Oaxaca is famed for her mole. That’s pronounced MOH-lay. Accent on the first syllable. There are seven moles that make Oaxaca famous. The most difficult and complex is the spicy, chocolate-based mole negro. The others include estofado (olives), amarillo (yellow), verde (green), coloradito (red), mancha mantelos, and chichilo.
Last week, I had both the good fortune and good sense to finally take a cooking class with Pilar Cabrera Arroyo. Pilar is the stellar chef who owns and operates La Olla Restaurant at Av. Reforma #402 in the Centro Historico. The cooking class was held at Casa de los Milagros (corner Crespo and Matamoros). This is a new location. The cooking school onced located at Casa de los Sabores has moved here to the family-owned bed and breakfast. (A spectacular spot!)
Pilar's Cooking Class Kitchen: The Ultimate!
Pilar describes mole as salsa with masa that is added as a thickener. Thus, she says, any sauce can become a mole! Yesterday morning we prepared mole amarillo that uses yellow chiles that are indigenous to Oaxaca.
We found them at the Merced Market where we took a shopping field trip before the class began. Pilar took us around to her favorite stalls, identifying the best places to buy eggs, cheese, fresh cow’s milk (for the arroz con leche), and we even found huitlacoche (corn smut) to use in the quesadilla botanas (appetizers) we would later make.
As we toured around the market, we sampled chocolate atole, a traditional Zapotec beverage made with corn meal (muy fuerte, my local friends say), and I bought an amulet that locals use to keep the spirit world at peace.
Mirrors and seeds are amulets to hang behind the bedroom door
We shopped for perfect yellow chiles Oaxaquenos and chiles guajillos. The chiles are roasted until they are 90% black. Then you put them in a plastic bag or covered bowl to sweat so they are easier to peel (I had no idea about this until now). Many of us gringos wore surgical gloves while we seeded and de-veined the chiles so that our skin wouldn’t burn, removing the skin using paper towels. (Careful not to put your fingers in your eyes, says Pilar.) Then we cut them into julienne strips.
Chiles roasting on the gas flame
Pilar’s gas 4-burner gas cooktop is commercial grade (brand name is San-Son). She has another range in the kitchen that also has an oven.
Grilling onions, garlic, tomatoes on the comal
A cast iron comal is used to grill the whole garlic cloves, onions and tomatoes that we will use for the mole amarillo. We use a professional blender instead of the traditional stone metate to combine the peppers, tomatoes and spices.
Classes are are on Tuesdays and Thursdays and you must register in advance through her Web site www.casadelossabores.com or you can call her restaurant La Olla to make a reservation and pay when you get there. Cost is $70 USD and well worth it. We feasted on a five-course meal, including dessert, mescal and beer.
Penland School Cooks in Oaxaca
We will be going back in time this week. A few days ago our participants from Penland School of Crafts gathered at Casa de los Sabores, the cooking school operated by chef Pilar Cabrera Arroyo.
Our menu focused on mezcal including a flaming skewered pineapple and shrimp dish that went up in flames before we ate it. The pineapple chunks were soaked in mezcal so the natural sugars ignited instantly. They were accompanied by a salad featuring tiny tomatillos that we ate raw.
Pilar has been preparing great food for a long time. Her La Olla Restaurant is well known in the city for using organic ingredients that are artfully prepared. Because our study tour focuses on Oaxaca arts and artisanry, food is an important ingredient in the Oaxaca mix.
Pilar is also very knowledgeable about the artesenal process of cultivating and distilling mezcal, too. Before we sat down to the meal we participated in preparing, we enjoyed a four-flight mezcal tasting that began with young espadin. She explained the different varietals, aging process and the rising cost of the smokey beverage based on escalating international interest.
First, it’s important to smell. Then, take a first sip and let it go down your throat slowly. At the end of your drink, suck on an orange slice dipped in worm salt (sal de gusano) for a perfect finish.
After the memelitas with squash blossoms and queso fresco, and after the chicken with mole amarillo, we ended with an incredible flan.
With a beautiful table and an array of complex tastes, we were more than satisfied. Oh, and I forgot to mention a shopping trip to the Mercado de la Merced before the class started to pick up essential ingredients.
I work with local experts and guides to put together an unusual and intimate view of Oaxaca, her art, food and culture. I am not a tour guide but an expert at award-winning university program development. If you organization has interest in a program such as this one, please contact me.
Like this:
Comments Off on Penland School Cooks in Oaxaca
Posted in Cultural Commentary, Food & Recipes, Photography, Travel & Tourism, Workshops and Retreats
Tagged Casa de los Sabores, class, cooking, cuisine, culture, food, La Olla Restaurant, markets, Mexico, Oaxaca, organic, Penland School of Crafts, Pilar Cabrera, tour, workshop