazilwood, nanche. $295 $245
#9. Las Sanjuaneras, Iron oxide, mahogany. 36×37″ $425 $385
#10. Collector’s–Xochistlahuaca Cooperative. 31×50. Gala Huipil. $675 $585

Yezi in Xochistlahuaca, Guerrero, an Amusgo village, sent pieces to me to sell for her cooperative. They are remote and have little opportunity to market their pieces. This is a special GALA huipil woven and worn for special occasions. Please support what they do!

#11. Amusgo, size L, 29×50″ $245 $195
#12. San Mateo del Mar Palafox family, fine cotton with indigo. 25Wx48L $595 $525

The Palafox family are the premier weavers in the coastal village of San Mateo del Mar. They were devastated by the recent earthquake. This is a VERY FINE back-strap loom woven huipil dyed with indigo. Figures include crabs, palm trees, deer, fish — life at the beach!

#13. San Mateo del Mar Poncho, 100% cotton, 37″W x 31″ Size L-XL. $425 $375

Warm enough for winter, this poncho is double-woven and glorious.

#14. French knots by Francisca, Aguacatenango, Chiapas. Size M. $120 $95
SOLD. #16. Super-Fancy Apron. San Miguel del Valle, Oaxaca. L-XL. $145 $115
SOLD. #17. Collector’s huipil, San Felipe Usila, Oaxaca. L-XL. $595 $495

This piece is woven by Jorge Isidro’s mother. Where is San Felipe Usila? Between Veracruz and Oaxaca, high in the mountains, a 12-hour bus ride from Oaxaca City. Pieces like this are selling for upwards of $700 in the city.

SOLD. #18. Everyday apron, Tlacolula, L-XL. $65 $45
SOLD. #19. Fancy Apron. San Miguel del Valle, Oaxaca. L-XL. $125 $95

To Buy: Please email me normahawthorne@mac.com with your name, mailing address and item number. I will mark it SOLD, send you a PayPal link to purchase and add $12 for cost of mailing. Please DO NOT SELECT buying goods or services — so we don’t pay commissions. We also accept Venmo and Zelle. I can send you a Square invoice (+3% fee) if you don’t use PayPal. All sales final.

#20. Rare Xochistlahuaca, Native Green, Coyuchi + White Cotton Huipil, 30×46, $750 $650

I’ve marked this piece down to sell. It is gorgeous, soft and luxurious native Oaxaca cotton.

SOLD. #21. Size Large, French Knots blouse by Francisca, $120 $95
#22. Las Sanjuaneras, 30×21″ $320 $260
#23. Chiapas. 23″ wide x 24″ high. $55

Finest, softest cotton with intricate embroidery from Jolom Mayetik Cooperative.

SOLD. #24. San Andres Larrainzar, back-strap loom. Cotton. 26″ wide x 27″ high. $65
SOLD. #25. Chiapas. Aldama Magdalenas. 26″ wide x 28″ high. $45

Aldama Magdalenas is a Maya village almost three hours from San Cristobal de las Casas. We visit the cooperative formed by Rosa and Cristobal during our Chiapas Textile Tour. This is a traditional village that depends on weaving and subsistence farming.

SOLD. #26. Chiapas. 23″ wide x 24″ high. $55
SOLD. #27. Amusgo, Oaxaca. Ruana. 30″ wide x 20″ high. $45.

The ruana is a garment that is like a poncho, but open in the front. You can wear this as shown, or wrap the front flaps around your shoulders. Open on both sides.

SOLD. #28. Beautiful cochineal bag from Bii Dauu Cooperative. $55

Measures 10″ high x 13″ wide. Bii Dauu has been working in natural dyes for over 25 years in Teotitlan del Valle. The work is exceptional. This bag has a zipper and is lined with an inside zip pocket.

SOLD. #29. Chiapas. San Juan Chamula 9 x 11. $25

A great shoulder bag for toting accessories, make-up or travel documents. Amazing embroidery on natural combed sheep wool.

SOLD. #30. Tito Mendoza loomed shoulder bag. 7″x8″ $85

Erasto “Tito” Mendoza wove this bag for me many years ago. The Mendoza family of Teotitlan del Valle is known for their outstanding craftsmanship. It’s been in my collection for years. I still have a couple others! You may recognize the weaving style. Tito is the first cousin of famed Arnulfo Mendoza who passed a few years ago.

#31. Chiapas. Guitar strap or belt. 2-1/2″ x 32″ $25
#32. Folk art blouse. Jamiltepec, Oaxaca. 25″wide x 22″ high. $45

This is a traditional style from the Oaxaca coast created on the back strap loom and then embellished with embroidery. Fun, funky wearable art.

SOLD. #33. San Antonino Deshillado + Embroidered Blouse. 24″ w x 25″ long. $45

This is the village that makes the Oaxaca wedding dress! The blouse features finest embroidery of birds, pansies, and flowers. Deshillado is the pulled thread openwork treatment — a complex, intricate process.

SOLD. #34. Chiapas. 25″w x 27″ long. $65

This textile is from the famous cooperative Sna Jolobil founded by Chip Morris and Pedro Meza. It’s priced at far less than what I paid for it.

#15 Isthmus of Tehuantepec. 24″ wide x 21-1/2″ high. $55
SOLD. #35. Large, handwoven market bag, colored with smoke. Chiapas. $95

These market bags are made from natural plant fiber. The leather straps are adjustable. A perfect expandable bag to go anywhere and hold anything. They are hand-woven by one of the few remaining old men who do this type of work. It takes about 3 months to weave.

To Buy: Please email me normahawthorne@mac.com with your name, mailing address and item number. I will mark it SOLD, send you a PayPal link to purchase and add $12 for cost of mailing. Please DO NOT SELECT buying goods or services — so we don’t pay commissions. We also accept Venmo and Zelle. I can send you a Square invoice (+3% fee) if you don’t use PayPal. All sales final.

SOLD. #36. Medium market bag. Chiapas. $75
SOLD. 37. Small market bag, $65.
SOLD. #38. Yalalag village blouse. Little embroidered people! 22″wide x 26″ tall. $25
SOLD. #39. Chiapas, Jacquard woven shawl or table runner. 12×70″ $65
#40. Indigo ikat + zapote negro, 22×33″. $295 $275
SOLD. #41 Indigo, cochineal, undyed wool, 23×36″ $285 $255
#42. Cochineal, indigo, marigold, pomegranate, 23×23″ $195 $175
#43. Indigo, undyed wool, cochineal, pomegranate, 23×23″ $195 $175