Our blog post today is written Eva M. Olson, a writer and former arts administrator based in Austin, Texas. I invited Eva to share her Oaxaca “foodie” experiences after she and a friend made a recent whirlwind eating trip. Eva first visited Oaxaca with her family when she was 13, and says she has been fortunate to return to her “casa de alma“ many times since then. Here’s her take on several of Oaxaca’s best restaurants.
Oaxaca Comida–Buen Provecho! by Eva M. Olson
Returning to Oaxaca always feels like coming home. The air, the people, and the active zocalo are soothing and familiar. My last visit was in November 2007, when Oaxaca was still reeling from the teachers’ strike and its aftermath. Now, almost six years later, the city’s energy feels whole again. Since dining well is central to any journey, and especially here, my best companion and fellow foodie B. and I decided to try a few new restaurants as well as some of my old haunts. We stayed at Hotel Casa Oaxaca, a centrally located spot from which to launch our dining expeditions.
Our first night, we wandered into one of my favorite spots, Casa Oaxaca Restaurant where chef Alejandro Ruiz has developed a succulent tribute to the distinctive cuisine of the region. And it turned out to be the best meal of our visit. Every detail was covered – the presentation and the service were perfection – and our food was luscious.
B. had the silky blue bean soup and I had a gorgeous salad of fresh tomatoes, queso fresco, and watermelon (above). Our entrees were simple grilled seafood – shrimp for B. and for me a whole octopus (breathtaking and perfectly prepared). For dessert, a trio of sorbets – limon, coco, y leche quemada –lime, coconut and burnt milk (below).
(Sadly, the wine here – as well as everywhere we ate – was disappointing. The list of wines by the glass was thin and the choices expensive. I realize that Oaxaca’s beverage of choice is mezcal, but it overpowers food, and I really enjoy a glass of wine with a meal.) But, did I mention the attentive, relaxed, and thoughtful service? The bill for this extraordinary meal was just over $100 USD (plus about a 15 percent tip).
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We had Saturday night reservations at Origen – friends had recommended it highly, and we were looking forward to discovering a new restaurant star. It was underwhelming and ordinary on all counts – definitely not the outstanding meal we’d been anticipating.
Our salads were adequate – mine with grapefruit and smoked trout (though not much of it) and B.’s mixed greens with an abundance of purslane (definitely an acquired taste). My sea bass with rice was unmemorable; B.’s ribeye with marrow was well prepared, and the marrow rub was excellent (arguably the best part of the meal). Our merengue dessert was delayed for almost 30 minutes – and the mushy white paste that arrived was inedible. We were the only people there, until a couple showed up at the end of our meal. The bill here was $110 USD plus tip.
The following day we walked a lot, and on an early afternoon jaunt stumbled across Carbon de Palo, a brand-new restaurant on 5 de Mayo. Billed by our waiter as Continental fusion, with a Colombian chef, it was a lovely surprise. Our lunch starters were excellent – a grouper ceviche with lime foam and an incredibly fresh caprese salad (above). B. chose squid ink pasta topped with a giant scallop, and pronounced it the best he’s ever had. My entrée was a beautiful – the only word that fits – avocado, skinned and presented whole, stuffed with crab. I had a glass of Penedes and B. had a Victoria. We vowed to come back for dinner as soon as possible.
One night we had dinner at our hotel – not surprisingly, it was a beautiful meal with exquisite service provided by Daniel. To start, ceviche tacos and a beet salad, sea bass with green mole and shrimps in mole as entrees. We all but inhaled the dessert – a delicate camote y piña flauta.
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We returned to Casa Oaxaca Restaurant for our last supper, and admittedly overdid it. We started with a cheese platter – a wide assortment of local cheeses, all delicious and rich. B. had the pulpo – and was awarded an extra-large serving of rice loaded with huitlacoche after letting our server Omar know how much he craves this tasty corn fungus. For me, Omar recommended the grouper served with chicatana salsa –a delicacy, and a very distinctive taste.
I can’t forget to mention the incredible breakfasts at Casa Oaxaca Hotel. Included in the cost of the room, and served in the sunny courtyard, each meal was outstanding. Freshly squeezed juices of our choice (usually apple for B., papaya and orange for me), a variety of eggs, a fresh fruit plate with granola and yogurt, enchiladas, quesadillas, chilaquiles, freshly baked breads, homemade jam, as well as cappuccino and espresso, and hot chocolate made to order.
We’re already thinking about restaurants for the next trip – we’ll definitely return to Carbon de Palo and Casa Oaxaca. We made reservations at Pitiona but never got there – that has to go on the list. Also missed Los Danzantes. Oaxaca is calling, and we’ll be back.
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Norma’s Note: There are wonderful restaurants and outdoor cafes all over Oaxaca with varying price ranges, from comida corrida (food of the common person) to gourmet extravaganza. Eva’s review here give us her “top shelf” dining experience!
If you would like to contribute a blog post about your Oaxaca experiences, please contact Norma.
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Too Much Fun and Where to Eat in the Boqueria Market, Barcelona, Spain
The Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria in Barcelona, Spain, is a food and wine lover’s paradise. It is one of the best tourist attractions in the city. Here, your eyes can be bigger than your stomach. So, watch out! Most dishes are huge enough to share by two people.
Remember you can always order more. Unless you take a grazing route through the market nibbling on cheese, red wine, raw oysters, crusty bread, Spanish ham, olives and the most divine desserts I’ve ever seen.
On our first full day in Barcelona, we roamed the market in search of El Quim tapas bar (recommended by friends) and never found it until after lunch.
The allure of plates of fresh cooked shellfish was too compelling to dismiss. We scouted the restaurants to determine which one was the most packed with locals and settled on El Cochinillo Loco (The Crazy Pig), which we walked by thrice before deciding.
The fresh shrimp, langostinos, clams, oysters, mussels, octopus, squid, sea bass and other unidentifiable frutos del mar were piled high and our eyes got bigger just looking. So, we waited for two seats to open up and sat between two local couples immersed in platter sharing. It was 2:00 p.m.
By 4:00 p.m. we had finished our sangrias, had too many leftovers, and become best friends with our lunch neighbors. We were happy to divide the remains with them since we couldn’t carry out to our hotel!
Then, one couple ordered a bottle of Spanish cava (sparkling wine) while the other bought a basket of fresh organic strawberries. The strawberries landed in the sparkling wine. Of course! I have many more photos of all of us hugging, laughing and giggling, too many to publish here.
I can’t imagine a better way to get a cultural immersion and practice Spanish than to share lunch and a bottle of wine with Ines Natera, who works at the Universidad Politecnica Catalunya and her husband.
Then, my sister reminded me we had a dinner reservation three hours later at the Michelin 1-star restaurant Alkimia. How were we ever going to get our appetite back? Since dinner doesn’t really start until 9:00 p.m. we were hopeful.
So we said goodbye to our friends and set out for a market walkabout. By now, our eyes could not deceive us and it was easy to pass by the chocolate covered berries, the nougat, the dark chocolate coated orange rinds, and the custard tarts… (well, not really)
the freshest fruit, bottles of sweet red vermouth, mounds of crustaceans, farm vegetables, sardines, anchovies, and every imaginable food gift perfect for a special friend (or yourself).
To walk it off, we took a circuitous route back to our hotel through the medieval old quarter of Barcelona bordering La Rambla, and then into the narrow streets where locals were celebrating Sant Jordi Day with gifts of flower bouquets for sweethearts and books for beaus.
We didn’t take home the emu eggs or crustaceans or pintxos or tapas. We did bring home Catalunya olives, vermouth, Iberian ham, super ripe stinky goat cheese, and lots of chocolate.
And, what did we do on our last day in Barcelona. Stock up with a final visit to the Boqueria market, of course, followed by a run through the basement food section of El Cortes de Ingles at Placa Catalunya. Can you tell? I’m in love with Spain (second to Mexico, of course).
Boqueria Market Eateries
Footnote: Since returning to Oaxaca earlier this week, I haven’t done much except sleep, eat, visit with a few friends and venture out for a few afternoons in search of wifi service. I have none at the casita, so my communication is limited. I’m sitting in the wonderful fresh breeze at Tierra Antigua Restaurante in Teotitlan del Valle, with a delicious lunch and internet. Hallelujah. In celebration of small wonders.
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Posted in Cultural Commentary, Photography, Travel & Tourism
Tagged Barcelona, Boqueria market, eat, food, gifts, gourmet, restaurants, Spain